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Merciless

2015-10-13T21:00:32Z

Fifth: Created page with "{{NPCDesign|Buccaneer|3.2L V8|115|tyres=?| weapon_1=Anti Tank Gun| weapon_1_location=Front| }} ==Overview== Category: NPC Vehicles"

{{NPCDesign|Buccaneer|3.2L V8|115|tyres=?|
weapon_1=Anti Tank Gun|
weapon_1_location=Front|

}}

==Overview==

[[Category: NPC Vehicles]]

Buccaneer

2015-10-13T20:59:20Z

Fifth: /* Wilderness Designs */

{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
|colspan = "2" align = "center"| [[File:Buccaneer.jpg]]
|-
! Rarity
|align = "right"| Rare
|-
! Cost
|align = "right"| Somewhat Expensive
|-
! Toughness
|align = "right"| Strong
|-
! Weight
|align = "right"| 1450
|-
! Total Capacity
|align = "right"| 170
|-
! Engine Capacity
|align = "right"| 95 (5L)
|-
! Exposed Engine Capacity
|align = "right"| 114 (5L V12)
|-
! Max Armor
|align = "right"| 80
|-
! Max Armor Per Side
|align = "right"| 20
|-
! Seats
|align = "right"| 4
|-
! Weapon Mounts
|align = "right"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|-
! Based On
|align = "right"| [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oldsmobile_Cutlass#Third_Generation Oldsmobile Cutlass] (3rd Generation)
|}

==Overview==

This muscle car is a '''GREAT''' race car! Its suspension is very forgiving of even the roughest and bumpiest of tracks.
It's slightly heavy as far as muscle cars go, but the handling and speed provided make even the novice driver look good on the track.

While the "Bucky" may be a rare find, once you have one and race it, you won't let it go!

As far as combat goes, you can put some weapons to good use with this chassis. It is, however, a bit on the fragile side in chassis toughness. Use the horsepower to your advantage and out-maneuver your enemies while getting in some weapon hits and you 'should' see success with the "Bucky".

==Wilderness Designs==
* [[Cutlass]]
* [[Wardance]]
* [[Merciless]]

[[Category: Chassis]]

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2015-04-25T23:28:08Z

Fifth: /* Sample Builds */

The muscle car is one of the true joys of Darkwind. Neither well armored nor well armed, its primary asset in the wilderness is its speed and maneuverability. Wilderness battles have been won against enormous odds because of one or two well-employed muscle cars.

Muscles are also indispensable for hunting Traders, because only muscle cars can chase down and corral fleeing cargo vehicles.

But muscle cars are terribly vulnerable when exchanging fire with the enemy, due to their light armor and weapon loads, and their high speed can be as much a vulnerability as an asset. The difference between a victorious muscle and a very fast coffin is forethought and planning.

This manual is broken into several sections. First I’ll go over what a muscle car is, and setting up your muscle, and I’ll go over different weapons. Then will be describing basic strategies and tactics, and I’ll close with the Chassis Appendix, going over the chassis one by one.

== Section 1: Setting Up ==

=== What Is (And Isn’t) A Muscle? ===

A muscle is a midsize car that can mount a big engine unexposed. The [[Windsor]] and [[Windsor II]] are not muscles. No car with an exposed engine should be considered a muscle, as they are too vulnerable to survive in a combat zone. Here’s a (partial) list of muscle chassis:

*[[Phoenix]]
*[[Sunrise]]
*[[Voyager]]
*[[Vampire]]
*[[Pike]]
*[[Bullet]]
*[[Buccaneer]]
*[[Roadrunner]]
*[[Moray]]
*[[Flail]]
*[[Osprey]]
*[[Stormer]]
*[[Flash]]
*[[Corghette]]

All of these, other than the Flash and the Voyager, can mount a 4L or larger engine unexposed. The Flash is included because of its sheer speed and ability to accept an engine disproportionately large for its size, and the Voyager is included because of its sheer speed & ability to accept a 3.2l V8, which allows it to keep up with almost anything in the wilderness. I’ll go into each of these chassis in detail in the Chassis Appendix.

=== Components ===

'''Engine'''
In general, you want at least a 4L engine or a 3.2LV8. A full-sized muscle with a 3.2L engine isn’t a muscle at all, it’s a coffin. Some engines can handle a 5L, but keep an eye on the bulk used for weapons and ammo.

'''Armor'''
Max out your front, put 5 on your top and bottom, and distribute the rest evenly between your sides and rear. Class B - NEVER C. A-class armor is tempting and gives a nice speed boost, but is awfully expensive to keep repaired.

'''Fuel'''
A 2-unit tank is sufficient for most muscle operations. An extra unit or two on top of that can enable your muscle scouts to go further out and improve your odds.

'''Tyres'''
Offroad all the way. Handling is everything to a muscle. The exception to this is if you’re working in rough terrain, then you need Reinforced.

'''Crew'''
Driver and gunner. Putting in 2 gunners takes up too much valuable space. Your driver should have at least 20 skill, but 40 is really preferred. With more driving skill, you’ll accelerate faster and you’ll be more stable. Your gunner should have at least some Gunnery skill, but muscles are a good way to train gunners. Defensive Driver is a great specialism for muscle drivers, as is Deathracer.

'''Suspension'''
Suspension settings are different for every chassis and weapon load, but one thing is true across the board: increasing tyre pressure will give you increased acceleration at lower speeds, under about 40MPH, but you will lose some control at the top end. Increased tyre pressure is highly recommended for vehicles that spend time in lower-speed dogfights. Past that, experiment with your cars to find a suspension setting that fits your style.

'''Weapons'''
Front, front, front. You want your weapons on the FRONT. Side mounts are possible, but not generally recommended. Rear mounts sound good on paper, but they’re actually very difficult to use in practice.

Here’s your menu of killware:

[[Machine Gun]] - The vanilla option. Don’t knock it, a pair of these on the front of a muscle can really chew through enemy armor over the long run, and they have decent range and accuracy. The downside is, you need a pair to make a decent punch, and your driver will have to man one of them. Your accuracy with that gun will be lower.

[[Light Machine Gun]] - at 15 bulk, the Light Machine Gun seems very attractive to muscle cars short on space. However, the LMG has only 10 rounds of ammunition. Because most NPC cars have more than 10 points of armor on a single facing, it's almost guaranteed that you'll run out of ammunition before you run out of enemy. You can fit an LMG and 3 reloads (40 rounds total) in the same 24 bulk as a MG and the same number of rounds, but firing them all would require 3 reload periods, compared to 1 for the MG. The Light Machine Gun isn't a bad weapon, all things considered, but only as a secondary weapon alongside heavier and longer-lasting firepower.

[[Gatling Gun]] - The [[Machine Gun]] on steroids. The downside is, its range is shorter and you NEED two of them to make a decent punch, so your driver better have decent Gunnery skills. Watch out for the increased recoil - sustained fire can really slow you down.

[[Micromissile Launcher]] - Like the Machine Gun and Gatling Gun, the MML is small enough to be fitted in pairs, or mixed with a MG or GG. However, I don’t recommend doing so. Having an explosive round is useful in some cases, but the MML doesn't have enough punch to outweigh the low ammunition capacity. Some chassis can accept a MML alongside a [[Medium Machine Gun]] as a driver-controlled secondary weapon, and this is an enormously effective build at short range.

[[Medium Machine Gun]] - My favorite muscle weapon. Decent damage, manageable recoil, good ammo supply, and low bulk. You will NOT have enough room for 2 of them, except on the larger cars, but that’s not a bad thing, you’ll be able to fit several reloads or a One-Shot secondary. Putting in just one gun lets your gunner concentrate on killing properly.

[[Heavy Machine Gun]] - One of the heaviest weapons available to muscles, the HMG should be deployed with care. Its recoil is hard enough to seriously affect your handling, and its 40 bulk will generally limit you to a single reload. On the other hand, its sheer power and ammo capacity can sometimes outweigh its bulk. Best deployed on the [[Phoenix]].

[[Rocket Launcher]] - The Rocket Launcher is a sledgehammer of muscle weapons. Peeling 3 or 4 off an enemy with a single hit is very tempting, to say the least. But the 10-round clip means you’ll be reloading mid-fight, and you generally will only have room for a single reload. Having only 20 rounds of fire means you have to hit Every. Single. Time. Also, the large blast radius can make a lot of problems for you in a tight, up-close fight. If you have a Rapid Reload gunner and lots of ammo space, go for it.

[[Heavy Gatling Gun]] - Rare and powerful, the HGG is better mounted on an SUV than a muscle. Its fierce recoil will throw you all over the place.

[[Car Rifle]] - The Sniper’s Best Friend, the Car Rifle is feared for good reason. But in the high-speed muscle fights, you will NOT have enough time to line up a proper shot, and the 15-round magazine means you’ll have less sustained fire. Use a Medium Machine Gun unless you have some very skilled Snipers.

[[Flamethrower]] - The Flamethrower is another weapon that looks better on paper than it does in combat. As long as you’re running like you’re on fire, why not set everyone else on fire too? But unless you like being quite literally on fire, avoid the Flamethrower. Its damage is not high enough to justify its short range and small clip size. Also, ANY damage to the FT will set you on fire. Avoid unless you are making a suicide/novelty car.

[[Napalm Gun]] - The Napalm Gun is perhaps the only ballistic weapon that can be remotely useful on a muscle car. It takes some planning, especially given that the NG's bulk means that it may be the only weapon on a car, but being able to throw flaming oil into the path of the enemy can be invaluable, especially if you're Kiting.

One-Shots - I’m using this as a catchall for the [[Mini|Mini Rocket]], [[Light|Light Rocket]], [[Medium|Medium Rocket]], and [[Heavy|Heavy Rocket]] Rockets and their respective Racks and Pods. A One-Shot mounted next to your primary weapon can give a low-armor opponent a serious case of the breaches. Given that you’ll need to use your driver to man it and you only have a single shot with them, you need to time your shots carefully to hit an enemy’s weak side from close range. But a well-placed rocket can shorten a duel by several turns. My personal favorite is a toss-up between a [[Light Rocket Rack]] (3 shots, triple the fun!) and a single [[Heavy Rocket]]. (Make a Big Bang!)
As appealing as One-Shots are, NEVER compromise your primary firepower to fit in a bigger One-Shot. Your main weapon is your cake, your One-Shot is your icing.

=== Sample Builds ===

{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
! Name !! Chassis !! Engine !! CR !! Weapons !! Occupants !! Notes
|-
| [[Scimitar]]
| [[Phoenix]] or [[Sunrise]]
| 4L
| 124
| Fr [[GG]]x2
| 2
| An impressive but fragile dogfighter. Stay away from your enemies' weapons, and get the Gatling Guns onto their flanks and rear. The guns work best at close range, especially with low-skill gangers.
|-
| [[Chaser]]
| [[Phoenix]] or [[Sunrise]]
| 4L
| 104
| FR [[MMG]]
| 2 or 3
| This NPC Build has less firepower than the Scimitar, but offers much better ammo capacity and less recoil. The MMG will have a slightly better range than double [[Gatling]]s, and much better control. Add a driver-controlled One-Shot for extra firepower.
|-
| [[Hawk]]
| [[Vampire]]
| 3.2L V8
| 104
| FR [[MMG]] [[MRR]]
| 2
| Expensive but worth every penny. One of the most successful light dogfighters around, because it'll outrun whatever it can't outfight. Deploy in a pair for an instant hunting unit.
|-
| [[Eliminator]]
| [[Voyager]]
| 3.2L (V8 optional)
| 111
| FR 2X [[MG]] RE [[MG]]
| 2-3
| This NPC/Rental model serves as a great base for an interceptor and dogfighter. Low on firepower and fragile, but the Machine Guns give it better range and accuracy than the Scimitar.
|-
| [[Tarantula]]
| [[Voyager]]
| 3.2L
| 116
| FR [[RL]] [[GG]]
| 2
| This build can bring much needed firepower to a muscle squad. It tends to lag behind other muscles and reloads mid-fight, but it can turn the tide of battle when properly employed.
|-
| [[Panther]]
| [[Bullet]]
| 4L
| 102
| FR [[MMG]] [[MRP]]
| 2
| An excellent trader-hunter with style and flair. Save the rockets for enemy breaches, and it'll do serious damage.
|-
| [[Kestrel]]
| [[Phoenix]] or [[Sunrise]]
| 3.2L V8
| 112
| FR [[MMG]] [[MML]]
| 2
| Pricey, but extremely effective at short to medium range. The MML adds little recoil to the chassis, giving consistent handling when guns are firing. Leaves a reload each, so be careful when you decide to shoot, this build is only recommended up north.
|-
|}

== Section 2: Let’s Talk Tactics ==

=== Strategy and Combat Roles ===

Muscle tactics fall into four general areas: '''Kiting, Strafing, Dueling''' and '''Chasing'''. Which one of these you perform depends a great deal on the situation of the rest of your scout, so LISTEN to your squadmates. Clear communication can make the difference between a successful scout and a disaster.

*'''Kiting''' - Kiting is distracting the AI opponents. Run fast around them, OUTSIDE of their Line of Fire, and see who peels off to chase you. You don’t need to get the whole group’s attention, and every enemy that’s chasing you is one less that’s firing on your buddies. If none of them chase you, you can start '''Strafing''' their stragglers. If you only pull one enemy, you have a good chance to '''Duel''' it into submission, but if you have more than one, keep running until the rest of your squad is done with their portion and ready to peel them off of you. Kiting can also put you into position to '''Strafe''' stragglers or '''Clip''' artillery wagons.

*'''Strafing''' - Strafing is, in essence, attacking a group of enemies at high speed. Get your speed up - between 60 and 80 is ideal - and pick your closest target. Take several turns to plan out your approach, and check your target’s weapon arcs carefully. A rear strike is ideal on a [[Mutant Marauder]], but not a good idea against a [[Poltergeist]]. NEVER aim straight in at your target, aim slightly to one side. Keep your speed up as you make your attack run, fire a few times, then move on to the next target. You don’t need to kill your target, just sting it. Then you can move onto the next target or break off and set up for another run.

Related to strafing is '''Clipping'''. AI cars with Grenade Launchers and Mortars can be deadly because they tend to hide behind their consorts while showering a squad with high-explosive rain. But a muscle car or two can sometimes loop behind the consorts and knock out or distract an artillery vehicle. Even if the artillery is only distracted, you've bought your teammates a moment of respite from the falling shells.

Clipping an artillery car is risky, but can be done with enough speed. Drop your speed to 40 as you start firing, concentrate your fire on one armor facing, and get your teeth in. If the target or another car seems to be turning for you, accelerate out of danger, rinse, and repeat until your target is dead.

*'''Dueling''' - This is the opposite of Strafing. You’re getting in, going in for the kill, doing it for the thrill. As the name suggests, you’re going for a single opponent, and you’re not giving up until they’re dead in the desert.

First, know your opponent. Know exactly what weapons it has, know his firing arcs, and figure out how to get your teeth into him without getting bitten. In almost every duel, you WILL be outgunned, use your maneuverability to stay out of his fire zones. Taking some fire is all right, but spread it out among your sides, but focus your fire on one or two of his facets. Watch your ammunition level, and leave your opponent lamed and burning.

*'''Chasing''' - During trader hunts, this is where the muscle shows its true strengths. While your heavier allies are hammering the cargo escorts into scrap, your job is simple: keep the cargo from getting away.

Communicate with other chasers, make sure all of the runners are covered and none get to 350 meters.

Runners are fairly dumb AIs, they run away from the closest player. You can use this to your advantage if you can get one muscle in front of the pack, they’ll turn back toward your heavies or scatter into rough terrain. Most runners have heavy rear guns, so don’t get too close. With enough carnage among the escorts, traders will demoralize, but to maximize salvage, it’s a good idea to start shooting at traders when the escort is mostly demoralized. This increases the runners’ stress level and brings them closer to demoralizing. You DON’T want to actually breach them unless you’re in serious danger, but stressing them can shorten the scout by several turns.

Of all the cargo vehicles, [[Trade Runner]]s are the sole exception - you want to kill them, or at least silence their guns. They very rarely carry good cargo, and their heavy artillery can be lethal to chasers. The best tactic for bringing a Trade Runner down is to use two cars to go at its flanks and front and kill its engine. If you can't spare a second car, use terrain to shield yourself from its guns until you can get beside it. Get your teeth into its flank, and don't let go.

'''All-Muscle Squads'''

For an all-muscle squad, forming a line like a conventional scout squad is a recipe for suicide. I've found that the best strategy revolves around breaking your force into units of 2 or 3 cars each, and each attack group picks a target to duel. Running for a time is a good way to break an opposing force up, and then the attack groups can turn on individual enemies. Go in fast and hard, and kill the enemy as fast as possible.

=== Turn By Turn ===

Once the bullets start flying, fighting with a muscle becomes brutally simple: stay out of your enemy’s fire zones and keep your guns on your opponent. Have a working knowledge of the basic Somerset [[NPC Vehicles|NPC designs]] and what gun is on which facing. While avoiding fire is always a must, especially avoid rocket launchers, HMGs, and MMLs - the kinetic impact can badly affect your handling. Pick a target facing and pour your fire into it.

Knowing your car is especially important for muscle drivers. For your first couple outings with a chassis you’re not familiar with, take it out with a group on relatively low-risk scouts until you’re used to the handling. Alternately, load it into DW: Tactical and take it through some paces, get used to how it handles on sand and rock and asphalt.

'''The Slope Turn'''

Use terrain wisely. If you need to turn around quickly, you can climb up a slope and use it to shave a turn or two off your turning time. When your front wheels are on the slope, turn your steering wheel all the way and keep it there until your front is below your back, and then start countersteering out. Be careful, as this can sometimes expose your top armor, but it's a useful trick.

'''Tactical Kiting'''

This is fancy verbiage for using your buddies as bait. Keep an eye on all your buddies - enemies who are going for your wingman can be vulnerable themselves to a sustained side or rear attack. And if an enemy is on your tail, you may be able to lure it into your allies' loving embrace, if you don't mind losing some armor in the doing.

'''A Note On The Handbrake'''

Used properly and sparingly, the handbrake can be the best medicine for a tight situation. But like all remedies, it's best used in moderation.

When you're moving at high speed in a tight turn, the handbrake can sometimes enable you to turn 180 or 270 degrees in a single turn, at the cost of a fair chunk of your speed. This can be very useful at the end of an attack run, but losing that much of your speed can be lethal. Use with caution.

== Chassis Appendix ==

[[Phoenix]] - The venerable Phoenix is probably your first muscle car, as it’s the most common in [[Somerset]], and even as you move onto better muscles, Phoenixes remain the best option for training drivers, because replacements can always be found. I’ve found them generally forgiving of newbie driving mistakes. Like all muscles, they have a tendency to drift and tend to lose armor to terrain.

[[Sunrise]] - The [[Phoenix]]’s twin. The [[Sunrise]] and [[Phoenix]] are identical in the garage, with identical armor, engine, and bulk characteristics. But out in the wild, the Sunrise is quite different from its sibling. The Sunrise tends to handle differently, softer and with a pronounced drift. After turning at high speed, it’s not uncommon to drift on your original course for several turns. The Sunrise demands planning four or five turns ahead. For all its faults, the [[Sunrise]] is marginally faster than the Phoenix and tends to lose less armor to terrain.

[[Voyager]] - The Voyager's a controversial muscle, sitting where it does right on the border between the the muscles and sedans, but with a 3.2L engine and light weapons, it's a joy to drive. A bit slippery offroad, it boasts a very tight turning radius and the largest killware space of any of the common muscles, but beware its lighter armor. One good setup uses twin [[Machine Gun]]s or [[Gatling Gun]]s to make a versatile interceptor with room for lots of spare ammo or a second gunner to carry home the loot. Drop the tire pressure and increase the length and stiffness a few points, and use it for hit and run attacks. For extra firepower, try a [[Rocket Launcher]]/[[Gatling Gun]] or a [[Micromissile Launcher]]/[[Medium Machine Gun]].

[[Vampire]] - It’s easy to see the rental [[Desert Striker]] as representative of the Vampire, even to take it for a spin, but the rental’s Standard Tyres cripple the Striker’s beautiful possibilities, and lead many to underestimate this beautiful interceptor. The Vampire drives like a [[Phoenix]] on steroids, but the increased responsiveness comes at the cost of 10 bulk. The [[Desert Striker]] build is almost overgunned, because with the [[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]], you don’t have room for a single reload with a gunner. Switching the HMG for an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], you make one of the best combat cars in Evan, because then you can fit in a gunner, a reload and a [[Light Rocket]]. This build is one I’ve used to solo-kill [[Poltergeist|Poltergeists]] and [[Mutant Bomber|Mutant Bombers]], and once scored three kills in a single scout. The Vampire truly shines with a 3.2 v8 under the hood, which lets you fit in a [[Medium Rocket Rack]].
On the other hand, the Vampire seems to be a bit more fragile than the [[Phoenix]], so use it with care.

[[Bullet]] - It’s easy to dismiss the Bullet as a Redneck Racer, since it is a Ford Fusion, the NASCAR car. But I’ve found the Bullet to be a surprisingly flexible hunter on the battlefield. It’s a fair sight faster than either the [[Phoenix]] or the [[Sunrise]], and very maneuverable. With a good driver, I feel like my Bullet is reading my mind, like it’ll do precisely what I ask it to, with a minimum of drifting. Low bulk is certainly an issue, but with a [[Medium Machine Gun]] and a [[Mini Rocket Pod]] or a [[Light Rocket]], the Bullet is a nasty little predator. Like the [[Vampire]], the Bullet truly shines with a V8 under the hood, which frees up space for more ammo or weaponry.

[[Buccaneer]] - The Bucky is one of the larger muscle cars, but it also has a slightly lower armor value. On the other hand, being able to fit a 5L engine, a MMG, and a gunner in makes it SPEEDY. Or you can fit in a 4L and free up 20 bulk for reloads, One-Shots, or even a secondary Gatling for your driver. I’ve seen a few people mount an [[Anti-Tank Gun]] in a Buccaneer, but that takes it out of the Muscle category and places it into a Sedan class, tactically, because there is NO WAY you can maintain speed and control while firing an ATG.

[[Flash]] - The Mini Muscle. With a 2L engine, it’s almost as fast as a 4L Phoenix, and it is so light and fast that it’s a joy to drive. The downside is, you have paper armor, not much of it, and you will have 40 bulk with a gunner. That’s enough for a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], a reload, and a Light Rocket. I wouldn’t recommend mounting anything heavier than a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] on this chassis, it’s very susceptible to recoil, and extremely fragile.

[[Pike]] - The [[Pike]] is the [[Sunrise]]’s bigger, nastier brother. If you think a Sunrise is too bouncy, walk straight past this baby. Fire 1 shot from a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] and watch this thing bounce for 4 turns. Sitting still and getting shot will leave you bouncing wildly and struggling for traction and any ability of escape. Even under MML or MG fire you may find yourself stuck for 4-5 seconds hoping it doesn't roll. All that said, it drives over the rough stuff real well (with care) and is fast. Takes some time to get used to the handling (ghost)and tends to understeer heaps into a corner (especially if you fill its huge engine bay with motor) and oversteer once it does start to turn. Once you do get used to this though and drive accordingly, she's a dream to drive and the low-speed maneuverability is amazing. Reasonable armour. - Bastiel

[[Flail]] - The [[Flail]] has almost sedan-like bulk available and heavy armor. Well, it's more like driving a mini SUV than a musclecar depending on how you arm it, but for a musclecar, boy does it have a lot of armor and almost as much capacity as the [[Osprey]] - FireFly

I've found the Flail a very versatile car if used properly. It's easy to look at all that bulk and armor and think of it as a 'win button.' It isn't. Make a wrong move in the Flail, and you'll be lucky to live to regret it. With a 4L under the hood, its acceleration is substandard, and it really needs a 5L or better for optimal performance. Its maneuvering isn't bad, but like a lot of sedans, its best maneuvering happens under 30 MPH. Use it like a Phoenix or Sunrise, and your Flail will die. Use it as a heavy support car to back up your lighter muscles, and it will serve you very well.

Fully armoured up with B armour, the [[Flail]] weighs over half a tonne more than the smaller muscles, which on the upside allows you to mount some heavier weaponry, however whatever engine you mount, it's pretty slow at accelerating. Though, it doesn't stop accelerating, even when you're hitting 200mph+. With a 5LV8 under the hood (which you really need), you'll have room for a MMG/GG layout or something similiar with two reloads for the MMG, & one for the GG, which works very well if your driver has some gunnery skills. Handling wise, it's a big heavy muscle car so you can't expect much, though it doesn't do that badly. It does tend to get locked in a slide if you're running at speed trying to focus fire on a slow moving target, though the armour strength & points allows you to be a little "braver" than you would in any other muscle. Final note is that in close quarter combat, flooring the gas, leaving the handbrake on & fully turning the wheel lets' you turn 90 degrees plus in a single turn, which makes the [[Flail]] a very formidable chassis, though you really need a 5L or better otherwise it's far too slow. - Tez

The [[Flail]] also has a wide turning radius that should be accounted for. With a 3.2Lv8 and a HCR or Laser it makes a good sniper. - Tango

[[Osprey]] - It has decent handling, not the best, but there are worse. The main issue is that if you get locked into a slide, it can take some turns to get back to moving straight. The main strength lies in its huge capacity, with a crew of 2 and a 3.2lv8, you still have room for 110 bulk worth of weapons, for example, a [[Heavy Car Rifle|HCR]]/[[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]] combo works surprisingly well, but the real fun with that is that it's the most heavily armed musclecar around, and kicks the living snot out of other muscles, if you can handle the weight... - FireFly

[[Roadrunner]] - It handles like a heavy Phoenix. It has the chassis strength of a [[Chomper]]. With the addition of a HUGE motor capacity, this car might fly if not for the downforce supplied by the extraordinarily large rear wing.

It is VERY rare to find one of these beautiful cars. You might not want to risk it ANYWHERE once you do find it.
If you do find one, you`ll be pleasantly surprised at it`s armor capacity and bulk available. - JD Basher

[[Moray]] - No middle ground really, people seem to either love them or hate them. Morays are a bit pricey for something with less armour than a [[Phoenix|Pho,]] but they will take a 5LV8 unexposed, making them a speedy travel car.
They do VERY well with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Like the [[Sunrise]], they can be a bit drifty at high speeds, do not expect radical changes in direction, and this chassis can be quite unforgiving if you oversteer, though they rarely turtle.
There is, however, definitely a learning curve to overcome when using this chassis.
Expect to spin out and lose all of your momentum if you expect too much.

At slower speeds, such as when the dogfight has gone to hell, you can get a 90 degree turn out of this car, easily, assuming you have no major recoil happening from weapons fire, and a good bit more if you like using the handbrake. You can stay inside the turning arc of most NPC vehicles with ease, chewing away at them the whole time. As with all muscle cars, recoil can be an issue with heavier weapons.
Personally, after a good bit of trial and error, I have found that an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Machine Gun|MG]] combo works very well. An [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Micromissile Launcher|MMLs]] combo is effective as well, but one must keep in mind the ammo limitations [[Micromissile Launcher|MML]] have.
As with any muscle car, DON'T STOP unless it's going to give you a BIG tactical advantage.
The [[Moray]] can be a bit more forgiving in slow-speed situations than other muscle cars due to its tight turning radius, but it's best not to get INTO that situation if you don't have to. -Rev. V

[[Corghette]] - A dead sexy little racer - the Corghette is closest in handling to a tighter [[Vampire]] with one major difference. On rough terrain, it's entirely possible to get the Corghette stuck nose-and-tail on terrain, with none of its tires in contact with the ground. If it doesn't get stuck, it's a very responsive and deadly car, with 5 more bulk than the [[Vampire]]. Like the [[Vampire]], the Corghette shines with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Properly handled with an eye for terrain, the Corgy will serve you very well.

[[Category: Guides]]

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2015-04-25T23:24:02Z

Fifth: /* Components */

The muscle car is one of the true joys of Darkwind. Neither well armored nor well armed, its primary asset in the wilderness is its speed and maneuverability. Wilderness battles have been won against enormous odds because of one or two well-employed muscle cars.

Muscles are also indispensable for hunting Traders, because only muscle cars can chase down and corral fleeing cargo vehicles.

But muscle cars are terribly vulnerable when exchanging fire with the enemy, due to their light armor and weapon loads, and their high speed can be as much a vulnerability as an asset. The difference between a victorious muscle and a very fast coffin is forethought and planning.

This manual is broken into several sections. First I’ll go over what a muscle car is, and setting up your muscle, and I’ll go over different weapons. Then will be describing basic strategies and tactics, and I’ll close with the Chassis Appendix, going over the chassis one by one.

== Section 1: Setting Up ==

=== What Is (And Isn’t) A Muscle? ===

A muscle is a midsize car that can mount a big engine unexposed. The [[Windsor]] and [[Windsor II]] are not muscles. No car with an exposed engine should be considered a muscle, as they are too vulnerable to survive in a combat zone. Here’s a (partial) list of muscle chassis:

*[[Phoenix]]
*[[Sunrise]]
*[[Voyager]]
*[[Vampire]]
*[[Pike]]
*[[Bullet]]
*[[Buccaneer]]
*[[Roadrunner]]
*[[Moray]]
*[[Flail]]
*[[Osprey]]
*[[Stormer]]
*[[Flash]]
*[[Corghette]]

All of these, other than the Flash and the Voyager, can mount a 4L or larger engine unexposed. The Flash is included because of its sheer speed and ability to accept an engine disproportionately large for its size, and the Voyager is included because of its sheer speed & ability to accept a 3.2l V8, which allows it to keep up with almost anything in the wilderness. I’ll go into each of these chassis in detail in the Chassis Appendix.

=== Components ===

'''Engine'''
In general, you want at least a 4L engine or a 3.2LV8. A full-sized muscle with a 3.2L engine isn’t a muscle at all, it’s a coffin. Some engines can handle a 5L, but keep an eye on the bulk used for weapons and ammo.

'''Armor'''
Max out your front, put 5 on your top and bottom, and distribute the rest evenly between your sides and rear. Class B - NEVER C. A-class armor is tempting and gives a nice speed boost, but is awfully expensive to keep repaired.

'''Fuel'''
A 2-unit tank is sufficient for most muscle operations. An extra unit or two on top of that can enable your muscle scouts to go further out and improve your odds.

'''Tyres'''
Offroad all the way. Handling is everything to a muscle. The exception to this is if you’re working in rough terrain, then you need Reinforced.

'''Crew'''
Driver and gunner. Putting in 2 gunners takes up too much valuable space. Your driver should have at least 20 skill, but 40 is really preferred. With more driving skill, you’ll accelerate faster and you’ll be more stable. Your gunner should have at least some Gunnery skill, but muscles are a good way to train gunners. Defensive Driver is a great specialism for muscle drivers, as is Deathracer.

'''Suspension'''
Suspension settings are different for every chassis and weapon load, but one thing is true across the board: increasing tyre pressure will give you increased acceleration at lower speeds, under about 40MPH, but you will lose some control at the top end. Increased tyre pressure is highly recommended for vehicles that spend time in lower-speed dogfights. Past that, experiment with your cars to find a suspension setting that fits your style.

'''Weapons'''
Front, front, front. You want your weapons on the FRONT. Side mounts are possible, but not generally recommended. Rear mounts sound good on paper, but they’re actually very difficult to use in practice.

Here’s your menu of killware:

[[Machine Gun]] - The vanilla option. Don’t knock it, a pair of these on the front of a muscle can really chew through enemy armor over the long run, and they have decent range and accuracy. The downside is, you need a pair to make a decent punch, and your driver will have to man one of them. Your accuracy with that gun will be lower.

[[Light Machine Gun]] - at 15 bulk, the Light Machine Gun seems very attractive to muscle cars short on space. However, the LMG has only 10 rounds of ammunition. Because most NPC cars have more than 10 points of armor on a single facing, it's almost guaranteed that you'll run out of ammunition before you run out of enemy. You can fit an LMG and 3 reloads (40 rounds total) in the same 24 bulk as a MG and the same number of rounds, but firing them all would require 3 reload periods, compared to 1 for the MG. The Light Machine Gun isn't a bad weapon, all things considered, but only as a secondary weapon alongside heavier and longer-lasting firepower.

[[Gatling Gun]] - The [[Machine Gun]] on steroids. The downside is, its range is shorter and you NEED two of them to make a decent punch, so your driver better have decent Gunnery skills. Watch out for the increased recoil - sustained fire can really slow you down.

[[Micromissile Launcher]] - Like the Machine Gun and Gatling Gun, the MML is small enough to be fitted in pairs, or mixed with a MG or GG. However, I don’t recommend doing so. Having an explosive round is useful in some cases, but the MML doesn't have enough punch to outweigh the low ammunition capacity. Some chassis can accept a MML alongside a [[Medium Machine Gun]] as a driver-controlled secondary weapon, and this is an enormously effective build at short range.

[[Medium Machine Gun]] - My favorite muscle weapon. Decent damage, manageable recoil, good ammo supply, and low bulk. You will NOT have enough room for 2 of them, except on the larger cars, but that’s not a bad thing, you’ll be able to fit several reloads or a One-Shot secondary. Putting in just one gun lets your gunner concentrate on killing properly.

[[Heavy Machine Gun]] - One of the heaviest weapons available to muscles, the HMG should be deployed with care. Its recoil is hard enough to seriously affect your handling, and its 40 bulk will generally limit you to a single reload. On the other hand, its sheer power and ammo capacity can sometimes outweigh its bulk. Best deployed on the [[Phoenix]].

[[Rocket Launcher]] - The Rocket Launcher is a sledgehammer of muscle weapons. Peeling 3 or 4 off an enemy with a single hit is very tempting, to say the least. But the 10-round clip means you’ll be reloading mid-fight, and you generally will only have room for a single reload. Having only 20 rounds of fire means you have to hit Every. Single. Time. Also, the large blast radius can make a lot of problems for you in a tight, up-close fight. If you have a Rapid Reload gunner and lots of ammo space, go for it.

[[Heavy Gatling Gun]] - Rare and powerful, the HGG is better mounted on an SUV than a muscle. Its fierce recoil will throw you all over the place.

[[Car Rifle]] - The Sniper’s Best Friend, the Car Rifle is feared for good reason. But in the high-speed muscle fights, you will NOT have enough time to line up a proper shot, and the 15-round magazine means you’ll have less sustained fire. Use a Medium Machine Gun unless you have some very skilled Snipers.

[[Flamethrower]] - The Flamethrower is another weapon that looks better on paper than it does in combat. As long as you’re running like you’re on fire, why not set everyone else on fire too? But unless you like being quite literally on fire, avoid the Flamethrower. Its damage is not high enough to justify its short range and small clip size. Also, ANY damage to the FT will set you on fire. Avoid unless you are making a suicide/novelty car.

[[Napalm Gun]] - The Napalm Gun is perhaps the only ballistic weapon that can be remotely useful on a muscle car. It takes some planning, especially given that the NG's bulk means that it may be the only weapon on a car, but being able to throw flaming oil into the path of the enemy can be invaluable, especially if you're Kiting.

One-Shots - I’m using this as a catchall for the [[Mini|Mini Rocket]], [[Light|Light Rocket]], [[Medium|Medium Rocket]], and [[Heavy|Heavy Rocket]] Rockets and their respective Racks and Pods. A One-Shot mounted next to your primary weapon can give a low-armor opponent a serious case of the breaches. Given that you’ll need to use your driver to man it and you only have a single shot with them, you need to time your shots carefully to hit an enemy’s weak side from close range. But a well-placed rocket can shorten a duel by several turns. My personal favorite is a toss-up between a [[Light Rocket Rack]] (3 shots, triple the fun!) and a single [[Heavy Rocket]]. (Make a Big Bang!)
As appealing as One-Shots are, NEVER compromise your primary firepower to fit in a bigger One-Shot. Your main weapon is your cake, your One-Shot is your icing.

=== Sample Builds ===

{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
! Name !! Chassis !! Engine !! CR !! Weapons !! Occupants !! Notes
|-
| [[Scimitar]]
| [[Phoenix]] or [[Sunrise]]
| 4L
| 124
| Fr [[GG]]x2
| 2
| An impressive but fragile dogfighter. Stay away from your enemies' weapons, and get the Gatling Guns onto their flanks and rear. The guns work best at close range, especially with low-skill gangers.
|-
| [[Chaser]]
| [[Phoenix]] or [[Sunrise]]
| 4L
| 104
| FR [[MMG]]
| 2 or 3
| This NPC Build has less firepower than the Scimitar, but offers much better ammo capacity and less recoil. The MMG will have a slightly better range than double [[Gatling]]s, and much better control. Add a driver-controlled One-Shot for extra firepower.
|-
| [[Hawk]]
| [[Vampire]]
| 3.2L V8
| 104
| FR [[MMG]] [[MRR]]
| 2
| Expensive but worth every penny. One of the most successful light dogfighters around, because it'll outrun whatever it can't outfight. Deploy in a pair for an instant hunting unit.
|-
| [[Eliminator]]
| [[Voyager]]
| 3.2L (V8 optional)
| 111
| FR 2X [[MG]] RE [[MG]]
| 2-3
| This NPC/Rental model serves as a great base for an interceptor and dogfighter. Low on firepower and fragile, but the Machine Guns give it better range and accuracy than the Scimitar.
|-
| [[Panther]]
| [[Bullet]]
| 4L
| 102
| FR [[MMG]] [[MRP]]
| 2
| An excellent trader-hunter with style and flair. Save the rockets for enemy breaches, and it'll do serious damage.
|-
| [[Kestrel]]
| [[Phoenix]] or [[Sunrise]]
| 3.2L V8
| 112
| FR [[MMG]] [[MML]]
| 2
| Pricey, but extremely effective at short to medium range. The MML adds little recoil to the chassis, giving consistent handling when guns are firing. Leaves a reload each, so be careful when you decide to shoot, this build is only recommended up north.
|-
|}

== Section 2: Let’s Talk Tactics ==

=== Strategy and Combat Roles ===

Muscle tactics fall into four general areas: '''Kiting, Strafing, Dueling''' and '''Chasing'''. Which one of these you perform depends a great deal on the situation of the rest of your scout, so LISTEN to your squadmates. Clear communication can make the difference between a successful scout and a disaster.

*'''Kiting''' - Kiting is distracting the AI opponents. Run fast around them, OUTSIDE of their Line of Fire, and see who peels off to chase you. You don’t need to get the whole group’s attention, and every enemy that’s chasing you is one less that’s firing on your buddies. If none of them chase you, you can start '''Strafing''' their stragglers. If you only pull one enemy, you have a good chance to '''Duel''' it into submission, but if you have more than one, keep running until the rest of your squad is done with their portion and ready to peel them off of you. Kiting can also put you into position to '''Strafe''' stragglers or '''Clip''' artillery wagons.

*'''Strafing''' - Strafing is, in essence, attacking a group of enemies at high speed. Get your speed up - between 60 and 80 is ideal - and pick your closest target. Take several turns to plan out your approach, and check your target’s weapon arcs carefully. A rear strike is ideal on a [[Mutant Marauder]], but not a good idea against a [[Poltergeist]]. NEVER aim straight in at your target, aim slightly to one side. Keep your speed up as you make your attack run, fire a few times, then move on to the next target. You don’t need to kill your target, just sting it. Then you can move onto the next target or break off and set up for another run.

Related to strafing is '''Clipping'''. AI cars with Grenade Launchers and Mortars can be deadly because they tend to hide behind their consorts while showering a squad with high-explosive rain. But a muscle car or two can sometimes loop behind the consorts and knock out or distract an artillery vehicle. Even if the artillery is only distracted, you've bought your teammates a moment of respite from the falling shells.

Clipping an artillery car is risky, but can be done with enough speed. Drop your speed to 40 as you start firing, concentrate your fire on one armor facing, and get your teeth in. If the target or another car seems to be turning for you, accelerate out of danger, rinse, and repeat until your target is dead.

*'''Dueling''' - This is the opposite of Strafing. You’re getting in, going in for the kill, doing it for the thrill. As the name suggests, you’re going for a single opponent, and you’re not giving up until they’re dead in the desert.

First, know your opponent. Know exactly what weapons it has, know his firing arcs, and figure out how to get your teeth into him without getting bitten. In almost every duel, you WILL be outgunned, use your maneuverability to stay out of his fire zones. Taking some fire is all right, but spread it out among your sides, but focus your fire on one or two of his facets. Watch your ammunition level, and leave your opponent lamed and burning.

*'''Chasing''' - During trader hunts, this is where the muscle shows its true strengths. While your heavier allies are hammering the cargo escorts into scrap, your job is simple: keep the cargo from getting away.

Communicate with other chasers, make sure all of the runners are covered and none get to 350 meters.

Runners are fairly dumb AIs, they run away from the closest player. You can use this to your advantage if you can get one muscle in front of the pack, they’ll turn back toward your heavies or scatter into rough terrain. Most runners have heavy rear guns, so don’t get too close. With enough carnage among the escorts, traders will demoralize, but to maximize salvage, it’s a good idea to start shooting at traders when the escort is mostly demoralized. This increases the runners’ stress level and brings them closer to demoralizing. You DON’T want to actually breach them unless you’re in serious danger, but stressing them can shorten the scout by several turns.

Of all the cargo vehicles, [[Trade Runner]]s are the sole exception - you want to kill them, or at least silence their guns. They very rarely carry good cargo, and their heavy artillery can be lethal to chasers. The best tactic for bringing a Trade Runner down is to use two cars to go at its flanks and front and kill its engine. If you can't spare a second car, use terrain to shield yourself from its guns until you can get beside it. Get your teeth into its flank, and don't let go.

'''All-Muscle Squads'''

For an all-muscle squad, forming a line like a conventional scout squad is a recipe for suicide. I've found that the best strategy revolves around breaking your force into units of 2 or 3 cars each, and each attack group picks a target to duel. Running for a time is a good way to break an opposing force up, and then the attack groups can turn on individual enemies. Go in fast and hard, and kill the enemy as fast as possible.

=== Turn By Turn ===

Once the bullets start flying, fighting with a muscle becomes brutally simple: stay out of your enemy’s fire zones and keep your guns on your opponent. Have a working knowledge of the basic Somerset [[NPC Vehicles|NPC designs]] and what gun is on which facing. While avoiding fire is always a must, especially avoid rocket launchers, HMGs, and MMLs - the kinetic impact can badly affect your handling. Pick a target facing and pour your fire into it.

Knowing your car is especially important for muscle drivers. For your first couple outings with a chassis you’re not familiar with, take it out with a group on relatively low-risk scouts until you’re used to the handling. Alternately, load it into DW: Tactical and take it through some paces, get used to how it handles on sand and rock and asphalt.

'''The Slope Turn'''

Use terrain wisely. If you need to turn around quickly, you can climb up a slope and use it to shave a turn or two off your turning time. When your front wheels are on the slope, turn your steering wheel all the way and keep it there until your front is below your back, and then start countersteering out. Be careful, as this can sometimes expose your top armor, but it's a useful trick.

'''Tactical Kiting'''

This is fancy verbiage for using your buddies as bait. Keep an eye on all your buddies - enemies who are going for your wingman can be vulnerable themselves to a sustained side or rear attack. And if an enemy is on your tail, you may be able to lure it into your allies' loving embrace, if you don't mind losing some armor in the doing.

'''A Note On The Handbrake'''

Used properly and sparingly, the handbrake can be the best medicine for a tight situation. But like all remedies, it's best used in moderation.

When you're moving at high speed in a tight turn, the handbrake can sometimes enable you to turn 180 or 270 degrees in a single turn, at the cost of a fair chunk of your speed. This can be very useful at the end of an attack run, but losing that much of your speed can be lethal. Use with caution.

== Chassis Appendix ==

[[Phoenix]] - The venerable Phoenix is probably your first muscle car, as it’s the most common in [[Somerset]], and even as you move onto better muscles, Phoenixes remain the best option for training drivers, because replacements can always be found. I’ve found them generally forgiving of newbie driving mistakes. Like all muscles, they have a tendency to drift and tend to lose armor to terrain.

[[Sunrise]] - The [[Phoenix]]’s twin. The [[Sunrise]] and [[Phoenix]] are identical in the garage, with identical armor, engine, and bulk characteristics. But out in the wild, the Sunrise is quite different from its sibling. The Sunrise tends to handle differently, softer and with a pronounced drift. After turning at high speed, it’s not uncommon to drift on your original course for several turns. The Sunrise demands planning four or five turns ahead. For all its faults, the [[Sunrise]] is marginally faster than the Phoenix and tends to lose less armor to terrain.

[[Voyager]] - The Voyager's a controversial muscle, sitting where it does right on the border between the the muscles and sedans, but with a 3.2L engine and light weapons, it's a joy to drive. A bit slippery offroad, it boasts a very tight turning radius and the largest killware space of any of the common muscles, but beware its lighter armor. One good setup uses twin [[Machine Gun]]s or [[Gatling Gun]]s to make a versatile interceptor with room for lots of spare ammo or a second gunner to carry home the loot. Drop the tire pressure and increase the length and stiffness a few points, and use it for hit and run attacks. For extra firepower, try a [[Rocket Launcher]]/[[Gatling Gun]] or a [[Micromissile Launcher]]/[[Medium Machine Gun]].

[[Vampire]] - It’s easy to see the rental [[Desert Striker]] as representative of the Vampire, even to take it for a spin, but the rental’s Standard Tyres cripple the Striker’s beautiful possibilities, and lead many to underestimate this beautiful interceptor. The Vampire drives like a [[Phoenix]] on steroids, but the increased responsiveness comes at the cost of 10 bulk. The [[Desert Striker]] build is almost overgunned, because with the [[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]], you don’t have room for a single reload with a gunner. Switching the HMG for an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], you make one of the best combat cars in Evan, because then you can fit in a gunner, a reload and a [[Light Rocket]]. This build is one I’ve used to solo-kill [[Poltergeist|Poltergeists]] and [[Mutant Bomber|Mutant Bombers]], and once scored three kills in a single scout. The Vampire truly shines with a 3.2 v8 under the hood, which lets you fit in a [[Medium Rocket Rack]].
On the other hand, the Vampire seems to be a bit more fragile than the [[Phoenix]], so use it with care.

[[Bullet]] - It’s easy to dismiss the Bullet as a Redneck Racer, since it is a Ford Fusion, the NASCAR car. But I’ve found the Bullet to be a surprisingly flexible hunter on the battlefield. It’s a fair sight faster than either the [[Phoenix]] or the [[Sunrise]], and very maneuverable. With a good driver, I feel like my Bullet is reading my mind, like it’ll do precisely what I ask it to, with a minimum of drifting. Low bulk is certainly an issue, but with a [[Medium Machine Gun]] and a [[Mini Rocket Pod]] or a [[Light Rocket]], the Bullet is a nasty little predator. Like the [[Vampire]], the Bullet truly shines with a V8 under the hood, which frees up space for more ammo or weaponry.

[[Buccaneer]] - The Bucky is one of the larger muscle cars, but it also has a slightly lower armor value. On the other hand, being able to fit a 5L engine, a MMG, and a gunner in makes it SPEEDY. Or you can fit in a 4L and free up 20 bulk for reloads, One-Shots, or even a secondary Gatling for your driver. I’ve seen a few people mount an [[Anti-Tank Gun]] in a Buccaneer, but that takes it out of the Muscle category and places it into a Sedan class, tactically, because there is NO WAY you can maintain speed and control while firing an ATG.

[[Flash]] - The Mini Muscle. With a 2L engine, it’s almost as fast as a 4L Phoenix, and it is so light and fast that it’s a joy to drive. The downside is, you have paper armor, not much of it, and you will have 40 bulk with a gunner. That’s enough for a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], a reload, and a Light Rocket. I wouldn’t recommend mounting anything heavier than a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] on this chassis, it’s very susceptible to recoil, and extremely fragile.

[[Pike]] - The [[Pike]] is the [[Sunrise]]’s bigger, nastier brother. If you think a Sunrise is too bouncy, walk straight past this baby. Fire 1 shot from a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] and watch this thing bounce for 4 turns. Sitting still and getting shot will leave you bouncing wildly and struggling for traction and any ability of escape. Even under MML or MG fire you may find yourself stuck for 4-5 seconds hoping it doesn't roll. All that said, it drives over the rough stuff real well (with care) and is fast. Takes some time to get used to the handling (ghost)and tends to understeer heaps into a corner (especially if you fill its huge engine bay with motor) and oversteer once it does start to turn. Once you do get used to this though and drive accordingly, she's a dream to drive and the low-speed maneuverability is amazing. Reasonable armour. - Bastiel

[[Flail]] - The [[Flail]] has almost sedan-like bulk available and heavy armor. Well, it's more like driving a mini SUV than a musclecar depending on how you arm it, but for a musclecar, boy does it have a lot of armor and almost as much capacity as the [[Osprey]] - FireFly

I've found the Flail a very versatile car if used properly. It's easy to look at all that bulk and armor and think of it as a 'win button.' It isn't. Make a wrong move in the Flail, and you'll be lucky to live to regret it. With a 4L under the hood, its acceleration is substandard, and it really needs a 5L or better for optimal performance. Its maneuvering isn't bad, but like a lot of sedans, its best maneuvering happens under 30 MPH. Use it like a Phoenix or Sunrise, and your Flail will die. Use it as a heavy support car to back up your lighter muscles, and it will serve you very well.

Fully armoured up with B armour, the [[Flail]] weighs over half a tonne more than the smaller muscles, which on the upside allows you to mount some heavier weaponry, however whatever engine you mount, it's pretty slow at accelerating. Though, it doesn't stop accelerating, even when you're hitting 200mph+. With a 5LV8 under the hood (which you really need), you'll have room for a MMG/GG layout or something similiar with two reloads for the MMG, & one for the GG, which works very well if your driver has some gunnery skills. Handling wise, it's a big heavy muscle car so you can't expect much, though it doesn't do that badly. It does tend to get locked in a slide if you're running at speed trying to focus fire on a slow moving target, though the armour strength & points allows you to be a little "braver" than you would in any other muscle. Final note is that in close quarter combat, flooring the gas, leaving the handbrake on & fully turning the wheel lets' you turn 90 degrees plus in a single turn, which makes the [[Flail]] a very formidable chassis, though you really need a 5L or better otherwise it's far too slow. - Tez

The [[Flail]] also has a wide turning radius that should be accounted for. With a 3.2Lv8 and a HCR or Laser it makes a good sniper. - Tango

[[Osprey]] - It has decent handling, not the best, but there are worse. The main issue is that if you get locked into a slide, it can take some turns to get back to moving straight. The main strength lies in its huge capacity, with a crew of 2 and a 3.2lv8, you still have room for 110 bulk worth of weapons, for example, a [[Heavy Car Rifle|HCR]]/[[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]] combo works surprisingly well, but the real fun with that is that it's the most heavily armed musclecar around, and kicks the living snot out of other muscles, if you can handle the weight... - FireFly

[[Roadrunner]] - It handles like a heavy Phoenix. It has the chassis strength of a [[Chomper]]. With the addition of a HUGE motor capacity, this car might fly if not for the downforce supplied by the extraordinarily large rear wing.

It is VERY rare to find one of these beautiful cars. You might not want to risk it ANYWHERE once you do find it.
If you do find one, you`ll be pleasantly surprised at it`s armor capacity and bulk available. - JD Basher

[[Moray]] - No middle ground really, people seem to either love them or hate them. Morays are a bit pricey for something with less armour than a [[Phoenix|Pho,]] but they will take a 5LV8 unexposed, making them a speedy travel car.
They do VERY well with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Like the [[Sunrise]], they can be a bit drifty at high speeds, do not expect radical changes in direction, and this chassis can be quite unforgiving if you oversteer, though they rarely turtle.
There is, however, definitely a learning curve to overcome when using this chassis.
Expect to spin out and lose all of your momentum if you expect too much.

At slower speeds, such as when the dogfight has gone to hell, you can get a 90 degree turn out of this car, easily, assuming you have no major recoil happening from weapons fire, and a good bit more if you like using the handbrake. You can stay inside the turning arc of most NPC vehicles with ease, chewing away at them the whole time. As with all muscle cars, recoil can be an issue with heavier weapons.
Personally, after a good bit of trial and error, I have found that an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Machine Gun|MG]] combo works very well. An [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Micromissile Launcher|MMLs]] combo is effective as well, but one must keep in mind the ammo limitations [[Micromissile Launcher|MML]] have.
As with any muscle car, DON'T STOP unless it's going to give you a BIG tactical advantage.
The [[Moray]] can be a bit more forgiving in slow-speed situations than other muscle cars due to its tight turning radius, but it's best not to get INTO that situation if you don't have to. -Rev. V

[[Corghette]] - A dead sexy little racer - the Corghette is closest in handling to a tighter [[Vampire]] with one major difference. On rough terrain, it's entirely possible to get the Corghette stuck nose-and-tail on terrain, with none of its tires in contact with the ground. If it doesn't get stuck, it's a very responsive and deadly car, with 5 more bulk than the [[Vampire]]. Like the [[Vampire]], the Corghette shines with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Properly handled with an eye for terrain, the Corgy will serve you very well.

[[Category: Guides]]

Demon

2014-07-09T15:32:17Z

Fifth:

{{VehicleDesign|
chassis=Windsor II|
engine=3.2L|
fueltank=2|
tyres=Offroad|
free_bulk=28|
weight=4422|
combat_rating=179|
armor_grade=B|
armor_fr=25|
armor_re=21|
armor_le=21|
armor_ri=21|
armor_to=6|
armor_bo=6|
weapon_1=Car Cannon|
weapon_1_location=Front|
}}

Crew: 1 Driver, 1 Gunner
Ammunition Load: 2 Magazines of Car Cannon ammo

An unusual design, the Demon packs a lot of firepower into a small, maneuverable package. It shines best as fire support for a line of SUVs. By keeping a constant forward speed of about 20-30mph, the Demon can maintain maneuverability while pounding enemies into smithereens. Best manned by a gunner with Rapid Reloading and Heavy Weapons specializations.

[[Player Vehicle Designs|Back To List]]

[[Category: Player Vehicles]]

Demon

2014-07-09T15:31:41Z

Fifth:

{{VehicleDesign|
chassis=Windsor II|
engine=3.2L|
fueltank=2|
tyres=Offroad|
free_bulk=28|
weight=4374|
combat_rating=179|
armor_grade=B|
armor_fr=25|
armor_re=21|
armor_le=21|
armor_ri=21|
armor_to=6|
armor_bo=6|
weapon_1=Car Cannon|
weapon_1_location=Front|
}}

Crew: 1 Driver, 1 Gunner
Ammunition Load: 2 Magazines of Car Cannon ammo

An unusual design, the Demon packs a lot of firepower into a small, maneuverable package. It shines best as fire support for a line of SUVs. By keeping a constant forward speed of about 20-30mph, the Demon can maintain maneuverability while pounding enemies into smithereens. Best manned by a gunner with Rapid Reloading and Heavy Weapons specializations.

[[Player Vehicle Designs|Back To List]]

[[Category: Player Vehicles]]

Demon

2014-07-09T15:28:18Z

Fifth: /* Text complete */

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chassis=Windsor II|
engine=3.2L|
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tyres=Offroad|
free_bulk=28|
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armor_grade=B|
armor_fr=25|
armor_re=21|
armor_le=21|
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armor_to=6|
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weapon_1=Car Cannon|
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Crew: 1 Driver, 1 Gunner
Ammunition Load: 2 Magazines of Car Cannon ammo

An unusual design, the Demon packs a lot of firepower into a small, maneuverable package. It shines best as fire support for a line of SUVs. By keeping a constant forward speed of about 20-30mph, the Demon can maintain maneuverability while pounding enemies into smithereens. Best manned by a gunner with Rapid Reloading and Heavy Weapons specializations.

[[Player Vehicle Designs|Back To List]]

[[Category: Player Vehicles]]

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2014-06-25T22:43:07Z

Fifth: /* Components */

The muscle car is one of the true joys of Darkwind. Neither well armored nor well armed, its primary asset in the wilderness is its speed and maneuverability. Wilderness battles have been won against enormous odds because of one or two well-employed muscle cars.

Muscles are also indispensable for hunting Traders, because only muscle cars can chase down and corral fleeing cargo vehicles.

But muscle cars are terribly vulnerable when exchanging fire with the enemy, due to their light armor and weapon loads, and their high speed can be as much a vulnerability as an asset. The difference between a victorious muscle and a very fast coffin is forethought and planning.

This manual is broken into several sections. First I’ll go over what a muscle car is, and setting up your muscle, and I’ll go over different weapons. Then will be describing basic strategies and tactics, and I’ll close with the Chassis Appendix, going over the chassis one by one.

== Section 1: Setting Up ==

=== What Is (And Isn’t) A Muscle? ===

A muscle is a midsize car that can mount a big engine unexposed. The [[Windsor]] and [[Windsor II]] are not muscles. No car with an exposed engine should be considered a muscle, as they are too vulnerable to survive in a combat zone. Here’s a (partial) list of muscle chassis:

*[[Phoenix]]
*[[Sunrise]]
*[[Voyager]]
*[[Vampire]]
*[[Pike]]
*[[Bullet]]
*[[Buccaneer]]
*[[Roadrunner]]
*[[Moray]]
*[[Flail]]
*[[Osprey]]
*[[Stormer]]
*[[Flash]]
*[[Corghette]]

All of these, other than the Flash and the Voyager, can mount a 4L or larger engine unexposed. The Flash is included because of its sheer speed and ability to accept an engine disproportionately large for its size, and the Voyager is included because of its sheer speed & ability to accept a 3.2l V8, which allows it to keep up with almost anything in the wilderness. I’ll go into each of these chassis in detail in the Chassis Appendix.

=== Components ===

'''Engine'''
In general, you want at least a 4L engine or a 3.2LV8. A full-sized muscle with a 3.2L engine isn’t a muscle at all, it’s a coffin. Some engines can handle a 5L, but keep an eye on the bulk used for weapons and ammo.

'''Armor'''
Max out your front, put 5 on your top and bottom, and distribute the rest evenly between your sides and rear. Class B - NEVER C. A-class armor is tempting and gives a nice speed boost, but is awfully expensive to keep repaired.

'''Fuel'''
A 2-unit tank is sufficient for most muscle operations. An extra unit or two on top of that can enable your muscle scouts to go further out and improve your odds.

'''Tyres'''
Offroad all the way. Handling is everything to a muscle. The exception to this is if you’re working in rough terrain, then you need Reinforced.

'''Crew'''
Driver and gunner. Putting in 2 gunners takes up too much valuable space. Your driver should have at least 20 skill, but 40 is really preferred. With more driving skill, you’ll accelerate faster and you’ll be more stable. Your gunner should have at least some Gunnery skill, but muscles are a good way to train gunners. Defensive Driver is a great specialism for muscle drivers, as is Deathracer.

'''Suspension'''
Suspension settings are different for every chassis and weapon load, but one thing is true across the board: increasing tyre pressure will give you increased acceleration at lower speeds, under about 40MPH, but you will lose some control at the top end. Increased tyre pressure is highly recommended for vehicles that spend time in lower-speed dogfights. Past that, experiment with your cars to find a suspension setting that fits your style.

'''Weapons'''
Front, front, front. You want your weapons on the FRONT. Side mounts are possible, but not generally recommended. Rear mounts sound good on paper, but they’re actually very difficult to use in practice.

Here’s your menu of killware:

[[Machine Gun]] - The vanilla option. Don’t knock it, a pair of these on the front of a muscle can really chew through enemy armor over the long run, and they have decent range and accuracy. The downside is, you need a pair to make a decent punch, and your driver will have to man one of them. Your accuracy with that gun will be lower.

[[Light Machine Gun]] - at 15 bulk, the Light Machine Gun seems very attractive to muscle cars short on space. However, the LMG has only 10 rounds of ammunition, because most NPC cars have more than 10 points of armor on a single facing, it's almost guaranteed that you'll run out of ammunition before you run out of enemy. You can fit an LMG and 3 reloads (40 rounds total) in the same 24 bulk as a MG and the same number of rounds, but firing them all would require 3 reload periods, compared to 1 for the MG. The Light Machine Gun isn't a bad weapon, all things considered, but only as a secondary weapon alongside heavier and longer-lasting firepower.

[[Gatling Gun]] - The [[Machine Gun]] on steroids. The downside is, its range is shorter and you NEED two of them to make a decent punch, so your driver better have decent Gunnery skills. Watch out for the increased recoil - sustained fire can really slow you down.

[[Micromissile Launcher]] - Like the Machine Gun and Gatling Gun, the MML is small enough to be fitted in pairs, or mixed with a MG or GG. However, I don’t recommend doing so. Having an explosive round is useful in some cases, but there isn’t enough punch to outweigh the low ammunition capacity. Some chassis can accept a MML alongside a [[Medium Machine Gun]] as a driver-controlled secondary weapon, and this is an enormously effective build at short range.

[[Medium Machine Gun]] - My favorite muscle weapon. Decent damage, manageable recoil, good ammo supply, and low bulk. You will NOT have enough room for 2 of them, except on the larger cars, but that’s not a bad thing, you’ll be able to fit several reloads or a One-Shot secondary. Putting in just one gun lets your gunner concentrate on killing properly.

[[Heavy Machine Gun]] - One of the heaviest weapons available to muscles, the HMG should be deployed with care. Its recoil is hard enough to seriously affect your handling, and its 40 bulk will generally limit you to a single reload. On the other hand, its sheer power and ammo capacity can sometimes outweigh its bulk. Best deployed on the [[Phoenix]].

[[Rocket Launcher]] - The Rocket Launcher is a sledgehammer of muscle weapons. Peeling 3 or 4 off an enemy with a single hit is very tempting, to say the least. But the 10-round clip means you’ll be reloading mid-fight, and you generally will only have room for a single reload. Having only 20 rounds of fire means you have to hit Every. Single. Time. Also, the large blast radius can make a lot of problems for you in a tight, up-close fight. If you have a Rapid Reload gunner and lots of ammo space, go for it.

[[Heavy Gatling Gun]] - Rare and powerful, the HGG is better mounted on an SUV than a muscle. Its fierce recoil will throw you all over the place.

[[Car Rifle]] - The Sniper’s Best Friend, the Car Rifle is feared for good reason. But in the high-speed muscle fights, you will NOT have enough time to line up a proper shot, and the 15-round magazine means you’ll have less sustained fire. Use a Medium Machine Gun unless you have some very skilled Snipers.

[[Flamethrower]] - The Flamethrower is another weapon that looks better on paper than it does in combat. As long as you’re running like you’re on fire, why not set everyone else on fire too? But unless you like being quite literally on fire, avoid the Flamethrower. Its damage is not high enough to justify its short range and small clip size. Also, ANY damage to the FT will set you on fire. Avoid unless you are making a suicide/novelty car.

[[Napalm Gun]] - The Napalm Gun is perhaps the only ballistic weapon that can be remotely useful on a muscle car. It takes some planning ,especially given that the NG's bulk means that it may be the only weapon on a car, but being able to throw flaming oil into the path of the enemy can be invaluable, especially if you're Kiting.

One-Shots - I’m using this as a catchall for the [[Mini|Mini Rocket]], [[Light|Light Rocket]], [[Medium|Medium Rocket]], and [[Heavy|Heavy Rocket]] Rockets and their respective Racks and Pods. A One-Shot mounted next to your primary weapon can give a low-armor opponent a serious case of the breaches. Given that you’ll need to use your driver to man it and you only have a single shot with them, you need to time your shots carefully to hit an enemy’s weak side from close range. But a well-placed rocket can shorten a duel by several turns. My personal favorite is a toss-up between a [[Light Rocket Rack]] (3 shots, triple the fun!) and a single [[Heavy Rocket]]. (Make a Big Bang!)
As appealing as One-Shots are, NEVER compromise your primary firepower to fit in a bigger One-Shot. Your main weapon is your cake, your One-Shot is your icing.

=== Sample Builds ===

{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
! Name !! Chassis !! Engine !! CR !! Weapons !! Occupants !! Notes
|-
| [[Scimitar]]
| [[Phoenix]] or [[Sunrise]]
| 4L
| 124
| Fr [[GG]]x2
| 2
| An impressive but fragile dogfighter. Stay away from your enemies' weapons, and get the Gatling Guns onto their flanks and rear. The guns work best at close range, especially with low-skill gangers.
|-
| [[Chaser]]
| [[Phoenix]] or [[Sunrise]]
| 4L
| 104
| FR [[MMG]]
| 2 or 3
| This NPC Build has less firepower than the Scimitar, but offers much better ammo capacity and less recoil. The MMG will have a slightly better range than double [[Gatling]]s, and much better control. Add a driver-controlled One-Shot for extra firepower.
|-
| [[Hawk]]
| [[Vampire]]
| 3.2L V8
| 104
| FR [[MMG]] [[MRR]]
| 2
| Expensive but worth every penny. One of the most successful light dogfighters around, because it'll outrun whatever it can't outfight. Deploy in a pair for an instant hunting unit.
|-
| [[Eliminator]]
| [[Voyager]]
| 3.2L (V8 optional)
| 111
| FR 2X [[MG]] RE [[MG]]
| 2-3
| This NPC/Rental model serves as a great base for an interceptor and dogfighter. Low on firepower and fragile, but the Machine Guns give it better range and accuracy than the Scimitar.
|-
| [[Panther]]
| [[Bullet]]
| 4L
| 102
| FR [[MMG]] [[MRP]]
| 2
| An excellent trader-hunter with style and flair. Save the rockets for enemy breaches, and it'll do serious damage.
|-
| [[Kestrel]]
| [[Phoenix]] or [[Sunrise]]
| 3.2L V8
| 112
| FR [[MMG]] [[MML]]
| 2
| Pricey, but extremely effective at short to medium range. The MML adds little recoil to the chassis, giving consistent handling when guns are firing. Leaves a reload each, so be careful when you decide to shoot, this build is only recommended up north.
|-
|}

== Section 2: Let’s Talk Tactics ==

=== Strategy and Combat Roles ===

Muscle tactics fall into four general areas: '''Kiting, Strafing, Dueling''' and '''Chasing'''. Which one of these you perform depends a great deal on the situation of the rest of your scout, so LISTEN to your squadmates. Clear communication can make the difference between a successful scout and a disaster.

*'''Kiting''' - Kiting is distracting the AI opponents. Run fast around them, OUTSIDE of their Line of Fire, and see who peels off to chase you. You don’t need to get the whole group’s attention, and every enemy that’s chasing you is one less that’s firing on your buddies. If none of them chase you, you can start '''Strafing''' their stragglers. If you only pull one enemy, you have a good chance to '''Duel''' it into submission, but if you have more than one, keep running until the rest of your squad is done with their portion and ready to peel them off of you. Kiting can also put you into position to '''Strafe''' stragglers or '''Clip''' artillery wagons.

*'''Strafing''' - Strafing is, in essence, attacking a group of enemies at high speed. Get your speed up - between 60 and 80 is ideal - and pick your closest target. Take several turns to plan out your approach, and check your target’s weapon arcs carefully. A rear strike is ideal on a [[Mutant Marauder]], but not a good idea against a [[Poltergeist]]. NEVER aim straight in at your target, aim slightly to one side. Keep your speed up as you make your attack run, fire a few times, then move on to the next target. You don’t need to kill your target, just sting it. Then you can move onto the next target or break off and set up for another run.

Related to strafing is '''Clipping'''. AI cars with Grenade Launchers and Mortars can be deadly because they tend to hide behind their consorts while showering a squad with high-explosive rain. But a muscle car or two can sometimes loop behind the consorts and knock out or distract an artillery vehicle. Even if the artillery is only distracted, you've bought your teammates a moment of respite from the falling shells.

Clipping an artillery car is risky, but can be done with enough speed. Drop your speed to 40 as you start firing, concentrate your fire on one armor facing, and get your teeth in. If the target or another car seems to be turning for you, accelerate out of danger, rinse, and repeat until your target is dead.

*'''Dueling''' - This is the opposite of Strafing. You’re getting in, going in for the kill, doing it for the thrill. As the name suggests, you’re going for a single opponent, and you’re not giving up until they’re dead in the desert.

First, know your opponent. Know exactly what weapons it has, know his firing arcs, and figure out how to get your teeth into him without getting bitten. In almost every duel, you WILL be outgunned, use your maneuverability to stay out of his fire zones. Taking some fire is all right, but spread it out among your sides, but focus your fire on one or two of his facets. Watch your ammunition level, and leave your opponent lamed and burning.

*'''Chasing''' - During trader hunts, this is where the muscle shows its true strengths. While your heavier allies are hammering the cargo escorts into scrap, your job is simple: keep the cargo from getting away.

Communicate with other chasers, make sure all of the runners are covered and none get to 350 meters.

Runners are fairly dumb AIs, they run away from the closest player. You can use this to your advantage if you can get one muscle in front of the pack, they’ll turn back toward your heavies or scatter into rough terrain. Most runners have heavy rear guns, so don’t get too close. With enough carnage among the escorts, traders will demoralize, but to maximize salvage, it’s a good idea to start shooting at traders when the escort is mostly demoralized. This increases the runners’ stress level and brings them closer to demoralizing. You DON’T want to actually breach them unless you’re in serious danger, but stressing them can shorten the scout by several turns.

Of all the cargo vehicles, [[Trade Runner]]s are the sole exception - you want to kill them, or at least silence their guns. They very rarely carry good cargo, and their heavy artillery can be lethal to chasers. The best tactic for bringing a Trade Runner down is to use two cars to go at its flanks and front and kill its engine. If you can't spare a second car, use terrain to shield yourself from its guns until you can get beside it. Get your teeth into its flank, and don't let go.

'''All-Muscle Squads'''

For an all-muscle squad, forming a line like a conventional scout squad is a recipe for suicide. I've found that the best strategy revolves around breaking your force into units of 2 or 3 cars each, and each attack group picks a target to duel. Running for a time is a good way to break an opposing force up, and then the attack groups can turn on individual enemies. Go in fast and hard, and kill the enemy as fast as possible.

=== Turn By Turn ===

Once the bullets start flying, fighting with a muscle becomes brutally simple: stay out of your enemy’s fire zones and keep your guns on your opponent. Have a working knowledge of the basic Somerset [[NPC Vehicles|NPC designs]] and what gun is on which facing. While avoiding fire is always a must, especially avoid rocket launchers, HMGs, and MMLs - the kinetic impact can badly affect your handling. Pick a target facing and pour your fire into it.

Knowing your car is especially important for muscle drivers. For your first couple outings with a chassis you’re not familiar with, take it out with a group on relatively low-risk scouts until you’re used to the handling. Alternately, load it into DW: Tactical and take it through some paces, get used to how it handles on sand and rock and asphalt.

'''The Slope Turn'''

Use terrain wisely. If you need to turn around quickly, you can climb up a slope and use it to shave a turn or two off your turning time. When your front wheels are on the slope, turn your steering wheel all the way and keep it there until your front is below your back, and then start countersteering out. Be careful, as this can sometimes expose your top armor, but it's a useful trick.

'''Tactical Kiting'''

This is fancy verbiage for using your buddies as bait. Keep an eye on all your buddies - enemies who are going for your wingman can be vulnerable themselves to a sustained side or rear attack. And if an enemy is on your tail, you may be able to lure it into your allies' loving embrace, if you don't mind losing some armor in the doing.

'''A Note On The Handbrake'''

Used properly and sparingly, the handbrake can be the best medicine for a tight situation. But like all remedies, it's best used in moderation.

When you're moving at high speed in a tight turn, the handbrake can sometimes enable you to turn 180 or 270 degrees in a single turn, at the cost of a fair chunk of your speed. This can be very useful at the end of an attack run, but losing that much of your speed can be lethal. Use with caution.

== Chassis Appendix ==

[[Phoenix]] - The venerable Phoenix is probably your first muscle car, as it’s the most common in [[Somerset]], and even as you move onto better muscles, Phoenixes remain the best option for training drivers, because replacements can always be found. I’ve found them generally forgiving of newbie driving mistakes. Like all muscles, they have a tendency to drift and tend to lose armor to terrain.

[[Sunrise]] - The [[Phoenix]]’s twin. The [[Sunrise]] and [[Phoenix]] are identical in the garage, with identical armor, engine, and bulk characteristics. But out in the wild, the Sunrise is quite different from its sibling. The Sunrise tends to handle differently, softer and with a pronounced drift. After turning at high speed, it’s not uncommon to drift on your original course for several turns. The Sunrise demands planning four or five turns ahead. For all its faults, the [[Sunrise]] is marginally faster than the Phoenix and tends to lose less armor to terrain.

[[Voyager]] - The Voyager's a controversial muscle, sitting where it does right on the border between the the muscles and sedans, but with a 3.2L engine and light weapons, it's a joy to drive. A bit slippery offroad, it boasts a very tight turning radius and the largest killware space of any of the common muscles, but beware its lighter armor. One good setup uses twin [[Machine Gun]]s or [[Gatling Gun]]s to make a versatile interceptor with room for lots of spare ammo or a second gunner to carry home the loot. Drop the tire pressure and increase the length and stiffness a few points, and use it for hit and run attacks. For extra firepower, try a [[Rocket Launcher]]/[[Gatling Gun]] or a [[Micromissile Launcher]]/[[Medium Machine Gun]].

[[Vampire]] - It’s easy to see the rental [[Desert Striker]] as representative of the Vampire, even to take it for a spin, but the rental’s Standard Tyres cripple the Striker’s beautiful possibilities, and lead many to underestimate this beautiful interceptor. The Vampire drives like a [[Phoenix]] on steroids, but the increased responsiveness comes at the cost of 10 bulk. The [[Desert Striker]] build is almost overgunned, because with the [[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]], you don’t have room for a single reload with a gunner. Switching the HMG for an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], you make one of the best combat cars in Evan, because then you can fit in a gunner, a reload and a [[Light Rocket]]. This build is one I’ve used to solo-kill [[Poltergeist|Poltergeists]] and [[Mutant Bomber|Mutant Bombers]], and once scored three kills in a single scout. The Vampire truly shines with a 3.2 v8 under the hood, which lets you fit in a [[Medium Rocket Rack]].
On the other hand, the Vampire seems to be a bit more fragile than the [[Phoenix]], so use it with care.

[[Bullet]] - It’s easy to dismiss the Bullet as a Redneck Racer, since it is a Ford Fusion, the NASCAR car. But I’ve found the Bullet to be a surprisingly flexible hunter on the battlefield. It’s a fair sight faster than either the [[Phoenix]] or the [[Sunrise]], and very maneuverable. With a good driver, I feel like my Bullet is reading my mind, like it’ll do precisely what I ask it to, with a minimum of drifting. Low bulk is certainly an issue, but with a [[Medium Machine Gun]] and a [[Mini Rocket Pod]] or a [[Light Rocket]], the Bullet is a nasty little predator. Like the [[Vampire]], the Bullet truly shines with a V8 under the hood, which frees up space for more ammo or weaponry.

[[Buccaneer]] - The Bucky is one of the larger muscle cars, but it also has a slightly lower armor value. On the other hand, being able to fit a 5L engine, a MMG, and a gunner in makes it SPEEDY. Or you can fit in a 4L and free up 20 bulk for reloads, One-Shots, or even a secondary Gatling for your driver. I’ve seen a few people mount an [[Anti-Tank Gun]] in a Buccaneer, but that takes it out of the Muscle category and places it into a Sedan class, tactically, because there is NO WAY you can maintain speed and control while firing an ATG.

[[Flash]] - The Mini Muscle. With a 2L engine, it’s almost as fast as a 4L Phoenix, and it is so light and fast that it’s a joy to drive. The downside is, you have paper armor, not much of it, and you will have 40 bulk with a gunner. That’s enough for a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], a reload, and a Light Rocket. I wouldn’t recommend mounting anything heavier than a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] on this chassis, it’s very susceptible to recoil, and extremely fragile.

[[Pike]] - The [[Pike]] is the [[Sunrise]]’s bigger, nastier brother. If you think a Sunrise is too bouncy, walk straight past this baby. Fire 1 shot from a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] and watch this thing bounce for 4 turns. Sitting still and getting shot will leave you bouncing wildly and struggling for traction and any ability of escape. Even under MML or MG fire you may find yourself stuck for 4-5 seconds hoping it doesn't roll. All that said, it drives over the rough stuff real well (with care) and is fast. Takes some time to get used to the handling (ghost)and tends to understeer heaps into a corner (especially if you fill its huge engine bay with motor) and oversteer once it does start to turn. Once you do get used to this though and drive accordingly, she's a dream to drive and the low-speed maneuverability is amazing. Reasonable armour. - Bastiel

[[Flail]] - The [[Flail]] has almost sedan-like bulk available and heavy armor. Well, it's more like driving a mini SUV than a musclecar depending on how you arm it, but for a musclecar, boy does it have a lot of armor and almost as much capacity as the [[Osprey]] - FireFly

I've found the Flail a very versatile car if used properly. It's easy to look at all that bulk and armor and think of it as a 'win button.' It isn't. Make a wrong move in the Flail, and you'll be lucky to live to regret it. With a 4L under the hood, its acceleration is substandard, and it really needs a 5L or better for optimal performance. Its maneuvering isn't bad, but like a lot of sedans, its best maneuvering happens under 30 MPH. Use it like a Phoenix or Sunrise, and your Flail will die. Use it as a heavy support car to back up your lighter muscles, and it will serve you very well.

Fully armoured up with B armour, the [[Flail]] weighs over half a tonne more than the smaller muscles, which on the upside allows you to mount some heavier weaponry, however whatever engine you mount, it's pretty slow at accelerating. Though, it doesn't stop accelerating, even when you're hitting 200mph+. With a 5LV8 under the hood (which you really need), you'll have room for a MMG/GG layout or something similiar with two reloads for the MMG, & one for the GG, which works very well if your driver has some gunnery skills. Handling wise, it's a big heavy muscle car so you can't expect much, though it doesn't do that badly. It does tend to get locked in a slide if you're running at speed trying to focus fire on a slow moving target, though the armour strength & points allows you to be a little "braver" than you would in any other muscle. Final note is that in close quarter combat, flooring the gas, leaving the handbrake on & fully turning the wheel lets' you turn 90 degrees plus in a single turn, which makes the [[Flail]] a very formidable chassis, though you really need a 5L or better otherwise it's far too slow. - Tez

The [[Flail]] also has a wide turning radius that should be accounted for. With a 3.2Lv8 and a HCR or Laser it makes a good sniper. - Tango

[[Osprey]] - It has decent handling, not the best, but there are worse. The main issue is that if you get locked into a slide, it can take some turns to get back to moving straight. The main strength lies in its huge capacity, with a crew of 2 and a 3.2lv8, you still have room for 110 bulk worth of weapons, for example, a [[Heavy Car Rifle|HCR]]/[[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]] combo works surprisingly well, but the real fun with that is that it's the most heavily armed musclecar around, and kicks the living snot out of other muscles, if you can handle the weight... - FireFly

[[Roadrunner]] - It handles like a heavy Phoenix. It has the chassis strength of a [[Chomper]]. With the addition of a HUGE motor capacity, this car might fly if not for the downforce supplied by the extraordinarily large rear wing.

It is VERY rare to find one of these beautiful cars. You might not want to risk it ANYWHERE once you do find it.
If you do find one, you`ll be pleasantly surprised at it`s armor capacity and bulk available. - JD Basher

[[Moray]] - No middle ground really, people seem to either love them or hate them. Morays are a bit pricey for something with less armour than a [[Phoenix|Pho,]] but they will take a 5LV8 unexposed, making them a speedy travel car.
They do VERY well with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Like the [[Sunrise]], they can be a bit drifty at high speeds, do not expect radical changes in direction, and this chassis can be quite unforgiving if you oversteer, though they rarely turtle.
There is, however, definitely a learning curve to overcome when using this chassis.
Expect to spin out and lose all of your momentum if you expect too much.

At slower speeds, such as when the dogfight has gone to hell, you can get a 90 degree turn out of this car, easily, assuming you have no major recoil happening from weapons fire, and a good bit more if you like using the handbrake. You can stay inside the turning arc of most NPC vehicles with ease, chewing away at them the whole time. As with all muscle cars, recoil can be an issue with heavier weapons.
Personally, after a good bit of trial and error, I have found that an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Machine Gun|MG]] combo works very well. An [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Micromissile Launcher|MMLs]] combo is effective as well, but one must keep in mind the ammo limitations [[Micromissile Launcher|MML]] have.
As with any muscle car, DON'T STOP unless it's going to give you a BIG tactical advantage.
The [[Moray]] can be a bit more forgiving in slow-speed situations than other muscle cars due to its tight turning radius, but it's best not to get INTO that situation if you don't have to. -Rev. V

[[Corghette]] - A dead sexy little racer - the Corghette is closest in handling to a tighter [[Vampire]] with one major difference. On rough terrain, it's entirely possible to get the Corghette stuck nose-and-tail on terrain, with none of its tires in contact with the ground. If it doesn't get stuck, it's a very responsive and deadly car, with 5 more bulk than the [[Vampire]]. Like the [[Vampire]], the Corghette shines with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Properly handled with an eye for terrain, the Corgy will serve you very well.

[[Category: Guides]]

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2012-11-20T20:19:48Z

Fifth: /* Turn By Turn */

The muscle car is one of the true joys of Darkwind. Neither well armored nor well armed, its primary asset in the wilderness is its speed and maneuverability. Wilderness battles have been won against enormous odds because of one or two well-employed muscle cars.

Muscles are also indispensable for hunting Traders, because only muscle cars can chase down and corral fleeing cargo vehicles.

But muscle cars are terribly vulnerable when exchanging fire with the enemy, due to their light armor and weapon loads, and their high speed can be as much a vulnerability as an asset. The difference between a victorious muscle and a very fast coffin is forethought and planning.

This manual is broken into several sections. First I’ll go over what a muscle car is, and setting up your muscle, and I’ll go over different weapons. Then will be describing basic strategies and tactics, and I’ll close with the Chassis Appendix, going over the chassis one by one.

== Section 1: Setting Up ==

=== What Is (And Isn’t) A Muscle? ===

A muscle is a midsize car that can mount a big engine unexposed. The [[Windsor]] and [[Windsor II]] are not muscles. No car with an exposed engine should be considered a muscle, as they are too vulnerable to survive in a combat zone. Here’s a (partial) list of muscle chassis:

*[[Phoenix]]
*[[Sunrise]]
*[[Voyager]]
*[[Vampire]]
*[[Pike]]
*[[Bullet]]
*[[Buccaneer]]
*[[Roadrunner]]
*[[Moray]]
*[[Flail]]
*[[Osprey]]
*[[Stormer]]
*[[Flash]]
*[[Corghette]]

All of these, other than the Flash and the Voyager, can mount a 4L or larger engine unexposed. The Flash is included because of its sheer speed and ability to accept an engine disproportionately large for its size, and the Voyager is included because of its sheer speed & ability to accept a 3.2l V8, which allows it to keep up with almost anything in the wilderness. I’ll go into each of these chassis in detail in the Chassis Appendix.

=== Components ===

'''Engine'''
In general, you want at least a 4L engine or a 3.2LV8. A full-sized muscle with a 3.2L engine isn’t a muscle at all, it’s a coffin. Some engines can handle a 5L, but keep an eye on the bulk used for weapons and ammo.

'''Armor'''
Max out your front, put 5 on your top and bottom, and distribute the rest evenly between your sides and rear. Class B - NEVER C. A-class armor is tempting and gives a nice speed boost, but is awfully expensive to keep repaired.

'''Fuel'''
A 2-unit tank is sufficient for most muscle operations. An extra unit or two on top of that can enable your muscle scouts to go further out and improve your odds.

'''Tyres'''
Offroad all the way. Handling is everything to a muscle. The exception to this is if you’re working in rough terrain, then you need Reinforced.

'''Crew'''
Driver and gunner. Putting in 2 gunners takes up too much valuable space. Your driver should have at least 20 skill, but 40 is really preferred. With more driving skill, you’ll accelerate faster and you’ll be more stable. Your gunner should have at least some Gunnery skill, but muscles are a good way to train gunners. Defensive Driver is a great specialism for muscle drivers, as is Deathracer.

'''Suspension'''
Suspension settings are different for every chassis and weapon load, but one thing is true across the board: increasing tyre pressure will give you increased acceleration at lower speeds, under about 40MPH, but you will lose some control at the top end. Increased tyre pressure is highly recommended for vehicles that spend time in lower-speed dogfights. Past that, experiment with your cars to find a suspension setting that fits your style.

'''Weapons'''
Front, front, front. You want your weapons on the FRONT. Side mounts are possible, but not generally recommended. Rear mounts sound good on paper, but they’re actually very difficult to use in practice.

Here’s your menu of killware:

[[Machine Gun]] - The vanilla option. Don’t knock it, a pair of these on the front of a muscle can really chew through enemy armor over the long run, and they have decent range and accuracy. The downside is, you need a pair to make a decent punch, and your driver will have to man one of them. Your accuracy with that gun will be lower.

[[Gatling Gun]] - The [[Machine Gun]] on steroids. The downside is, its range is shorter and you NEED two of them to make a decent punch, so your driver better have decent Gunnery skills. Watch out for the increased recoil - sustained fire can really slow you down.

[[Micromissile Launcher]] - Like the Machine Gun and Gatling Gun, the MML is small enough to be fitted in pairs, or mixed with a MG or GG. However, I don’t recommend doing so. Having an explosive round is useful in some cases, but there isn’t enough punch to outweigh the low ammunition capacity. Some chassis can accept a MML alongside a [[Medium Machine Gun]] as a driver-controlled secondary weapon, and this is an enormously effective build at short range.

[[Medium Machine Gun]] - My favorite muscle weapon. Decent damage, manageable recoil, good ammo supply, and low bulk. You will NOT have enough room for 2 of them, except on the larger cars, but that’s not a bad thing, you’ll be able to fit several reloads or a One-Shot secondary. Putting in just one gun lets your gunner concentrate on killing properly.

[[Heavy Machine Gun]] - One of the heaviest weapons available to muscles, the HMG should be deployed with care. Its recoil is hard enough to seriously affect your handling, and its 40 bulk will generally limit you to a single reload. On the other hand, its sheer power and ammo capacity can sometimes outweigh its bulk. Best deployed on the [[Phoenix]].

[[Rocket Launcher]] - The Rocket Launcher is a sledgehammer of muscle weapons. Peeling 3 or 4 off an enemy with a single hit is very tempting, to say the least. But the 10-round clip means you’ll be reloading mid-fight, and you generally will only have room for a single reload. Having only 20 rounds of fire means you have to hit Every. Single. Time. Also, the large blast radius can make a lot of problems for you in a tight, up-close fight. If you have a Rapid Reload gunner and lots of ammo space, go for it.

[[Heavy Gatling Gun]] - Rare and powerful, the HGG is better mounted on an SUV than a muscle. Its fierce recoil will throw you all over the place.

[[Car Rifle]] - The Sniper’s Best Friend, the Car Rifle is feared for good reason. But in the high-speed muscle fights, you will NOT have enough time to line up a proper shot, and the 15-round magazine means you’ll have less sustained fire. Use a Medium Machine Gun unless you have some very skilled Snipers.

[[Flamethrower]] - The Flamethrower is another weapon that looks better on paper than it does in combat. As long as you’re running like you’re on fire, why not set everyone else on fire too? But unless you like being quite literally on fire, avoid the Flamethrower. Its damage is not high enough to justify its short range and small clip size. Also, ANY damage to the FT will set you on fire. Avoid unless you are making a suicide/novelty car.

[[Napalm Gun]] - The Napalm Gun is perhaps the only ballistic weapon that can be remotely useful on a muscle car. It takes some planning ,especially given that the NG's bulk means that it may be the only weapon on a car, but being able to throw flaming oil into the path of the enemy can be invaluable, especially if you're Kiting.

One-Shots - I’m using this as a catchall for the [[Mini|Mini Rocket]], [[Light|Light Rocket]], [[Medium|Medium Rocket]], and [[Heavy|Heavy Rocket]] Rockets and their respective Racks and Pods. A One-Shot mounted next to your primary weapon can give a low-armor opponent a serious case of the breaches. Given that you’ll need to use your driver to man it and you only have a single shot with them, you need to time your shots carefully to hit an enemy’s weak side from close range. But a well-placed rocket can shorten a duel by several turns. My personal favorite is a toss-up between a [[Light Rocket Rack]] (3 shots, triple the fun!) and a single [[Heavy Rocket]]. (Make a Big Bang!)
As appealing as One-Shots are, NEVER compromise your primary firepower to fit in a bigger One-Shot. Your main weapon is your cake, your One-Shot is your icing.

=== Sample Builds ===

{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
! Name !! Chassis !! Engine !! CR !! Weapons !! Occupants !! Notes
|-
| [[Scimitar]]
| [[Phoenix]] or [[Sunrise]]
| 4L
| 124
| Fr [[GG]]x2
| 2
| An impressive but fragile dogfighter. Stay away from your enemies' weapons, and get the Gatling Guns onto their flanks and rear. The guns work best at close range, especially with low-skill gangers.
|-
| [[Chaser]]
| [[Phoenix]] or [[Sunrise]]
| 4L
| 104
| FR [[MMG]]
| 2 or 3
| This NPC Build has less firepower than the Scimitar, but offers much better ammo capacity and less recoil. The MMG will have a slightly better range than double [[Gatling]]s, and much better control. Add a driver-controlled One-Shot for extra firepower.
|-
| [[Hawk]]
| [[Vampire]]
| 3.2L V8
| 104
| FR [[MMG]] [[MRR]]
| 2
| Expensive but worth every penny. One of the most successful light dogfighters around, because it'll outrun whatever it can't outfight. Deploy in a pair for an instant hunting unit.
|-
| [[Eliminator]]
| [[Voyager]]
| 3.2L (V8 optional)
| 111
| FR 2X [[MG]] RE [[MG]]
| 2-3
| This NPC/Rental model serves as a great base for an interceptor and dogfighter. Low on firepower and fragile, but the Machine Guns give it better range and accuracy than the Scimitar.
|-
| [[Panther]]
| [[Bullet]]
| 4L
| 102
| FR [[MMG]] [[MRP]]
| 2
| An excellent trader-hunter with style and flair. Save the rockets for enemy breaches, and it'll do serious damage.
|-
| [[Kestrel]]
| [[Phoenix]] or [[Sunrise]]
| 3.2L V8
| 112
| FR [[MMG]] [[MML]]
| 2
| Pricey, but extremely effective at short to medium range. The MML adds little recoil to the chassis, giving consistent handling when guns are firing. Leaves a reload each, so be careful when you decide to shoot, this build is only recommended up north.
|-
|}

== Section 2: Let’s Talk Tactics ==

=== Strategy and Combat Roles ===

Muscle tactics fall into four general areas: '''Kiting, Strafing, Dueling''' and '''Chasing'''. Which one of these you perform depends a great deal on the situation of the rest of your scout, so LISTEN to your squadmates. Clear communication can make the difference between a successful scout and a disaster.

*'''Kiting''' - Kiting is distracting the AI opponents. Run fast around them, OUTSIDE of their Line of Fire, and see who peels off to chase you. You don’t need to get the whole group’s attention, and every enemy that’s chasing you is one less that’s firing on your buddies. If none of them chase you, you can start '''Strafing''' their stragglers. If you only pull one enemy, you have a good chance to '''Duel''' it into submission, but if you have more than one, keep running until the rest of your squad is done with their portion and ready to peel them off of you. Kiting can also put you into position to '''Strafe''' stragglers or '''Clip''' artillery wagons.

*'''Strafing''' - Strafing is, in essence, attacking a group of enemies at high speed. Get your speed up - between 60 and 80 is ideal - and pick your closest target. Take several turns to plan out your approach, and check your target’s weapon arcs carefully. A rear strike is ideal on a [[Mutant Marauder]], but not a good idea against a [[Poltergeist]]. NEVER aim straight in at your target, aim slightly to one side. Keep your speed up as you make your attack run, fire a few times, then move on to the next target. You don’t need to kill your target, just sting it. Then you can move onto the next target or break off and set up for another run.

Related to strafing is '''Clipping'''. AI cars with Grenade Launchers and Mortars can be deadly because they tend to hide behind their consorts while showering a squad with high-explosive rain. But a muscle car or two can sometimes loop behind the consorts and knock out or distract an artillery vehicle. Even if the artillery is only distracted, you've bought your teammates a moment of respite from the falling shells.

Clipping an artillery car is risky, but can be done with enough speed. Drop your speed to 40 as you start firing, concentrate your fire on one armor facing, and get your teeth in. If the target or another car seems to be turning for you, accelerate out of danger, rinse, and repeat until your target is dead.

*'''Dueling''' - This is the opposite of Strafing. You’re getting in, going in for the kill, doing it for the thrill. As the name suggests, you’re going for a single opponent, and you’re not giving up until they’re dead in the desert.

First, know your opponent. Know exactly what weapons it has, know his firing arcs, and figure out how to get your teeth into him without getting bitten. In almost every duel, you WILL be outgunned, use your maneuverability to stay out of his fire zones. Taking some fire is all right, but spread it out among your sides, but focus your fire on one or two of his facets. Watch your ammunition level, and leave your opponent lamed and burning.

*'''Chasing''' - During trader hunts, this is where the muscle shows its true strengths. While your heavier allies are hammering the cargo escorts into scrap, your job is simple: keep the cargo from getting away.

Communicate with other chasers, make sure all of the runners are covered and none get to 350 meters.

Runners are fairly dumb AIs, they run away from the closest player. You can use this to your advantage if you can get one muscle in front of the pack, they’ll turn back toward your heavies or scatter into rough terrain. Most runners have heavy rear guns, so don’t get too close. With enough carnage among the escorts, traders will demoralize, but to maximize salvage, it’s a good idea to start shooting at traders when the escort is mostly demoralized. This increases the runners’ stress level and brings them closer to demoralizing. You DON’T want to actually breach them unless you’re in serious danger, but stressing them can shorten the scout by several turns.

Of all the cargo vehicles, [[Trade Runner]]s are the sole exception - you want to kill them, or at least silence their guns. They very rarely carry good cargo, and their heavy artillery can be lethal to chasers. The best tactic for bringing a Trade Runner down is to use two cars to go at its flanks and front and kill its engine. If you can't spare a second car, use terrain to shield yourself from its guns until you can get beside it. Get your teeth into its flank, and don't let go.

'''All-Muscle Squads'''

For an all-muscle squad, forming a line like a conventional scout squad is a recipe for suicide. I've found that the best strategy revolves around breaking your force into units of 2 or 3 cars each, and each attack group picks a target to duel. Running for a time is a good way to break an opposing force up, and then the attack groups can turn on individual enemies. Go in fast and hard, and kill the enemy as fast as possible.

=== Turn By Turn ===

Once the bullets start flying, fighting with a muscle becomes brutally simple: stay out of your enemy’s fire zones and keep your guns on your opponent. Have a working knowledge of the basic Somerset [[NPC Vehicles|NPC designs]] and what gun is on which facing. While avoiding fire is always a must, especially avoid rocket launchers, HMGs, and MMLs - the kinetic impact can badly affect your handling. Pick a target facing and pour your fire into it.

Knowing your car is especially important for muscle drivers. For your first couple outings with a chassis you’re not familiar with, take it out with a group on relatively low-risk scouts until you’re used to the handling. Alternately, load it into DW: Tactical and take it through some paces, get used to how it handles on sand and rock and asphalt.

'''The Slope Turn'''

Use terrain wisely. If you need to turn around quickly, you can climb up a slope and use it to shave a turn or two off your turning time. When your front wheels are on the slope, turn your steering wheel all the way and keep it there until your front is below your back, and then start countersteering out. Be careful, as this can sometimes expose your top armor, but it's a useful trick.

'''Tactical Kiting'''

This is fancy verbiage for using your buddies as bait. Keep an eye on all your buddies - enemies who are going for your wingman can be vulnerable themselves to a sustained side or rear attack. And if an enemy is on your tail, you may be able to lure it into your allies' loving embrace, if you don't mind losing some armor in the doing.

'''A Note On The Handbrake'''

Used properly and sparingly, the handbrake can be the best medicine for a tight situation. But like all remedies, it's best used in moderation.

When you're moving at high speed in a tight turn, the handbrake can sometimes enable you to turn 180 or 270 degrees in a single turn, at the cost of a fair chunk of your speed. This can be very useful at the end of an attack run, but losing that much of your speed can be lethal. Use with caution.

== Chassis Appendix ==

[[Phoenix]] - The venerable Phoenix is probably your first muscle car, as it’s the most common in [[Somerset]], and even as you move onto better muscles, Phoenixes remain the best option for training drivers, because replacements can always be found. I’ve found them generally forgiving of newbie driving mistakes. Like all muscles, they have a tendency to drift and tend to lose armor to terrain.

[[Sunrise]] - The [[Phoenix]]’s twin. The [[Sunrise]] and [[Phoenix]] are identical in the garage, with identical armor, engine, and bulk characteristics. But out in the wild, the Sunrise is quite different from its sibling. The Sunrise tends to handle differently, softer and with a pronounced drift. After turning at high speed, it’s not uncommon to drift on your original course for several turns. The Sunrise demands planning four or five turns ahead. For all its faults, the [[Sunrise]] is marginally faster than the Phoenix and tends to lose less armor to terrain.

[[Voyager]] - The Voyager's a controversial muscle, sitting where it does right on the border between the the muscles and sedans, but with a 3.2L engine and light weapons, it's a joy to drive. A bit slippery offroad, it boasts a very tight turning radius and the largest killware space of any of the common muscles, but beware its lighter armor. One good setup uses twin [[Machine Gun]]s or [[Gatling Gun]]s to make a versatile interceptor with room for lots of spare ammo or a second gunner to carry home the loot. Drop the tire pressure and increase the length and stiffness a few points, and use it for hit and run attacks. For extra firepower, try a [[Rocket Launcher]]/[[Gatling Gun]] or a [[Micromissile Launcher]]/[[Medium Machine Gun]].

[[Vampire]] - It’s easy to see the rental [[Desert Striker]] as representative of the Vampire, even to take it for a spin, but the rental’s Standard Tyres cripple the Striker’s beautiful possibilities, and lead many to underestimate this beautiful interceptor. The Vampire drives like a [[Phoenix]] on steroids, but the increased responsiveness comes at the cost of 10 bulk. The [[Desert Striker]] build is almost overgunned, because with the [[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]], you don’t have room for a single reload with a gunner. Switching the HMG for an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], you make one of the best combat cars in Evan, because then you can fit in a gunner, a reload and a [[Light Rocket]]. This build is one I’ve used to solo-kill [[Poltergeist|Poltergeists]] and [[Mutant Bomber|Mutant Bombers]], and once scored three kills in a single scout. The Vampire truly shines with a 3.2 v8 under the hood, which lets you fit in a [[Medium Rocket Rack]].
On the other hand, the Vampire seems to be a bit more fragile than the [[Phoenix]], so use it with care.

[[Bullet]] - It’s easy to dismiss the Bullet as a Redneck Racer, since it is a Ford Fusion, the NASCAR car. But I’ve found the Bullet to be a surprisingly flexible hunter on the battlefield. It’s a fair sight faster than either the [[Phoenix]] or the [[Sunrise]], and very maneuverable. With a good driver, I feel like my Bullet is reading my mind, like it’ll do precisely what I ask it to, with a minimum of drifting. Low bulk is certainly an issue, but with a [[Medium Machine Gun]] and a [[Mini Rocket Pod]] or a [[Light Rocket]], the Bullet is a nasty little predator. Like the [[Vampire]], the Bullet truly shines with a V8 under the hood, which frees up space for more ammo or weaponry.

[[Buccaneer]] - The Bucky is one of the larger muscle cars, but it also has a slightly lower armor value. On the other hand, being able to fit a 5L engine, a MMG, and a gunner in makes it SPEEDY. Or you can fit in a 4L and free up 20 bulk for reloads, One-Shots, or even a secondary Gatling for your driver. I’ve seen a few people mount an [[Anti-Tank Gun]] in a Buccaneer, but that takes it out of the Muscle category and places it into a Sedan class, tactically, because there is NO WAY you can maintain speed and control while firing an ATG.

[[Flash]] - The Mini Muscle. With a 2L engine, it’s almost as fast as a 4L Phoenix, and it is so light and fast that it’s a joy to drive. The downside is, you have paper armor, not much of it, and you will have 40 bulk with a gunner. That’s enough for a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], a reload, and a Light Rocket. I wouldn’t recommend mounting anything heavier than a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] on this chassis, it’s very susceptible to recoil, and extremely fragile.

[[Pike]] - The [[Pike]] is the [[Sunrise]]’s bigger, nastier brother. If you think a Sunrise is too bouncy, walk straight past this baby. Fire 1 shot from a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] and watch this thing bounce for 4 turns. Sitting still and getting shot will leave you bouncing wildly and struggling for traction and any ability of escape. Even under MML or MG fire you may find yourself stuck for 4-5 seconds hoping it doesn't roll. All that said, it drives over the rough stuff real well (with care) and is fast. Takes some time to get used to the handling (ghost)and tends to understeer heaps into a corner (especially if you fill its huge engine bay with motor) and oversteer once it does start to turn. Once you do get used to this though and drive accordingly, she's a dream to drive and the low-speed maneuverability is amazing. Reasonable armour. - Bastiel

[[Flail]] - The [[Flail]] has almost sedan-like bulk available and heavy armor. Well, it's more like driving a mini SUV than a musclecar depending on how you arm it, but for a musclecar, boy does it have a lot of armor and almost as much capacity as the [[Osprey]] - FireFly

I've found the Flail a very versatile car if used properly. It's easy to look at all that bulk and armor and think of it as a 'win button.' It isn't. Make a wrong move in the Flail, and you'll be lucky to live to regret it. With a 4L under the hood, its acceleration is substandard, and it really needs a 5L or better for optimal performance. Its maneuvering isn't bad, but like a lot of sedans, its best maneuvering happens under 30 MPH. Use it like a Phoenix or Sunrise, and your Flail will die. Use it as a heavy support car to back up your lighter muscles, and it will serve you very well.

Fully armoured up with B armour, the [[Flail]] weighs over half a tonne more than the smaller muscles, which on the upside allows you to mount some heavier weaponry, however whatever engine you mount, it's pretty slow at accelerating. Though, it doesn't stop accelerating, even when you're hitting 200mph+. With a 5LV8 under the hood (which you really need), you'll have room for a MMG/GG layout or something similiar with two reloads for the MMG, & one for the GG, which works very well if your driver has some gunnery skills. Handling wise, it's a big heavy muscle car so you can't expect much, though it doesn't do that badly. It does tend to get locked in a slide if you're running at speed trying to focus fire on a slow moving target, though the armour strength & points allows you to be a little "braver" than you would in any other muscle. Final note is that in close quarter combat, flooring the gas, leaving the handbrake on & fully turning the wheel lets' you turn 90 degrees plus in a single turn, which makes the [[Flail]] a very formidable chassis, though you really need a 5L or better otherwise it's far too slow. - Tez

The [[Flail]] also has a wide turning radius that should be accounted for. With a 3.2Lv8 and a HCR or Laser it makes a good sniper. - Tango

[[Osprey]] - It has decent handling, not the best, but there are worse. The main issue is that if you get locked into a slide, it can take some turns to get back to moving straight. The main strength lies in its huge capacity, with a crew of 2 and a 3.2lv8, you still have room for 110 bulk worth of weapons, for example, a [[Heavy Car Rifle|HCR]]/[[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]] combo works surprisingly well, but the real fun with that is that it's the most heavily armed musclecar around, and kicks the living snot out of other muscles, if you can handle the weight... - FireFly

[[Roadrunner]] - It handles like a heavy Phoenix. It has the chassis strength of a [[Chomper]]. With the addition of a HUGE motor capacity, this car might fly if not for the downforce supplied by the extraordinarily large rear wing.

It is VERY rare to find one of these beautiful cars. You might not want to risk it ANYWHERE once you do find it.
If you do find one, you`ll be pleasantly surprised at it`s armor capacity and bulk available. - JD Basher

[[Moray]] - No middle ground really, people seem to either love them or hate them. Morays are a bit pricey for something with less armour than a [[Phoenix|Pho,]] but they will take a 5LV8 unexposed, making them a speedy travel car.
They do VERY well with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Like the [[Sunrise]], they can be a bit drifty at high speeds, do not expect radical changes in direction, and this chassis can be quite unforgiving if you oversteer, though they rarely turtle.
There is, however, definitely a learning curve to overcome when using this chassis.
Expect to spin out and lose all of your momentum if you expect too much.

At slower speeds, such as when the dogfight has gone to hell, you can get a 90 degree turn out of this car, easily, assuming you have no major recoil happening from weapons fire, and a good bit more if you like using the handbrake. You can stay inside the turning arc of most NPC vehicles with ease, chewing away at them the whole time. As with all muscle cars, recoil can be an issue with heavier weapons.
Personally, after a good bit of trial and error, I have found that an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Machine Gun|MG]] combo works very well. An [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Micromissile Launcher|MMLs]] combo is effective as well, but one must keep in mind the ammo limitations [[Micromissile Launcher|MML]] have.
As with any muscle car, DON'T STOP unless it's going to give you a BIG tactical advantage.
The [[Moray]] can be a bit more forgiving in slow-speed situations than other muscle cars due to its tight turning radius, but it's best not to get INTO that situation if you don't have to. -Rev. V

[[Corghette]] - A dead sexy little racer - the Corghette is closest in handling to a tighter [[Vampire]] with one major difference. On rough terrain, it's entirely possible to get the Corghette stuck nose-and-tail on terrain, with none of its tires in contact with the ground. If it doesn't get stuck, it's a very responsive and deadly car, with 5 more bulk than the [[Vampire]]. Like the [[Vampire]], the Corghette shines with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Properly handled with an eye for terrain, the Corgy will serve you very well.

[[Category: Guides]]

Player Vehicle Designs

2012-04-05T17:44:43Z

Fifth: added Demon design.

Here is a list of common vehicle builds that players have found successful.

{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
! Name !! Chassis !! CR !! Weapons !! Occupants !! Notes
|-
| [[Hound]]
| [[Alpha]]
| 78
| Fr [[GG]]
| 2
| A fairly common Sub-Compact design when gangers skilled in both Driving and Gunnery are in short supply.
|-
| [[Scimitar]]
| [[Phoenix]] or [[Sunrise]]
| 124
| Fr [[GG]]x2
| 2
| An impressive but fragile dogfighter. Stay away from your enemies' weapons, and get the Gatling Guns onto their flanks and rear.
|-
| [[Diplomat]]
| [[Mercenary]]
| ~175
| Fr [[MMG]]/[[RL]]
| 2
|
|-
| [[Landcrusher]]
| [[Landrunner]]
| 249
| Fr [[HMG]]x2, Le [[MMG]]
| 3-4
|
|-
| [[Landy Survivor]]
| [[Landrunner]]
| 234
| Fr [[HGG]]/[[RL]], Le [[Medium Rocket|MR]]
| 3
| A Strong line vehicle that can dogfight in a pinch
|-
| [[Ship O' The Line]]
| [[Apache]]
| 223
| Fr [[HMG]]x2, Le [[GG]]
| 3
| Probably the most common car seen in Somerset. This car is a well balanced, tough machine
|-
| [[4Gat Punisher]]
| [[Apache]]
| 236
| Fr [[GG]] x2, Re [[GG]] x2
| 3-4
|A Proven Killer! Get close, hold them by the belt, and beat them till they bleed!
|
|-
| [[Merc Runner]]
| [[Mercenary]]
| 76
| No weapons
| 3
|An EXCELLENT mission runner! With a 15 unit fuel tank and armor as stated, you can haul up to 100 bulk on missions.
|-
| [[PBR Streetgang]]
| [[Two-Axle Lorry]]
| 295
| Fr [[HMG]]/[[ReRam]], Sides [[MMG]]/[[GG]], Re [[HMG]]/[[HGG]]
| up to 8
|This lorry can run missions and fight to get them to their destination! Run this one solo and use a good scout driving and fill up your gunner seats. DON'T use escorts, it will raise the CR too high. Running solo will get you 2/4 enemy cars at the most which is easily manageable with all the guns on this Land-Whale!
|-
| [[Witch]]
| [[Windsor II]]
| 149
| Fr [[GG]]/[[HMG]]
| 3
| A proven dog-fighter, go for the throat with its teeth and very little will survive.
|-
| [[Demon]]
| [[Windsor II]]
| 149?
| Fr [[Car Cannon]]
| 2
| An odd but useful fire-support vehicle, the Demon is invaluable providing a heavy beating to enemies. Very maneuverable whenever it isn't firing. Pack 2 magazines and a driver with Rapid Reloading, and enjoy the thumping!
|
|}

For posting vehicle designs in the wiki you should use the [[Template:VehicleDesign]] template.

You can also use the online [http://dw.laasma.ee/carbuilder Carbuilder] and let it generate the wiki markup for you by clicking the "Darkwind Wiki Vehicle Template" link in the vehicle page.

Example code for a vehicle design.
<pre>
<nowiki>{{VehicleDesign|
chassis=Apache|
engine=3.2L V8|
fueltank=2|
tyres=Reinforced|
free_bulk=105|
weight=6372|
combat_rating=?|
armor_grade=B|
armor_fr=32|
armor_re=28|
armor_le=28|
armor_ri=28|
armor_to=8|
armor_bo=8|
weapon_1=Heavy Machine Gun|
weapon_1_location=Front|
weapon_2=Heavy Machine Gun|
weapon_2_location=Front|
}}</nowiki>
</pre>

[[Category: Player Vehicles]]

Napalm Gun

2012-02-19T06:03:02Z

Fifth: creating page.

The Napalm Gun is a weapon that doesn't do a lot of direct damage. But by virtue of its effects, it's one of the most powerful weapons in the game.

The Napalm Gun launched a grenade at a high ballistic arc like a Car Grenade Launcher, but the grenades do very little damage even if they hit directly. What they do is to spread a pool of flaming oil that damages tyres and bottom armor.

The Napalm Gun is a direct strike at the mobility of your enemies. A field of Napalm Gun shots in your enemies' path will leave them slowed, crippled and easy meat.

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2012-02-19T05:45:11Z

Fifth: /* Chassis Appendix */

The muscle car is one of the true joys of Darkwind. Neither well armored nor well armed, its primary asset in the wilderness is its speed and maneuverability. Wilderness battles have been won against enormous odds because of one or two well-employed muscle cars.

Muscles are also indispensable for hunting Traders, because only muscle cars can chase down and corral fleeing cargo vehicles.

But muscle cars are terribly vulnerable when exchanging fire with the enemy, due to their light armor and weapon loads, and their high speed can be as much a vulnerability as an asset. The difference between a victorious muscle and a very fast coffin is forethought and planning.

This manual is broken into several sections. First I’ll go over what a muscle car is, and setting up your muscle, and I’ll go over different weapons. Then will be basic strategies and tactics, and I’ll close with the Chassis Appendix, going over the chassis one by one.

== Section 1: Setting Up ==

=== What Is (And Isn’t) A Muscle? ===

A muscle is a midsize car that can mount a big engine unexposed. The [[Windsor]] and [[Windsor II]] are not muscles. No car with an exposed engine should be considered a muscle, as they are too vulnerable to survive in a combat zone. Here’s a (partial) list of muscle chassis:

*[[Phoenix]]
*[[Sunrise]]
*[[Voyager]]
*[[Vampire]]
*[[Pike]]
*[[Bullet]]
*[[Buccaneer]]
*[[Roadrunner]]
*[[Moray]]
*[[Flail]]
*[[Osprey]]
*[[Stormer]]
*[[Flash]]
*[[Corghette]]

All of these, other than the Flash and the Voyager, can mount a 4L or larger engine unexposed. The Flash is included because of its sheer speed and ability to accept an engine disproportionately large for its size, and the Voyager is included because of its sheer speed & ability to accept a 3.2l V8, which allows it to keep up with almost anything in the wilderness. I’ll go into each of these chassis in detail in the Chassis Appendix.

=== Components ===

'''Engine'''
In general, you want at least a 4L engine or a 3.2LV8. A full-sized muscle with a 3.2L engine isn’t a muscle at all, it’s a coffin. Some engines can handle a 5L, but keep an eye on the bulk used for weapons and ammo.

'''Armor'''
Max out your front, put 5 on your top and bottom, and distribute the rest evenly between your sides and rear. Class B - NEVER C. A-class armor is tempting and gives a nice speed boost, but is awfully expensive to keep repaired.

'''Fuel'''
A 2-unit tank is sufficient for most muscle operations. An extra unit or two on top of that can enable your muscle scouts to go further out and improve your odds.

'''Tyres'''
Offroad all the way. Handling is everything to a muscle. The exception to this is if you’re working in rough terrain, then you need Reinforced.

'''Crew'''
Driver and gunner. Putting in 2 gunners takes up too much valuable space. Your driver should have at least 20 skill, but 40 is really preferred. With more driving skill, you’ll accelerate faster and you’ll be more stable. Your gunner should have at least some Gunnery skill, but muscles are a good way to train gunners. Defensive Driver is a great specialism for muscle drivers, as is Deathracer.

'''Suspension'''
Suspension settings are different for every chassis and weapon load, but one thing is true across the board: increasing tyre pressure will give you increased acceleration at lower speeds, under about 40MPH, but you will lose some control at the top end. Increased tyre pressure is highly recommended for vehicles that spend time in lower-speed dogfights. Past that, experiment with your cars to find a suspension setting that fits your style.

'''Weapons'''
Front, front, front. You want your weapons on the FRONT. Side mounts are possible, but not generally recommended. Rear mounts sound good on paper, but they’re actually very difficult to use in practice.

Here’s your menu of killware:

[[Machine Gun]] - The vanilla option. Don’t knock it, a pair of these on the front of a muscle can really chew through enemy armor over the long run, and they have decent range and accuracy. The downside is, you need a pair to make a decent punch, and your driver will have to man one of them. Your accuracy with that gun will be lower.

[[Gatling Gun]] - The [[Machine Gun]] on steroids. The downside is, its range is shorter and you NEED two of them to make a decent punch, so your driver better have decent Gunnery skills. Watch out for the increased recoil - sustained fire can really slow you down.

[[Micromissile Launcher]] - Like the Machine Gun and Gatling Gun, the MML is small enough to be fitted in pairs, or mixed with a MG or GG. However, I don’t recommend doing so. Having an explosive round is useful in some cases, but there isn’t enough punch to outweigh the low ammunition capacity. Some chassis can accept a MML alongside a [[Medium Machine Gun]] as a driver-controlled secondary weapon, and this is an enormously effective build at short range.

[[Medium Machine Gun]] - My favorite muscle weapon. Decent damage, manageable recoil, good ammo supply, and low bulk. You will NOT have enough room for 2 of them, except on the larger cars, but that’s not a bad thing, you’ll be able to fit several reloads or a One-Shot secondary. Putting in just one gun lets your gunner concentrate on killing properly.

[[Heavy Machine Gun]] - One of the heaviest weapons available to muscles, the HMG should be deployed with care. Its recoil is hard enough to seriously affect your handling, and its 40 bulk will generally limit you to a single reload. On the other hand, its sheer power and ammo capacity can sometimes outweigh its bulk. Best deployed on the [[Phoenix]].

[[Rocket Launcher]] - The Rocket Launcher is a sledgehammer of muscle weapons. Peeling 3 or 4 off an enemy with a single hit is very tempting, to say the least. But the 10-round clip means you’ll be reloading mid-fight, and you generally will only have room for a single reload. Having only 20 rounds of fire means you have to hit Every. Single. Time. Also, the large blast radius can make a lot of problems for you in a tight, up-close fight. If you have a Rapid Reload gunner and lots of ammo space, go for it.

[[Heavy Gatling Gun]] - Rare and powerful, the HGG is better mounted on an SUV than a muscle. Its fierce recoil will throw you all over the place.

[[Car Rifle]] - The Sniper’s Best Friend, the Car Rifle is feared for good reason. But in the high-speed muscle fights, you will NOT have enough time to line up a proper shot, and the 15-round magazine means you’ll have less sustained fire. Use a Medium Machine Gun unless you have some very skilled Snipers.

[[Flamethrower]] - The Flamethrower is another weapon that looks better on paper than it does in combat. As long as you’re running like you’re on fire, why not set everyone else on fire too? But unless you like being quite literally on fire, avoid the Flamethrower. Its damage is not high enough to justify its short range and small clip size. Also, ANY damage to the FT will set you on fire. Avoid unless you are making a suicide/novelty car.

[[Napalm Gun]] - The Napalm Gun is perhaps the only ballistic weapon that can be remotely useful on a muscle car. It takes some planning ,especially given that the NG's bulk means that it may be the only weapon on a car, but being able to throw flaming oil into the path of the enemy can be invaluable, especially if you're Kiting.

One-Shots - I’m using this as a catchall for the [[Mini|Mini Rocket]], [[Light|Light Rocket]], [[Medium|Medium Rocket]], and [[Heavy|Heavy Rocket]] Rockets and their respective Racks and Pods. A One-Shot mounted next to your primary weapon can give a low-armor opponent a serious case of the breaches. Given that you’ll need to use your driver to man it and you only have a single shot with them, you need to time your shots carefully to hit an enemy’s weak side from close range. But a well-placed rocket can shorten a duel by several turns. My personal favorite is a toss-up between a [[Light Rocket Rack]] (3 shots, triple the fun!) and a single [[Heavy Rocket]]. (Make a Big Bang!)
As appealing as One-Shots are, NEVER compromise your primary firepower to fit in a bigger One-Shot. Your main weapon is your cake, your One-Shot is your icing.

=== Sample Builds ===

{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
! Name !! Chassis !! Engine !! CR !! Weapons !! Occupants !! Notes
|-
| [[Scimitar]]
| [[Phoenix]] or [[Sunrise]]
| 4L
| 124
| Fr [[GG]]x2
| 2
| An impressive but fragile dogfighter. Stay away from your enemies' weapons, and get the Gatling Guns onto their flanks and rear. The guns work best at close range, especially with low-skill gangers.
|-
| [[Chaser]]
| [[Phoenix]] or [[Sunrise]]
| 4L
| 104
| FR [[MMG]]
| 2 or 3
| This NPC Build has less firepower than the Scimitar, but offers much better ammo capacity and less recoil. The MMG will have a slightly better range than double [[Gatling]]s, and much better control. Add a driver-controlled One-Shot for extra firepower.
|-
| [[Hawk]]
| [[Vampire]]
| 3.2LV8
| 104
| FR [[MMG]] [[MRR]]
| 2
| Expensive but worth every penny. One of the most successful light dogfighters around, because it'll outrun whatever it can't outfight. Deploy in a pair for an instant hunting unit.
|-
| [[Eliminator]]
| [[Voyager]]
| 3.2L (V8 optional)
| 111
| FR 2X [[MG]] RE [[MG]]
| 2-3
| This NPC/Rental model serves as a great base for an interceptor and dogfighter. Low on firepower and fragile, but the Machine Guns give it better range and accuracy than the Scimitar.
|-
| [[Panther]]
| [[Bullet]]
| 4L
| 102
| FR [[MMG]] [[MRP]]
| 2
| An excellent trader-hunter with style and flair. Save the rockets for enemy breaches, and it'll do serious damage.
|-
|}

== Section 2: Let’s Talk Tactics ==

=== Strategy and Combat Roles ===

Muscle tactics fall into four general areas: '''Kiting, Strafing, Dueling''' and '''Chasing'''. Which one of these you perform depends a great deal on the situation of the rest of your scout, so LISTEN to your squadmates. Clear communication can make the difference between a successful scout and a disaster.

*'''Kiting''' - Kiting is distracting the AI opponents. Run fast around them, OUTSIDE of their Line of Fire, and see who peels off to chase you. You don’t need to get the whole group’s attention, and every enemy that’s chasing you is one less that’s firing on your buddies. If none of them chase you, you can start '''Strafing''' their stragglers. If you only pull one enemy, you have a good chance to '''Duel''' it into submission, but if you have more than one, keep running until the rest of your squad is done with their portion and ready to peel them off of you. Kiting can also put you into position to '''Strafe''' stragglers or '''Clip''' artillery wagons.

*'''Strafing''' - Strafing is, in essence, attacking a group of enemies at high speed. Get your speed up - between 60 and 80 is ideal - and pick your closest target. Take several turns to plan out your approach, and check your target’s weapon arcs carefully. A rear strike is ideal on a [[Mutant Marauder]], but not a good idea against a [[Poltergeist]]. NEVER aim straight in at your target, aim slightly to one side. Keep your speed up as you make your attack run, fire a few times, then move on to the next target. You don’t need to kill your target, just sting it. Then you can move onto the next target or break off and set up for another run.

Related to strafing is '''Clipping'''. AI cars with Grenade Launchers and Mortars can be deadly because they tend to hide behind their consorts while showering a squad with high-explosive rain. But a muscle car or two can sometimes loop behind the consorts and knock out or distract an artillery vehicle. Even if the artillery is only distracted, you've bought your teammates a moment of respite from the falling shells.

Clipping an artillery car is risky, but can be done with enough speed. Drop your speed to 40 as you start firing, concentrate your fire on one armor facing, and get your teeth in. If the target or another car seems to be turning for you, accelerate out of danger, rinse, and repeat until your target is dead.

*'''Dueling''' - This is the opposite of Strafing. You’re getting in, going in for the kill, doing it for the thrill. As the name suggests, you’re going for a single opponent, and you’re not giving up until they’re dead in the desert.

First, know your opponent. Know exactly what weapons it has, know his firing arcs, and figure out how to get your teeth into him without getting bitten. In almost every duel, you WILL be outgunned, use your maneuverability to stay out of his fire zones. Taking some fire is all right, but spread it out among your sides, but focus your fire on one or two of his facets. Watch your ammunition level, and leave your opponent lamed and burning.

*'''Chasing''' - During trader hunts, this is where the muscle shows its true strengths. While your heavier allies are hammering the cargo escorts into scrap, your job is simple: keep the cargo from getting away.

Communicate with other chasers, make sure all of the runners are covered and none get to 350 meters.

Runners are fairly dumb AIs, they run away from the closest player. You can use this to your advantage if you can get one muscle in front of the pack, they’ll turn back toward your heavies or scatter into rough terrain. Most runners have heavy rear guns, so don’t get too close. With enough carnage among the escorts, traders will demoralize, but to maximize salvage, it’s a good idea to start shooting at traders when the escort is mostly demoralized. This increases the runners’ stress level and brings them closer to demoralizing. You DON’T want to actually breach them unless you’re in serious danger, but stressing them can shorten the scout by several turns.

Of all the cargo vehicles, [[Trade Runner]]s are the sole exception - you want to kill them, or at least silence their guns. They very rarely carry good cargo, and their heavy artillery can be lethal to chasers. The best tactic for bringing a Trade Runner down is to use two cars to go at its flanks and front and kill its engine. If you can't spare a second car, use terrain to shield yourself from its guns until you can get beside it. Get your teeth into its flank, and don't let go.

'''All-Muscle Squads'''

For an all-muscle squad, forming a line like a conventional scout squad is a recipe for suicide. I've found that the best strategy revolves around breaking your force into units of 2 or 3 cars each, and each attack group picks a target to duel. Running for a time is a good way to break an opposing force up, and then the attack groups can turn on individual enemies. Go in fast and hard, and kill the enemy as fast as possible.

=== Turn By Turn ===

Once the bullets start flying, fighting with a muscle becomes brutally simple: stay out of your enemy’s fire zones and keep your guns on your opponent. Have a working knowledge of the basic Somerset [[NPC Vehicles|NPC designs]] and what gun is on which facing. While avoiding fire is always a must, especially avoid rocket launchers, HMGs, and MMLs - the kinetic impact can badly affect your handling. Pick a target facing and pour your fire into it.

Knowing your car is especially important for muscle drivers. For your first couple outings with a chassis you’re not familiar with, take it out with a group on relatively low-risk scouts until you’re used to the handling. Alternately, load it into DW: Tactical and take it through some paces, get used to how it handles on sand and rock and asphalt.

'''The Slope Turn'''

Use terrain wisely. If you need to turn around quickly, you can climb up a slope and use it to shave a turn or two off your turning time. when front wheels are on the slope, turn your steering wheel all the way and keep it there until your front is below your back, and then start countersteering out. Be careful, as this can expose your top armor, but it's a useful trick.

'''Tactical Kiting'''

This is fancy verbiage for using your buddies as bait. Keep an eye on all your buddies - enemies who are going for your wingman can be vulnerable themselves to a sustained side or rear attack. And if an enemy is on your tail, you may be able to lure it into your allies' loving embrace, if you don't mind losing some armor in the doing.

'''A Note On The Handbrake'''

Used properly and sparingly, the handbrake can be the best medicine for a tight situation. But like all remedies, it's best used in moderation.

When you're moving at high speed in a tight turn, the handbrake can sometimes enable you to turn 180 or 270 degrees in a single turn, at the cost of a fair chunk of your speed. This can be very useful at the end of an attack run, but losing that much of your speed can be lethal. Use with caution.

== Chassis Appendix ==

[[Phoenix]] - The venerable Phoenix is probably your first muscle car, as it’s the most common in [[Somerset]], and even as you move onto better muscles, Phoenixes remain the best option for training drivers, because replacements can always be found. I’ve found them generally forgiving of newbie driving mistakes. Like all muscles, they have a tendency to drift and tend to lose armor to terrain.

[[Sunrise]] - The [[Phoenix]]’s twin. The [[Sunrise]] and [[Phoenix]] are identical in the garage, with identical armor, engine, and bulk characteristics. But out in the wild, the Sunrise is quite different from its sibling. The Sunrise tends to handle differently, softer and with a pronounced drift. After turning at high speed, it’s not uncommon to drift on your original course for several turns. The Sunrise demands planning four or five turns ahead. For all its faults, the [[Sunrise]] is marginally faster than the Phoenix and tends to lose less armor to terrain.

[[Voyager]] - The Voyager's a controversial muscle, sitting where it does right on the border between the the muscles and sedans, but with a 3.2L engine and light weapons, it's a joy to drive. A bit slippery offroad, it boasts a very tight turning radius and the largest killware space of any of the common muscles, but beware its lighter armor. One good setup uses twin [[Machine Gun]]s or [[Gatling Gun]]s to make a versatile interceptor with room for lots of spare ammo or a second gunner to carry home the loot. Drop the tire pressure and increase the length and stiffness a few points, and use it for hit and run attacks. For extra firepower, try a [[Rocket Launcher]]/[[Gatling Gun]] or a [[Micromissile Launcher]]/[[Medium Machine Gun]].

[[Vampire]] - It’s easy to see the rental [[Desert Striker]] as representative of the Vampire, even to take it for a spin, but the rental’s Standard Tyres cripple the Striker’s beautiful possibilities, and lead many to underestimate this beautiful interceptor. The Vampire drives like a [[Phoenix]] on steroids, but the increased responsiveness comes at the cost of 10 bulk. The [[Desert Striker]] build is almost overgunned, because with the [[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]], you don’t have room for a single reload with a gunner. Switching the HMG for an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], you make one of the best combat cars in Evan, because then you can fit in a gunner, a reload and a [[Light Rocket]]. This build is one I’ve used to solo-kill [[Poltergeist|Poltergeists]] and [[Mutant Bomber|Mutant Bombers]], and once scored three kills in a single scout. The Vampire truly shines with a 3.2 v8 under the hood, which lets you fit in a [[Medium Rocket Rack]].
On the other hand, the Vampire seems to be a bit more fragile than the [[Phoenix]], so use it with care.

[[Bullet]] - It’s easy to dismiss the Bullet as a Redneck Racer, since it is a Ford Fusion, the NASCAR car. But I’ve found the Bullet to be a surprisingly flexible hunter on the battlefield. It’s a fair sight faster than either the [[Phoenix]] or the [[Sunrise]], and very maneuverable. With a good driver, I feel like my Bullet is reading my mind, like it’ll do precisely what I ask it to, with a minimum of drifting. Low bulk is certainly an issue, but with a [[Medium Machine Gun]] and a [[Mini Rocket Pod]] or a [[Light Rocket]], the Bullet is a nasty little predator. Like the [[Vampire]], the Bullet truly shines with a V8 under the hood, which frees up space for more ammo or weaponry.

[[Buccaneer]] - The Bucky is one of the larger muscle cars, but it also has a slightly lower armor value. On the other hand, being able to fit a 5L engine, a MMG, and a gunner in makes it SPEEDY. Or you can fit in a 4L and free up 20 bulk for reloads, One-Shots, or even a secondary Gatling for your driver. I’ve seen a few people mount an [[Anti-Tank Gun]] in a Buccaneer, but that takes it out of the Muscle category and places it into a Sedan class, tactically, because there is NO WAY you can maintain speed and control while firing an ATG.

[[Flash]] - The Mini Muscle. With a 2L engine, it’s almost as fast as a 4L Phoenix, and it is so light and fast that it’s a joy to drive. The downside is, you have paper armor, not much of it, and you will have 40 bulk with a gunner. That’s enough for a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], a reload, and a Light Rocket. I wouldn’t recommend mounting anything heavier than a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] on this chassis, it’s very susceptible to recoil, and extremely fragile.

[[Pike]] - The [[Pike]] is the [[Sunrise]]’s bigger, nastier brother. If you think a Sunrise is too bouncy, walk straight past this baby. Fire 1 shot from a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] and watch this thing bounce for 4 turns. Sitting still and getting shot will leave you bouncing wildly and struggling for traction and any ability of escape. Even under MML or MG fire you may find yourself stuck for 4-5 seconds hoping it doesn't roll. All that said, it drives over the rough stuff real well (with care) and is fast. Takes some time to get used to the handling (ghost)and tends to understeer heaps into a corner (especially if you fill its huge engine bay with motor) and oversteer once it does start to turn. Once you do get used to this though and drive accordingly, she's a dream to drive and the low-speed maneuverability is amazing. Reasonable armour. - Bastiel

[[Flail]] - The [[Flail]] has almost sedan-like bulk available and heavy armor. Well, it's more like driving a mini SUV than a musclecar depending on how you arm it, but for a musclecar, boy does it have a lot of armor and almost as much capacity as the [[Osprey]] - FireFly

I've found the Flail a very versatile car if used properly. It's easy to look at all that bulk and armor and think of it as a 'win button.' It isn't. Make a wrong move in the Flail, and you'll be lucky to live to regret it. With a 4L under the hood, its acceleration is substandard, and it really needs a 5L or better for optimal performance. Its maneuvering isn't bad, but like a lot of sedans, its best maneuvering happens under 30 MPH. Use it like a Phoenix or Sunrise, and your Flail will die. Use it as a heavy support car to back up your lighter muscles, and it will serve you very well.

Fully armoured up with B armour, the [[Flail]] weighs over half a tonne more than the smaller muscles, which on the upside allows you to mount some heavier weaponry, however whatever engine you mount, it's pretty slow at accelerating. Though, it doesn't stop accelerating, even when you're hitting 200mph+. With a 5LV8 under the hood (which you really need), you'll have room for a MMG/GG layout or something similiar with two reloads for the MMG, & one for the GG, which works very well if your driver has some gunnery skills. Handling wise, it's a big heavy muscle car so you can't expect much, though it doesn't do that badly. It does tend to get locked in a slide if you're running at speed trying to focus fire on a slow moving target, though the armour strength & points allows you to be a little "braver" than you would in any other muscle. Final note is that in close quarter combat, flooring the gas, leaving the handbrake on & fully turning the wheel lets' you turn 90 degrees plus in a single turn, which makes the [[Flail]] a very formidable chassis, though you really need a 5L or better otherwise it's far too slow. - Tez

The [[Flail]] also has a wide turning radius that should be accounted for. With a 3.2Lv8 and a HCR or Laser it makes a good sniper. - Tango

[[Osprey]] - It has decent handling, not the best, but there are worse. The main issue is that if you get locked into a slide, it can take some turns to get back to moving straight. The main strength lies in its huge capacity, with a crew of 2 and a 3.2lv8, you still have room for 110 bulk worth of weapons, for example, a [[Heavy Car Rifle|HCR]]/[[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]] combo works surprisingly well, but the real fun with that is that it's the most heavily armed musclecar around, and kicks the living snot out of other muscles, if you can handle the weight... - FireFly

[[Roadrunner]] - It handles like a heavy Phoenix. It has the chassis strength of a [[Chomper]]. With the addition of a HUGE motor capacity, this car might fly if not for the downforce supplied by the extraordinarily large rear wing.

It is VERY rare to find one of these beautiful cars. You might not want to risk it ANYWHERE once you do find it.
If you do find one, you`ll be pleasantly surprised at it`s armor capacity and bulk available. - JD Basher

[[Moray]] - No middle ground really, people seem to either love them or hate them. Morays are a bit pricey for something with less armour than a [[Phoenix|Pho,]] but they will take a 5LV8 unexposed, making them a speedy travel car.
They do VERY well with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Like the [[Sunrise]], they can be a bit drifty at high speeds, do not expect radical changes in direction, and this chassis can be quite unforgiving if you oversteer, though they rarely turtle.
There is, however, definitely a learning curve to overcome when using this chassis.
Expect to spin out and lose all of your momentum if you expect too much.

At slower speeds, such as when the dogfight has gone to hell, you can get a 90 degree turn out of this car, easily, assuming you have no major recoil happening from weapons fire, and a good bit more if you like using the handbrake. You can stay inside the turning arc of most NPC vehicles with ease, chewing away at them the whole time. As with all muscle cars, recoil can be an issue with heavier weapons.
Personally, after a good bit of trial and error, I have found that an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Machine Gun|MG]] combo works very well. An [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Micromissile Launcher|MMLs]] combo is effective as well, but one must keep in mind the ammo limitations [[Micromissile Launcher|MML]] have.
As with any muscle car, DON'T STOP unless it's going to give you a BIG tactical advantage.
The [[Moray]] can be a bit more forgiving in slow-speed situations than other muscle cars due to its tight turning radius, but it's best not to get INTO that situation if you don't have to. -Rev. V

[[Corghette]] - A dead sexy little racer - the Corghette is closest in handling to a tighter [[Vampire]] with one major difference. On rough terrain, it's entirely possible to get the Corghette stuck nose-and-tail on terrain, with none of its tires in contact with the ground. If it doesn't get stuck, it's a very responsive and deadly car, with 5 more bulk than the [[Vampire]]. Like the [[Vampire]], the Corghette shines with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Properly handled with an eye for terrain, the Corgy will serve you very well.

[[Category: Guides]]

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2012-02-18T22:45:58Z

Fifth: /* Sample Builds */

The muscle car is one of the true joys of Darkwind. Neither well armored nor well armed, its primary asset in the wilderness is its speed and maneuverability. Wilderness battles have been won against enormous odds because of one or two well-employed muscle cars.

Muscles are also indispensable for hunting Traders, because only muscle cars can chase down and corral fleeing cargo vehicles.

But muscle cars are terribly vulnerable when exchanging fire with the enemy, due to their light armor and weapon loads, and their high speed can be as much a vulnerability as an asset. The difference between a victorious muscle and a very fast coffin is forethought and planning.

This manual is broken into several sections. First I’ll go over what a muscle car is, and setting up your muscle, and I’ll go over different weapons. Then will be basic strategies and tactics, and I’ll close with the Chassis Appendix, going over the chassis one by one.

== Section 1: Setting Up ==

=== What Is (And Isn’t) A Muscle? ===

A muscle is a midsize car that can mount a big engine unexposed. The [[Windsor]] and [[Windsor II]] are not muscles. No car with an exposed engine should be considered a muscle, as they are too vulnerable to survive in a combat zone. Here’s a (partial) list of muscle chassis:

*[[Phoenix]]
*[[Sunrise]]
*[[Voyager]]
*[[Vampire]]
*[[Pike]]
*[[Bullet]]
*[[Buccaneer]]
*[[Roadrunner]]
*[[Moray]]
*[[Flail]]
*[[Osprey]]
*[[Stormer]]
*[[Flash]]
*[[Corghette]]

All of these, other than the Flash, can mount a 4L or larger engine unexposed. The Flash is included because of its sheer speed and ability to accept an engine disproportionately large for its size. I’ll go into each of these chassis in detail in the Chassis Appendix.

=== Components ===

'''Engine'''
In general, you want at least a 4L engine or a 3.2LV8. A full-sized muscle with a 3.2L engine isn’t a muscle at all, it’s a coffin. Some engines can handle a 5L, but keep an eye on the bulk used for weapons and ammo.

'''Armor'''
Max out your front, put 5 on your top and bottom, and distribute the rest evenly between your sides and rear. Class B - NEVER C. A-class armor is tempting and gives a nice speed boost, but is awfully expensive to keep repaired.

'''Fuel'''
A 2-unit tank is sufficient for most muscle operations. An extra unit or two on top of that can enable your muscle scouts to go further out and improve your odds.

'''Tyres'''
Offroad all the way. Handling is everything to a muscle. The exception to this is if you’re working in rough terrain, then you need Reinforced.

'''Crew'''
Driver and gunner. Putting in 2 gunners takes up too much valuable space. Your driver should have at least 20 skill, but 40 is really preferred. With more driving skill, you’ll accelerate faster and you’ll be more stable. Your gunner should have at least some Gunnery skill, but muscles are a good way to train gunners. Defensive Driver is a great specialism for muscle drivers, as is Deathracer.

'''Suspension'''
Suspension settings are different for every chassis and weapon load, but one thing is true across the board: increasing tyre pressure will give you increased acceleration at lower speeds, under about 40MPH, but you will lose some control at the top end. Increased tyre pressure is highly recommended for vehicles that spend time in lower-speed dogfights. Past that, experiment with your cars to find a suspension setting that fits your style.

'''Weapons'''
Front, front, front. You want your weapons on the FRONT. Side mounts are possible, but not generally recommended. Rear mounts sound good on paper, but they’re actually very difficult to use in practice.

Here’s your menu of killware:

[[Machine Gun]] - The vanilla option. Don’t knock it, a pair of these on the front of a muscle can really chew through enemy armor over the long run, and they have decent range and accuracy. The downside is, you need a pair to make a decent punch, and your driver will have to man one of them. Your accuracy with that gun will be lower.

[[Gatling Gun]] - The [[Machine Gun]] on steroids. The downside is, its range is shorter and you NEED two of them to make a decent punch, so your driver better have decent Gunnery skills. Watch out for the increased recoil - sustained fire can really slow you down.

[[Micromissile Launcher]] - Like the Machine Gun and Gatling Gun, the MML is small enough to be fitted in pairs, or mixed with a MG or GG. However, I don’t recommend doing so. Having an explosive round is useful in some cases, but there isn’t enough punch to outweigh the low ammunition capacity. Some chassis can accept a MML alongside a [[Medium Machine Gun]] as a driver-controlled secondary weapon, and this is an enormously effective build at short range.

[[Medium Machine Gun]] - My favorite muscle weapon. Decent damage, manageable recoil, good ammo supply, and low bulk. You will NOT have enough room for 2 of them, except on the larger cars, but that’s not a bad thing, you’ll be able to fit several reloads or a One-Shot secondary. Putting in just one gun lets your gunner concentrate on killing properly.

[[Heavy Machine Gun]] - One of the heaviest weapons available to muscles, the HMG should be deployed with care. Its recoil is hard enough to seriously affect your handling, and its 40 bulk will generally limit you to a single reload. On the other hand, its sheer power and ammo capacity can sometimes outweigh its bulk. Best deployed on the [[Phoenix]].

[[Rocket Launcher]] - The Rocket Launcher is a sledgehammer of muscle weapons. Peeling 3 or 4 off an enemy with a single hit is very tempting, to say the least. But the 10-round clip means you’ll be reloading mid-fight, and you generally will only have room for a single reload. Having only 20 rounds of fire means you have to hit Every. Single. Time. Also, the large blast radius can make a lot of problems for you in a tight, up-close fight. If you have a Rapid Reload gunner and lots of ammo space, go for it.

[[Heavy Gatling Gun]] - Rare and powerful, the HGG is better mounted on an SUV than a muscle. Its fierce recoil will throw you all over the place.

[[Car Rifle]] - The Sniper’s Best Friend, the Car Rifle is feared for good reason. But in the high-speed muscle fights, you will NOT have enough time to line up a proper shot, and the 15-round magazine means you’ll have less sustained fire. Use a Medium Machine Gun unless you have some very skilled Snipers.

[[Flamethrower]] - The Flamethrower is another weapon that looks better on paper than it does in combat. As long as you’re running like you’re on fire, why not set everyone else on fire too? But unless you like being quite literally on fire, avoid the Flamethrower. Its damage is not high enough to justify its short range and small clip size. Also, ANY damage to the FT will set you on fire. Avoid unless you are making a suicide/novelty car.

[[Napalm Gun]] - The Napalm Gun is perhaps the only ballistic weapon that can be remotely useful on a muscle car. It takes some planning ,especially given that the NG's bulk means that it may be the only weapon on a car, but being able to throw flaming oil into the path of the enemy can be invaluable, especially if you're Kiting.

One-Shots - I’m using this as a catchall for the [[Mini|Mini Rocket]], [[Light|Light Rocket]], [[Medium|Medium Rocket]], and [[Heavy|Heavy Rocket]] Rockets and their respective Racks and Pods. A One-Shot mounted next to your primary weapon can give a low-armor opponent a serious case of the breaches. Given that you’ll need to use your driver to man it and you only have a single shot with them, you need to time your shots carefully to hit an enemy’s weak side from close range. But a well-placed rocket can shorten a duel by several turns. My personal favorite is a toss-up between a [[Light Rocket Rack]] (3 shots, triple the fun!) and a single [[Heavy Rocket]]. (Make a Big Bang!)
As appealing as One-Shots are, NEVER compromise your primary firepower to fit in a bigger One-Shot. Your main weapon is your cake, your One-Shot is your icing.

=== Sample Builds ===

{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
! Name !! Chassis !! Engine !! CR !! Weapons !! Occupants !! Notes
|-
| [[Scimitar]]
| [[Phoenix]] or [[Sunrise]]
| 4L
| 124
| Fr [[GG]]x2
| 2
| An impressive but fragile dogfighter. Stay away from your enemies' weapons, and get the Gatling Guns onto their flanks and rear. The guns work best at close range, especially with low-skill gangers.
|-
| [[Chaser]]
| [[Phoenix]] or [[Sunrise]]
| 4L
| 104
| FR [[MMG]]
| 2 or 3
| This NPC Build has less firepower than the Scimitar, but offers much better ammo capacity and less recoil. The MMG will have a slightly better range than double [[Gatling]]s, and much better control. Add a driver-controlled One-Shot for extra firepower.
|-
| [[Hawk]]
| [[Vampire]]
| 3.2LV8
| 104
| FR [[MMG]] [[MRR]]
| 2
| Expensive but worth every penny. One of the most successful light dogfighters around, because it'll outrun whatever it can't outfight. Deploy in a pair for an instant hunting unit.
|-
| [[Eliminator]]
| [[Voyager]]
| 3.2L (V8 optional)
| 111
| FR 2X [[MG]] RE [[MG]]
| 2-3
| This NPC/Rental model serves as a great base for an interceptor and dogfighter. Low on firepower and fragile, but the Machine Guns give it better range and accuracy than the Scimitar.
|-
| [[Panther]]
| [[Bullet]]
| 4L
| 102
| FR [[MMG]] [[MRP]]
| 2
| An excellent trader-hunter with style and flair. Save the rockets for enemy breaches, and it'll do serious damage.
|-
|}

== Section 2: Let’s Talk Tactics ==

=== Strategy and Combat Roles ===

Muscle tactics fall into four general areas: '''Kiting, Strafing, Dueling''' and '''Chasing'''. Which one of these you perform depends a great deal on the situation of the rest of your scout, so LISTEN to your squadmates. Clear communication can make the difference between a successful scout and a disaster.

*'''Kiting''' - Kiting is distracting the AI opponents. Run fast around them, OUTSIDE of their Line of Fire, and see who peels off to chase you. You don’t need to get the whole group’s attention, and every enemy that’s chasing you is one less that’s firing on your buddies. If none of them chase you, you can start '''Strafing''' their stragglers. If you only pull one enemy, you have a good chance to '''Duel''' it into submission, but if you have more than one, keep running until the rest of your squad is done with their portion and ready to peel them off of you. Kiting can also put you into position to '''Strafe''' stragglers or '''Clip''' artillery wagons.

*'''Strafing''' - Strafing is, in essence, attacking a group of enemies at high speed. Get your speed up - between 60 and 80 is ideal - and pick your closest target. Take several turns to plan out your approach, and check your target’s weapon arcs carefully. A rear strike is ideal on a [[Mutant Marauder]], but not a good idea against a [[Poltergeist]]. NEVER aim straight in at your target, aim slightly to one side. Keep your speed up as you make your attack run, fire a few times, then move on to the next target. You don’t need to kill your target, just sting it. Then you can move onto the next target or break off and set up for another run.

Related to strafing is '''Clipping'''. AI cars with Grenade Launchers and Mortars can be deadly because they tend to hide behind their consorts while showering a squad with high-explosive rain. But a muscle car or two can sometimes loop behind the consorts and knock out or distract an artillery vehicle. Even if the artillery is only distracted, you've bought your teammates a moment of respite from the falling shells.

Clipping an artillery car is risky, but can be done with enough speed. Drop your speed to 40 as you start firing, concentrate your fire on one armor facing, and get your teeth in. If the target or another car seems to be turning for you, accelerate out of danger, rinse, and repeat until your target is dead.

*'''Dueling''' - This is the opposite of Strafing. You’re getting in, going in for the kill, doing it for the thrill. As the name suggests, you’re going for a single opponent, and you’re not giving up until they’re dead in the desert.

First, know your opponent. Know exactly what weapons it has, know his firing arcs, and figure out how to get your teeth into him without getting bitten. In almost every duel, you WILL be outgunned, use your maneuverability to stay out of his fire zones. Taking some fire is all right, but spread it out among your sides, but focus your fire on one or two of his facets. Watch your ammunition level, and leave your opponent lamed and burning.

*'''Chasing''' - During trader hunts, this is where the muscle shows its true strengths. While your heavier allies are hammering the cargo escorts into scrap, your job is simple: keep the cargo from getting away.

Communicate with other chasers, make sure all of the runners are covered and none get to 350 meters.

Runners are fairly dumb AIs, they run away from the closest player. You can use this to your advantage if you can get one muscle in front of the pack, they’ll turn back toward your heavies or scatter into rough terrain. Most runners have heavy rear guns, so don’t get too close. With enough carnage among the escorts, traders will demoralize, but to maximize salvage, it’s a good idea to start shooting at traders when the escort is mostly demoralized. This increases the runners’ stress level and brings them closer to demoralizing. You DON’T want to actually breach them unless you’re in serious danger, but stressing them can shorten the scout by several turns.

Of all the cargo vehicles, [[Trade Runner]]s are the sole exception - you want to kill them, or at least silence their guns. They very rarely carry good cargo, and their heavy artillery can be lethal to chasers. The best tactic for bringing a Trade Runner down is to use two cars to go at its flanks and front and kill its engine. If you can't spare a second car, use terrain to shield yourself from its guns until you can get beside it. Get your teeth into its flank, and don't let go.

'''All-Muscle Squads'''

For an all-muscle squad, forming a line like a conventional scout squad is a recipe for suicide. I've found that the best strategy revolves around breaking your force into units of 2 or 3 cars each, and each attack group picks a target to duel. Running for a time is a good way to break an opposing force up, and then the attack groups can turn on individual enemies. Go in fast and hard, and kill the enemy as fast as possible.

=== Turn By Turn ===

Once the bullets start flying, fighting with a muscle becomes brutally simple: stay out of your enemy’s fire zones and keep your guns on your opponent. Have a working knowledge of the basic Somerset [[NPC Vehicles|NPC designs]] and what gun is on which facing. While avoiding fire is always a must, especially avoid rocket launchers, HMGs, and MMLs - the kinetic impact can badly affect your handling. Pick a target facing and pour your fire into it.

Knowing your car is especially important for muscle drivers. For your first couple outings with a chassis you’re not familiar with, take it out with a group on relatively low-risk scouts until you’re used to the handling. Alternately, load it into DW: Tactical and take it through some paces, get used to how it handles on sand and rock and asphalt.

'''The Slope Turn'''

Use terrain wisely. If you need to turn around quickly, you can climb up a slope and use it to shave a turn or two off your turning time. when front wheels are on the slope, turn your steering wheel all the way and keep it there until your front is below your back, and then start countersteering out. Be careful, as this can expose your top armor, but it's a useful trick.

'''Tactical Kiting'''

This is fancy verbiage for using your buddies as bait. Keep an eye on all your buddies - enemies who are going for your wingman can be vulnerable themselves to a sustained side or rear attack. And if an enemy is on your tail, you may be able to lure it into your allies' loving embrace, if you don't mind losing some armor in the doing.

'''A Note On The Handbrake'''

Used properly and sparingly, the handbrake can be the best medicine for a tight situation. But like all remedies, it's best used in moderation.

When you're moving at high speed in a tight turn, the handbrake can sometimes enable you to turn 180 or 270 degrees in a single turn, at the cost of a fair chunk of your speed. This can be very useful at the end of an attack run, but losing that much of your speed can be lethal. Use with caution.

== Chassis Appendix ==

[[Phoenix]] - The venerable Phoenix is probably your first muscle car, as it’s the most common in [[Somerset]], and even as you move onto better muscles, Phoenixes remain the best option for training drivers, because replacements can always be found. I’ve found them generally forgiving of newbie driving mistakes. Like all muscles, they have a tendency to drift and tend to lose armor to terrain.

[[Sunrise]] - The [[Phoenix]]’s twin. The [[Sunrise]] and [[Phoenix]] are identical in the garage, with identical armor, engine, and bulk characteristics. But out in the wild, the Sunrise is quite different from its sibling. The Sunrise tends to handle differently, softer and with a pronounced drift. After turning at high speed, it’s not uncommon to drift on your original course for several turns. The Sunrise demands planning four or five turns ahead. For all its faults, the [[Sunrise]] is marginally faster than the Phoenix and tends to lose less armor to terrain.

[[Voyager]] - The Voyager's a controversial muscle, sitting where it does right on the border between the the muscles and sedans, but with a 3.2L engine and light weapons, it's a joy to drive. A bit slippery offroad, it boasts a very tight turning radius and the largest killware space of any of the common muscles, but beware its lighter armor. One good setup uses twin [[Machine Gun]]s or [[Gatling Gun]]s to make a versatile interceptor with room for lots of spare ammo or a second gunner to carry home the loot. Drop the tire pressure and increase the length and stiffness a few points, and use it for hit and run attacks. For extra firepower, try a [[Rocket Launcher]]/[[Gatling Gun]] or a [[Micromissile Launcher]]/[[Medium Machine Gun]].

[[Vampire]] - It’s easy to see the rental [[Desert Striker]] as representative of the Vampire, even to take it for a spin, but the rental’s Standard Tyres cripple the Striker’s beautiful possibilities, and lead many to underestimate this beautiful interceptor. The Vampire drives like a [[Phoenix]] on steroids, but the increased responsiveness comes at the cost of 10 bulk. The [[Desert Striker]] build is almost overgunned, because with the [[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]], you don’t have room for a single reload with a gunner. Switching the HMG for an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], you make one of the best combat cars in Evan, because then you can fit in a gunner, a reload and a [[Light Rocket]]. This build is one I’ve used to solo-kill [[Poltergeist|Poltergeists]] and [[Mutant Bomber|Mutant Bombers]], and once scored three kills in a single scout. The Vampire truly shines with a 3.2 v8 under the hood, which lets you fit in a [[Medium Rocket Rack]].
On the other hand, the Vampire seems to be a bit more fragile than the [[Phoenix]], so use it with care.

[[Bullet]] - It’s easy to dismiss the Bullet as a Redneck Racer, since it is a Ford Fusion, the NASCAR car. But I’ve found the Bullet to be a surprisingly flexible hunter on the battlefield. It’s a fair sight faster than either the [[Phoenix]] or the [[Sunrise]], and very maneuverable. With a good driver, I feel like my Bullet is reading my mind, like it’ll do precisely what I ask it to, with a minimum of drifting. Low bulk is certainly an issue, but with a [[Medium Machine Gun]] and a [[Mini Rocket Pod]] or a [[Light Rocket]], the Bullet is a nasty little predator. Like the [[Vampire]], the Bullet truly shines with a V8 under the hood, which frees up space for more ammo or weaponry.

[[Buccaneer]] - The Bucky is one of the larger muscle cars, but it also has a slightly lower armor value. On the other hand, being able to fit a 5L engine, a MMG, and a gunner in makes it SPEEDY. Or you can fit in a 4L and free up 20 bulk for reloads, One-Shots, or even a secondary Gatling for your driver. I’ve seen a few people mount an [[Anti-Tank Gun]] in a Buccaneer, but that takes it out of the Muscle category and places it into a Sedan class, tactically, because there is NO WAY you can maintain speed and control while firing an ATG.

[[Flash]] - The Mini Muscle. With a 2L engine, it’s almost as fast as a 4L Phoenix, and it is so light and fast that it’s a joy to drive. The downside is, you have paper armor, not much of it, and you will have 40 bulk with a gunner. That’s enough for a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], a reload, and a Light Rocket. I wouldn’t recommend mounting anything heavier than a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] on this chassis, it’s very susceptible to recoil, and extremely fragile.

[[Pike]] - The [[Pike]] is the [[Sunrise]]’s bigger, nastier brother. If you think a Sunrise is too bouncy, walk straight past this baby. Fire 1 shot from a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] and watch this thing bounce for 4 turns. Sitting still and getting shot will leave you bouncing wildly and struggling for traction and any ability of escape. Even under MML or MG fire you may find yourself stuck for 4-5 seconds hoping it doesn't roll. All that said, it drives over the rough stuff real well (with care) and is fast. Takes some time to get used to the handling (ghost)and tends to understeer heaps into a corner (especially if you fill its huge engine bay with motor) and oversteer once it does start to turn. Once you do get used to this though and drive accordingly, shes a dream to drive and low speed maneuverability is amazing. Reasonable armour. - Bastiel

[[Flail]] - The [[Flail]] has almost sedan-like bulk available and heavy armor. Well, it's more like driving a mini SUV than a musclecar depending on how you arm it, but for a musclecar, boy does it have a lot of armor and almost as much capacity as the [[Osprey]] - FireFly

I've found the Flail a very versatile car if used properly. It's easy to look at all that bulk and armor and think of it as a 'win button.' It isn't. Make a wrong move in the Flail, and you'll be lucky to live to regret it. With a 4L under the hood, its acceleration is substandard, and it really needs a 5L or better for optimal performance. Its maneuvering isn't bad, but like a lot of sedans, its best maneuvering happens under 30 MPH. Use it like a Phoenix or sunrise, and your Flail will die. Use it as a heavy support car to back up your lighter muscles, and it will serve you very well.

The [[Flail]] also has a wide turning radius that should be accounted for. With a 3.2Lv8 and a HCR or Laser it makes a good sniper. - Tango

[[Osprey]] - It has decent handling, not the best, but there are worse. The main issue is that if you get locked into a slide, it can take some turns to get back to moving straight. The main strength lies in it's huge capacity, with a crew of 2 and a 3.2lv8, you still have room for 110 bulk worth of weapons, for example, a [[Heavy Car Rifle|HCR]]/[[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]] combo works surprisingly well, but the real fun with that is that it's the most heavily armed musclecar around, and kicks the living snot out of other muscles, if you can handle the weight... - FireFly

[[Roadrunner]] - It handles like a heavy Phoenix. It has the chassis strength of a [[Chomper]]. With the addition of a HUGE motor capacity, this car might fly if not for the downforce supplied by the extraordinarily large rear wing.

It is VERY rare to find one of these beautiful cars. You might not want to risk it ANYWHERE once you do find it.
If you do find one, you`ll be pleasantly surprised at it`s armor capacity and bulk available. - JD Basher

[[Moray]] - No middle ground really, people seem to either love them or hate them. Morays are a bit pricey for something with less armour than a [[Phoenix|Pho,]] but they will take a 5LV8 unexposed, making them a speedy travel car.
They do VERY well with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Like the [[Sunrise]], they can be a bit drifty at high speeds, do not expect radical changes in direction, and this chassis can be quite unforgiving if you oversteer, though they rarely turtle.
There is, however, definitely a learning curve to overcome when using this chassis.
Expect to spin out and lose all of your momentum if you expect too much.

At slower speeds, such as when the dogfight has gone to hell, you can get a 90 degree turn out of this car, easily, assuming you have no major recoil happening from weapons fire, and a good bit more if you like using the handbrake. You can stay inside the turning arc of most NPC vehicles with ease, chewing away at them the whole time. As with all muscle cars, recoil can be an issue with heavier weapons.
Personally, after a good bit of trial and error, I have found that an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Machine Gun|MG]] combo works very well. An [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Micromissile Launcher|MMLs]] combo is effective as well, but one must keep in mind the ammo limitations [[Micromissile Launcher|MML]] have.
As with any muscle car, DON'T STOP unless it's going to give you a BIG tactical advantage.
The [[Moray]] can be a bit more forgiving in slow speed situations than other muscle cars due to it's tight turning radius, but it's best not to get INTO that situation if you don't have to. -Rev. V

[[Corghette]] - A dead sexy little racer - the Corghette is closest in handling to a tighter [[Vampire]] with one major difference. On rough terrain, it's entirely possible to get the Corghette stuck nose-and-tail on terrain, with none of its tires in contact with the ground. If it doesn't get stuck, it's a very responsive and deadly car, with 5 more bulk than the [[Vampire]]. Like the [[Vampire]], the Corghette shines with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Properly handled with an eye for terrain, the Corgy will serve you very well.

[[Category: Guides]]

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2012-02-18T22:32:52Z

Fifth: /* Sample Builds */

The muscle car is one of the true joys of Darkwind. Neither well armored nor well armed, its primary asset in the wilderness is its speed and maneuverability. Wilderness battles have been won against enormous odds because of one or two well-employed muscle cars.

Muscles are also indispensable for hunting Traders, because only muscle cars can chase down and corral fleeing cargo vehicles.

But muscle cars are terribly vulnerable when exchanging fire with the enemy, due to their light armor and weapon loads, and their high speed can be as much a vulnerability as an asset. The difference between a victorious muscle and a very fast coffin is forethought and planning.

This manual is broken into several sections. First I’ll go over what a muscle car is, and setting up your muscle, and I’ll go over different weapons. Then will be basic strategies and tactics, and I’ll close with the Chassis Appendix, going over the chassis one by one.

== Section 1: Setting Up ==

=== What Is (And Isn’t) A Muscle? ===

A muscle is a midsize car that can mount a big engine unexposed. The [[Windsor]] and [[Windsor II]] are not muscles. No car with an exposed engine should be considered a muscle, as they are too vulnerable to survive in a combat zone. Here’s a (partial) list of muscle chassis:

*[[Phoenix]]
*[[Sunrise]]
*[[Voyager]]
*[[Vampire]]
*[[Pike]]
*[[Bullet]]
*[[Buccaneer]]
*[[Roadrunner]]
*[[Moray]]
*[[Flail]]
*[[Osprey]]
*[[Stormer]]
*[[Flash]]
*[[Corghette]]

All of these, other than the Flash, can mount a 4L or larger engine unexposed. The Flash is included because of its sheer speed and ability to accept an engine disproportionately large for its size. I’ll go into each of these chassis in detail in the Chassis Appendix.

=== Components ===

'''Engine'''
In general, you want at least a 4L engine or a 3.2LV8. A full-sized muscle with a 3.2L engine isn’t a muscle at all, it’s a coffin. Some engines can handle a 5L, but keep an eye on the bulk used for weapons and ammo.

'''Armor'''
Max out your front, put 5 on your top and bottom, and distribute the rest evenly between your sides and rear. Class B - NEVER C. A-class armor is tempting and gives a nice speed boost, but is awfully expensive to keep repaired.

'''Fuel'''
A 2-unit tank is sufficient for most muscle operations. An extra unit or two on top of that can enable your muscle scouts to go further out and improve your odds.

'''Tyres'''
Offroad all the way. Handling is everything to a muscle. The exception to this is if you’re working in rough terrain, then you need Reinforced.

'''Crew'''
Driver and gunner. Putting in 2 gunners takes up too much valuable space. Your driver should have at least 20 skill, but 40 is really preferred. With more driving skill, you’ll accelerate faster and you’ll be more stable. Your gunner should have at least some Gunnery skill, but muscles are a good way to train gunners. Defensive Driver is a great specialism for muscle drivers, as is Deathracer.

'''Suspension'''
Suspension settings are different for every chassis and weapon load, but one thing is true across the board: increasing tyre pressure will give you increased acceleration at lower speeds, under about 40MPH, but you will lose some control at the top end. Increased tyre pressure is highly recommended for vehicles that spend time in lower-speed dogfights. Past that, experiment with your cars to find a suspension setting that fits your style.

'''Weapons'''
Front, front, front. You want your weapons on the FRONT. Side mounts are possible, but not generally recommended. Rear mounts sound good on paper, but they’re actually very difficult to use in practice.

Here’s your menu of killware:

[[Machine Gun]] - The vanilla option. Don’t knock it, a pair of these on the front of a muscle can really chew through enemy armor over the long run, and they have decent range and accuracy. The downside is, you need a pair to make a decent punch, and your driver will have to man one of them. Your accuracy with that gun will be lower.

[[Gatling Gun]] - The [[Machine Gun]] on steroids. The downside is, its range is shorter and you NEED two of them to make a decent punch, so your driver better have decent Gunnery skills. Watch out for the increased recoil - sustained fire can really slow you down.

[[Micromissile Launcher]] - Like the Machine Gun and Gatling Gun, the MML is small enough to be fitted in pairs, or mixed with a MG or GG. However, I don’t recommend doing so. Having an explosive round is useful in some cases, but there isn’t enough punch to outweigh the low ammunition capacity. Some chassis can accept a MML alongside a [[Medium Machine Gun]] as a driver-controlled secondary weapon, and this is an enormously effective build at short range.

[[Medium Machine Gun]] - My favorite muscle weapon. Decent damage, manageable recoil, good ammo supply, and low bulk. You will NOT have enough room for 2 of them, except on the larger cars, but that’s not a bad thing, you’ll be able to fit several reloads or a One-Shot secondary. Putting in just one gun lets your gunner concentrate on killing properly.

[[Heavy Machine Gun]] - One of the heaviest weapons available to muscles, the HMG should be deployed with care. Its recoil is hard enough to seriously affect your handling, and its 40 bulk will generally limit you to a single reload. On the other hand, its sheer power and ammo capacity can sometimes outweigh its bulk. Best deployed on the [[Phoenix]].

[[Rocket Launcher]] - The Rocket Launcher is a sledgehammer of muscle weapons. Peeling 3 or 4 off an enemy with a single hit is very tempting, to say the least. But the 10-round clip means you’ll be reloading mid-fight, and you generally will only have room for a single reload. Having only 20 rounds of fire means you have to hit Every. Single. Time. Also, the large blast radius can make a lot of problems for you in a tight, up-close fight. If you have a Rapid Reload gunner and lots of ammo space, go for it.

[[Heavy Gatling Gun]] - Rare and powerful, the HGG is better mounted on an SUV than a muscle. Its fierce recoil will throw you all over the place.

[[Car Rifle]] - The Sniper’s Best Friend, the Car Rifle is feared for good reason. But in the high-speed muscle fights, you will NOT have enough time to line up a proper shot, and the 15-round magazine means you’ll have less sustained fire. Use a Medium Machine Gun unless you have some very skilled Snipers.

[[Flamethrower]] - The Flamethrower is another weapon that looks better on paper than it does in combat. As long as you’re running like you’re on fire, why not set everyone else on fire too? But unless you like being quite literally on fire, avoid the Flamethrower. Its damage is not high enough to justify its short range and small clip size. Also, ANY damage to the FT will set you on fire. Avoid unless you are making a suicide/novelty car.

[[Napalm Gun]] - The Napalm Gun is perhaps the only ballistic weapon that can be remotely useful on a muscle car. It takes some planning ,especially given that the NG's bulk means that it may be the only weapon on a car, but being able to throw flaming oil into the path of the enemy can be invaluable, especially if you're Kiting.

One-Shots - I’m using this as a catchall for the [[Mini|Mini Rocket]], [[Light|Light Rocket]], [[Medium|Medium Rocket]], and [[Heavy|Heavy Rocket]] Rockets and their respective Racks and Pods. A One-Shot mounted next to your primary weapon can give a low-armor opponent a serious case of the breaches. Given that you’ll need to use your driver to man it and you only have a single shot with them, you need to time your shots carefully to hit an enemy’s weak side from close range. But a well-placed rocket can shorten a duel by several turns. My personal favorite is a toss-up between a [[Light Rocket Rack]] (3 shots, triple the fun!) and a single [[Heavy Rocket]]. (Make a Big Bang!)
As appealing as One-Shots are, NEVER compromise your primary firepower to fit in a bigger One-Shot. Your main weapon is your cake, your One-Shot is your icing.

=== Sample Builds ===

{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
! Name !! Chassis !! Engine !! CR !! Weapons !! Occupants !! Notes
|-
| [[Scimitar]]
| [[Phoenix]] or [[Sunrise]]
| 4L
| 124
| Fr [[GG]]x2
| 2
| An impressive but fragile dogfighter. Stay away from your enemies' weapons, and get the Gatling Guns onto their flanks and rear. The guns work best at close range, especially with low-skill gangers.
|-
| [[Chaser]]
| [[Phoenix]] or [[Sunrise]]
| 4L
| 104
| FR [[MMG]]
| 2 or 3
| This NPC Build has less firepower than the Scimitar, but offers much better ammo capacity and less recoil. The MMG will have a slightly better range than double [[Gatling]]s, and much better control. Add a driver-controlled One-Shot for extra firepower.
|-
| [[Hawk]]
| [[Vampire]]
| 3.2LV8
| 104
| FR [[MMG]] [[MRR]]
| 2
| Expensive but worth every penny. One of the most successful light dogfighters around, because it'll outrun whatever it can't outfight. Deploy in a pair for an instant hunting unit.
|-
| [[Eliminator]]
| [[Voyager]]
| 3.2L
| 111
| FR 2X [[MG]] RE [[MG]]
| 2-3
| This NPC/Rental model serves as a great base for an interceptor and dogfighter. Low on firepower and fragile, but the Machine Guns give it better range and accuracy than the Scimitar.
|-
| [[Panther]]
| [[Bullet]]
| 4L
| 102
| FR [[MMG]] [[MRP]]
| 2
| An excellent trader-hunter with style and flair. Save the rockets for enemy breaches, and it'll do serious damage.
|-
|}

== Section 2: Let’s Talk Tactics ==

=== Strategy and Combat Roles ===

Muscle tactics fall into four general areas: '''Kiting, Strafing, Dueling''' and '''Chasing'''. Which one of these you perform depends a great deal on the situation of the rest of your scout, so LISTEN to your squadmates. Clear communication can make the difference between a successful scout and a disaster.

*'''Kiting''' - Kiting is distracting the AI opponents. Run fast around them, OUTSIDE of their Line of Fire, and see who peels off to chase you. You don’t need to get the whole group’s attention, and every enemy that’s chasing you is one less that’s firing on your buddies. If none of them chase you, you can start '''Strafing''' their stragglers. If you only pull one enemy, you have a good chance to '''Duel''' it into submission, but if you have more than one, keep running until the rest of your squad is done with their portion and ready to peel them off of you. Kiting can also put you into position to '''Strafe''' stragglers or '''Clip''' artillery wagons.

*'''Strafing''' - Strafing is, in essence, attacking a group of enemies at high speed. Get your speed up - between 60 and 80 is ideal - and pick your closest target. Take several turns to plan out your approach, and check your target’s weapon arcs carefully. A rear strike is ideal on a [[Mutant Marauder]], but not a good idea against a [[Poltergeist]]. NEVER aim straight in at your target, aim slightly to one side. Keep your speed up as you make your attack run, fire a few times, then move on to the next target. You don’t need to kill your target, just sting it. Then you can move onto the next target or break off and set up for another run.

Related to strafing is '''Clipping'''. AI cars with Grenade Launchers and Mortars can be deadly because they tend to hide behind their consorts while showering a squad with high-explosive rain. But a muscle car or two can sometimes loop behind the consorts and knock out or distract an artillery vehicle. Even if the artillery is only distracted, you've bought your teammates a moment of respite from the falling shells.

Clipping an artillery car is risky, but can be done with enough speed. Drop your speed to 40 as you start firing, concentrate your fire on one armor facing, and get your teeth in. If the target or another car seems to be turning for you, accelerate out of danger, rinse, and repeat until your target is dead.

*'''Dueling''' - This is the opposite of Strafing. You’re getting in, going in for the kill, doing it for the thrill. As the name suggests, you’re going for a single opponent, and you’re not giving up until they’re dead in the desert.

First, know your opponent. Know exactly what weapons it has, know his firing arcs, and figure out how to get your teeth into him without getting bitten. In almost every duel, you WILL be outgunned, use your maneuverability to stay out of his fire zones. Taking some fire is all right, but spread it out among your sides, but focus your fire on one or two of his facets. Watch your ammunition level, and leave your opponent lamed and burning.

*'''Chasing''' - During trader hunts, this is where the muscle shows its true strengths. While your heavier allies are hammering the cargo escorts into scrap, your job is simple: keep the cargo from getting away.

Communicate with other chasers, make sure all of the runners are covered and none get to 350 meters.

Runners are fairly dumb AIs, they run away from the closest player. You can use this to your advantage if you can get one muscle in front of the pack, they’ll turn back toward your heavies or scatter into rough terrain. Most runners have heavy rear guns, so don’t get too close. With enough carnage among the escorts, traders will demoralize, but to maximize salvage, it’s a good idea to start shooting at traders when the escort is mostly demoralized. This increases the runners’ stress level and brings them closer to demoralizing. You DON’T want to actually breach them unless you’re in serious danger, but stressing them can shorten the scout by several turns.

Of all the cargo vehicles, [[Trade Runner]]s are the sole exception - you want to kill them, or at least silence their guns. They very rarely carry good cargo, and their heavy artillery can be lethal to chasers. The best tactic for bringing a Trade Runner down is to use two cars to go at its flanks and front and kill its engine. If you can't spare a second car, use terrain to shield yourself from its guns until you can get beside it. Get your teeth into its flank, and don't let go.

'''All-Muscle Squads'''

For an all-muscle squad, forming a line like a conventional scout squad is a recipe for suicide. I've found that the best strategy revolves around breaking your force into units of 2 or 3 cars each, and each attack group picks a target to duel. Running for a time is a good way to break an opposing force up, and then the attack groups can turn on individual enemies. Go in fast and hard, and kill the enemy as fast as possible.

=== Turn By Turn ===

Once the bullets start flying, fighting with a muscle becomes brutally simple: stay out of your enemy’s fire zones and keep your guns on your opponent. Have a working knowledge of the basic Somerset [[NPC Vehicles|NPC designs]] and what gun is on which facing. While avoiding fire is always a must, especially avoid rocket launchers, HMGs, and MMLs - the kinetic impact can badly affect your handling. Pick a target facing and pour your fire into it.

Knowing your car is especially important for muscle drivers. For your first couple outings with a chassis you’re not familiar with, take it out with a group on relatively low-risk scouts until you’re used to the handling. Alternately, load it into DW: Tactical and take it through some paces, get used to how it handles on sand and rock and asphalt.

'''The Slope Turn'''

Use terrain wisely. If you need to turn around quickly, you can climb up a slope and use it to shave a turn or two off your turning time. when front wheels are on the slope, turn your steering wheel all the way and keep it there until your front is below your back, and then start countersteering out. Be careful, as this can expose your top armor, but it's a useful trick.

'''Tactical Kiting'''

This is fancy verbiage for using your buddies as bait. Keep an eye on all your buddies - enemies who are going for your wingman can be vulnerable themselves to a sustained side or rear attack. And if an enemy is on your tail, you may be able to lure it into your allies' loving embrace, if you don't mind losing some armor in the doing.

'''A Note On The Handbrake'''

Used properly and sparingly, the handbrake can be the best medicine for a tight situation. But like all remedies, it's best used in moderation.

When you're moving at high speed in a tight turn, the handbrake can sometimes enable you to turn 180 or 270 degrees in a single turn, at the cost of a fair chunk of your speed. This can be very useful at the end of an attack run, but losing that much of your speed can be lethal. Use with caution.

== Chassis Appendix ==

[[Phoenix]] - The venerable Phoenix is probably your first muscle car, as it’s the most common in [[Somerset]], and even as you move onto better muscles, Phoenixes remain the best option for training drivers, because replacements can always be found. I’ve found them generally forgiving of newbie driving mistakes. Like all muscles, they have a tendency to drift and tend to lose armor to terrain.

[[Sunrise]] - The [[Phoenix]]’s twin. The [[Sunrise]] and [[Phoenix]] are identical in the garage, with identical armor, engine, and bulk characteristics. But out in the wild, the Sunrise is quite different from its sibling. The Sunrise tends to handle differently, softer and with a pronounced drift. After turning at high speed, it’s not uncommon to drift on your original course for several turns. The Sunrise demands planning four or five turns ahead. For all its faults, the [[Sunrise]] is marginally faster than the Phoenix and tends to lose less armor to terrain.

[[Voyager]] - The Voyager's a controversial muscle, sitting where it does right on the border between the the muscles and sedans, but with a 3.2L engine and light weapons, it's a joy to drive. A bit slippery offroad, it boasts a very tight turning radius and the largest killware space of any of the common muscles, but beware its lighter armor. One good setup uses twin [[Machine Gun]]s or [[Gatling Gun]]s to make a versatile interceptor with room for lots of spare ammo or a second gunner to carry home the loot. Drop the tire pressure and increase the length and stiffness a few points, and use it for hit and run attacks. For extra firepower, try a [[Rocket Launcher]]/[[Gatling Gun]] or a [[Micromissile Launcher]]/[[Medium Machine Gun]].

[[Vampire]] - It’s easy to see the rental [[Desert Striker]] as representative of the Vampire, even to take it for a spin, but the rental’s Standard Tyres cripple the Striker’s beautiful possibilities, and lead many to underestimate this beautiful interceptor. The Vampire drives like a [[Phoenix]] on steroids, but the increased responsiveness comes at the cost of 10 bulk. The [[Desert Striker]] build is almost overgunned, because with the [[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]], you don’t have room for a single reload with a gunner. Switching the HMG for an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], you make one of the best combat cars in Evan, because then you can fit in a gunner, a reload and a [[Light Rocket]]. This build is one I’ve used to solo-kill [[Poltergeist|Poltergeists]] and [[Mutant Bomber|Mutant Bombers]], and once scored three kills in a single scout. The Vampire truly shines with a 3.2 v8 under the hood, which lets you fit in a [[Medium Rocket Rack]].
On the other hand, the Vampire seems to be a bit more fragile than the [[Phoenix]], so use it with care.

[[Bullet]] - It’s easy to dismiss the Bullet as a Redneck Racer, since it is a Ford Fusion, the NASCAR car. But I’ve found the Bullet to be a surprisingly flexible hunter on the battlefield. It’s a fair sight faster than either the [[Phoenix]] or the [[Sunrise]], and very maneuverable. With a good driver, I feel like my Bullet is reading my mind, like it’ll do precisely what I ask it to, with a minimum of drifting. Low bulk is certainly an issue, but with a [[Medium Machine Gun]] and a [[Mini Rocket Pod]] or a [[Light Rocket]], the Bullet is a nasty little predator. Like the [[Vampire]], the Bullet truly shines with a V8 under the hood, which frees up space for more ammo or weaponry.

[[Buccaneer]] - The Bucky is one of the larger muscle cars, but it also has a slightly lower armor value. On the other hand, being able to fit a 5L engine, a MMG, and a gunner in makes it SPEEDY. Or you can fit in a 4L and free up 20 bulk for reloads, One-Shots, or even a secondary Gatling for your driver. I’ve seen a few people mount an [[Anti-Tank Gun]] in a Buccaneer, but that takes it out of the Muscle category and places it into a Sedan class, tactically, because there is NO WAY you can maintain speed and control while firing an ATG.

[[Flash]] - The Mini Muscle. With a 2L engine, it’s almost as fast as a 4L Phoenix, and it is so light and fast that it’s a joy to drive. The downside is, you have paper armor, not much of it, and you will have 40 bulk with a gunner. That’s enough for a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], a reload, and a Light Rocket. I wouldn’t recommend mounting anything heavier than a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] on this chassis, it’s very susceptible to recoil, and extremely fragile.

[[Pike]] - The [[Pike]] is the [[Sunrise]]’s bigger, nastier brother. If you think a Sunrise is too bouncy, walk straight past this baby. Fire 1 shot from a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] and watch this thing bounce for 4 turns. Sitting still and getting shot will leave you bouncing wildly and struggling for traction and any ability of escape. Even under MML or MG fire you may find yourself stuck for 4-5 seconds hoping it doesn't roll. All that said, it drives over the rough stuff real well (with care) and is fast. Takes some time to get used to the handling (ghost)and tends to understeer heaps into a corner (especially if you fill its huge engine bay with motor) and oversteer once it does start to turn. Once you do get used to this though and drive accordingly, shes a dream to drive and low speed maneuverability is amazing. Reasonable armour. - Bastiel

[[Flail]] - The [[Flail]] has almost sedan-like bulk available and heavy armor. Well, it's more like driving a mini SUV than a musclecar depending on how you arm it, but for a musclecar, boy does it have a lot of armor and almost as much capacity as the [[Osprey]] - FireFly

I've found the Flail a very versatile car if used properly. It's easy to look at all that bulk and armor and think of it as a 'win button.' It isn't. Make a wrong move in the Flail, and you'll be lucky to live to regret it. With a 4L under the hood, its acceleration is substandard, and it really needs a 5L or better for optimal performance. Its maneuvering isn't bad, but like a lot of sedans, its best maneuvering happens under 30 MPH. Use it like a Phoenix or sunrise, and your Flail will die. Use it as a heavy support car to back up your lighter muscles, and it will serve you very well.

The [[Flail]] also has a wide turning radius that should be accounted for. With a 3.2Lv8 and a HCR or Laser it makes a good sniper. - Tango

[[Osprey]] - It has decent handling, not the best, but there are worse. The main issue is that if you get locked into a slide, it can take some turns to get back to moving straight. The main strength lies in it's huge capacity, with a crew of 2 and a 3.2lv8, you still have room for 110 bulk worth of weapons, for example, a [[Heavy Car Rifle|HCR]]/[[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]] combo works surprisingly well, but the real fun with that is that it's the most heavily armed musclecar around, and kicks the living snot out of other muscles, if you can handle the weight... - FireFly

[[Roadrunner]] - It handles like a heavy Phoenix. It has the chassis strength of a [[Chomper]]. With the addition of a HUGE motor capacity, this car might fly if not for the downforce supplied by the extraordinarily large rear wing.

It is VERY rare to find one of these beautiful cars. You might not want to risk it ANYWHERE once you do find it.
If you do find one, you`ll be pleasantly surprised at it`s armor capacity and bulk available. - JD Basher

[[Moray]] - No middle ground really, people seem to either love them or hate them. Morays are a bit pricey for something with less armour than a [[Phoenix|Pho,]] but they will take a 5LV8 unexposed, making them a speedy travel car.
They do VERY well with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Like the [[Sunrise]], they can be a bit drifty at high speeds, do not expect radical changes in direction, and this chassis can be quite unforgiving if you oversteer, though they rarely turtle.
There is, however, definitely a learning curve to overcome when using this chassis.
Expect to spin out and lose all of your momentum if you expect too much.

At slower speeds, such as when the dogfight has gone to hell, you can get a 90 degree turn out of this car, easily, assuming you have no major recoil happening from weapons fire, and a good bit more if you like using the handbrake. You can stay inside the turning arc of most NPC vehicles with ease, chewing away at them the whole time. As with all muscle cars, recoil can be an issue with heavier weapons.
Personally, after a good bit of trial and error, I have found that an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Machine Gun|MG]] combo works very well. An [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Micromissile Launcher|MMLs]] combo is effective as well, but one must keep in mind the ammo limitations [[Micromissile Launcher|MML]] have.
As with any muscle car, DON'T STOP unless it's going to give you a BIG tactical advantage.
The [[Moray]] can be a bit more forgiving in slow speed situations than other muscle cars due to it's tight turning radius, but it's best not to get INTO that situation if you don't have to. -Rev. V

[[Corghette]] - A dead sexy little racer - the Corghette is closest in handling to a tighter [[Vampire]] with one major difference. On rough terrain, it's entirely possible to get the Corghette stuck nose-and-tail on terrain, with none of its tires in contact with the ground. If it doesn't get stuck, it's a very responsive and deadly car, with 5 more bulk than the [[Vampire]]. Like the [[Vampire]], the Corghette shines with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Properly handled with an eye for terrain, the Corgy will serve you very well.

[[Category: Guides]]

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2012-02-18T22:31:45Z

Fifth: /* Section 1: Setting Up */ - Added Sample Build Table

The muscle car is one of the true joys of Darkwind. Neither well armored nor well armed, its primary asset in the wilderness is its speed and maneuverability. Wilderness battles have been won against enormous odds because of one or two well-employed muscle cars.

Muscles are also indispensable for hunting Traders, because only muscle cars can chase down and corral fleeing cargo vehicles.

But muscle cars are terribly vulnerable when exchanging fire with the enemy, due to their light armor and weapon loads, and their high speed can be as much a vulnerability as an asset. The difference between a victorious muscle and a very fast coffin is forethought and planning.

This manual is broken into several sections. First I’ll go over what a muscle car is, and setting up your muscle, and I’ll go over different weapons. Then will be basic strategies and tactics, and I’ll close with the Chassis Appendix, going over the chassis one by one.

== Section 1: Setting Up ==

=== What Is (And Isn’t) A Muscle? ===

A muscle is a midsize car that can mount a big engine unexposed. The [[Windsor]] and [[Windsor II]] are not muscles. No car with an exposed engine should be considered a muscle, as they are too vulnerable to survive in a combat zone. Here’s a (partial) list of muscle chassis:

*[[Phoenix]]
*[[Sunrise]]
*[[Voyager]]
*[[Vampire]]
*[[Pike]]
*[[Bullet]]
*[[Buccaneer]]
*[[Roadrunner]]
*[[Moray]]
*[[Flail]]
*[[Osprey]]
*[[Stormer]]
*[[Flash]]
*[[Corghette]]

All of these, other than the Flash, can mount a 4L or larger engine unexposed. The Flash is included because of its sheer speed and ability to accept an engine disproportionately large for its size. I’ll go into each of these chassis in detail in the Chassis Appendix.

=== Components ===

'''Engine'''
In general, you want at least a 4L engine or a 3.2LV8. A full-sized muscle with a 3.2L engine isn’t a muscle at all, it’s a coffin. Some engines can handle a 5L, but keep an eye on the bulk used for weapons and ammo.

'''Armor'''
Max out your front, put 5 on your top and bottom, and distribute the rest evenly between your sides and rear. Class B - NEVER C. A-class armor is tempting and gives a nice speed boost, but is awfully expensive to keep repaired.

'''Fuel'''
A 2-unit tank is sufficient for most muscle operations. An extra unit or two on top of that can enable your muscle scouts to go further out and improve your odds.

'''Tyres'''
Offroad all the way. Handling is everything to a muscle. The exception to this is if you’re working in rough terrain, then you need Reinforced.

'''Crew'''
Driver and gunner. Putting in 2 gunners takes up too much valuable space. Your driver should have at least 20 skill, but 40 is really preferred. With more driving skill, you’ll accelerate faster and you’ll be more stable. Your gunner should have at least some Gunnery skill, but muscles are a good way to train gunners. Defensive Driver is a great specialism for muscle drivers, as is Deathracer.

'''Suspension'''
Suspension settings are different for every chassis and weapon load, but one thing is true across the board: increasing tyre pressure will give you increased acceleration at lower speeds, under about 40MPH, but you will lose some control at the top end. Increased tyre pressure is highly recommended for vehicles that spend time in lower-speed dogfights. Past that, experiment with your cars to find a suspension setting that fits your style.

'''Weapons'''
Front, front, front. You want your weapons on the FRONT. Side mounts are possible, but not generally recommended. Rear mounts sound good on paper, but they’re actually very difficult to use in practice.

Here’s your menu of killware:

[[Machine Gun]] - The vanilla option. Don’t knock it, a pair of these on the front of a muscle can really chew through enemy armor over the long run, and they have decent range and accuracy. The downside is, you need a pair to make a decent punch, and your driver will have to man one of them. Your accuracy with that gun will be lower.

[[Gatling Gun]] - The [[Machine Gun]] on steroids. The downside is, its range is shorter and you NEED two of them to make a decent punch, so your driver better have decent Gunnery skills. Watch out for the increased recoil - sustained fire can really slow you down.

[[Micromissile Launcher]] - Like the Machine Gun and Gatling Gun, the MML is small enough to be fitted in pairs, or mixed with a MG or GG. However, I don’t recommend doing so. Having an explosive round is useful in some cases, but there isn’t enough punch to outweigh the low ammunition capacity. Some chassis can accept a MML alongside a [[Medium Machine Gun]] as a driver-controlled secondary weapon, and this is an enormously effective build at short range.

[[Medium Machine Gun]] - My favorite muscle weapon. Decent damage, manageable recoil, good ammo supply, and low bulk. You will NOT have enough room for 2 of them, except on the larger cars, but that’s not a bad thing, you’ll be able to fit several reloads or a One-Shot secondary. Putting in just one gun lets your gunner concentrate on killing properly.

[[Heavy Machine Gun]] - One of the heaviest weapons available to muscles, the HMG should be deployed with care. Its recoil is hard enough to seriously affect your handling, and its 40 bulk will generally limit you to a single reload. On the other hand, its sheer power and ammo capacity can sometimes outweigh its bulk. Best deployed on the [[Phoenix]].

[[Rocket Launcher]] - The Rocket Launcher is a sledgehammer of muscle weapons. Peeling 3 or 4 off an enemy with a single hit is very tempting, to say the least. But the 10-round clip means you’ll be reloading mid-fight, and you generally will only have room for a single reload. Having only 20 rounds of fire means you have to hit Every. Single. Time. Also, the large blast radius can make a lot of problems for you in a tight, up-close fight. If you have a Rapid Reload gunner and lots of ammo space, go for it.

[[Heavy Gatling Gun]] - Rare and powerful, the HGG is better mounted on an SUV than a muscle. Its fierce recoil will throw you all over the place.

[[Car Rifle]] - The Sniper’s Best Friend, the Car Rifle is feared for good reason. But in the high-speed muscle fights, you will NOT have enough time to line up a proper shot, and the 15-round magazine means you’ll have less sustained fire. Use a Medium Machine Gun unless you have some very skilled Snipers.

[[Flamethrower]] - The Flamethrower is another weapon that looks better on paper than it does in combat. As long as you’re running like you’re on fire, why not set everyone else on fire too? But unless you like being quite literally on fire, avoid the Flamethrower. Its damage is not high enough to justify its short range and small clip size. Also, ANY damage to the FT will set you on fire. Avoid unless you are making a suicide/novelty car.

[[Napalm Gun]] - The Napalm Gun is perhaps the only ballistic weapon that can be remotely useful on a muscle car. It takes some planning ,especially given that the NG's bulk means that it may be the only weapon on a car, but being able to throw flaming oil into the path of the enemy can be invaluable, especially if you're Kiting.

One-Shots - I’m using this as a catchall for the [[Mini|Mini Rocket]], [[Light|Light Rocket]], [[Medium|Medium Rocket]], and [[Heavy|Heavy Rocket]] Rockets and their respective Racks and Pods. A One-Shot mounted next to your primary weapon can give a low-armor opponent a serious case of the breaches. Given that you’ll need to use your driver to man it and you only have a single shot with them, you need to time your shots carefully to hit an enemy’s weak side from close range. But a well-placed rocket can shorten a duel by several turns. My personal favorite is a toss-up between a [[Light Rocket Rack]] (3 shots, triple the fun!) and a single [[Heavy Rocket]]. (Make a Big Bang!)
As appealing as One-Shots are, NEVER compromise your primary firepower to fit in a bigger One-Shot. Your main weapon is your cake, your One-Shot is your icing.

=== Sample Builds ===

{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
! Name !! Chassis !! Engine !! CR !! Weapons !! Occupants !! Notes
|-
| [[Scimitar]]
| [[Phoenix]] or [[Sunrise]]
| 4L
| 124
| Fr [[GG]]x2
| 2
| An impressive but fragile dogfighter. Stay away from your enemies' weapons, and get the Gatling Guns onto their flanks and rear. The guns work best at close range, especially with low-skill gangers.
|-
| [[Chaser]]
| [[Phoenix]] or [[Sunrise]]
| 4L
| 104
| FR [[MMG]]
| 2 or 3
| This NPC Build has less firepower than the Scimitar, but offers much better ammo capacity and less recoil. The MMG will have a slightly better range than double [[Gatling]]s, and much better control. Add a driver-controlled One-Shot for extra firepower.
|-
| [[Hawk]]
| [[Vampire]]
| 3.2LV8
| 104
| FR [[MMG]] [[MRR]]
| 2
| Expensive but worth every penny. One of the most successful light dogfighters around, because it'll outrun whatever it can't outfight. Deploy in a pair for an instant hunting unit.
|-
| [[Eliminator]]
| [[Voyager]]
| 3.2L
| 111
| FR 2X [[MG]] RE [[MG]]
| 2-3
| This NPC/Rental model serves as a great base for an interceptor and dogfighter. Low on firepower and fragile, but the Machine Guns give it better range and accuracy than the Scimitar.
|-
| [[Panther]]
| [[Bullet]]
| 4L
| 102
| FR [[MMG]] [[MRP]]
| 2
| An excellent trader-hunter with style and flair. Save the rockets for enemy breaches, and it'll do serious damage.
|-

== Section 2: Let’s Talk Tactics ==

=== Strategy and Combat Roles ===

Muscle tactics fall into four general areas: '''Kiting, Strafing, Dueling''' and '''Chasing'''. Which one of these you perform depends a great deal on the situation of the rest of your scout, so LISTEN to your squadmates. Clear communication can make the difference between a successful scout and a disaster.

*'''Kiting''' - Kiting is distracting the AI opponents. Run fast around them, OUTSIDE of their Line of Fire, and see who peels off to chase you. You don’t need to get the whole group’s attention, and every enemy that’s chasing you is one less that’s firing on your buddies. If none of them chase you, you can start '''Strafing''' their stragglers. If you only pull one enemy, you have a good chance to '''Duel''' it into submission, but if you have more than one, keep running until the rest of your squad is done with their portion and ready to peel them off of you. Kiting can also put you into position to '''Strafe''' stragglers or '''Clip''' artillery wagons.

*'''Strafing''' - Strafing is, in essence, attacking a group of enemies at high speed. Get your speed up - between 60 and 80 is ideal - and pick your closest target. Take several turns to plan out your approach, and check your target’s weapon arcs carefully. A rear strike is ideal on a [[Mutant Marauder]], but not a good idea against a [[Poltergeist]]. NEVER aim straight in at your target, aim slightly to one side. Keep your speed up as you make your attack run, fire a few times, then move on to the next target. You don’t need to kill your target, just sting it. Then you can move onto the next target or break off and set up for another run.

Related to strafing is '''Clipping'''. AI cars with Grenade Launchers and Mortars can be deadly because they tend to hide behind their consorts while showering a squad with high-explosive rain. But a muscle car or two can sometimes loop behind the consorts and knock out or distract an artillery vehicle. Even if the artillery is only distracted, you've bought your teammates a moment of respite from the falling shells.

Clipping an artillery car is risky, but can be done with enough speed. Drop your speed to 40 as you start firing, concentrate your fire on one armor facing, and get your teeth in. If the target or another car seems to be turning for you, accelerate out of danger, rinse, and repeat until your target is dead.

*'''Dueling''' - This is the opposite of Strafing. You’re getting in, going in for the kill, doing it for the thrill. As the name suggests, you’re going for a single opponent, and you’re not giving up until they’re dead in the desert.

First, know your opponent. Know exactly what weapons it has, know his firing arcs, and figure out how to get your teeth into him without getting bitten. In almost every duel, you WILL be outgunned, use your maneuverability to stay out of his fire zones. Taking some fire is all right, but spread it out among your sides, but focus your fire on one or two of his facets. Watch your ammunition level, and leave your opponent lamed and burning.

*'''Chasing''' - During trader hunts, this is where the muscle shows its true strengths. While your heavier allies are hammering the cargo escorts into scrap, your job is simple: keep the cargo from getting away.

Communicate with other chasers, make sure all of the runners are covered and none get to 350 meters.

Runners are fairly dumb AIs, they run away from the closest player. You can use this to your advantage if you can get one muscle in front of the pack, they’ll turn back toward your heavies or scatter into rough terrain. Most runners have heavy rear guns, so don’t get too close. With enough carnage among the escorts, traders will demoralize, but to maximize salvage, it’s a good idea to start shooting at traders when the escort is mostly demoralized. This increases the runners’ stress level and brings them closer to demoralizing. You DON’T want to actually breach them unless you’re in serious danger, but stressing them can shorten the scout by several turns.

Of all the cargo vehicles, [[Trade Runner]]s are the sole exception - you want to kill them, or at least silence their guns. They very rarely carry good cargo, and their heavy artillery can be lethal to chasers. The best tactic for bringing a Trade Runner down is to use two cars to go at its flanks and front and kill its engine. If you can't spare a second car, use terrain to shield yourself from its guns until you can get beside it. Get your teeth into its flank, and don't let go.

'''All-Muscle Squads'''

For an all-muscle squad, forming a line like a conventional scout squad is a recipe for suicide. I've found that the best strategy revolves around breaking your force into units of 2 or 3 cars each, and each attack group picks a target to duel. Running for a time is a good way to break an opposing force up, and then the attack groups can turn on individual enemies. Go in fast and hard, and kill the enemy as fast as possible.

=== Turn By Turn ===

Once the bullets start flying, fighting with a muscle becomes brutally simple: stay out of your enemy’s fire zones and keep your guns on your opponent. Have a working knowledge of the basic Somerset [[NPC Vehicles|NPC designs]] and what gun is on which facing. While avoiding fire is always a must, especially avoid rocket launchers, HMGs, and MMLs - the kinetic impact can badly affect your handling. Pick a target facing and pour your fire into it.

Knowing your car is especially important for muscle drivers. For your first couple outings with a chassis you’re not familiar with, take it out with a group on relatively low-risk scouts until you’re used to the handling. Alternately, load it into DW: Tactical and take it through some paces, get used to how it handles on sand and rock and asphalt.

'''The Slope Turn'''

Use terrain wisely. If you need to turn around quickly, you can climb up a slope and use it to shave a turn or two off your turning time. when front wheels are on the slope, turn your steering wheel all the way and keep it there until your front is below your back, and then start countersteering out. Be careful, as this can expose your top armor, but it's a useful trick.

'''Tactical Kiting'''

This is fancy verbiage for using your buddies as bait. Keep an eye on all your buddies - enemies who are going for your wingman can be vulnerable themselves to a sustained side or rear attack. And if an enemy is on your tail, you may be able to lure it into your allies' loving embrace, if you don't mind losing some armor in the doing.

'''A Note On The Handbrake'''

Used properly and sparingly, the handbrake can be the best medicine for a tight situation. But like all remedies, it's best used in moderation.

When you're moving at high speed in a tight turn, the handbrake can sometimes enable you to turn 180 or 270 degrees in a single turn, at the cost of a fair chunk of your speed. This can be very useful at the end of an attack run, but losing that much of your speed can be lethal. Use with caution.

== Chassis Appendix ==

[[Phoenix]] - The venerable Phoenix is probably your first muscle car, as it’s the most common in [[Somerset]], and even as you move onto better muscles, Phoenixes remain the best option for training drivers, because replacements can always be found. I’ve found them generally forgiving of newbie driving mistakes. Like all muscles, they have a tendency to drift and tend to lose armor to terrain.

[[Sunrise]] - The [[Phoenix]]’s twin. The [[Sunrise]] and [[Phoenix]] are identical in the garage, with identical armor, engine, and bulk characteristics. But out in the wild, the Sunrise is quite different from its sibling. The Sunrise tends to handle differently, softer and with a pronounced drift. After turning at high speed, it’s not uncommon to drift on your original course for several turns. The Sunrise demands planning four or five turns ahead. For all its faults, the [[Sunrise]] is marginally faster than the Phoenix and tends to lose less armor to terrain.

[[Voyager]] - The Voyager's a controversial muscle, sitting where it does right on the border between the the muscles and sedans, but with a 3.2L engine and light weapons, it's a joy to drive. A bit slippery offroad, it boasts a very tight turning radius and the largest killware space of any of the common muscles, but beware its lighter armor. One good setup uses twin [[Machine Gun]]s or [[Gatling Gun]]s to make a versatile interceptor with room for lots of spare ammo or a second gunner to carry home the loot. Drop the tire pressure and increase the length and stiffness a few points, and use it for hit and run attacks. For extra firepower, try a [[Rocket Launcher]]/[[Gatling Gun]] or a [[Micromissile Launcher]]/[[Medium Machine Gun]].

[[Vampire]] - It’s easy to see the rental [[Desert Striker]] as representative of the Vampire, even to take it for a spin, but the rental’s Standard Tyres cripple the Striker’s beautiful possibilities, and lead many to underestimate this beautiful interceptor. The Vampire drives like a [[Phoenix]] on steroids, but the increased responsiveness comes at the cost of 10 bulk. The [[Desert Striker]] build is almost overgunned, because with the [[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]], you don’t have room for a single reload with a gunner. Switching the HMG for an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], you make one of the best combat cars in Evan, because then you can fit in a gunner, a reload and a [[Light Rocket]]. This build is one I’ve used to solo-kill [[Poltergeist|Poltergeists]] and [[Mutant Bomber|Mutant Bombers]], and once scored three kills in a single scout. The Vampire truly shines with a 3.2 v8 under the hood, which lets you fit in a [[Medium Rocket Rack]].
On the other hand, the Vampire seems to be a bit more fragile than the [[Phoenix]], so use it with care.

[[Bullet]] - It’s easy to dismiss the Bullet as a Redneck Racer, since it is a Ford Fusion, the NASCAR car. But I’ve found the Bullet to be a surprisingly flexible hunter on the battlefield. It’s a fair sight faster than either the [[Phoenix]] or the [[Sunrise]], and very maneuverable. With a good driver, I feel like my Bullet is reading my mind, like it’ll do precisely what I ask it to, with a minimum of drifting. Low bulk is certainly an issue, but with a [[Medium Machine Gun]] and a [[Mini Rocket Pod]] or a [[Light Rocket]], the Bullet is a nasty little predator. Like the [[Vampire]], the Bullet truly shines with a V8 under the hood, which frees up space for more ammo or weaponry.

[[Buccaneer]] - The Bucky is one of the larger muscle cars, but it also has a slightly lower armor value. On the other hand, being able to fit a 5L engine, a MMG, and a gunner in makes it SPEEDY. Or you can fit in a 4L and free up 20 bulk for reloads, One-Shots, or even a secondary Gatling for your driver. I’ve seen a few people mount an [[Anti-Tank Gun]] in a Buccaneer, but that takes it out of the Muscle category and places it into a Sedan class, tactically, because there is NO WAY you can maintain speed and control while firing an ATG.

[[Flash]] - The Mini Muscle. With a 2L engine, it’s almost as fast as a 4L Phoenix, and it is so light and fast that it’s a joy to drive. The downside is, you have paper armor, not much of it, and you will have 40 bulk with a gunner. That’s enough for a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], a reload, and a Light Rocket. I wouldn’t recommend mounting anything heavier than a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] on this chassis, it’s very susceptible to recoil, and extremely fragile.

[[Pike]] - The [[Pike]] is the [[Sunrise]]’s bigger, nastier brother. If you think a Sunrise is too bouncy, walk straight past this baby. Fire 1 shot from a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] and watch this thing bounce for 4 turns. Sitting still and getting shot will leave you bouncing wildly and struggling for traction and any ability of escape. Even under MML or MG fire you may find yourself stuck for 4-5 seconds hoping it doesn't roll. All that said, it drives over the rough stuff real well (with care) and is fast. Takes some time to get used to the handling (ghost)and tends to understeer heaps into a corner (especially if you fill its huge engine bay with motor) and oversteer once it does start to turn. Once you do get used to this though and drive accordingly, shes a dream to drive and low speed maneuverability is amazing. Reasonable armour. - Bastiel

[[Flail]] - The [[Flail]] has almost sedan-like bulk available and heavy armor. Well, it's more like driving a mini SUV than a musclecar depending on how you arm it, but for a musclecar, boy does it have a lot of armor and almost as much capacity as the [[Osprey]] - FireFly

I've found the Flail a very versatile car if used properly. It's easy to look at all that bulk and armor and think of it as a 'win button.' It isn't. Make a wrong move in the Flail, and you'll be lucky to live to regret it. With a 4L under the hood, its acceleration is substandard, and it really needs a 5L or better for optimal performance. Its maneuvering isn't bad, but like a lot of sedans, its best maneuvering happens under 30 MPH. Use it like a Phoenix or sunrise, and your Flail will die. Use it as a heavy support car to back up your lighter muscles, and it will serve you very well.

The [[Flail]] also has a wide turning radius that should be accounted for. With a 3.2Lv8 and a HCR or Laser it makes a good sniper. - Tango

[[Osprey]] - It has decent handling, not the best, but there are worse. The main issue is that if you get locked into a slide, it can take some turns to get back to moving straight. The main strength lies in it's huge capacity, with a crew of 2 and a 3.2lv8, you still have room for 110 bulk worth of weapons, for example, a [[Heavy Car Rifle|HCR]]/[[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]] combo works surprisingly well, but the real fun with that is that it's the most heavily armed musclecar around, and kicks the living snot out of other muscles, if you can handle the weight... - FireFly

[[Roadrunner]] - It handles like a heavy Phoenix. It has the chassis strength of a [[Chomper]]. With the addition of a HUGE motor capacity, this car might fly if not for the downforce supplied by the extraordinarily large rear wing.

It is VERY rare to find one of these beautiful cars. You might not want to risk it ANYWHERE once you do find it.
If you do find one, you`ll be pleasantly surprised at it`s armor capacity and bulk available. - JD Basher

[[Moray]] - No middle ground really, people seem to either love them or hate them. Morays are a bit pricey for something with less armour than a [[Phoenix|Pho,]] but they will take a 5LV8 unexposed, making them a speedy travel car.
They do VERY well with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Like the [[Sunrise]], they can be a bit drifty at high speeds, do not expect radical changes in direction, and this chassis can be quite unforgiving if you oversteer, though they rarely turtle.
There is, however, definitely a learning curve to overcome when using this chassis.
Expect to spin out and lose all of your momentum if you expect too much.

At slower speeds, such as when the dogfight has gone to hell, you can get a 90 degree turn out of this car, easily, assuming you have no major recoil happening from weapons fire, and a good bit more if you like using the handbrake. You can stay inside the turning arc of most NPC vehicles with ease, chewing away at them the whole time. As with all muscle cars, recoil can be an issue with heavier weapons.
Personally, after a good bit of trial and error, I have found that an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Machine Gun|MG]] combo works very well. An [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Micromissile Launcher|MMLs]] combo is effective as well, but one must keep in mind the ammo limitations [[Micromissile Launcher|MML]] have.
As with any muscle car, DON'T STOP unless it's going to give you a BIG tactical advantage.
The [[Moray]] can be a bit more forgiving in slow speed situations than other muscle cars due to it's tight turning radius, but it's best not to get INTO that situation if you don't have to. -Rev. V

[[Corghette]] - A dead sexy little racer - the Corghette is closest in handling to a tighter [[Vampire]] with one major difference. On rough terrain, it's entirely possible to get the Corghette stuck nose-and-tail on terrain, with none of its tires in contact with the ground. If it doesn't get stuck, it's a very responsive and deadly car, with 5 more bulk than the [[Vampire]]. Like the [[Vampire]], the Corghette shines with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Properly handled with an eye for terrain, the Corgy will serve you very well.

[[Category: Guides]]

Scimitar

2012-02-18T21:49:38Z

Fifth:

{{VehicleDesign|
chassis=Phoenix|
engine=4L|
fueltank=3|
tyres=Offroad|
free_bulk=12|
weight=3860|
combat_rating=124|
armor_grade=B|
armor_fr=21|
armor_re=17|
armor_le=18|
armor_ri=18|
armor_to=5|
armor_bo=5|
weapon_1=Gatling Gun|
weapon_1_location=Front|
weapon_2=Gatling Gun|
weapon_2_location=Front|
}}

Scimitar is a solid solo scout or an excellent picket vehicle, useful for out-maneuvering, confusing, and dividing the enemy. Handled well, this kind of vehicle can easily single-out, separate and then destroy one vehicle. With three extra Gatling magazines, two or even three such vehicles can be taken care of.

Generally, the driver must also have the Gunner skill, and inaccuracy may become a factor. If the Gatling Gun is exhausted, the gunner should take over and reload while the driver uses the time wisely to gain a better position.

As with all muscle cars, speed is life. Stay moving and ''do not'' let your engine take damage, running away is your only real defense.

[[Player Vehicle Designs|Back To List]]

[[Category: Player Vehicles]]

Player Vehicle Designs

2012-02-18T21:48:48Z

Fifth:

Here is a list of common vehicle builds that players have found successful.

{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
! Name !! Chassis !! CR !! Weapons !! Occupants !! Notes
|-
| [[Hound]]
| [[Alpha]]
| 78
| Fr [[GG]]
| 2
| A fairly common Sub-Compact design when gangers skilled in both Driving and Gunnery are in short supply.
|-
| [[Scimitar]]
| [[Phoenix]] or [[Sunrise]]
| 124
| Fr [[GG]]x2
| 2
| An impressive but fragile dogfighter. Stay away from your enemies' weapons, and get the Gatling Guns onto their flanks and rear.
|-
| [[Diplomat]]
| [[Mercenary]]
| ~175
| Fr [[MMG]]/[[RL]]
| 2
|
|-
| [[Landcrusher]]
| [[Landrunner]]
| 249
| Fr [[HMG]]x2, Le [[MMG]]
| 3-4
|
|-
| [[Landy Survivor]]
| [[Landrunner]]
| 234
| Fr [[HGG]]/[[RL]], Le [[Medium Rocket|MR]]
| 3
| A Strong line vehicle that can dogfight in a pinch
|-
| [[Ship O' The Line]]
| [[Apache]]
| 223
| Fr [[HMG]]x2, Le [[GG]]
| 3
| Probably the most common car seen in Somerset. This car is a well balanced, tough machine
|-
| [[4Gat Punisher]]
| [[Apache]]
| 236
| Fr [[GG]] x2, Re [[GG]] x2
| 3-4
|A Proven Killer! Get close, hold them by the belt, and beat them till they bleed!
|
|-
| [[Merc Runner]]
| [[Mercenary]]
| 76
| No weapons
| 3
|An EXCELLENT mission runner! With a 15 unit fuel tank and armor as stated, you can haul up to 100 bulk on missions.
|-
| [[PBR Streetgang]]
| [[Two-Axle Lorry]]
| 295
| Fr [[HMG]]/[[ReRam]], Sides [[MMG]]/[[GG]], Re [[HMG]]/[[HGG]]
| up to 8
|This lorry can run missions and fight to get them to their destination! Run this one solo and use a good scout driving and fill up your gunner seats. DON'T use escorts, it will raise the CR too high. Running solo will get you 2/4 enemy cars at the most which is easily manageable with all the guns on this Land-Whale!
|-
| [[Witch]]
| [[Windsor II]]
| 149
| Fr [[GG]]/[[HMG]]
| 3
| A proven dog-fighter, go for the throat with its teeth and very little will survive.
|
|}

For posting vehicle designs in the wiki you should use the [[Template:VehicleDesign]] template.

You can also use the online [http://dw.laasma.ee/carbuilder Carbuilder] and let it generate the wiki markup for you by clicking the "Darkwind Wiki Vehicle Template" link in the vehicle page.

Example code for a vehicle design.
<pre>
<nowiki>{{VehicleDesign|
chassis=Apache|
engine=3.2L V8|
fueltank=2|
tyres=Reinforced|
free_bulk=105|
weight=6372|
combat_rating=?|
armor_grade=B|
armor_fr=32|
armor_re=28|
armor_le=28|
armor_ri=28|
armor_to=8|
armor_bo=8|
weapon_1=Heavy Machine Gun|
weapon_1_location=Front|
weapon_2=Heavy Machine Gun|
weapon_2_location=Front|
}}</nowiki>
</pre>

[[Category: Player Vehicles]]

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2012-02-18T18:18:27Z

Fifth: /* Setting Up */

The muscle car is one of the true joys of Darkwind. Neither well armored nor well armed, its primary asset in the wilderness is its speed and maneuverability. Wilderness battles have been won against enormous odds because of one or two well-employed muscle cars.

Muscles are also indispensable for hunting Traders, because only muscle cars can chase down and corral fleeing cargo vehicles.

But muscle cars are terribly vulnerable when exchanging fire with the enemy, due to their light armor and weapon loads, and their high speed can be as much a vulnerability as an asset. The difference between a victorious muscle and a very fast coffin is forethought and planning.

This manual is broken into several sections. First I’ll go over what a muscle car is, and setting up your muscle, and I’ll go over different weapons. Then will be basic strategies and tactics, and I’ll close with the Chassis Appendix, going over the chassis one by one.

== Section 1: Setting Up ==

=== What Is (And Isn’t) A Muscle? ===

A muscle is a midsize car that can mount a big engine unexposed. The [[Windsor]] and [[Windsor II]] are not muscles. No car with an exposed engine should be considered a muscle, as they are too vulnerable to survive in a combat zone. Here’s a (partial) list of muscle chassis:

*[[Phoenix]]
*[[Sunrise]]
*[[Voyager]]
*[[Vampire]]
*[[Pike]]
*[[Bullet]]
*[[Buccaneer]]
*[[Roadrunner]]
*[[Moray]]
*[[Flail]]
*[[Osprey]]
*[[Stormer]]
*[[Flash]]
*[[Corghette]]

All of these, other than the Flash, can mount a 4L or larger engine unexposed. The Flash is included because of its sheer speed and ability to accept an engine disproportionately large for its size. I’ll go into each of these chassis in detail in the Chassis Appendix.

=== Setting Up ===

'''Engine'''
In general, you want at least a 4L engine or a 3.2LV8. A full-sized muscle with a 3.2L engine isn’t a muscle at all, it’s a coffin. Some engines can handle a 5L, but keep an eye on the bulk used for weapons and ammo.

'''Armor'''
Max out your front, put 5 on your top and bottom, and distribute the rest evenly between your sides and rear. Class B - NEVER C. A-class armor is tempting and gives a nice speed boost, but is awfully expensive to keep repaired.

'''Fuel'''
A 2-unit tank is sufficient for most muscle operations. An extra unit or two on top of that can enable your muscle scouts to go further out and improve your odds.

'''Tyres'''
Offroad all the way. Handling is everything to a muscle. The exception to this is if you’re working in rough terrain, then you need Reinforced.

'''Crew'''
Driver and gunner. Putting in 2 gunners takes up too much valuable space. Your driver should have at least 20 skill, but 40 is really preferred. With more driving skill, you’ll accelerate faster and you’ll be more stable. Your gunner should have at least some Gunnery skill, but muscles are a good way to train gunners. Defensive Driver is a great specialism for muscle drivers, as is Deathracer.

'''Suspension'''
Suspension settings are different for every chassis and weapon load, but one thing is true across the board: increasing tyre pressure will give you increased acceleration at lower speeds, under about 40MPH, but you will lose some control at the top end. Increased tyre pressure is highly recommended for vehicles that spend time in lower-speed dogfights. Past that, experiment with your cars to find a suspension setting that fits your style.

'''Weapons'''
Front, front, front. You want your weapons on the FRONT. Side mounts are possible, but not generally recommended. Rear mounts sound good on paper, but they’re actually very difficult to use in practice.

Here’s your menu of killware:

[[Machine Gun]] - The vanilla option. Don’t knock it, a pair of these on the front of a muscle can really chew through enemy armor over the long run, and they have decent range and accuracy. The downside is, you need a pair to make a decent punch, and your driver will have to man one of them. Your accuracy with that gun will be lower.

[[Gatling Gun]] - The [[Machine Gun]] on steroids. The downside is, its range is shorter and you NEED two of them to make a decent punch, so your driver better have decent Gunnery skills. Watch out for the increased recoil - sustained fire can really slow you down.

[[Micromissile Launcher]] - Like the Machine Gun and Gatling Gun, the MML is small enough to be fitted in pairs, or mixed with a MG or GG. However, I don’t recommend doing so. Having an explosive round is useful in some cases, but there isn’t enough punch to outweigh the low ammunition capacity. Some chassis can accept a MML alongside a [[Medium Machine Gun]] as a driver-controlled secondary weapon, and this is an enormously effective build at short range.

[[Medium Machine Gun]] - My favorite muscle weapon. Decent damage, manageable recoil, good ammo supply, and low bulk. You will NOT have enough room for 2 of them, except on the larger cars, but that’s not a bad thing, you’ll be able to fit several reloads or a One-Shot secondary. Putting in just one gun lets your gunner concentrate on killing properly.

[[Heavy Machine Gun]] - One of the heaviest weapons available to muscles, the HMG should be deployed with care. Its recoil is hard enough to seriously affect your handling, and its 40 bulk will generally limit you to a single reload. On the other hand, its sheer power and ammo capacity can sometimes outweigh its bulk. Best deployed on the [[Phoenix]].

[[Rocket Launcher]] - The Rocket Launcher is a sledgehammer of muscle weapons. Peeling 3 or 4 off an enemy with a single hit is very tempting, to say the least. But the 10-round clip means you’ll be reloading mid-fight, and you generally will only have room for a single reload. Having only 20 rounds of fire means you have to hit Every. Single. Time. Also, the large blast radius can make a lot of problems for you in a tight, up-close fight. If you have a Rapid Reload gunner and lots of ammo space, go for it.

[[Heavy Gatling Gun]] - Rare and powerful, the HGG is better mounted on an SUV than a muscle. Its fierce recoil will throw you all over the place.

[[Car Rifle]] - The Sniper’s Best Friend, the Car Rifle is feared for good reason. But in the high-speed muscle fights, you will NOT have enough time to line up a proper shot, and the 15-round magazine means you’ll have less sustained fire. Use a Medium Machine Gun unless you have some very skilled Snipers.

[[Flamethrower]] - The Flamethrower is another weapon that looks better on paper than it does in combat. As long as you’re running like you’re on fire, why not set everyone else on fire too? But unless you like being quite literally on fire, avoid the Flamethrower. Its damage is not high enough to justify its short range and small clip size. Also, ANY damage to the FT will set you on fire. Avoid unless you are making a suicide/novelty car.

[[Napalm Gun]] - The Napalm Gun is perhaps the only ballistic weapon that can be remotely useful on a muscle car. It takes some planning ,especially given that the NG's bulk means that it may be the only weapon on a car, but being able to throw flaming oil into the path of the enemy can be invaluable, especially if you're Kiting.

One-Shots - I’m using this as a catchall for the [[Mini|Mini Rocket]], [[Light|Light Rocket]], [[Medium|Medium Rocket]], and [[Heavy|Heavy Rocket]] Rockets and their respective Racks and Pods. A One-Shot mounted next to your primary weapon can give a low-armor opponent a serious case of the breaches. Given that you’ll need to use your driver to man it and you only have a single shot with them, you need to time your shots carefully to hit an enemy’s weak side from close range. But a well-placed rocket can shorten a duel by several turns. My personal favorite is a toss-up between a [[Light Rocket Rack]] (3 shots, triple the fun!) and a single [[Heavy Rocket]]. (Make a Big Bang!)
As appealing as One-Shots are, NEVER compromise your primary firepower to fit in a bigger One-Shot. Your main weapon is your cake, your One-Shot is your icing.

== Section 2: Let’s Talk Tactics ==

=== Strategy and Combat Roles ===

Muscle tactics fall into four general areas: '''Kiting, Strafing, Dueling''' and '''Chasing'''. Which one of these you perform depends a great deal on the situation of the rest of your scout, so LISTEN to your squadmates. Clear communication can make the difference between a successful scout and a disaster.

*'''Kiting''' - Kiting is distracting the AI opponents. Run fast around them, OUTSIDE of their Line of Fire, and see who peels off to chase you. You don’t need to get the whole group’s attention, and every enemy that’s chasing you is one less that’s firing on your buddies. If none of them chase you, you can start '''Strafing''' their stragglers. If you only pull one enemy, you have a good chance to '''Duel''' it into submission, but if you have more than one, keep running until the rest of your squad is done with their portion and ready to peel them off of you. Kiting can also put you into position to '''Strafe''' stragglers or '''Clip''' artillery wagons.

*'''Strafing''' - Strafing is, in essence, attacking a group of enemies at high speed. Get your speed up - between 60 and 80 is ideal - and pick your closest target. Take several turns to plan out your approach, and check your target’s weapon arcs carefully. A rear strike is ideal on a [[Mutant Marauder]], but not a good idea against a [[Poltergeist]]. NEVER aim straight in at your target, aim slightly to one side. Keep your speed up as you make your attack run, fire a few times, then move on to the next target. You don’t need to kill your target, just sting it. Then you can move onto the next target or break off and set up for another run.

Related to strafing is '''Clipping'''. AI cars with Grenade Launchers and Mortars can be deadly because they tend to hide behind their consorts while showering a squad with high-explosive rain. But a muscle car or two can sometimes loop behind the consorts and knock out or distract an artillery vehicle. Even if the artillery is only distracted, you've bought your teammates a moment of respite from the falling shells.

Clipping an artillery car is risky, but can be done with enough speed. Drop your speed to 40 as you start firing, concentrate your fire on one armor facing, and get your teeth in. If the target or another car seems to be turning for you, accelerate out of danger, rinse, and repeat until your target is dead.

*'''Dueling''' - This is the opposite of Strafing. You’re getting in, going in for the kill, doing it for the thrill. As the name suggests, you’re going for a single opponent, and you’re not giving up until they’re dead in the desert.

First, know your opponent. Know exactly what weapons it has, know his firing arcs, and figure out how to get your teeth into him without getting bitten. In almost every duel, you WILL be outgunned, use your maneuverability to stay out of his fire zones. Taking some fire is all right, but spread it out among your sides, but focus your fire on one or two of his facets. Watch your ammunition level, and leave your opponent lamed and burning.

*'''Chasing''' - During trader hunts, this is where the muscle shows its true strengths. While your heavier allies are hammering the cargo escorts into scrap, your job is simple: keep the cargo from getting away.

Communicate with other chasers, make sure all of the runners are covered and none get to 350 meters.

Runners are fairly dumb AIs, they run away from the closest player. You can use this to your advantage if you can get one muscle in front of the pack, they’ll turn back toward your heavies or scatter into rough terrain. Most runners have heavy rear guns, so don’t get too close. With enough carnage among the escorts, traders will demoralize, but to maximize salvage, it’s a good idea to start shooting at traders when the escort is mostly demoralized. This increases the runners’ stress level and brings them closer to demoralizing. You DON’T want to actually breach them unless you’re in serious danger, but stressing them can shorten the scout by several turns.

Of all the cargo vehicles, [[Trade Runner]]s are the sole exception - you want to kill them, or at least silence their guns. They very rarely carry good cargo, and their heavy artillery can be lethal to chasers. The best tactic for bringing a Trade Runner down is to use two cars to go at its flanks and front and kill its engine. If you can't spare a second car, use terrain to shield yourself from its guns until you can get beside it. Get your teeth into its flank, and don't let go.

'''All-Muscle Squads'''

For an all-muscle squad, forming a line like a conventional scout squad is a recipe for suicide. I've found that the best strategy revolves around breaking your force into units of 2 or 3 cars each, and each attack group picks a target to duel. Running for a time is a good way to break an opposing force up, and then the attack groups can turn on individual enemies. Go in fast and hard, and kill the enemy as fast as possible.

=== Turn By Turn ===

Once the bullets start flying, fighting with a muscle becomes brutally simple: stay out of your enemy’s fire zones and keep your guns on your opponent. Have a working knowledge of the basic Somerset [[NPC Vehicles|NPC designs]] and what gun is on which facing. While avoiding fire is always a must, especially avoid rocket launchers, HMGs, and MMLs - the kinetic impact can badly affect your handling. Pick a target facing and pour your fire into it.

Knowing your car is especially important for muscle drivers. For your first couple outings with a chassis you’re not familiar with, take it out with a group on relatively low-risk scouts until you’re used to the handling. Alternately, load it into DW: Tactical and take it through some paces, get used to how it handles on sand and rock and asphalt.

'''The Slope Turn'''

Use terrain wisely. If you need to turn around quickly, you can climb up a slope and use it to shave a turn or two off your turning time. when front wheels are on the slope, turn your steering wheel all the way and keep it there until your front is below your back, and then start countersteering out. Be careful, as this can expose your top armor, but it's a useful trick.

'''Tactical Kiting'''

This is fancy verbiage for using your buddies as bait. Keep an eye on all your buddies - enemies who are going for your wingman can be vulnerable themselves to a sustained side or rear attack. And if an enemy is on your tail, you may be able to lure it into your allies' loving embrace, if you don't mind losing some armor in the doing.

'''A Note On The Handbrake'''

Used properly and sparingly, the handbrake can be the best medicine for a tight situation. But like all remedies, it's best used in moderation.

When you're moving at high speed in a tight turn, the handbrake can sometimes enable you to turn 180 or 270 degrees in a single turn, at the cost of a fair chunk of your speed. This can be very useful at the end of an attack run, but losing that much of your speed can be lethal. Use with caution.

== Chassis Appendix ==

[[Phoenix]] - The venerable Phoenix is probably your first muscle car, as it’s the most common in [[Somerset]], and even as you move onto better muscles, Phoenixes remain the best option for training drivers, because replacements can always be found. I’ve found them generally forgiving of newbie driving mistakes. Like all muscles, they have a tendency to drift and tend to lose armor to terrain.

[[Sunrise]] - The [[Phoenix]]’s twin. The [[Sunrise]] and [[Phoenix]] are identical in the garage, with identical armor, engine, and bulk characteristics. But out in the wild, the Sunrise is quite different from its sibling. The Sunrise tends to handle differently, softer and with a pronounced drift. After turning at high speed, it’s not uncommon to drift on your original course for several turns. The Sunrise demands planning four or five turns ahead. For all its faults, the [[Sunrise]] is marginally faster than the Phoenix and tends to lose less armor to terrain.

[[Voyager]] - The Voyager's a controversial muscle, sitting where it does right on the border between the the muscles and sedans, but with a 3.2L engine and light weapons, it's a joy to drive. A bit slippery offroad, it boasts a very tight turning radius and the largest killware space of any of the common muscles, but beware its lighter armor. One good setup uses twin [[Machine Gun]]s or [[Gatling Gun]]s to make a versatile interceptor with room for lots of spare ammo or a second gunner to carry home the loot. Drop the tire pressure and increase the length and stiffness a few points, and use it for hit and run attacks. For extra firepower, try a [[Rocket Launcher]]/[[Gatling Gun]] or a [[Micromissile Launcher]]/[[Medium Machine Gun]].

[[Vampire]] - It’s easy to see the rental [[Desert Striker]] as representative of the Vampire, even to take it for a spin, but the rental’s Standard Tyres cripple the Striker’s beautiful possibilities, and lead many to underestimate this beautiful interceptor. The Vampire drives like a [[Phoenix]] on steroids, but the increased responsiveness comes at the cost of 10 bulk. The [[Desert Striker]] build is almost overgunned, because with the [[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]], you don’t have room for a single reload with a gunner. Switching the HMG for an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], you make one of the best combat cars in Evan, because then you can fit in a gunner, a reload and a [[Light Rocket]]. This build is one I’ve used to solo-kill [[Poltergeist|Poltergeists]] and [[Mutant Bomber|Mutant Bombers]], and once scored three kills in a single scout. The Vampire truly shines with a 3.2 v8 under the hood, which lets you fit in a [[Medium Rocket Rack]].
On the other hand, the Vampire seems to be a bit more fragile than the [[Phoenix]], so use it with care.

[[Bullet]] - It’s easy to dismiss the Bullet as a Redneck Racer, since it is a Ford Fusion, the NASCAR car. But I’ve found the Bullet to be a surprisingly flexible hunter on the battlefield. It’s a fair sight faster than either the [[Phoenix]] or the [[Sunrise]], and very maneuverable. With a good driver, I feel like my Bullet is reading my mind, like it’ll do precisely what I ask it to, with a minimum of drifting. Low bulk is certainly an issue, but with a [[Medium Machine Gun]] and a [[Mini Rocket Pod]] or a [[Light Rocket]], the Bullet is a nasty little predator. Like the [[Vampire]], the Bullet truly shines with a V8 under the hood, which frees up space for more ammo or weaponry.

[[Buccaneer]] - The Bucky is one of the larger muscle cars, but it also has a slightly lower armor value. On the other hand, being able to fit a 5L engine, a MMG, and a gunner in makes it SPEEDY. Or you can fit in a 4L and free up 20 bulk for reloads, One-Shots, or even a secondary Gatling for your driver. I’ve seen a few people mount an [[Anti-Tank Gun]] in a Buccaneer, but that takes it out of the Muscle category and places it into a Sedan class, tactically, because there is NO WAY you can maintain speed and control while firing an ATG.

[[Flash]] - The Mini Muscle. With a 2L engine, it’s almost as fast as a 4L Phoenix, and it is so light and fast that it’s a joy to drive. The downside is, you have paper armor, not much of it, and you will have 40 bulk with a gunner. That’s enough for a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], a reload, and a Light Rocket. I wouldn’t recommend mounting anything heavier than a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] on this chassis, it’s very susceptible to recoil, and extremely fragile.

[[Pike]] - The [[Pike]] is the [[Sunrise]]’s bigger, nastier brother. If you think a Sunrise is too bouncy, walk straight past this baby. Fire 1 shot from a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] and watch this thing bounce for 4 turns. Sitting still and getting shot will leave you bouncing wildly and struggling for traction and any ability of escape. Even under MML or MG fire you may find yourself stuck for 4-5 seconds hoping it doesn't roll. All that said, it drives over the rough stuff real well (with care) and is fast. Takes some time to get used to the handling (ghost)and tends to understeer heaps into a corner (especially if you fill its huge engine bay with motor) and oversteer once it does start to turn. Once you do get used to this though and drive accordingly, shes a dream to drive and low speed maneuverability is amazing. Reasonable armour. - Bastiel

[[Flail]] - The [[Flail]] has almost sedan-like bulk available and heavy armor. Well, it's more like driving a mini SUV than a musclecar depending on how you arm it, but for a musclecar, boy does it have a lot of armor and almost as much capacity as the [[Osprey]] - FireFly

I've found the Flail a very versatile car if used properly. It's easy to look at all that bulk and armor and think of it as a 'win button.' It isn't. Make a wrong move in the Flail, and you'll be lucky to live to regret it. With a 4L under the hood, its acceleration is substandard, and it really needs a 5L or better for optimal performance. Its maneuvering isn't bad, but like a lot of sedans, its best maneuvering happens under 30 MPH. Use it like a Phoenix or sunrise, and your Flail will die. Use it as a heavy support car to back up your lighter muscles, and it will serve you very well.

The [[Flail]] also has a wide turning radius that should be accounted for. With a 3.2Lv8 and a HCR or Laser it makes a good sniper. - Tango

[[Osprey]] - It has decent handling, not the best, but there are worse. The main issue is that if you get locked into a slide, it can take some turns to get back to moving straight. The main strength lies in it's huge capacity, with a crew of 2 and a 3.2lv8, you still have room for 110 bulk worth of weapons, for example, a [[Heavy Car Rifle|HCR]]/[[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]] combo works surprisingly well, but the real fun with that is that it's the most heavily armed musclecar around, and kicks the living snot out of other muscles, if you can handle the weight... - FireFly

[[Roadrunner]] - It handles like a heavy Phoenix. It has the chassis strength of a [[Chomper]]. With the addition of a HUGE motor capacity, this car might fly if not for the downforce supplied by the extraordinarily large rear wing.

It is VERY rare to find one of these beautiful cars. You might not want to risk it ANYWHERE once you do find it.
If you do find one, you`ll be pleasantly surprised at it`s armor capacity and bulk available. - JD Basher

[[Moray]] - No middle ground really, people seem to either love them or hate them. Morays are a bit pricey for something with less armour than a [[Phoenix|Pho,]] but they will take a 5LV8 unexposed, making them a speedy travel car.
They do VERY well with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Like the [[Sunrise]], they can be a bit drifty at high speeds, do not expect radical changes in direction, and this chassis can be quite unforgiving if you oversteer, though they rarely turtle.
There is, however, definitely a learning curve to overcome when using this chassis.
Expect to spin out and lose all of your momentum if you expect too much.

At slower speeds, such as when the dogfight has gone to hell, you can get a 90 degree turn out of this car, easily, assuming you have no major recoil happening from weapons fire, and a good bit more if you like using the handbrake. You can stay inside the turning arc of most NPC vehicles with ease, chewing away at them the whole time. As with all muscle cars, recoil can be an issue with heavier weapons.
Personally, after a good bit of trial and error, I have found that an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Machine Gun|MG]] combo works very well. An [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Micromissile Launcher|MMLs]] combo is effective as well, but one must keep in mind the ammo limitations [[Micromissile Launcher|MML]] have.
As with any muscle car, DON'T STOP unless it's going to give you a BIG tactical advantage.
The [[Moray]] can be a bit more forgiving in slow speed situations than other muscle cars due to it's tight turning radius, but it's best not to get INTO that situation if you don't have to. -Rev. V

[[Corghette]] - A dead sexy little racer - the Corghette is closest in handling to a tighter [[Vampire]] with one major difference. On rough terrain, it's entirely possible to get the Corghette stuck nose-and-tail on terrain, with none of its tires in contact with the ground. If it doesn't get stuck, it's a very responsive and deadly car, with 5 more bulk than the [[Vampire]]. Like the [[Vampire]], the Corghette shines with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Properly handled with an eye for terrain, the Corgy will serve you very well.

[[Category: Guides]]

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2012-02-18T05:37:11Z

Fifth: /* What Is (And Isn’t) A Muscle? */

The muscle car is one of the true joys of Darkwind. Neither well armored nor well armed, its primary asset in the wilderness is its speed and maneuverability. Wilderness battles have been won against enormous odds because of one or two well-employed muscle cars.

Muscles are also indispensable for hunting Traders, because only muscle cars can chase down and corral fleeing cargo vehicles.

But muscle cars are terribly vulnerable when exchanging fire with the enemy, due to their light armor and weapon loads, and their high speed can be as much a vulnerability as an asset. The difference between a victorious muscle and a very fast coffin is forethought and planning.

This manual is broken into several sections. First I’ll go over what a muscle car is, and setting up your muscle, and I’ll go over different weapons. Then will be basic strategies and tactics, and I’ll close with the Chassis Appendix, going over the chassis one by one.

== Section 1: Setting Up ==

=== What Is (And Isn’t) A Muscle? ===

A muscle is a midsize car that can mount a big engine unexposed. The [[Windsor]] and [[Windsor II]] are not muscles. No car with an exposed engine should be considered a muscle, as they are too vulnerable to survive in a combat zone. Here’s a (partial) list of muscle chassis:

*[[Phoenix]]
*[[Sunrise]]
*[[Voyager]]
*[[Vampire]]
*[[Pike]]
*[[Bullet]]
*[[Buccaneer]]
*[[Roadrunner]]
*[[Moray]]
*[[Flail]]
*[[Osprey]]
*[[Stormer]]
*[[Flash]]
*[[Corghette]]

All of these, other than the Flash, can mount a 4L or larger engine unexposed. The Flash is included because of its sheer speed and ability to accept an engine disproportionately large for its size. I’ll go into each of these chassis in detail in the Chassis Appendix.

=== Setting Up ===

'''Engine'''
In general, you want at least a 4L engine or a 3.2LV8. A full-sized muscle with a 3.2L engine isn’t a muscle at all, it’s a coffin. Some engines can handle a 5L, but keep an eye on the bulk used for weapons and ammo.

'''Armor'''
Max out your front, put 5 on your top and bottom, and distribute the rest evenly between your sides and rear. Class B - NEVER C. A-class armor is tempting and gives a nice speed boost, but is awfully expensive to keep repaired.

'''Fuel'''
A 2-unit tank is sufficient for most muscle operations. An extra unit or two on top of that can enable your muscle scouts to go further out and improve your odds.

'''Tyres'''
Offroad all the way. Handling is everything to a muscle. The exception to this is if you’re working in rough terrain, then you need Reinforced.

'''Crew'''
Driver and gunner. Putting in 2 gunners takes up too much valuable space. Your driver should have at least 20 skill, but 40 is really preferred. With more driving skill, you’ll accelerate faster and you’ll be more stable. Your gunner should have at least some Gunnery skill, but muscles are a good way to train gunners. Defensive Driver is a great specialism for muscle drivers, as is Deathracer.

'''Suspension'''
Suspension settings are different for every chassis and weapon load, but one thing is true across the board: increasing tyre pressure will give you increased acceleration at lower speeds, under about 40MPH, but you will lose some control at the top end. Increased tyre pressure is highly recommended for vehicles that spend time in lower-speed dogfights. Past that, experiment with your cars to find a suspension setting that fits your style.

'''Weapons'''
Front, front, front. You want your weapons on the FRONT. Side mounts are possible, but not generally recommended. Rear mounts sound good on paper, but they’re actually very difficult to use in practice.

Here’s your menu of killware:

[[Machine Gun]] - The vanilla option. Don’t knock it, a pair of these on the front of a muscle can really chew through enemy armor over the long run, and they have decent range and accuracy. The downside is, you need a pair to make a decent punch, and your driver will have to man one of them. Your accuracy with that gun will be lower.

[[Gatling Gun]] - The [[Machine Gun]] on steroids. The downside is, its range is shorter and you NEED two of them to make a decent punch, so your driver better have decent Gunnery skills. Watch out for the increased recoil - sustained fire can really slow you down.

[[Micromissile Launcher]] - Like the Machine Gun and Gatling Gun, the MML is small enough to be fitted in pairs, or mixed with a MG or GG. However, I don’t recommend doing so. Having an explosive round is useful in some cases, but there isn’t enough punch to outweigh the low ammunition capacity. Some chassis can accept a MML alongside a [[Medium Machine Gun]] as a driver-controlled secondary weapon, and this is an enormously effective build at short range.

[[Medium Machine Gun]] - My favorite muscle weapon. Decent damage, manageable recoil, good ammo supply, and low bulk. You will NOT have enough room for 2 of them, except on the larger cars, but that’s not a bad thing, you’ll be able to fit several reloads or a One-Shot secondary. Putting in just one gun lets your gunner concentrate on killing properly.

[[Heavy Machine Gun]] - One of the heaviest weapons available to muscles, the HMG should be deployed with care. Its recoil is hard enough to seriously affect your handling, and its 40 bulk will generally limit you to a single reload. On the other hand, its sheer power and ammo capacity can sometimes outweigh its bulk. Best deployed on the [[Phoenix]].

[[Rocket Launcher]] - The Rocket Launcher is a sledgehammer of muscle weapons. Peeling 3 or 4 off an enemy with a single hit is very tempting, to say the least. But the 10-round clip means you’ll be reloading mid-fight, and you generally will only have room for a single reload. Having only 20 rounds of fire means you have to hit Every. Single. Time. Also, the large blast radius can make a lot of problems for you in a tight, up-close fight. If you have a Rapid Reload gunner and lots of ammo space, go for it.

[[Heavy Gatling Gun]] - Rare and powerful, the HGG is better mounted on an SUV than a muscle. Its fierce recoil will throw you all over the place.

[[Car Rifle]] - The Sniper’s Best Friend, the Car Rifle is feared for good reason. But in the high-speed muscle fights, you will NOT have enough time to line up a proper shot, and the 15-round magazine means you’ll have less sustained fire. Use a Medium Machine Gun unless you have some very skilled Snipers.

[[Flamethrower]] - The Flamethrower is another weapon that looks better on paper than it does in combat. As long as you’re running like you’re on fire, why not set everyone else on fire too? But unless you like being quite literally on fire, avoid the Flamethrower. Its damage is not high enough to justify its short range and small clip size. Also, ANY damage to the FT will set you on fire. Avoid unless you are making a suicide/novelty car.

One-Shots - I’m using this as a catchall for the [[Mini|Mini Rocket]], [[Light|Light Rocket]], [[Medium|Medium Rocket]], and [[Heavy|Heavy Rocket]] Rockets and their respective Racks and Pods. A One-Shot mounted next to your primary weapon can give a low-armor opponent a serious case of the breaches. Given that you’ll need to use your driver to man it and you only have a single shot with them, you need to time your shots carefully to hit an enemy’s weak side from close range. But a well-placed rocket can shorten a duel by several turns. My personal favorite is a toss-up between a [[Light Rocket Rack]] (3 shots, triple the fun!) and a single [[Heavy Rocket]]. (Make a Big Bang!)
As appealing as One-Shots are, NEVER compromise your primary firepower to fit in a bigger One-Shot. Your main weapon is your cake, your One-Shot is your icing.

== Section 2: Let’s Talk Tactics ==

=== Strategy and Combat Roles ===

Muscle tactics fall into four general areas: '''Kiting, Strafing, Dueling''' and '''Chasing'''. Which one of these you perform depends a great deal on the situation of the rest of your scout, so LISTEN to your squadmates. Clear communication can make the difference between a successful scout and a disaster.

*'''Kiting''' - Kiting is distracting the AI opponents. Run fast around them, OUTSIDE of their Line of Fire, and see who peels off to chase you. You don’t need to get the whole group’s attention, and every enemy that’s chasing you is one less that’s firing on your buddies. If none of them chase you, you can start '''Strafing''' their stragglers. If you only pull one enemy, you have a good chance to '''Duel''' it into submission, but if you have more than one, keep running until the rest of your squad is done with their portion and ready to peel them off of you. Kiting can also put you into position to '''Strafe''' stragglers or '''Clip''' artillery wagons.

*'''Strafing''' - Strafing is, in essence, attacking a group of enemies at high speed. Get your speed up - between 60 and 80 is ideal - and pick your closest target. Take several turns to plan out your approach, and check your target’s weapon arcs carefully. A rear strike is ideal on a [[Mutant Marauder]], but not a good idea against a [[Poltergeist]]. NEVER aim straight in at your target, aim slightly to one side. Keep your speed up as you make your attack run, fire a few times, then move on to the next target. You don’t need to kill your target, just sting it. Then you can move onto the next target or break off and set up for another run.

Related to strafing is '''Clipping'''. AI cars with Grenade Launchers and Mortars can be deadly because they tend to hide behind their consorts while showering a squad with high-explosive rain. But a muscle car or two can sometimes loop behind the consorts and knock out or distract an artillery vehicle. Even if the artillery is only distracted, you've bought your teammates a moment of respite from the falling shells.

Clipping an artillery car is risky, but can be done with enough speed. Drop your speed to 40 as you start firing, concentrate your fire on one armor facing, and get your teeth in. If the target or another car seems to be turning for you, accelerate out of danger, rinse, and repeat until your target is dead.

*'''Dueling''' - This is the opposite of Strafing. You’re getting in, going in for the kill, doing it for the thrill. As the name suggests, you’re going for a single opponent, and you’re not giving up until they’re dead in the desert.

First, know your opponent. Know exactly what weapons it has, know his firing arcs, and figure out how to get your teeth into him without getting bitten. In almost every duel, you WILL be outgunned, use your maneuverability to stay out of his fire zones. Taking some fire is all right, but spread it out among your sides, but focus your fire on one or two of his facets. Watch your ammunition level, and leave your opponent lamed and burning.

*'''Chasing''' - During trader hunts, this is where the muscle shows its true strengths. While your heavier allies are hammering the cargo escorts into scrap, your job is simple: keep the cargo from getting away.

Communicate with other chasers, make sure all of the runners are covered and none get to 350 meters.

Runners are fairly dumb AIs, they run away from the closest player. You can use this to your advantage if you can get one muscle in front of the pack, they’ll turn back toward your heavies or scatter into rough terrain. Most runners have heavy rear guns, so don’t get too close. With enough carnage among the escorts, traders will demoralize, but to maximize salvage, it’s a good idea to start shooting at traders when the escort is mostly demoralized. This increases the runners’ stress level and brings them closer to demoralizing. You DON’T want to actually breach them unless you’re in serious danger, but stressing them can shorten the scout by several turns.

Of all the cargo vehicles, [[Trade Runner]]s are the sole exception - you want to kill them, or at least silence their guns. They very rarely carry good cargo, and their heavy artillery can be lethal to chasers. The best tactic for bringing a Trade Runner down is to use two cars to go at its flanks and front and kill its engine. If you can't spare a second car, use terrain to shield yourself from its guns until you can get beside it. Get your teeth into its flank, and don't let go.

'''All-Muscle Squads'''

For an all-muscle squad, forming a line like a conventional scout squad is a recipe for suicide. I've found that the best strategy revolves around breaking your force into units of 2 or 3 cars each, and each attack group picks a target to duel. Running for a time is a good way to break an opposing force up, and then the attack groups can turn on individual enemies. Go in fast and hard, and kill the enemy as fast as possible.

=== Turn By Turn ===

Once the bullets start flying, fighting with a muscle becomes brutally simple: stay out of your enemy’s fire zones and keep your guns on your opponent. Have a working knowledge of the basic Somerset [[NPC Vehicles|NPC designs]] and what gun is on which facing. While avoiding fire is always a must, especially avoid rocket launchers, HMGs, and MMLs - the kinetic impact can badly affect your handling. Pick a target facing and pour your fire into it.

Knowing your car is especially important for muscle drivers. For your first couple outings with a chassis you’re not familiar with, take it out with a group on relatively low-risk scouts until you’re used to the handling. Alternately, load it into DW: Tactical and take it through some paces, get used to how it handles on sand and rock and asphalt.

'''The Slope Turn'''

Use terrain wisely. If you need to turn around quickly, you can climb up a slope and use it to shave a turn or two off your turning time. when front wheels are on the slope, turn your steering wheel all the way and keep it there until your front is below your back, and then start countersteering out. Be careful, as this can expose your top armor, but it's a useful trick.

'''Tactical Kiting'''

This is fancy verbiage for using your buddies as bait. Keep an eye on all your buddies - enemies who are going for your wingman can be vulnerable themselves to a sustained side or rear attack. And if an enemy is on your tail, you may be able to lure it into your allies' loving embrace, if you don't mind losing some armor in the doing.

'''A Note On The Handbrake'''

Used properly and sparingly, the handbrake can be the best medicine for a tight situation. But like all remedies, it's best used in moderation.

When you're moving at high speed in a tight turn, the handbrake can sometimes enable you to turn 180 or 270 degrees in a single turn, at the cost of a fair chunk of your speed. This can be very useful at the end of an attack run, but losing that much of your speed can be lethal. Use with caution.

== Chassis Appendix ==

[[Phoenix]] - The venerable Phoenix is probably your first muscle car, as it’s the most common in [[Somerset]], and even as you move onto better muscles, Phoenixes remain the best option for training drivers, because replacements can always be found. I’ve found them generally forgiving of newbie driving mistakes. Like all muscles, they have a tendency to drift and tend to lose armor to terrain.

[[Sunrise]] - The [[Phoenix]]’s twin. The [[Sunrise]] and [[Phoenix]] are identical in the garage, with identical armor, engine, and bulk characteristics. But out in the wild, the Sunrise is quite different from its sibling. The Sunrise tends to handle differently, softer and with a pronounced drift. After turning at high speed, it’s not uncommon to drift on your original course for several turns. The Sunrise demands planning four or five turns ahead. For all its faults, the [[Sunrise]] is marginally faster than the Phoenix and tends to lose less armor to terrain.

[[Voyager]] - The Voyager's a controversial muscle, sitting where it does right on the border between the the muscles and sedans, but with a 3.2L engine and light weapons, it's a joy to drive. A bit slippery offroad, it boasts a very tight turning radius and the largest killware space of any of the common muscles, but beware its lighter armor. One good setup uses twin [[Machine Gun]]s or [[Gatling Gun]]s to make a versatile interceptor with room for lots of spare ammo or a second gunner to carry home the loot. Drop the tire pressure and increase the length and stiffness a few points, and use it for hit and run attacks. For extra firepower, try a [[Rocket Launcher]]/[[Gatling Gun]] or a [[Micromissile Launcher]]/[[Medium Machine Gun]].

[[Vampire]] - It’s easy to see the rental [[Desert Striker]] as representative of the Vampire, even to take it for a spin, but the rental’s Standard Tyres cripple the Striker’s beautiful possibilities, and lead many to underestimate this beautiful interceptor. The Vampire drives like a [[Phoenix]] on steroids, but the increased responsiveness comes at the cost of 10 bulk. The [[Desert Striker]] build is almost overgunned, because with the [[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]], you don’t have room for a single reload with a gunner. Switching the HMG for an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], you make one of the best combat cars in Evan, because then you can fit in a gunner, a reload and a [[Light Rocket]]. This build is one I’ve used to solo-kill [[Poltergeist|Poltergeists]] and [[Mutant Bomber|Mutant Bombers]], and once scored three kills in a single scout. The Vampire truly shines with a 3.2 v8 under the hood, which lets you fit in a [[Medium Rocket Rack]].
On the other hand, the Vampire seems to be a bit more fragile than the [[Phoenix]], so use it with care.

[[Bullet]] - It’s easy to dismiss the Bullet as a Redneck Racer, since it is a Ford Fusion, the NASCAR car. But I’ve found the Bullet to be a surprisingly flexible hunter on the battlefield. It’s a fair sight faster than either the [[Phoenix]] or the [[Sunrise]], and very maneuverable. With a good driver, I feel like my Bullet is reading my mind, like it’ll do precisely what I ask it to, with a minimum of drifting. Low bulk is certainly an issue, but with a [[Medium Machine Gun]] and a [[Mini Rocket Pod]] or a [[Light Rocket]], the Bullet is a nasty little predator. Like the [[Vampire]], the Bullet truly shines with a V8 under the hood, which frees up space for more ammo or weaponry.

[[Buccaneer]] - The Bucky is one of the larger muscle cars, but it also has a slightly lower armor value. On the other hand, being able to fit a 5L engine, a MMG, and a gunner in makes it SPEEDY. Or you can fit in a 4L and free up 20 bulk for reloads, One-Shots, or even a secondary Gatling for your driver. I’ve seen a few people mount an [[Anti-Tank Gun]] in a Buccaneer, but that takes it out of the Muscle category and places it into a Sedan class, tactically, because there is NO WAY you can maintain speed and control while firing an ATG.

[[Flash]] - The Mini Muscle. With a 2L engine, it’s almost as fast as a 4L Phoenix, and it is so light and fast that it’s a joy to drive. The downside is, you have paper armor, not much of it, and you will have 40 bulk with a gunner. That’s enough for a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], a reload, and a Light Rocket. I wouldn’t recommend mounting anything heavier than a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] on this chassis, it’s very susceptible to recoil, and extremely fragile.

[[Pike]] - The [[Pike]] is the [[Sunrise]]’s bigger, nastier brother. If you think a Sunrise is too bouncy, walk straight past this baby. Fire 1 shot from a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] and watch this thing bounce for 4 turns. Sitting still and getting shot will leave you bouncing wildly and struggling for traction and any ability of escape. Even under MML or MG fire you may find yourself stuck for 4-5 seconds hoping it doesn't roll. All that said, it drives over the rough stuff real well (with care) and is fast. Takes some time to get used to the handling (ghost)and tends to understeer heaps into a corner (especially if you fill its huge engine bay with motor) and oversteer once it does start to turn. Once you do get used to this though and drive accordingly, shes a dream to drive and low speed maneuverability is amazing. Reasonable armour. - Bastiel

[[Flail]] - The [[Flail]] has almost sedan-like bulk available and heavy armor. Well, it's more like driving a mini SUV than a musclecar depending on how you arm it, but for a musclecar, boy does it have a lot of armor and almost as much capacity as the [[Osprey]] - FireFly

I've found the Flail a very versatile car if used properly. It's easy to look at all that bulk and armor and think of it as a 'win button.' It isn't. Make a wrong move in the Flail, and you'll be lucky to live to regret it. With a 4L under the hood, its acceleration is substandard, and it really needs a 5L or better for optimal performance. Its maneuvering isn't bad, but like a lot of sedans, its best maneuvering happens under 30 MPH. Use it like a Phoenix or sunrise, and your Flail will die. Use it as a heavy support car to back up your lighter muscles, and it will serve you very well.

The [[Flail]] also has a wide turning radius that should be accounted for. With a 3.2Lv8 and a HCR or Laser it makes a good sniper. - Tango

[[Osprey]] - It has decent handling, not the best, but there are worse. The main issue is that if you get locked into a slide, it can take some turns to get back to moving straight. The main strength lies in it's huge capacity, with a crew of 2 and a 3.2lv8, you still have room for 110 bulk worth of weapons, for example, a [[Heavy Car Rifle|HCR]]/[[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]] combo works surprisingly well, but the real fun with that is that it's the most heavily armed musclecar around, and kicks the living snot out of other muscles, if you can handle the weight... - FireFly

[[Roadrunner]] - It handles like a heavy Phoenix. It has the chassis strength of a [[Chomper]]. With the addition of a HUGE motor capacity, this car might fly if not for the downforce supplied by the extraordinarily large rear wing.

It is VERY rare to find one of these beautiful cars. You might not want to risk it ANYWHERE once you do find it.
If you do find one, you`ll be pleasantly surprised at it`s armor capacity and bulk available. - JD Basher

[[Moray]] - No middle ground really, people seem to either love them or hate them. Morays are a bit pricey for something with less armour than a [[Phoenix|Pho,]] but they will take a 5LV8 unexposed, making them a speedy travel car.
They do VERY well with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Like the [[Sunrise]], they can be a bit drifty at high speeds, do not expect radical changes in direction, and this chassis can be quite unforgiving if you oversteer, though they rarely turtle.
There is, however, definitely a learning curve to overcome when using this chassis.
Expect to spin out and lose all of your momentum if you expect too much.

At slower speeds, such as when the dogfight has gone to hell, you can get a 90 degree turn out of this car, easily, assuming you have no major recoil happening from weapons fire, and a good bit more if you like using the handbrake. You can stay inside the turning arc of most NPC vehicles with ease, chewing away at them the whole time. As with all muscle cars, recoil can be an issue with heavier weapons.
Personally, after a good bit of trial and error, I have found that an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Machine Gun|MG]] combo works very well. An [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Micromissile Launcher|MMLs]] combo is effective as well, but one must keep in mind the ammo limitations [[Micromissile Launcher|MML]] have.
As with any muscle car, DON'T STOP unless it's going to give you a BIG tactical advantage.
The [[Moray]] can be a bit more forgiving in slow speed situations than other muscle cars due to it's tight turning radius, but it's best not to get INTO that situation if you don't have to. -Rev. V

[[Corghette]] - A dead sexy little racer - the Corghette is closest in handling to a tighter [[Vampire]] with one major difference. On rough terrain, it's entirely possible to get the Corghette stuck nose-and-tail on terrain, with none of its tires in contact with the ground. If it doesn't get stuck, it's a very responsive and deadly car, with 5 more bulk than the [[Vampire]]. Like the [[Vampire]], the Corghette shines with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Properly handled with an eye for terrain, the Corgy will serve you very well.

[[Category: Guides]]

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2012-02-18T05:29:05Z

Fifth: /* Setting Up */

The muscle car is one of the true joys of Darkwind. Neither well armored nor well armed, its primary asset in the wilderness is its speed and maneuverability. Wilderness battles have been won against enormous odds because of one or two well-employed muscle cars.

Muscles are also indispensable for hunting Traders, because only muscle cars can chase down and corral fleeing cargo vehicles.

But muscle cars are terribly vulnerable when exchanging fire with the enemy, due to their light armor and weapon loads, and their high speed can be as much a vulnerability as an asset. The difference between a victorious muscle and a very fast coffin is forethought and planning.

This manual is broken into several sections. First I’ll go over what a muscle car is, and setting up your muscle, and I’ll go over different weapons. Then will be basic strategies and tactics, and I’ll close with the Chassis Appendix, going over the chassis one by one.

== Section 1: Setting Up ==

=== What Is (And Isn’t) A Muscle? ===

A muscle is a midsize car that can mount a big engine unexposed. The [[Windsor]] and [[Windsor II]] are not muscles. No car with an exposed engine should be considered a muscle, as they are too vulnerable to survive in a combat zone. Here’s a (partial) list of muscle chassis:

*[[Phoenix]]
*[[Sunrise]]
*[[Vampire]]
*[[Pike]]
*[[Bullet]]
*[[Buccaneer]]
*[[Roadrunner]]
*[[Moray]]
*[[Flail]]
*[[Osprey]]
*[[Stormer]]
*[[Flash]]
*[[Corghette]]

All of these, other than the Flash, can mount a 4L or larger engine unexposed. The Flash is included because of its sheer speed and ability to accept an engine disproportionately large for its size. I’ll go into each of these chassis in detail in the Chassis Appendix.

=== Setting Up ===

'''Engine'''
In general, you want at least a 4L engine or a 3.2LV8. A full-sized muscle with a 3.2L engine isn’t a muscle at all, it’s a coffin. Some engines can handle a 5L, but keep an eye on the bulk used for weapons and ammo.

'''Armor'''
Max out your front, put 5 on your top and bottom, and distribute the rest evenly between your sides and rear. Class B - NEVER C. A-class armor is tempting and gives a nice speed boost, but is awfully expensive to keep repaired.

'''Fuel'''
A 2-unit tank is sufficient for most muscle operations. An extra unit or two on top of that can enable your muscle scouts to go further out and improve your odds.

'''Tyres'''
Offroad all the way. Handling is everything to a muscle. The exception to this is if you’re working in rough terrain, then you need Reinforced.

'''Crew'''
Driver and gunner. Putting in 2 gunners takes up too much valuable space. Your driver should have at least 20 skill, but 40 is really preferred. With more driving skill, you’ll accelerate faster and you’ll be more stable. Your gunner should have at least some Gunnery skill, but muscles are a good way to train gunners. Defensive Driver is a great specialism for muscle drivers, as is Deathracer.

'''Suspension'''
Suspension settings are different for every chassis and weapon load, but one thing is true across the board: increasing tyre pressure will give you increased acceleration at lower speeds, under about 40MPH, but you will lose some control at the top end. Increased tyre pressure is highly recommended for vehicles that spend time in lower-speed dogfights. Past that, experiment with your cars to find a suspension setting that fits your style.

'''Weapons'''
Front, front, front. You want your weapons on the FRONT. Side mounts are possible, but not generally recommended. Rear mounts sound good on paper, but they’re actually very difficult to use in practice.

Here’s your menu of killware:

[[Machine Gun]] - The vanilla option. Don’t knock it, a pair of these on the front of a muscle can really chew through enemy armor over the long run, and they have decent range and accuracy. The downside is, you need a pair to make a decent punch, and your driver will have to man one of them. Your accuracy with that gun will be lower.

[[Gatling Gun]] - The [[Machine Gun]] on steroids. The downside is, its range is shorter and you NEED two of them to make a decent punch, so your driver better have decent Gunnery skills. Watch out for the increased recoil - sustained fire can really slow you down.

[[Micromissile Launcher]] - Like the Machine Gun and Gatling Gun, the MML is small enough to be fitted in pairs, or mixed with a MG or GG. However, I don’t recommend doing so. Having an explosive round is useful in some cases, but there isn’t enough punch to outweigh the low ammunition capacity. Some chassis can accept a MML alongside a [[Medium Machine Gun]] as a driver-controlled secondary weapon, and this is an enormously effective build at short range.

[[Medium Machine Gun]] - My favorite muscle weapon. Decent damage, manageable recoil, good ammo supply, and low bulk. You will NOT have enough room for 2 of them, except on the larger cars, but that’s not a bad thing, you’ll be able to fit several reloads or a One-Shot secondary. Putting in just one gun lets your gunner concentrate on killing properly.

[[Heavy Machine Gun]] - One of the heaviest weapons available to muscles, the HMG should be deployed with care. Its recoil is hard enough to seriously affect your handling, and its 40 bulk will generally limit you to a single reload. On the other hand, its sheer power and ammo capacity can sometimes outweigh its bulk. Best deployed on the [[Phoenix]].

[[Rocket Launcher]] - The Rocket Launcher is a sledgehammer of muscle weapons. Peeling 3 or 4 off an enemy with a single hit is very tempting, to say the least. But the 10-round clip means you’ll be reloading mid-fight, and you generally will only have room for a single reload. Having only 20 rounds of fire means you have to hit Every. Single. Time. Also, the large blast radius can make a lot of problems for you in a tight, up-close fight. If you have a Rapid Reload gunner and lots of ammo space, go for it.

[[Heavy Gatling Gun]] - Rare and powerful, the HGG is better mounted on an SUV than a muscle. Its fierce recoil will throw you all over the place.

[[Car Rifle]] - The Sniper’s Best Friend, the Car Rifle is feared for good reason. But in the high-speed muscle fights, you will NOT have enough time to line up a proper shot, and the 15-round magazine means you’ll have less sustained fire. Use a Medium Machine Gun unless you have some very skilled Snipers.

[[Flamethrower]] - The Flamethrower is another weapon that looks better on paper than it does in combat. As long as you’re running like you’re on fire, why not set everyone else on fire too? But unless you like being quite literally on fire, avoid the Flamethrower. Its damage is not high enough to justify its short range and small clip size. Also, ANY damage to the FT will set you on fire. Avoid unless you are making a suicide/novelty car.

One-Shots - I’m using this as a catchall for the [[Mini|Mini Rocket]], [[Light|Light Rocket]], [[Medium|Medium Rocket]], and [[Heavy|Heavy Rocket]] Rockets and their respective Racks and Pods. A One-Shot mounted next to your primary weapon can give a low-armor opponent a serious case of the breaches. Given that you’ll need to use your driver to man it and you only have a single shot with them, you need to time your shots carefully to hit an enemy’s weak side from close range. But a well-placed rocket can shorten a duel by several turns. My personal favorite is a toss-up between a [[Light Rocket Rack]] (3 shots, triple the fun!) and a single [[Heavy Rocket]]. (Make a Big Bang!)
As appealing as One-Shots are, NEVER compromise your primary firepower to fit in a bigger One-Shot. Your main weapon is your cake, your One-Shot is your icing.

== Section 2: Let’s Talk Tactics ==

=== Strategy and Combat Roles ===

Muscle tactics fall into four general areas: '''Kiting, Strafing, Dueling''' and '''Chasing'''. Which one of these you perform depends a great deal on the situation of the rest of your scout, so LISTEN to your squadmates. Clear communication can make the difference between a successful scout and a disaster.

*'''Kiting''' - Kiting is distracting the AI opponents. Run fast around them, OUTSIDE of their Line of Fire, and see who peels off to chase you. You don’t need to get the whole group’s attention, and every enemy that’s chasing you is one less that’s firing on your buddies. If none of them chase you, you can start '''Strafing''' their stragglers. If you only pull one enemy, you have a good chance to '''Duel''' it into submission, but if you have more than one, keep running until the rest of your squad is done with their portion and ready to peel them off of you. Kiting can also put you into position to '''Strafe''' stragglers or '''Clip''' artillery wagons.

*'''Strafing''' - Strafing is, in essence, attacking a group of enemies at high speed. Get your speed up - between 60 and 80 is ideal - and pick your closest target. Take several turns to plan out your approach, and check your target’s weapon arcs carefully. A rear strike is ideal on a [[Mutant Marauder]], but not a good idea against a [[Poltergeist]]. NEVER aim straight in at your target, aim slightly to one side. Keep your speed up as you make your attack run, fire a few times, then move on to the next target. You don’t need to kill your target, just sting it. Then you can move onto the next target or break off and set up for another run.

Related to strafing is '''Clipping'''. AI cars with Grenade Launchers and Mortars can be deadly because they tend to hide behind their consorts while showering a squad with high-explosive rain. But a muscle car or two can sometimes loop behind the consorts and knock out or distract an artillery vehicle. Even if the artillery is only distracted, you've bought your teammates a moment of respite from the falling shells.

Clipping an artillery car is risky, but can be done with enough speed. Drop your speed to 40 as you start firing, concentrate your fire on one armor facing, and get your teeth in. If the target or another car seems to be turning for you, accelerate out of danger, rinse, and repeat until your target is dead.

*'''Dueling''' - This is the opposite of Strafing. You’re getting in, going in for the kill, doing it for the thrill. As the name suggests, you’re going for a single opponent, and you’re not giving up until they’re dead in the desert.

First, know your opponent. Know exactly what weapons it has, know his firing arcs, and figure out how to get your teeth into him without getting bitten. In almost every duel, you WILL be outgunned, use your maneuverability to stay out of his fire zones. Taking some fire is all right, but spread it out among your sides, but focus your fire on one or two of his facets. Watch your ammunition level, and leave your opponent lamed and burning.

*'''Chasing''' - During trader hunts, this is where the muscle shows its true strengths. While your heavier allies are hammering the cargo escorts into scrap, your job is simple: keep the cargo from getting away.

Communicate with other chasers, make sure all of the runners are covered and none get to 350 meters.

Runners are fairly dumb AIs, they run away from the closest player. You can use this to your advantage if you can get one muscle in front of the pack, they’ll turn back toward your heavies or scatter into rough terrain. Most runners have heavy rear guns, so don’t get too close. With enough carnage among the escorts, traders will demoralize, but to maximize salvage, it’s a good idea to start shooting at traders when the escort is mostly demoralized. This increases the runners’ stress level and brings them closer to demoralizing. You DON’T want to actually breach them unless you’re in serious danger, but stressing them can shorten the scout by several turns.

Of all the cargo vehicles, [[Trade Runner]]s are the sole exception - you want to kill them, or at least silence their guns. They very rarely carry good cargo, and their heavy artillery can be lethal to chasers. The best tactic for bringing a Trade Runner down is to use two cars to go at its flanks and front and kill its engine. If you can't spare a second car, use terrain to shield yourself from its guns until you can get beside it. Get your teeth into its flank, and don't let go.

'''All-Muscle Squads'''

For an all-muscle squad, forming a line like a conventional scout squad is a recipe for suicide. I've found that the best strategy revolves around breaking your force into units of 2 or 3 cars each, and each attack group picks a target to duel. Running for a time is a good way to break an opposing force up, and then the attack groups can turn on individual enemies. Go in fast and hard, and kill the enemy as fast as possible.

=== Turn By Turn ===

Once the bullets start flying, fighting with a muscle becomes brutally simple: stay out of your enemy’s fire zones and keep your guns on your opponent. Have a working knowledge of the basic Somerset [[NPC Vehicles|NPC designs]] and what gun is on which facing. While avoiding fire is always a must, especially avoid rocket launchers, HMGs, and MMLs - the kinetic impact can badly affect your handling. Pick a target facing and pour your fire into it.

Knowing your car is especially important for muscle drivers. For your first couple outings with a chassis you’re not familiar with, take it out with a group on relatively low-risk scouts until you’re used to the handling. Alternately, load it into DW: Tactical and take it through some paces, get used to how it handles on sand and rock and asphalt.

'''The Slope Turn'''

Use terrain wisely. If you need to turn around quickly, you can climb up a slope and use it to shave a turn or two off your turning time. when front wheels are on the slope, turn your steering wheel all the way and keep it there until your front is below your back, and then start countersteering out. Be careful, as this can expose your top armor, but it's a useful trick.

'''Tactical Kiting'''

This is fancy verbiage for using your buddies as bait. Keep an eye on all your buddies - enemies who are going for your wingman can be vulnerable themselves to a sustained side or rear attack. And if an enemy is on your tail, you may be able to lure it into your allies' loving embrace, if you don't mind losing some armor in the doing.

'''A Note On The Handbrake'''

Used properly and sparingly, the handbrake can be the best medicine for a tight situation. But like all remedies, it's best used in moderation.

When you're moving at high speed in a tight turn, the handbrake can sometimes enable you to turn 180 or 270 degrees in a single turn, at the cost of a fair chunk of your speed. This can be very useful at the end of an attack run, but losing that much of your speed can be lethal. Use with caution.

== Chassis Appendix ==

[[Phoenix]] - The venerable Phoenix is probably your first muscle car, as it’s the most common in [[Somerset]], and even as you move onto better muscles, Phoenixes remain the best option for training drivers, because replacements can always be found. I’ve found them generally forgiving of newbie driving mistakes. Like all muscles, they have a tendency to drift and tend to lose armor to terrain.

[[Sunrise]] - The [[Phoenix]]’s twin. The [[Sunrise]] and [[Phoenix]] are identical in the garage, with identical armor, engine, and bulk characteristics. But out in the wild, the Sunrise is quite different from its sibling. The Sunrise tends to handle differently, softer and with a pronounced drift. After turning at high speed, it’s not uncommon to drift on your original course for several turns. The Sunrise demands planning four or five turns ahead. For all its faults, the [[Sunrise]] is marginally faster than the Phoenix and tends to lose less armor to terrain.

[[Voyager]] - The Voyager's a controversial muscle, sitting where it does right on the border between the the muscles and sedans, but with a 3.2L engine and light weapons, it's a joy to drive. A bit slippery offroad, it boasts a very tight turning radius and the largest killware space of any of the common muscles, but beware its lighter armor. One good setup uses twin [[Machine Gun]]s or [[Gatling Gun]]s to make a versatile interceptor with room for lots of spare ammo or a second gunner to carry home the loot. Drop the tire pressure and increase the length and stiffness a few points, and use it for hit and run attacks. For extra firepower, try a [[Rocket Launcher]]/[[Gatling Gun]] or a [[Micromissile Launcher]]/[[Medium Machine Gun]].

[[Vampire]] - It’s easy to see the rental [[Desert Striker]] as representative of the Vampire, even to take it for a spin, but the rental’s Standard Tyres cripple the Striker’s beautiful possibilities, and lead many to underestimate this beautiful interceptor. The Vampire drives like a [[Phoenix]] on steroids, but the increased responsiveness comes at the cost of 10 bulk. The [[Desert Striker]] build is almost overgunned, because with the [[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]], you don’t have room for a single reload with a gunner. Switching the HMG for an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], you make one of the best combat cars in Evan, because then you can fit in a gunner, a reload and a [[Light Rocket]]. This build is one I’ve used to solo-kill [[Poltergeist|Poltergeists]] and [[Mutant Bomber|Mutant Bombers]], and once scored three kills in a single scout. The Vampire truly shines with a 3.2 v8 under the hood, which lets you fit in a [[Medium Rocket Rack]].
On the other hand, the Vampire seems to be a bit more fragile than the [[Phoenix]], so use it with care.

[[Bullet]] - It’s easy to dismiss the Bullet as a Redneck Racer, since it is a Ford Fusion, the NASCAR car. But I’ve found the Bullet to be a surprisingly flexible hunter on the battlefield. It’s a fair sight faster than either the [[Phoenix]] or the [[Sunrise]], and very maneuverable. With a good driver, I feel like my Bullet is reading my mind, like it’ll do precisely what I ask it to, with a minimum of drifting. Low bulk is certainly an issue, but with a [[Medium Machine Gun]] and a [[Mini Rocket Pod]] or a [[Light Rocket]], the Bullet is a nasty little predator. Like the [[Vampire]], the Bullet truly shines with a V8 under the hood, which frees up space for more ammo or weaponry.

[[Buccaneer]] - The Bucky is one of the larger muscle cars, but it also has a slightly lower armor value. On the other hand, being able to fit a 5L engine, a MMG, and a gunner in makes it SPEEDY. Or you can fit in a 4L and free up 20 bulk for reloads, One-Shots, or even a secondary Gatling for your driver. I’ve seen a few people mount an [[Anti-Tank Gun]] in a Buccaneer, but that takes it out of the Muscle category and places it into a Sedan class, tactically, because there is NO WAY you can maintain speed and control while firing an ATG.

[[Flash]] - The Mini Muscle. With a 2L engine, it’s almost as fast as a 4L Phoenix, and it is so light and fast that it’s a joy to drive. The downside is, you have paper armor, not much of it, and you will have 40 bulk with a gunner. That’s enough for a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], a reload, and a Light Rocket. I wouldn’t recommend mounting anything heavier than a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] on this chassis, it’s very susceptible to recoil, and extremely fragile.

[[Pike]] - The [[Pike]] is the [[Sunrise]]’s bigger, nastier brother. If you think a Sunrise is too bouncy, walk straight past this baby. Fire 1 shot from a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] and watch this thing bounce for 4 turns. Sitting still and getting shot will leave you bouncing wildly and struggling for traction and any ability of escape. Even under MML or MG fire you may find yourself stuck for 4-5 seconds hoping it doesn't roll. All that said, it drives over the rough stuff real well (with care) and is fast. Takes some time to get used to the handling (ghost)and tends to understeer heaps into a corner (especially if you fill its huge engine bay with motor) and oversteer once it does start to turn. Once you do get used to this though and drive accordingly, shes a dream to drive and low speed maneuverability is amazing. Reasonable armour. - Bastiel

[[Flail]] - The [[Flail]] has almost sedan-like bulk available and heavy armor. Well, it's more like driving a mini SUV than a musclecar depending on how you arm it, but for a musclecar, boy does it have a lot of armor and almost as much capacity as the [[Osprey]] - FireFly

I've found the Flail a very versatile car if used properly. It's easy to look at all that bulk and armor and think of it as a 'win button.' It isn't. Make a wrong move in the Flail, and you'll be lucky to live to regret it. With a 4L under the hood, its acceleration is substandard, and it really needs a 5L or better for optimal performance. Its maneuvering isn't bad, but like a lot of sedans, its best maneuvering happens under 30 MPH. Use it like a Phoenix or sunrise, and your Flail will die. Use it as a heavy support car to back up your lighter muscles, and it will serve you very well.

The [[Flail]] also has a wide turning radius that should be accounted for. With a 3.2Lv8 and a HCR or Laser it makes a good sniper. - Tango

[[Osprey]] - It has decent handling, not the best, but there are worse. The main issue is that if you get locked into a slide, it can take some turns to get back to moving straight. The main strength lies in it's huge capacity, with a crew of 2 and a 3.2lv8, you still have room for 110 bulk worth of weapons, for example, a [[Heavy Car Rifle|HCR]]/[[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]] combo works surprisingly well, but the real fun with that is that it's the most heavily armed musclecar around, and kicks the living snot out of other muscles, if you can handle the weight... - FireFly

[[Roadrunner]] - It handles like a heavy Phoenix. It has the chassis strength of a [[Chomper]]. With the addition of a HUGE motor capacity, this car might fly if not for the downforce supplied by the extraordinarily large rear wing.

It is VERY rare to find one of these beautiful cars. You might not want to risk it ANYWHERE once you do find it.
If you do find one, you`ll be pleasantly surprised at it`s armor capacity and bulk available. - JD Basher

[[Moray]] - No middle ground really, people seem to either love them or hate them. Morays are a bit pricey for something with less armour than a [[Phoenix|Pho,]] but they will take a 5LV8 unexposed, making them a speedy travel car.
They do VERY well with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Like the [[Sunrise]], they can be a bit drifty at high speeds, do not expect radical changes in direction, and this chassis can be quite unforgiving if you oversteer, though they rarely turtle.
There is, however, definitely a learning curve to overcome when using this chassis.
Expect to spin out and lose all of your momentum if you expect too much.

At slower speeds, such as when the dogfight has gone to hell, you can get a 90 degree turn out of this car, easily, assuming you have no major recoil happening from weapons fire, and a good bit more if you like using the handbrake. You can stay inside the turning arc of most NPC vehicles with ease, chewing away at them the whole time. As with all muscle cars, recoil can be an issue with heavier weapons.
Personally, after a good bit of trial and error, I have found that an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Machine Gun|MG]] combo works very well. An [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Micromissile Launcher|MMLs]] combo is effective as well, but one must keep in mind the ammo limitations [[Micromissile Launcher|MML]] have.
As with any muscle car, DON'T STOP unless it's going to give you a BIG tactical advantage.
The [[Moray]] can be a bit more forgiving in slow speed situations than other muscle cars due to it's tight turning radius, but it's best not to get INTO that situation if you don't have to. -Rev. V

[[Corghette]] - A dead sexy little racer - the Corghette is closest in handling to a tighter [[Vampire]] with one major difference. On rough terrain, it's entirely possible to get the Corghette stuck nose-and-tail on terrain, with none of its tires in contact with the ground. If it doesn't get stuck, it's a very responsive and deadly car, with 5 more bulk than the [[Vampire]]. Like the [[Vampire]], the Corghette shines with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Properly handled with an eye for terrain, the Corgy will serve you very well.

[[Category: Guides]]

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2012-02-18T05:20:46Z

Fifth: /* Chassis Appendix */ - Added Voyager, expanded Flail, edited Vampire and Bullet.

The muscle car is one of the true joys of Darkwind. Neither well armored nor well armed, its primary asset in the wilderness is its speed and maneuverability. Wilderness battles have been won against enormous odds because of one or two well-employed muscle cars.

Muscles are also indispensable for hunting Traders, because only muscle cars can chase down and corral fleeing cargo vehicles.

But muscle cars are terribly vulnerable when exchanging fire with the enemy, due to their light armor and weapon loads, and their high speed can be as much a vulnerability as an asset. The difference between a victorious muscle and a very fast coffin is forethought and planning.

This manual is broken into several sections. First I’ll go over what a muscle car is, and setting up your muscle, and I’ll go over different weapons. Then will be basic strategies and tactics, and I’ll close with the Chassis Appendix, going over the chassis one by one.

== Section 1: Setting Up ==

=== What Is (And Isn’t) A Muscle? ===

A muscle is a midsize car that can mount a big engine unexposed. The [[Windsor]] and [[Windsor II]] are not muscles. No car with an exposed engine should be considered a muscle, as they are too vulnerable to survive in a combat zone. Here’s a (partial) list of muscle chassis:

*[[Phoenix]]
*[[Sunrise]]
*[[Vampire]]
*[[Pike]]
*[[Bullet]]
*[[Buccaneer]]
*[[Roadrunner]]
*[[Moray]]
*[[Flail]]
*[[Osprey]]
*[[Stormer]]
*[[Flash]]
*[[Corghette]]

All of these, other than the Flash, can mount a 4L or larger engine unexposed. The Flash is included because of its sheer speed and ability to accept an engine disproportionately large for its size. I’ll go into each of these chassis in detail in the Chassis Appendix.

=== Setting Up ===

'''Engine'''
In general, you want at least a 4L engine or a 3.2LV8. A full-sized muscle with a 3.2L engine isn’t a muscle at all, it’s a coffin.

'''Armor'''
Max out your front, put 5 on your top and bottom, and distribute the rest evenly between your sides and rear. Class B - NEVER C. A-class armor is tempting and gives a nice speed boost, but is awfully expensive to keep repaired.

'''Fuel'''
A 2-unit tank is sufficient for most muscle operations. An extra unit or two on top of that can enable your muscle scouts to go further out and improve your odds.

'''Tyres'''
Offroad all the way. Handling is everything to a muscle. The exception to this is if you’re working in rough terrain, then you need Reinforced.

'''Crew'''
Driver and gunner. Putting in 2 gunners takes up too much valuable space. Your driver should have at least 20 skill, but 40 is really preferred. With more driving skill, you’ll accelerate faster and you’ll be more stable. Your gunner should have at least some Gunnery skill, but muscles are a good way to train gunners.

'''Weapons'''
Front, front, front. You want your weapons on the FRONT. Side mounts are possible, but not generally recommended. Rear mounts sound good on paper, but they’re actually very difficult to use in practice.

Here’s your menu of killware:

[[Machine Gun]] - The vanilla option. Don’t knock it, a pair of these on the front of a muscle can really chew through enemy armor over the long run, and they have decent range and accuracy. The downside is, you need a pair to make a decent punch, and your driver will have to man one of them. Your accuracy with that gun will be lower.

[[Gatling Gun]] - The [[Machine Gun]] on steroids. The downside is, its range is shorter and you NEED two of them to make a decent punch, so your driver better have decent Gunnery skills. Watch out for the increased recoil - sustained fire can really slow you down.

[[Micromissile Launcher]] - Like the Machine Gun and Gatling Gun, the MML is small enough to be fitted in pairs, or mixed with a MG or GG. However, I don’t recommend doing so. Having an explosive round is useful in some cases, but there isn’t enough punch to outweigh the low ammunition capacity. Some chassis can accept a MML alongside a [[Medium Machine Gun]] as a driver-controlled secondary weapon, and this is an enormously effective build at short range.

[[Medium Machine Gun]] - My favorite muscle weapon. Decent damage, manageable recoil, good ammo supply, and low bulk. You will NOT have enough room for 2 of them, but that’s not a bad thing, you’ll be able to fit several reloads or a One-Shot secondary. Putting in just one gun lets your gunner concentrate on killing properly.

[[Heavy Machine Gun]] - One of the heaviest weapons available to muscles, the HMG should be deployed with care. Its recoil is hard enough to seriously affect your handling, and its 40 bulk will generally limit you to a single reload. On the other hand, its sheer power and ammo capacity can sometimes outweigh its bulk.

[[Rocket Launcher]] - The Rocket Launcher is a sledgehammer of muscle weapons. Peeling 3 or 4 off an enemy with a single hit is very tempting, to say the least. But the 10-round clip means you’ll be reloading mid-fight, and you generally will only have room for a single reload. Having only 20 rounds of fire means you have to hit Every. Single. Time. Also, the large blast radius can make a lot of problems for you in a tight, up-close fight.

[[Heavy Gatling Gun]] - Rare and powerful, the HGG is better mounted on an SUV than a muscle. Its fierce recoil will throw you all over the place.

[[Car Rifle]] - The Sniper’s Best Friend, the Car Rifle is feared for good reason. But in the high-speed muscle fights, you will NOT have enough time to line up a proper shot, and the 15-round magazine means you’ll have less sustained fire. Use a Medium Machine Gun unless you have some very skilled Snipers.

[[Flamethrower]] - The Flamethrower is another weapon that looks better on paper than it does in combat. As long as you’re running like you’re on fire, why not set everyone else on fire too? But unless you like being quite literally on fire, avoid the Flamethrower. Its damage is not high enough to justify its short range and small clip size. Also, ANY damage to the FT will set you on fire. Avoid unless you are making a suicide/novelty car.

One-Shots - I’m using this as a catchall for the [[Mini|Mini Rocket]], [[Light|Light Rocket]], [[Medium|Medium Rocket]], and [[Heavy|Heavy Rocket]] Rockets and their respective Racks and Pods. A One-Shot mounted next to your primary weapon can give a low-armor opponent a serious case of the breaches. Given that you’ll need to use your driver to man it and you only have a single shot with them, you need to time your shots carefully to hit an enemy’s weak side from close range. But a well-placed rocket can shorten a duel by several turns. My personal favorite is a toss-up between a [[Light Rocket Rack]] (3 shots, triple the fun!) and a single [[Heavy Rocket]]. (Make a Big Bang!)
As appealing as One-Shots are, NEVER compromise your primary firepower to fit in a bigger One-Shot. Your main weapon is your cake, your One-Shot is your icing.

== Section 2: Let’s Talk Tactics ==

=== Strategy and Combat Roles ===

Muscle tactics fall into four general areas: '''Kiting, Strafing, Dueling''' and '''Chasing'''. Which one of these you perform depends a great deal on the situation of the rest of your scout, so LISTEN to your squadmates. Clear communication can make the difference between a successful scout and a disaster.

*'''Kiting''' - Kiting is distracting the AI opponents. Run fast around them, OUTSIDE of their Line of Fire, and see who peels off to chase you. You don’t need to get the whole group’s attention, and every enemy that’s chasing you is one less that’s firing on your buddies. If none of them chase you, you can start '''Strafing''' their stragglers. If you only pull one enemy, you have a good chance to '''Duel''' it into submission, but if you have more than one, keep running until the rest of your squad is done with their portion and ready to peel them off of you. Kiting can also put you into position to '''Strafe''' stragglers or '''Clip''' artillery wagons.

*'''Strafing''' - Strafing is, in essence, attacking a group of enemies at high speed. Get your speed up - between 60 and 80 is ideal - and pick your closest target. Take several turns to plan out your approach, and check your target’s weapon arcs carefully. A rear strike is ideal on a [[Mutant Marauder]], but not a good idea against a [[Poltergeist]]. NEVER aim straight in at your target, aim slightly to one side. Keep your speed up as you make your attack run, fire a few times, then move on to the next target. You don’t need to kill your target, just sting it. Then you can move onto the next target or break off and set up for another run.

Related to strafing is '''Clipping'''. AI cars with Grenade Launchers and Mortars can be deadly because they tend to hide behind their consorts while showering a squad with high-explosive rain. But a muscle car or two can sometimes loop behind the consorts and knock out or distract an artillery vehicle. Even if the artillery is only distracted, you've bought your teammates a moment of respite from the falling shells.

Clipping an artillery car is risky, but can be done with enough speed. Drop your speed to 40 as you start firing, concentrate your fire on one armor facing, and get your teeth in. If the target or another car seems to be turning for you, accelerate out of danger, rinse, and repeat until your target is dead.

*'''Dueling''' - This is the opposite of Strafing. You’re getting in, going in for the kill, doing it for the thrill. As the name suggests, you’re going for a single opponent, and you’re not giving up until they’re dead in the desert.

First, know your opponent. Know exactly what weapons it has, know his firing arcs, and figure out how to get your teeth into him without getting bitten. In almost every duel, you WILL be outgunned, use your maneuverability to stay out of his fire zones. Taking some fire is all right, but spread it out among your sides, but focus your fire on one or two of his facets. Watch your ammunition level, and leave your opponent lamed and burning.

*'''Chasing''' - During trader hunts, this is where the muscle shows its true strengths. While your heavier allies are hammering the cargo escorts into scrap, your job is simple: keep the cargo from getting away.

Communicate with other chasers, make sure all of the runners are covered and none get to 350 meters.

Runners are fairly dumb AIs, they run away from the closest player. You can use this to your advantage if you can get one muscle in front of the pack, they’ll turn back toward your heavies or scatter into rough terrain. Most runners have heavy rear guns, so don’t get too close. With enough carnage among the escorts, traders will demoralize, but to maximize salvage, it’s a good idea to start shooting at traders when the escort is mostly demoralized. This increases the runners’ stress level and brings them closer to demoralizing. You DON’T want to actually breach them unless you’re in serious danger, but stressing them can shorten the scout by several turns.

Of all the cargo vehicles, [[Trade Runner]]s are the sole exception - you want to kill them, or at least silence their guns. They very rarely carry good cargo, and their heavy artillery can be lethal to chasers. The best tactic for bringing a Trade Runner down is to use two cars to go at its flanks and front and kill its engine. If you can't spare a second car, use terrain to shield yourself from its guns until you can get beside it. Get your teeth into its flank, and don't let go.

'''All-Muscle Squads'''

For an all-muscle squad, forming a line like a conventional scout squad is a recipe for suicide. I've found that the best strategy revolves around breaking your force into units of 2 or 3 cars each, and each attack group picks a target to duel. Running for a time is a good way to break an opposing force up, and then the attack groups can turn on individual enemies. Go in fast and hard, and kill the enemy as fast as possible.

=== Turn By Turn ===

Once the bullets start flying, fighting with a muscle becomes brutally simple: stay out of your enemy’s fire zones and keep your guns on your opponent. Have a working knowledge of the basic Somerset [[NPC Vehicles|NPC designs]] and what gun is on which facing. While avoiding fire is always a must, especially avoid rocket launchers, HMGs, and MMLs - the kinetic impact can badly affect your handling. Pick a target facing and pour your fire into it.

Knowing your car is especially important for muscle drivers. For your first couple outings with a chassis you’re not familiar with, take it out with a group on relatively low-risk scouts until you’re used to the handling. Alternately, load it into DW: Tactical and take it through some paces, get used to how it handles on sand and rock and asphalt.

'''The Slope Turn'''

Use terrain wisely. If you need to turn around quickly, you can climb up a slope and use it to shave a turn or two off your turning time. when front wheels are on the slope, turn your steering wheel all the way and keep it there until your front is below your back, and then start countersteering out. Be careful, as this can expose your top armor, but it's a useful trick.

'''Tactical Kiting'''

This is fancy verbiage for using your buddies as bait. Keep an eye on all your buddies - enemies who are going for your wingman can be vulnerable themselves to a sustained side or rear attack. And if an enemy is on your tail, you may be able to lure it into your allies' loving embrace, if you don't mind losing some armor in the doing.

'''A Note On The Handbrake'''

Used properly and sparingly, the handbrake can be the best medicine for a tight situation. But like all remedies, it's best used in moderation.

When you're moving at high speed in a tight turn, the handbrake can sometimes enable you to turn 180 or 270 degrees in a single turn, at the cost of a fair chunk of your speed. This can be very useful at the end of an attack run, but losing that much of your speed can be lethal. Use with caution.

== Chassis Appendix ==

[[Phoenix]] - The venerable Phoenix is probably your first muscle car, as it’s the most common in [[Somerset]], and even as you move onto better muscles, Phoenixes remain the best option for training drivers, because replacements can always be found. I’ve found them generally forgiving of newbie driving mistakes. Like all muscles, they have a tendency to drift and tend to lose armor to terrain.

[[Sunrise]] - The [[Phoenix]]’s twin. The [[Sunrise]] and [[Phoenix]] are identical in the garage, with identical armor, engine, and bulk characteristics. But out in the wild, the Sunrise is quite different from its sibling. The Sunrise tends to handle differently, softer and with a pronounced drift. After turning at high speed, it’s not uncommon to drift on your original course for several turns. The Sunrise demands planning four or five turns ahead. For all its faults, the [[Sunrise]] is marginally faster than the Phoenix and tends to lose less armor to terrain.

[[Voyager]] - The Voyager's a controversial muscle, sitting where it does right on the border between the the muscles and sedans, but with a 3.2L engine and light weapons, it's a joy to drive. A bit slippery offroad, it boasts a very tight turning radius and the largest killware space of any of the common muscles, but beware its lighter armor. One good setup uses twin [[Machine Gun]]s or [[Gatling Gun]]s to make a versatile interceptor with room for lots of spare ammo or a second gunner to carry home the loot. Drop the tire pressure and increase the length and stiffness a few points, and use it for hit and run attacks. For extra firepower, try a [[Rocket Launcher]]/[[Gatling Gun]] or a [[Micromissile Launcher]]/[[Medium Machine Gun]].

[[Vampire]] - It’s easy to see the rental [[Desert Striker]] as representative of the Vampire, even to take it for a spin, but the rental’s Standard Tyres cripple the Striker’s beautiful possibilities, and lead many to underestimate this beautiful interceptor. The Vampire drives like a [[Phoenix]] on steroids, but the increased responsiveness comes at the cost of 10 bulk. The [[Desert Striker]] build is almost overgunned, because with the [[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]], you don’t have room for a single reload with a gunner. Switching the HMG for an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], you make one of the best combat cars in Evan, because then you can fit in a gunner, a reload and a [[Light Rocket]]. This build is one I’ve used to solo-kill [[Poltergeist|Poltergeists]] and [[Mutant Bomber|Mutant Bombers]], and once scored three kills in a single scout. The Vampire truly shines with a 3.2 v8 under the hood, which lets you fit in a [[Medium Rocket Rack]].
On the other hand, the Vampire seems to be a bit more fragile than the [[Phoenix]], so use it with care.

[[Bullet]] - It’s easy to dismiss the Bullet as a Redneck Racer, since it is a Ford Fusion, the NASCAR car. But I’ve found the Bullet to be a surprisingly flexible hunter on the battlefield. It’s a fair sight faster than either the [[Phoenix]] or the [[Sunrise]], and very maneuverable. With a good driver, I feel like my Bullet is reading my mind, like it’ll do precisely what I ask it to, with a minimum of drifting. Low bulk is certainly an issue, but with a [[Medium Machine Gun]] and a [[Mini Rocket Pod]] or a [[Light Rocket]], the Bullet is a nasty little predator. Like the [[Vampire]], the Bullet truly shines with a V8 under the hood, which frees up space for more ammo or weaponry.

[[Buccaneer]] - The Bucky is one of the larger muscle cars, but it also has a slightly lower armor value. On the other hand, being able to fit a 5L engine, a MMG, and a gunner in makes it SPEEDY. Or you can fit in a 4L and free up 20 bulk for reloads, One-Shots, or even a secondary Gatling for your driver. I’ve seen a few people mount an [[Anti-Tank Gun]] in a Buccaneer, but that takes it out of the Muscle category and places it into a Sedan class, tactically, because there is NO WAY you can maintain speed and control while firing an ATG.

[[Flash]] - The Mini Muscle. With a 2L engine, it’s almost as fast as a 4L Phoenix, and it is so light and fast that it’s a joy to drive. The downside is, you have paper armor, not much of it, and you will have 40 bulk with a gunner. That’s enough for a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], a reload, and a Light Rocket. I wouldn’t recommend mounting anything heavier than a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] on this chassis, it’s very susceptible to recoil, and extremely fragile.

[[Pike]] - The [[Pike]] is the [[Sunrise]]’s bigger, nastier brother. If you think a Sunrise is too bouncy, walk straight past this baby. Fire 1 shot from a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] and watch this thing bounce for 4 turns. Sitting still and getting shot will leave you bouncing wildly and struggling for traction and any ability of escape. Even under MML or MG fire you may find yourself stuck for 4-5 seconds hoping it doesn't roll. All that said, it drives over the rough stuff real well (with care) and is fast. Takes some time to get used to the handling (ghost)and tends to understeer heaps into a corner (especially if you fill its huge engine bay with motor) and oversteer once it does start to turn. Once you do get used to this though and drive accordingly, shes a dream to drive and low speed maneuverability is amazing. Reasonable armour. - Bastiel

[[Flail]] - The [[Flail]] has almost sedan-like bulk available and heavy armor. Well, it's more like driving a mini SUV than a musclecar depending on how you arm it, but for a musclecar, boy does it have a lot of armor and almost as much capacity as the [[Osprey]] - FireFly

I've found the Flail a very versatile car if used properly. It's easy to look at all that bulk and armor and think of it as a 'win button.' It isn't. Make a wrong move in the Flail, and you'll be lucky to live to regret it. With a 4L under the hood, its acceleration is substandard, and it really needs a 5L or better for optimal performance. Its maneuvering isn't bad, but like a lot of sedans, its best maneuvering happens under 30 MPH. Use it like a Phoenix or sunrise, and your Flail will die. Use it as a heavy support car to back up your lighter muscles, and it will serve you very well.

The [[Flail]] also has a wide turning radius that should be accounted for. With a 3.2Lv8 and a HCR or Laser it makes a good sniper. - Tango

[[Osprey]] - It has decent handling, not the best, but there are worse. The main issue is that if you get locked into a slide, it can take some turns to get back to moving straight. The main strength lies in it's huge capacity, with a crew of 2 and a 3.2lv8, you still have room for 110 bulk worth of weapons, for example, a [[Heavy Car Rifle|HCR]]/[[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]] combo works surprisingly well, but the real fun with that is that it's the most heavily armed musclecar around, and kicks the living snot out of other muscles, if you can handle the weight... - FireFly

[[Roadrunner]] - It handles like a heavy Phoenix. It has the chassis strength of a [[Chomper]]. With the addition of a HUGE motor capacity, this car might fly if not for the downforce supplied by the extraordinarily large rear wing.

It is VERY rare to find one of these beautiful cars. You might not want to risk it ANYWHERE once you do find it.
If you do find one, you`ll be pleasantly surprised at it`s armor capacity and bulk available. - JD Basher

[[Moray]] - No middle ground really, people seem to either love them or hate them. Morays are a bit pricey for something with less armour than a [[Phoenix|Pho,]] but they will take a 5LV8 unexposed, making them a speedy travel car.
They do VERY well with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Like the [[Sunrise]], they can be a bit drifty at high speeds, do not expect radical changes in direction, and this chassis can be quite unforgiving if you oversteer, though they rarely turtle.
There is, however, definitely a learning curve to overcome when using this chassis.
Expect to spin out and lose all of your momentum if you expect too much.

At slower speeds, such as when the dogfight has gone to hell, you can get a 90 degree turn out of this car, easily, assuming you have no major recoil happening from weapons fire, and a good bit more if you like using the handbrake. You can stay inside the turning arc of most NPC vehicles with ease, chewing away at them the whole time. As with all muscle cars, recoil can be an issue with heavier weapons.
Personally, after a good bit of trial and error, I have found that an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Machine Gun|MG]] combo works very well. An [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Micromissile Launcher|MMLs]] combo is effective as well, but one must keep in mind the ammo limitations [[Micromissile Launcher|MML]] have.
As with any muscle car, DON'T STOP unless it's going to give you a BIG tactical advantage.
The [[Moray]] can be a bit more forgiving in slow speed situations than other muscle cars due to it's tight turning radius, but it's best not to get INTO that situation if you don't have to. -Rev. V

[[Corghette]] - A dead sexy little racer - the Corghette is closest in handling to a tighter [[Vampire]] with one major difference. On rough terrain, it's entirely possible to get the Corghette stuck nose-and-tail on terrain, with none of its tires in contact with the ground. If it doesn't get stuck, it's a very responsive and deadly car, with 5 more bulk than the [[Vampire]]. Like the [[Vampire]], the Corghette shines with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Properly handled with an eye for terrain, the Corgy will serve you very well.

[[Category: Guides]]

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2012-02-18T04:57:33Z

Fifth: /* Turn By Turn */

The muscle car is one of the true joys of Darkwind. Neither well armored nor well armed, its primary asset in the wilderness is its speed and maneuverability. Wilderness battles have been won against enormous odds because of one or two well-employed muscle cars.

Muscles are also indispensable for hunting Traders, because only muscle cars can chase down and corral fleeing cargo vehicles.

But muscle cars are terribly vulnerable when exchanging fire with the enemy, due to their light armor and weapon loads, and their high speed can be as much a vulnerability as an asset. The difference between a victorious muscle and a very fast coffin is forethought and planning.

This manual is broken into several sections. First I’ll go over what a muscle car is, and setting up your muscle, and I’ll go over different weapons. Then will be basic strategies and tactics, and I’ll close with the Chassis Appendix, going over the chassis one by one.

== Section 1: Setting Up ==

=== What Is (And Isn’t) A Muscle? ===

A muscle is a midsize car that can mount a big engine unexposed. The [[Windsor]] and [[Windsor II]] are not muscles. No car with an exposed engine should be considered a muscle, as they are too vulnerable to survive in a combat zone. Here’s a (partial) list of muscle chassis:

*[[Phoenix]]
*[[Sunrise]]
*[[Vampire]]
*[[Pike]]
*[[Bullet]]
*[[Buccaneer]]
*[[Roadrunner]]
*[[Moray]]
*[[Flail]]
*[[Osprey]]
*[[Stormer]]
*[[Flash]]
*[[Corghette]]

All of these, other than the Flash, can mount a 4L or larger engine unexposed. The Flash is included because of its sheer speed and ability to accept an engine disproportionately large for its size. I’ll go into each of these chassis in detail in the Chassis Appendix.

=== Setting Up ===

'''Engine'''
In general, you want at least a 4L engine or a 3.2LV8. A full-sized muscle with a 3.2L engine isn’t a muscle at all, it’s a coffin.

'''Armor'''
Max out your front, put 5 on your top and bottom, and distribute the rest evenly between your sides and rear. Class B - NEVER C. A-class armor is tempting and gives a nice speed boost, but is awfully expensive to keep repaired.

'''Fuel'''
A 2-unit tank is sufficient for most muscle operations. An extra unit or two on top of that can enable your muscle scouts to go further out and improve your odds.

'''Tyres'''
Offroad all the way. Handling is everything to a muscle. The exception to this is if you’re working in rough terrain, then you need Reinforced.

'''Crew'''
Driver and gunner. Putting in 2 gunners takes up too much valuable space. Your driver should have at least 20 skill, but 40 is really preferred. With more driving skill, you’ll accelerate faster and you’ll be more stable. Your gunner should have at least some Gunnery skill, but muscles are a good way to train gunners.

'''Weapons'''
Front, front, front. You want your weapons on the FRONT. Side mounts are possible, but not generally recommended. Rear mounts sound good on paper, but they’re actually very difficult to use in practice.

Here’s your menu of killware:

[[Machine Gun]] - The vanilla option. Don’t knock it, a pair of these on the front of a muscle can really chew through enemy armor over the long run, and they have decent range and accuracy. The downside is, you need a pair to make a decent punch, and your driver will have to man one of them. Your accuracy with that gun will be lower.

[[Gatling Gun]] - The [[Machine Gun]] on steroids. The downside is, its range is shorter and you NEED two of them to make a decent punch, so your driver better have decent Gunnery skills. Watch out for the increased recoil - sustained fire can really slow you down.

[[Micromissile Launcher]] - Like the Machine Gun and Gatling Gun, the MML is small enough to be fitted in pairs, or mixed with a MG or GG. However, I don’t recommend doing so. Having an explosive round is useful in some cases, but there isn’t enough punch to outweigh the low ammunition capacity. Some chassis can accept a MML alongside a [[Medium Machine Gun]] as a driver-controlled secondary weapon, and this is an enormously effective build at short range.

[[Medium Machine Gun]] - My favorite muscle weapon. Decent damage, manageable recoil, good ammo supply, and low bulk. You will NOT have enough room for 2 of them, but that’s not a bad thing, you’ll be able to fit several reloads or a One-Shot secondary. Putting in just one gun lets your gunner concentrate on killing properly.

[[Heavy Machine Gun]] - One of the heaviest weapons available to muscles, the HMG should be deployed with care. Its recoil is hard enough to seriously affect your handling, and its 40 bulk will generally limit you to a single reload. On the other hand, its sheer power and ammo capacity can sometimes outweigh its bulk.

[[Rocket Launcher]] - The Rocket Launcher is a sledgehammer of muscle weapons. Peeling 3 or 4 off an enemy with a single hit is very tempting, to say the least. But the 10-round clip means you’ll be reloading mid-fight, and you generally will only have room for a single reload. Having only 20 rounds of fire means you have to hit Every. Single. Time. Also, the large blast radius can make a lot of problems for you in a tight, up-close fight.

[[Heavy Gatling Gun]] - Rare and powerful, the HGG is better mounted on an SUV than a muscle. Its fierce recoil will throw you all over the place.

[[Car Rifle]] - The Sniper’s Best Friend, the Car Rifle is feared for good reason. But in the high-speed muscle fights, you will NOT have enough time to line up a proper shot, and the 15-round magazine means you’ll have less sustained fire. Use a Medium Machine Gun unless you have some very skilled Snipers.

[[Flamethrower]] - The Flamethrower is another weapon that looks better on paper than it does in combat. As long as you’re running like you’re on fire, why not set everyone else on fire too? But unless you like being quite literally on fire, avoid the Flamethrower. Its damage is not high enough to justify its short range and small clip size. Also, ANY damage to the FT will set you on fire. Avoid unless you are making a suicide/novelty car.

One-Shots - I’m using this as a catchall for the [[Mini|Mini Rocket]], [[Light|Light Rocket]], [[Medium|Medium Rocket]], and [[Heavy|Heavy Rocket]] Rockets and their respective Racks and Pods. A One-Shot mounted next to your primary weapon can give a low-armor opponent a serious case of the breaches. Given that you’ll need to use your driver to man it and you only have a single shot with them, you need to time your shots carefully to hit an enemy’s weak side from close range. But a well-placed rocket can shorten a duel by several turns. My personal favorite is a toss-up between a [[Light Rocket Rack]] (3 shots, triple the fun!) and a single [[Heavy Rocket]]. (Make a Big Bang!)
As appealing as One-Shots are, NEVER compromise your primary firepower to fit in a bigger One-Shot. Your main weapon is your cake, your One-Shot is your icing.

== Section 2: Let’s Talk Tactics ==

=== Strategy and Combat Roles ===

Muscle tactics fall into four general areas: '''Kiting, Strafing, Dueling''' and '''Chasing'''. Which one of these you perform depends a great deal on the situation of the rest of your scout, so LISTEN to your squadmates. Clear communication can make the difference between a successful scout and a disaster.

*'''Kiting''' - Kiting is distracting the AI opponents. Run fast around them, OUTSIDE of their Line of Fire, and see who peels off to chase you. You don’t need to get the whole group’s attention, and every enemy that’s chasing you is one less that’s firing on your buddies. If none of them chase you, you can start '''Strafing''' their stragglers. If you only pull one enemy, you have a good chance to '''Duel''' it into submission, but if you have more than one, keep running until the rest of your squad is done with their portion and ready to peel them off of you. Kiting can also put you into position to '''Strafe''' stragglers or '''Clip''' artillery wagons.

*'''Strafing''' - Strafing is, in essence, attacking a group of enemies at high speed. Get your speed up - between 60 and 80 is ideal - and pick your closest target. Take several turns to plan out your approach, and check your target’s weapon arcs carefully. A rear strike is ideal on a [[Mutant Marauder]], but not a good idea against a [[Poltergeist]]. NEVER aim straight in at your target, aim slightly to one side. Keep your speed up as you make your attack run, fire a few times, then move on to the next target. You don’t need to kill your target, just sting it. Then you can move onto the next target or break off and set up for another run.

Related to strafing is '''Clipping'''. AI cars with Grenade Launchers and Mortars can be deadly because they tend to hide behind their consorts while showering a squad with high-explosive rain. But a muscle car or two can sometimes loop behind the consorts and knock out or distract an artillery vehicle. Even if the artillery is only distracted, you've bought your teammates a moment of respite from the falling shells.

Clipping an artillery car is risky, but can be done with enough speed. Drop your speed to 40 as you start firing, concentrate your fire on one armor facing, and get your teeth in. If the target or another car seems to be turning for you, accelerate out of danger, rinse, and repeat until your target is dead.

*'''Dueling''' - This is the opposite of Strafing. You’re getting in, going in for the kill, doing it for the thrill. As the name suggests, you’re going for a single opponent, and you’re not giving up until they’re dead in the desert.

First, know your opponent. Know exactly what weapons it has, know his firing arcs, and figure out how to get your teeth into him without getting bitten. In almost every duel, you WILL be outgunned, use your maneuverability to stay out of his fire zones. Taking some fire is all right, but spread it out among your sides, but focus your fire on one or two of his facets. Watch your ammunition level, and leave your opponent lamed and burning.

*'''Chasing''' - During trader hunts, this is where the muscle shows its true strengths. While your heavier allies are hammering the cargo escorts into scrap, your job is simple: keep the cargo from getting away.

Communicate with other chasers, make sure all of the runners are covered and none get to 350 meters.

Runners are fairly dumb AIs, they run away from the closest player. You can use this to your advantage if you can get one muscle in front of the pack, they’ll turn back toward your heavies or scatter into rough terrain. Most runners have heavy rear guns, so don’t get too close. With enough carnage among the escorts, traders will demoralize, but to maximize salvage, it’s a good idea to start shooting at traders when the escort is mostly demoralized. This increases the runners’ stress level and brings them closer to demoralizing. You DON’T want to actually breach them unless you’re in serious danger, but stressing them can shorten the scout by several turns.

Of all the cargo vehicles, [[Trade Runner]]s are the sole exception - you want to kill them, or at least silence their guns. They very rarely carry good cargo, and their heavy artillery can be lethal to chasers. The best tactic for bringing a Trade Runner down is to use two cars to go at its flanks and front and kill its engine. If you can't spare a second car, use terrain to shield yourself from its guns until you can get beside it. Get your teeth into its flank, and don't let go.

'''All-Muscle Squads'''

For an all-muscle squad, forming a line like a conventional scout squad is a recipe for suicide. I've found that the best strategy revolves around breaking your force into units of 2 or 3 cars each, and each attack group picks a target to duel. Running for a time is a good way to break an opposing force up, and then the attack groups can turn on individual enemies. Go in fast and hard, and kill the enemy as fast as possible.

=== Turn By Turn ===

Once the bullets start flying, fighting with a muscle becomes brutally simple: stay out of your enemy’s fire zones and keep your guns on your opponent. Have a working knowledge of the basic Somerset [[NPC Vehicles|NPC designs]] and what gun is on which facing. While avoiding fire is always a must, especially avoid rocket launchers, HMGs, and MMLs - the kinetic impact can badly affect your handling. Pick a target facing and pour your fire into it.

Knowing your car is especially important for muscle drivers. For your first couple outings with a chassis you’re not familiar with, take it out with a group on relatively low-risk scouts until you’re used to the handling. Alternately, load it into DW: Tactical and take it through some paces, get used to how it handles on sand and rock and asphalt.

'''The Slope Turn'''

Use terrain wisely. If you need to turn around quickly, you can climb up a slope and use it to shave a turn or two off your turning time. when front wheels are on the slope, turn your steering wheel all the way and keep it there until your front is below your back, and then start countersteering out. Be careful, as this can expose your top armor, but it's a useful trick.

'''Tactical Kiting'''

This is fancy verbiage for using your buddies as bait. Keep an eye on all your buddies - enemies who are going for your wingman can be vulnerable themselves to a sustained side or rear attack. And if an enemy is on your tail, you may be able to lure it into your allies' loving embrace, if you don't mind losing some armor in the doing.

'''A Note On The Handbrake'''

Used properly and sparingly, the handbrake can be the best medicine for a tight situation. But like all remedies, it's best used in moderation.

When you're moving at high speed in a tight turn, the handbrake can sometimes enable you to turn 180 or 270 degrees in a single turn, at the cost of a fair chunk of your speed. This can be very useful at the end of an attack run, but losing that much of your speed can be lethal. Use with caution.

== Chassis Appendix ==

[[Phoenix]] - The venerable Phoenix is probably your first muscle car, as it’s the most common in [[Somerset]], and even as you move onto better muscles, Phoenixes remain the best option for training drivers, because replacements can always be found. I’ve found them generally forgiving of newbie driving mistakes. Like all muscles, they have a tendency to drift and tend to lose armor to terrain.

[[Sunrise]] - The [[Phoenix]]’s twin. The [[Sunrise]] and [[Phoenix]] are identical in the garage, with identical armor, engine, and bulk characteristics. But out in the wild, the Sunrise is quite different from its sibling. The Sunrise tends to handle differently, softer and with a pronounced drift. After turning at high speed, it’s not uncommon to drift on your original course for several turns. The Sunrise demands planning four or five turns ahead. For all its faults, the [[Sunrise]] is marginally faster than the Phoenix and tends to lose less armor to terrain.

[[Vampire]] - It’s easy to see the rental [[Desert Striker]] as representative of the Vampire, even to take it for a spin, but the rental’s Standard Tyres cripple the Striker’s beautiful possiblities. The Vampire drives like a [[Phoenix]] on steroids, but the increased responsiveness comes at the cost of 10 bulk. The [[Desert Striker]] build is almost overgunned, because with the [[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]], you don’t have room for a single reload with a gunner. Switching the HMG for an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], you make one of the best combat cars in Evan, because then you can fit in a gunner, a reload and a [[Light Rocket]]. This build is one I’ve used to solo-kill [[Poltergeist|Poltergeists]] and [[Mutant Bomber|Mutant Bombers]], and once scored three kills in a single scout. Never, ever underestimate the Vampire. The Vampire truly shines with a 3.2 v8 under the hood.
On the other hand, the Vampire seems to be a bit more fragile than the [[Phoenix]], so use it with care.

[[Bullet]] - It’s easy to dismiss the Bullet as a Redneck Racer, since it is a Ford Fusion, the NASCAR car. But I’ve found the Bullet to be a surprisingly flexible hunter on the battlefield. It’s a fair sight faster than either the [[Phoenix]] or the [[Sunrise]], and very maneuverable. With a good driver, I feel like my Bullet is reading my mind, like it’ll do precisely what I ask it to, with a minimum of drifting. Low bulk is certainly an issue, but with a [[Medium Machine Gun]] and a [[Mini Rocket Pod]] or a [[Light Rocket]], the Bullet is a nasty little predator.

[[Buccaneer]] - The Bucky is one of the larger muscle cars, but it also has a slightly lower armor value. On the other hand, being able to fit a 5L engine, a MMG, and a gunner in makes it SPEEDY. Or you can fit in a 4L and free up 20 bulk for reloads, One-Shots, or even a secondary Gatling for your driver. I’ve seen a few people mount an [[Anti-Tank Gun]] in a Buccaneer, but that takes it out of the Muscle category and places it into a Sedan class, tactically, because there is NO WAY you can maintain speed and control while firing an ATG.

[[Flash]] - The Mini Muscle. With a 2L engine, it’s almost as fast as a 4L Phoenix, and it is so light and fast that it’s a joy to drive. The downside is, you have paper armor, not much of it, and you will have 40 bulk with a gunner. That’s enough for a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], a reload, and a Light Rocket. I wouldn’t recommend mounting anything heavier than a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] on this chassis, it’s very susceptible to recoil.

[[Pike]] - The [[Pike]] is the [[Sunrise]]’s bigger, nastier brother. If you think a Sunrise is too bouncy, walk straight past this baby. Fire 1 shot from a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] and watch this thing bounce for 4 turns. Sitting still and getting shot will leave you bouncing wildly and struggling for traction and any ability of escape. Even under MML or MG fire you may find yourself stuck for 4-5 seconds hoping it doesn't roll. All that said, it drives over the rough stuff real well (with care) and is fast. Takes some time to get used to the handling (ghost)and tends to understeer heaps into a corner (especially if you fill its huge engine bay with motor) and oversteer once it does start to turn. Once you do get used to this though and drive accordingly, shes a dream to drive and low speed maneuverability is amazing. Reasonable armour. - Bastiel

[[Flail]] - The [[Flail]] has almost sedan-like bulk available and heavy armor. Well, it's more like driving a mini SUV than a musclecar depending on how you arm it, but for a musclecar, boy does it have a lot of armor and almost as much capacity as the [[Osprey]]... and thats about it. - FireFly

The [[Flail]] also has a wide turning radius that should be accounted for. With a 3.2Lv8 and a HCR or Laser it makes a good sniper. - Tango

[[Osprey]] - It has decent handling, not the best, but there are worse. The main issue is that if you get locked into a slide, it can take some turns to get back to moving straight. The main strength lies in it's huge capacity, with a crew of 2 and a 3.2lv8, you still have room for 110 bulk worth of weapons, for example, a [[Heavy Car Rifle|HCR]]/[[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]] combo works surprisingly well, but the real fun with that is that it's the most heavily armed musclecar around, and kicks the living snot out of other muscles, if you can handle the weight... - FireFly

[[Roadrunner]] - It handles like a heavy Phoenix. It has the chassis strength of a [[Chomper]]. With the addition of a HUGE motor capacity, this car might fly if not for the downforce supplied by the extraordinarily large rear wing.

It is VERY rare to find one of these beautiful cars. You might not want to risk it ANYWHERE once you do find it.
If you do find one, you`ll be pleasantly surprised at it`s armor capacity and bulk available. - JD Basher

[[Moray]] - No middle ground really, people seem to either love them or hate them. Morays are a bit pricey for something with less armour than a [[Phoenix|Pho,]] but they will take a 5LV8 unexposed, making them a speedy travel car.
They do VERY well with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Like the [[Sunrise]], they can be a bit drifty at high speeds, do not expect radical changes in direction, and this chassis can be quite unforgiving if you oversteer, though they rarely turtle.
There is, however, definitely a learning curve to overcome when using this chassis.
Expect to spin out and lose all of your momentum if you expect too much.

At slower speeds, such as when the dogfight has gone to hell, you can get a 90 degree turn out of this car, easily, assuming you have no major recoil happening from weapons fire, and a good bit more if you like using the handbrake. You can stay inside the turning arc of most NPC vehicles with ease, chewing away at them the whole time. As with all muscle cars, recoil can be an issue with heavier weapons.
Personally, after a good bit of trial and error, I have found that an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Machine Gun|MG]] combo works very well. An [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Micromissile Launcher|MMLs]] combo is effective as well, but one must keep in mind the ammo limitations [[Micromissile Launcher|MML]] have.
As with any muscle car, DON'T STOP unless it's going to give you a BIG tactical advantage.
The [[Moray]] can be a bit more forgiving in slow speed situations than other muscle cars due to it's tight turning radius, but it's best not to get INTO that situation if you don't have to. -Rev. V

[[Corghette]] - A dead sexy little racer - the Corghette is closest in handling to a tighter [[Vampire]] with one major difference. On rough terrain, it's entirely possible to get the Corghette stuck nose-and-tail on terrain, with none of its tires in contact with the ground. If it doesn't get stuck, it's a very responsive and deadly car, with 5 more bulk than the [[Vampire]]. Like the [[Vampire]], the Corghette shines with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Properly handled with an eye for terrain, the Corgy will serve you very well.

[[Category: Guides]]

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2012-02-18T04:56:53Z

Fifth: /* Turn By Turn */

The muscle car is one of the true joys of Darkwind. Neither well armored nor well armed, its primary asset in the wilderness is its speed and maneuverability. Wilderness battles have been won against enormous odds because of one or two well-employed muscle cars.

Muscles are also indispensable for hunting Traders, because only muscle cars can chase down and corral fleeing cargo vehicles.

But muscle cars are terribly vulnerable when exchanging fire with the enemy, due to their light armor and weapon loads, and their high speed can be as much a vulnerability as an asset. The difference between a victorious muscle and a very fast coffin is forethought and planning.

This manual is broken into several sections. First I’ll go over what a muscle car is, and setting up your muscle, and I’ll go over different weapons. Then will be basic strategies and tactics, and I’ll close with the Chassis Appendix, going over the chassis one by one.

== Section 1: Setting Up ==

=== What Is (And Isn’t) A Muscle? ===

A muscle is a midsize car that can mount a big engine unexposed. The [[Windsor]] and [[Windsor II]] are not muscles. No car with an exposed engine should be considered a muscle, as they are too vulnerable to survive in a combat zone. Here’s a (partial) list of muscle chassis:

*[[Phoenix]]
*[[Sunrise]]
*[[Vampire]]
*[[Pike]]
*[[Bullet]]
*[[Buccaneer]]
*[[Roadrunner]]
*[[Moray]]
*[[Flail]]
*[[Osprey]]
*[[Stormer]]
*[[Flash]]
*[[Corghette]]

All of these, other than the Flash, can mount a 4L or larger engine unexposed. The Flash is included because of its sheer speed and ability to accept an engine disproportionately large for its size. I’ll go into each of these chassis in detail in the Chassis Appendix.

=== Setting Up ===

'''Engine'''
In general, you want at least a 4L engine or a 3.2LV8. A full-sized muscle with a 3.2L engine isn’t a muscle at all, it’s a coffin.

'''Armor'''
Max out your front, put 5 on your top and bottom, and distribute the rest evenly between your sides and rear. Class B - NEVER C. A-class armor is tempting and gives a nice speed boost, but is awfully expensive to keep repaired.

'''Fuel'''
A 2-unit tank is sufficient for most muscle operations. An extra unit or two on top of that can enable your muscle scouts to go further out and improve your odds.

'''Tyres'''
Offroad all the way. Handling is everything to a muscle. The exception to this is if you’re working in rough terrain, then you need Reinforced.

'''Crew'''
Driver and gunner. Putting in 2 gunners takes up too much valuable space. Your driver should have at least 20 skill, but 40 is really preferred. With more driving skill, you’ll accelerate faster and you’ll be more stable. Your gunner should have at least some Gunnery skill, but muscles are a good way to train gunners.

'''Weapons'''
Front, front, front. You want your weapons on the FRONT. Side mounts are possible, but not generally recommended. Rear mounts sound good on paper, but they’re actually very difficult to use in practice.

Here’s your menu of killware:

[[Machine Gun]] - The vanilla option. Don’t knock it, a pair of these on the front of a muscle can really chew through enemy armor over the long run, and they have decent range and accuracy. The downside is, you need a pair to make a decent punch, and your driver will have to man one of them. Your accuracy with that gun will be lower.

[[Gatling Gun]] - The [[Machine Gun]] on steroids. The downside is, its range is shorter and you NEED two of them to make a decent punch, so your driver better have decent Gunnery skills. Watch out for the increased recoil - sustained fire can really slow you down.

[[Micromissile Launcher]] - Like the Machine Gun and Gatling Gun, the MML is small enough to be fitted in pairs, or mixed with a MG or GG. However, I don’t recommend doing so. Having an explosive round is useful in some cases, but there isn’t enough punch to outweigh the low ammunition capacity. Some chassis can accept a MML alongside a [[Medium Machine Gun]] as a driver-controlled secondary weapon, and this is an enormously effective build at short range.

[[Medium Machine Gun]] - My favorite muscle weapon. Decent damage, manageable recoil, good ammo supply, and low bulk. You will NOT have enough room for 2 of them, but that’s not a bad thing, you’ll be able to fit several reloads or a One-Shot secondary. Putting in just one gun lets your gunner concentrate on killing properly.

[[Heavy Machine Gun]] - One of the heaviest weapons available to muscles, the HMG should be deployed with care. Its recoil is hard enough to seriously affect your handling, and its 40 bulk will generally limit you to a single reload. On the other hand, its sheer power and ammo capacity can sometimes outweigh its bulk.

[[Rocket Launcher]] - The Rocket Launcher is a sledgehammer of muscle weapons. Peeling 3 or 4 off an enemy with a single hit is very tempting, to say the least. But the 10-round clip means you’ll be reloading mid-fight, and you generally will only have room for a single reload. Having only 20 rounds of fire means you have to hit Every. Single. Time. Also, the large blast radius can make a lot of problems for you in a tight, up-close fight.

[[Heavy Gatling Gun]] - Rare and powerful, the HGG is better mounted on an SUV than a muscle. Its fierce recoil will throw you all over the place.

[[Car Rifle]] - The Sniper’s Best Friend, the Car Rifle is feared for good reason. But in the high-speed muscle fights, you will NOT have enough time to line up a proper shot, and the 15-round magazine means you’ll have less sustained fire. Use a Medium Machine Gun unless you have some very skilled Snipers.

[[Flamethrower]] - The Flamethrower is another weapon that looks better on paper than it does in combat. As long as you’re running like you’re on fire, why not set everyone else on fire too? But unless you like being quite literally on fire, avoid the Flamethrower. Its damage is not high enough to justify its short range and small clip size. Also, ANY damage to the FT will set you on fire. Avoid unless you are making a suicide/novelty car.

One-Shots - I’m using this as a catchall for the [[Mini|Mini Rocket]], [[Light|Light Rocket]], [[Medium|Medium Rocket]], and [[Heavy|Heavy Rocket]] Rockets and their respective Racks and Pods. A One-Shot mounted next to your primary weapon can give a low-armor opponent a serious case of the breaches. Given that you’ll need to use your driver to man it and you only have a single shot with them, you need to time your shots carefully to hit an enemy’s weak side from close range. But a well-placed rocket can shorten a duel by several turns. My personal favorite is a toss-up between a [[Light Rocket Rack]] (3 shots, triple the fun!) and a single [[Heavy Rocket]]. (Make a Big Bang!)
As appealing as One-Shots are, NEVER compromise your primary firepower to fit in a bigger One-Shot. Your main weapon is your cake, your One-Shot is your icing.

== Section 2: Let’s Talk Tactics ==

=== Strategy and Combat Roles ===

Muscle tactics fall into four general areas: '''Kiting, Strafing, Dueling''' and '''Chasing'''. Which one of these you perform depends a great deal on the situation of the rest of your scout, so LISTEN to your squadmates. Clear communication can make the difference between a successful scout and a disaster.

*'''Kiting''' - Kiting is distracting the AI opponents. Run fast around them, OUTSIDE of their Line of Fire, and see who peels off to chase you. You don’t need to get the whole group’s attention, and every enemy that’s chasing you is one less that’s firing on your buddies. If none of them chase you, you can start '''Strafing''' their stragglers. If you only pull one enemy, you have a good chance to '''Duel''' it into submission, but if you have more than one, keep running until the rest of your squad is done with their portion and ready to peel them off of you. Kiting can also put you into position to '''Strafe''' stragglers or '''Clip''' artillery wagons.

*'''Strafing''' - Strafing is, in essence, attacking a group of enemies at high speed. Get your speed up - between 60 and 80 is ideal - and pick your closest target. Take several turns to plan out your approach, and check your target’s weapon arcs carefully. A rear strike is ideal on a [[Mutant Marauder]], but not a good idea against a [[Poltergeist]]. NEVER aim straight in at your target, aim slightly to one side. Keep your speed up as you make your attack run, fire a few times, then move on to the next target. You don’t need to kill your target, just sting it. Then you can move onto the next target or break off and set up for another run.

Related to strafing is '''Clipping'''. AI cars with Grenade Launchers and Mortars can be deadly because they tend to hide behind their consorts while showering a squad with high-explosive rain. But a muscle car or two can sometimes loop behind the consorts and knock out or distract an artillery vehicle. Even if the artillery is only distracted, you've bought your teammates a moment of respite from the falling shells.

Clipping an artillery car is risky, but can be done with enough speed. Drop your speed to 40 as you start firing, concentrate your fire on one armor facing, and get your teeth in. If the target or another car seems to be turning for you, accelerate out of danger, rinse, and repeat until your target is dead.

*'''Dueling''' - This is the opposite of Strafing. You’re getting in, going in for the kill, doing it for the thrill. As the name suggests, you’re going for a single opponent, and you’re not giving up until they’re dead in the desert.

First, know your opponent. Know exactly what weapons it has, know his firing arcs, and figure out how to get your teeth into him without getting bitten. In almost every duel, you WILL be outgunned, use your maneuverability to stay out of his fire zones. Taking some fire is all right, but spread it out among your sides, but focus your fire on one or two of his facets. Watch your ammunition level, and leave your opponent lamed and burning.

*'''Chasing''' - During trader hunts, this is where the muscle shows its true strengths. While your heavier allies are hammering the cargo escorts into scrap, your job is simple: keep the cargo from getting away.

Communicate with other chasers, make sure all of the runners are covered and none get to 350 meters.

Runners are fairly dumb AIs, they run away from the closest player. You can use this to your advantage if you can get one muscle in front of the pack, they’ll turn back toward your heavies or scatter into rough terrain. Most runners have heavy rear guns, so don’t get too close. With enough carnage among the escorts, traders will demoralize, but to maximize salvage, it’s a good idea to start shooting at traders when the escort is mostly demoralized. This increases the runners’ stress level and brings them closer to demoralizing. You DON’T want to actually breach them unless you’re in serious danger, but stressing them can shorten the scout by several turns.

Of all the cargo vehicles, [[Trade Runner]]s are the sole exception - you want to kill them, or at least silence their guns. They very rarely carry good cargo, and their heavy artillery can be lethal to chasers. The best tactic for bringing a Trade Runner down is to use two cars to go at its flanks and front and kill its engine. If you can't spare a second car, use terrain to shield yourself from its guns until you can get beside it. Get your teeth into its flank, and don't let go.

'''All-Muscle Squads'''

For an all-muscle squad, forming a line like a conventional scout squad is a recipe for suicide. I've found that the best strategy revolves around breaking your force into units of 2 or 3 cars each, and each attack group picks a target to duel. Running for a time is a good way to break an opposing force up, and then the attack groups can turn on individual enemies. Go in fast and hard, and kill the enemy as fast as possible.

=== Turn By Turn ===

Once the bullets start flying, fighting with a muscle becomes brutally simple: stay out of your enemy’s fire zones and keep your guns on your opponent. Have a working knowledge of the basic Somerset [[NPC Vehicles|NPC designs]] and what gun is on which facing. While avoiding fire is always a must, especially avoid rocket launchers, HMGs, and MMLs - the kinetic impact can badly affect your handling. Pick a target facing and pour your fire into it.

Knowing your car is especially important for muscle drivers. For your first couple outings with a chassis you’re not familiar with, take it out with a group on relatively low-risk scouts until you’re used to the handling. Alternately, load it into DW: Tactical and take it through some paces, get used to how it handles on sand and rock and asphalt.

'''The Slope Turn'''
Use terrain wisely. If you need to turn around quickly, you can climb up a slope and use it to shave a turn or two off your turning time. when front wheels are on the slope, turn your steering wheel all the way and keep it there until your front is below your back, and then start countersteering out. Be careful, as this can expose your top armor, but it's a useful trick.

'''Tactical Kiting'''

This is fancy verbiage for using your buddies as bait. Keep an eye on all your buddies - enemies who are going for your wingman can be vulnerable themselves to a sustained side or rear attack. And if an enemy is on your tail, you may be able to lure it into your allies' loving embrace, if you don't mind losing some armor in the doing.

'''A Note On The Handbrake'''

Used properly and sparingly, the handbrake can be the best medicine for a tight situation. But like all remedies, it's best used in moderation.

When you're moving at high speed in a tight turn, the handbrake can sometimes enable you to turn 180 or 270 degrees in a single turn, at the cost of a fair chunk of your speed. This can be very useful at the end of an attack run, but losing that much of your speed can be lethal. Use with caution.

== Chassis Appendix ==

[[Phoenix]] - The venerable Phoenix is probably your first muscle car, as it’s the most common in [[Somerset]], and even as you move onto better muscles, Phoenixes remain the best option for training drivers, because replacements can always be found. I’ve found them generally forgiving of newbie driving mistakes. Like all muscles, they have a tendency to drift and tend to lose armor to terrain.

[[Sunrise]] - The [[Phoenix]]’s twin. The [[Sunrise]] and [[Phoenix]] are identical in the garage, with identical armor, engine, and bulk characteristics. But out in the wild, the Sunrise is quite different from its sibling. The Sunrise tends to handle differently, softer and with a pronounced drift. After turning at high speed, it’s not uncommon to drift on your original course for several turns. The Sunrise demands planning four or five turns ahead. For all its faults, the [[Sunrise]] is marginally faster than the Phoenix and tends to lose less armor to terrain.

[[Vampire]] - It’s easy to see the rental [[Desert Striker]] as representative of the Vampire, even to take it for a spin, but the rental’s Standard Tyres cripple the Striker’s beautiful possiblities. The Vampire drives like a [[Phoenix]] on steroids, but the increased responsiveness comes at the cost of 10 bulk. The [[Desert Striker]] build is almost overgunned, because with the [[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]], you don’t have room for a single reload with a gunner. Switching the HMG for an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], you make one of the best combat cars in Evan, because then you can fit in a gunner, a reload and a [[Light Rocket]]. This build is one I’ve used to solo-kill [[Poltergeist|Poltergeists]] and [[Mutant Bomber|Mutant Bombers]], and once scored three kills in a single scout. Never, ever underestimate the Vampire. The Vampire truly shines with a 3.2 v8 under the hood.
On the other hand, the Vampire seems to be a bit more fragile than the [[Phoenix]], so use it with care.

[[Bullet]] - It’s easy to dismiss the Bullet as a Redneck Racer, since it is a Ford Fusion, the NASCAR car. But I’ve found the Bullet to be a surprisingly flexible hunter on the battlefield. It’s a fair sight faster than either the [[Phoenix]] or the [[Sunrise]], and very maneuverable. With a good driver, I feel like my Bullet is reading my mind, like it’ll do precisely what I ask it to, with a minimum of drifting. Low bulk is certainly an issue, but with a [[Medium Machine Gun]] and a [[Mini Rocket Pod]] or a [[Light Rocket]], the Bullet is a nasty little predator.

[[Buccaneer]] - The Bucky is one of the larger muscle cars, but it also has a slightly lower armor value. On the other hand, being able to fit a 5L engine, a MMG, and a gunner in makes it SPEEDY. Or you can fit in a 4L and free up 20 bulk for reloads, One-Shots, or even a secondary Gatling for your driver. I’ve seen a few people mount an [[Anti-Tank Gun]] in a Buccaneer, but that takes it out of the Muscle category and places it into a Sedan class, tactically, because there is NO WAY you can maintain speed and control while firing an ATG.

[[Flash]] - The Mini Muscle. With a 2L engine, it’s almost as fast as a 4L Phoenix, and it is so light and fast that it’s a joy to drive. The downside is, you have paper armor, not much of it, and you will have 40 bulk with a gunner. That’s enough for a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], a reload, and a Light Rocket. I wouldn’t recommend mounting anything heavier than a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] on this chassis, it’s very susceptible to recoil.

[[Pike]] - The [[Pike]] is the [[Sunrise]]’s bigger, nastier brother. If you think a Sunrise is too bouncy, walk straight past this baby. Fire 1 shot from a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] and watch this thing bounce for 4 turns. Sitting still and getting shot will leave you bouncing wildly and struggling for traction and any ability of escape. Even under MML or MG fire you may find yourself stuck for 4-5 seconds hoping it doesn't roll. All that said, it drives over the rough stuff real well (with care) and is fast. Takes some time to get used to the handling (ghost)and tends to understeer heaps into a corner (especially if you fill its huge engine bay with motor) and oversteer once it does start to turn. Once you do get used to this though and drive accordingly, shes a dream to drive and low speed maneuverability is amazing. Reasonable armour. - Bastiel

[[Flail]] - The [[Flail]] has almost sedan-like bulk available and heavy armor. Well, it's more like driving a mini SUV than a musclecar depending on how you arm it, but for a musclecar, boy does it have a lot of armor and almost as much capacity as the [[Osprey]]... and thats about it. - FireFly

The [[Flail]] also has a wide turning radius that should be accounted for. With a 3.2Lv8 and a HCR or Laser it makes a good sniper. - Tango

[[Osprey]] - It has decent handling, not the best, but there are worse. The main issue is that if you get locked into a slide, it can take some turns to get back to moving straight. The main strength lies in it's huge capacity, with a crew of 2 and a 3.2lv8, you still have room for 110 bulk worth of weapons, for example, a [[Heavy Car Rifle|HCR]]/[[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]] combo works surprisingly well, but the real fun with that is that it's the most heavily armed musclecar around, and kicks the living snot out of other muscles, if you can handle the weight... - FireFly

[[Roadrunner]] - It handles like a heavy Phoenix. It has the chassis strength of a [[Chomper]]. With the addition of a HUGE motor capacity, this car might fly if not for the downforce supplied by the extraordinarily large rear wing.

It is VERY rare to find one of these beautiful cars. You might not want to risk it ANYWHERE once you do find it.
If you do find one, you`ll be pleasantly surprised at it`s armor capacity and bulk available. - JD Basher

[[Moray]] - No middle ground really, people seem to either love them or hate them. Morays are a bit pricey for something with less armour than a [[Phoenix|Pho,]] but they will take a 5LV8 unexposed, making them a speedy travel car.
They do VERY well with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Like the [[Sunrise]], they can be a bit drifty at high speeds, do not expect radical changes in direction, and this chassis can be quite unforgiving if you oversteer, though they rarely turtle.
There is, however, definitely a learning curve to overcome when using this chassis.
Expect to spin out and lose all of your momentum if you expect too much.

At slower speeds, such as when the dogfight has gone to hell, you can get a 90 degree turn out of this car, easily, assuming you have no major recoil happening from weapons fire, and a good bit more if you like using the handbrake. You can stay inside the turning arc of most NPC vehicles with ease, chewing away at them the whole time. As with all muscle cars, recoil can be an issue with heavier weapons.
Personally, after a good bit of trial and error, I have found that an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Machine Gun|MG]] combo works very well. An [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Micromissile Launcher|MMLs]] combo is effective as well, but one must keep in mind the ammo limitations [[Micromissile Launcher|MML]] have.
As with any muscle car, DON'T STOP unless it's going to give you a BIG tactical advantage.
The [[Moray]] can be a bit more forgiving in slow speed situations than other muscle cars due to it's tight turning radius, but it's best not to get INTO that situation if you don't have to. -Rev. V

[[Corghette]] - A dead sexy little racer - the Corghette is closest in handling to a tighter [[Vampire]] with one major difference. On rough terrain, it's entirely possible to get the Corghette stuck nose-and-tail on terrain, with none of its tires in contact with the ground. If it doesn't get stuck, it's a very responsive and deadly car, with 5 more bulk than the [[Vampire]]. Like the [[Vampire]], the Corghette shines with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Properly handled with an eye for terrain, the Corgy will serve you very well.

[[Category: Guides]]

Muscle manual

2012-02-18T04:50:44Z

Fifth: creating redirect

#REDIRECT [[Fifth's Muscle Manual]]

Witch

2012-01-23T00:53:05Z

Fifth:

{{VehicleDesign|
chassis=Windsor II|
engine=3.2L V8|
fueltank=2|
tyres=Offroad|
free_bulk=48?|
weight=4374|
combat_rating=149|
armor_grade=B|
armor_fr=25|
armor_re=20|
armor_le=20|
armor_ri=20|
armor_to=8|
armor_bo=7|
weapon_1=Gatling Gun|
weapon_1_location=Front|
weapon_2=Heavy Machine Gun|
weapon_2_location=Front|
}}

The Witch is a combat-proven dogfighter that has all the benefits of the Windsor II platform. Under the right conditions, a Witch can turn on a dime and take a light beating, then deal a major beating out with its nasty fangs. Like any dogfighter, the Witch has to keep moving to be effective, but it can work as part of a firing line as well.

It's in supporting a SUV firing line that the Witch shows its true potential, disrupting a bandit charge and using terrain to flank the enemy. In this case, a good tactic is to keep your speed up, hit one enemy from the flank until it's out of the firing arc, and move onto the next target. This weakens several enemies at once, making them easier for a firing line to kill. An example of this strategy in action: Event #S171299

Best used with a driver and a gunner for each weapon. Doesn't leave a lot of room for reloads, but a single HMG reload should be enough for most group scouts. A fairly decent choice for inexperienced crews to gain some much-needed Gunnery and LGuns points.

[[Player Vehicle Designs|Back To List]]

[[Category: Player Vehicles]]

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2012-01-15T01:23:31Z

Fifth: /* Strategy and Combat Roles */ -added section on all-muscle squads, removed section on column strafing.

The muscle car is one of the true joys of Darkwind. Neither well armored nor well armed, its primary asset in the wilderness is its speed and maneuverability. Wilderness battles have been won against enormous odds because of one or two well-employed muscle cars.

Muscles are also indispensable for hunting Traders, because only muscle cars can chase down and corral fleeing cargo vehicles.

But muscle cars are terribly vulnerable when exchanging fire with the enemy, due to their light armor and weapon loads, and their high speed can be as much a vulnerability as an asset. The difference between a victorious muscle and a very fast coffin is forethought and planning.

This manual is broken into several sections. First I’ll go over what a muscle car is, and setting up your muscle, and I’ll go over different weapons. Then will be basic strategies and tactics, and I’ll close with the Chassis Appendix, going over the chassis one by one.

== Section 1: Setting Up ==

=== What Is (And Isn’t) A Muscle? ===

A muscle is a midsize car that can mount a big engine unexposed. The [[Windsor]] and [[Windsor II]] are not muscles. No car with an exposed engine should be considered a muscle, as they are too vulnerable to survive in a combat zone. Here’s a (partial) list of muscle chassis:

*[[Phoenix]]
*[[Sunrise]]
*[[Vampire]]
*[[Pike]]
*[[Bullet]]
*[[Buccaneer]]
*[[Roadrunner]]
*[[Moray]]
*[[Flail]]
*[[Osprey]]
*[[Stormer]]
*[[Flash]]
*[[Corghette]]

All of these, other than the Flash, can mount a 4L or larger engine unexposed. The Flash is included because of its sheer speed and ability to accept an engine disproportionately large for its size. I’ll go into each of these chassis in detail in the Chassis Appendix.

=== Setting Up ===

'''Engine'''
In general, you want at least a 4L engine or a 3.2LV8. A full-sized muscle with a 3.2L engine isn’t a muscle at all, it’s a coffin.

'''Armor'''
Max out your front, put 5 on your top and bottom, and distribute the rest evenly between your sides and rear. Class B - NEVER C. A-class armor is tempting and gives a nice speed boost, but is awfully expensive to keep repaired.

'''Fuel'''
A 2-unit tank is sufficient for most muscle operations. An extra unit or two on top of that can enable your muscle scouts to go further out and improve your odds.

'''Tyres'''
Offroad all the way. Handling is everything to a muscle. The exception to this is if you’re working in rough terrain, then you need Reinforced.

'''Crew'''
Driver and gunner. Putting in 2 gunners takes up too much valuable space. Your driver should have at least 20 skill, but 40 is really preferred. With more driving skill, you’ll accelerate faster and you’ll be more stable. Your gunner should have at least some Gunnery skill, but muscles are a good way to train gunners.

'''Weapons'''
Front, front, front. You want your weapons on the FRONT. Side mounts are possible, but not generally recommended. Rear mounts sound good on paper, but they’re actually very difficult to use in practice.

Here’s your menu of killware:

[[Machine Gun]] - The vanilla option. Don’t knock it, a pair of these on the front of a muscle can really chew through enemy armor over the long run, and they have decent range and accuracy. The downside is, you need a pair to make a decent punch, and your driver will have to man one of them. Your accuracy with that gun will be lower.

[[Gatling Gun]] - The [[Machine Gun]] on steroids. The downside is, its range is shorter and you NEED two of them to make a decent punch, so your driver better have decent Gunnery skills. Watch out for the increased recoil - sustained fire can really slow you down.

[[Micromissile Launcher]] - Like the Machine Gun and Gatling Gun, the MML is small enough to be fitted in pairs, or mixed with a MG or GG. However, I don’t recommend doing so. Having an explosive round is useful in some cases, but there isn’t enough punch to outweigh the low ammunition capacity. Some chassis can accept a MML alongside a [[Medium Machine Gun]] as a driver-controlled secondary weapon, and this is an enormously effective build at short range.

[[Medium Machine Gun]] - My favorite muscle weapon. Decent damage, manageable recoil, good ammo supply, and low bulk. You will NOT have enough room for 2 of them, but that’s not a bad thing, you’ll be able to fit several reloads or a One-Shot secondary. Putting in just one gun lets your gunner concentrate on killing properly.

[[Heavy Machine Gun]] - One of the heaviest weapons available to muscles, the HMG should be deployed with care. Its recoil is hard enough to seriously affect your handling, and its 40 bulk will generally limit you to a single reload. On the other hand, its sheer power and ammo capacity can sometimes outweigh its bulk.

[[Rocket Launcher]] - The Rocket Launcher is a sledgehammer of muscle weapons. Peeling 3 or 4 off an enemy with a single hit is very tempting, to say the least. But the 10-round clip means you’ll be reloading mid-fight, and you generally will only have room for a single reload. Having only 20 rounds of fire means you have to hit Every. Single. Time. Also, the large blast radius can make a lot of problems for you in a tight, up-close fight.

[[Heavy Gatling Gun]] - Rare and powerful, the HGG is better mounted on an SUV than a muscle. Its fierce recoil will throw you all over the place.

[[Car Rifle]] - The Sniper’s Best Friend, the Car Rifle is feared for good reason. But in the high-speed muscle fights, you will NOT have enough time to line up a proper shot, and the 15-round magazine means you’ll have less sustained fire. Use a Medium Machine Gun unless you have some very skilled Snipers.

[[Flamethrower]] - The Flamethrower is another weapon that looks better on paper than it does in combat. As long as you’re running like you’re on fire, why not set everyone else on fire too? But unless you like being quite literally on fire, avoid the Flamethrower. Its damage is not high enough to justify its short range and small clip size. Also, ANY damage to the FT will set you on fire. Avoid unless you are making a suicide/novelty car.

One-Shots - I’m using this as a catchall for the [[Mini|Mini Rocket]], [[Light|Light Rocket]], [[Medium|Medium Rocket]], and [[Heavy|Heavy Rocket]] Rockets and their respective Racks and Pods. A One-Shot mounted next to your primary weapon can give a low-armor opponent a serious case of the breaches. Given that you’ll need to use your driver to man it and you only have a single shot with them, you need to time your shots carefully to hit an enemy’s weak side from close range. But a well-placed rocket can shorten a duel by several turns. My personal favorite is a toss-up between a [[Light Rocket Rack]] (3 shots, triple the fun!) and a single [[Heavy Rocket]]. (Make a Big Bang!)
As appealing as One-Shots are, NEVER compromise your primary firepower to fit in a bigger One-Shot. Your main weapon is your cake, your One-Shot is your icing.

== Section 2: Let’s Talk Tactics ==

=== Strategy and Combat Roles ===

Muscle tactics fall into four general areas: '''Kiting, Strafing, Dueling''' and '''Chasing'''. Which one of these you perform depends a great deal on the situation of the rest of your scout, so LISTEN to your squadmates. Clear communication can make the difference between a successful scout and a disaster.

*'''Kiting''' - Kiting is distracting the AI opponents. Run fast around them, OUTSIDE of their Line of Fire, and see who peels off to chase you. You don’t need to get the whole group’s attention, and every enemy that’s chasing you is one less that’s firing on your buddies. If none of them chase you, you can start '''Strafing''' their stragglers. If you only pull one enemy, you have a good chance to '''Duel''' it into submission, but if you have more than one, keep running until the rest of your squad is done with their portion and ready to peel them off of you. Kiting can also put you into position to '''Strafe''' stragglers or '''Clip''' artillery wagons.

*'''Strafing''' - Strafing is, in essence, attacking a group of enemies at high speed. Get your speed up - between 60 and 80 is ideal - and pick your closest target. Take several turns to plan out your approach, and check your target’s weapon arcs carefully. A rear strike is ideal on a [[Mutant Marauder]], but not a good idea against a [[Poltergeist]]. NEVER aim straight in at your target, aim slightly to one side. Keep your speed up as you make your attack run, fire a few times, then move on to the next target. You don’t need to kill your target, just sting it. Then you can move onto the next target or break off and set up for another run.

Related to strafing is '''Clipping'''. AI cars with Grenade Launchers and Mortars can be deadly because they tend to hide behind their consorts while showering a squad with high-explosive rain. But a muscle car or two can sometimes loop behind the consorts and knock out or distract an artillery vehicle. Even if the artillery is only distracted, you've bought your teammates a moment of respite from the falling shells.

Clipping an artillery car is risky, but can be done with enough speed. Drop your speed to 40 as you start firing, concentrate your fire on one armor facing, and get your teeth in. If the target or another car seems to be turning for you, accelerate out of danger, rinse, and repeat until your target is dead.

*'''Dueling''' - This is the opposite of Strafing. You’re getting in, going in for the kill, doing it for the thrill. As the name suggests, you’re going for a single opponent, and you’re not giving up until they’re dead in the desert.

First, know your opponent. Know exactly what weapons it has, know his firing arcs, and figure out how to get your teeth into him without getting bitten. In almost every duel, you WILL be outgunned, use your maneuverability to stay out of his fire zones. Taking some fire is all right, but spread it out among your sides, but focus your fire on one or two of his facets. Watch your ammunition level, and leave your opponent lamed and burning.

*'''Chasing''' - During trader hunts, this is where the muscle shows its true strengths. While your heavier allies are hammering the cargo escorts into scrap, your job is simple: keep the cargo from getting away.

Communicate with other chasers, make sure all of the runners are covered and none get to 350 meters.

Runners are fairly dumb AIs, they run away from the closest player. You can use this to your advantage if you can get one muscle in front of the pack, they’ll turn back toward your heavies or scatter into rough terrain. Most runners have heavy rear guns, so don’t get too close. With enough carnage among the escorts, traders will demoralize, but to maximize salvage, it’s a good idea to start shooting at traders when the escort is mostly demoralized. This increases the runners’ stress level and brings them closer to demoralizing. You DON’T want to actually breach them unless you’re in serious danger, but stressing them can shorten the scout by several turns.

Of all the cargo vehicles, [[Trade Runner]]s are the sole exception - you want to kill them, or at least silence their guns. They very rarely carry good cargo, and their heavy artillery can be lethal to chasers. The best tactic for bringing a Trade Runner down is to use two cars to go at its flanks and front and kill its engine. If you can't spare a second car, use terrain to shield yourself from its guns until you can get beside it. Get your teeth into its flank, and don't let go.

'''All-Muscle Squads'''

For an all-muscle squad, forming a line like a conventional scout squad is a recipe for suicide. I've found that the best strategy revolves around breaking your force into units of 2 or 3 cars each, and each attack group picks a target to duel. Running for a time is a good way to break an opposing force up, and then the attack groups can turn on individual enemies. Go in fast and hard, and kill the enemy as fast as possible.

=== Turn By Turn ===

Once the bullets start flying, fighting with a muscle becomes brutally simple: stay out of your enemy’s fire zones and keep your guns on your opponent. Have a working knowledge of the basic Somerset [[NPC Vehicles|NPC designs]] and what gun is on which facing. While avoiding fire is always a must, especially avoid rocket launchers, HMGs, and MMLs - the kinetic impact can badly affect your handling. Pick a target facing and pour your fire into it.

Knowing your car is especially important for muscle drivers. For your first couple outings with a chassis you’re not familiar with, take it out with a group on relatively low-risk scouts until you’re used to the handling. Alternately, load it into DW: Tactical and take it through some paces, get used to how it handles on sand and rock and asphalt.

'''Tactical Kiting'''

This is fancy verbiage for using your buddies as bait. Keep an eye on all your buddies - enemies who are going for your wingman can be vulnerable themselves to a sustained side or rear attack. And if an enemy is on your tail, you may be able to lure it into your allies' loving embrace, if you don't mind losing some armor in the doing.

'''A Note On The Handbrake'''

Used properly and sparingly, the handbrake can be the best medicine for a tight situation. But like all remedies, it's best used in moderation.

When you're moving at high speed in a tight turn, the handbrake can sometimes enable you to turn 180 or 270 degrees in a single turn, at the cost of a fair chunk of your speed. This can be very useful at the end of an attack run, but losing that much of your speed can be lethal. Use with caution.

== Chassis Appendix ==

[[Phoenix]] - The venerable Phoenix is probably your first muscle car, as it’s the most common in [[Somerset]], and even as you move onto better muscles, Phoenixes remain the best option for training drivers, because replacements can always be found. I’ve found them generally forgiving of newbie driving mistakes. Like all muscles, they have a tendency to drift and tend to lose armor to terrain.

[[Sunrise]] - The [[Phoenix]]’s twin. The [[Sunrise]] and [[Phoenix]] are identical in the garage, with identical armor, engine, and bulk characteristics. But out in the wild, the Sunrise is quite different from its sibling. The Sunrise tends to handle differently, softer and with a pronounced drift. After turning at high speed, it’s not uncommon to drift on your original course for several turns. The Sunrise demands planning four or five turns ahead. For all its faults, the [[Sunrise]] is marginally faster than the Phoenix and tends to lose less armor to terrain.

[[Vampire]] - It’s easy to see the rental [[Desert Striker]] as representative of the Vampire, even to take it for a spin, but the rental’s Standard Tyres cripple the Striker’s beautiful possiblities. The Vampire drives like a [[Phoenix]] on steroids, but the increased responsiveness comes at the cost of 10 bulk. The [[Desert Striker]] build is almost overgunned, because with the [[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]], you don’t have room for a single reload with a gunner. Switching the HMG for an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], you make one of the best combat cars in Evan, because then you can fit in a gunner, a reload and a [[Light Rocket]]. This build is one I’ve used to solo-kill [[Poltergeist|Poltergeists]] and [[Mutant Bomber|Mutant Bombers]], and once scored three kills in a single scout. Never, ever underestimate the Vampire. The Vampire truly shines with a 3.2 v8 under the hood.
On the other hand, the Vampire seems to be a bit more fragile than the [[Phoenix]], so use it with care.

[[Bullet]] - It’s easy to dismiss the Bullet as a Redneck Racer, since it is a Ford Fusion, the NASCAR car. But I’ve found the Bullet to be a surprisingly flexible hunter on the battlefield. It’s a fair sight faster than either the [[Phoenix]] or the [[Sunrise]], and very maneuverable. With a good driver, I feel like my Bullet is reading my mind, like it’ll do precisely what I ask it to, with a minimum of drifting. Low bulk is certainly an issue, but with a [[Medium Machine Gun]] and a [[Mini Rocket Pod]] or a [[Light Rocket]], the Bullet is a nasty little predator.

[[Buccaneer]] - The Bucky is one of the larger muscle cars, but it also has a slightly lower armor value. On the other hand, being able to fit a 5L engine, a MMG, and a gunner in makes it SPEEDY. Or you can fit in a 4L and free up 20 bulk for reloads, One-Shots, or even a secondary Gatling for your driver. I’ve seen a few people mount an [[Anti-Tank Gun]] in a Buccaneer, but that takes it out of the Muscle category and places it into a Sedan class, tactically, because there is NO WAY you can maintain speed and control while firing an ATG.

[[Flash]] - The Mini Muscle. With a 2L engine, it’s almost as fast as a 4L Phoenix, and it is so light and fast that it’s a joy to drive. The downside is, you have paper armor, not much of it, and you will have 40 bulk with a gunner. That’s enough for a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], a reload, and a Light Rocket. I wouldn’t recommend mounting anything heavier than a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] on this chassis, it’s very susceptible to recoil.

[[Pike]] - The [[Pike]] is the [[Sunrise]]’s bigger, nastier brother. If you think a Sunrise is too bouncy, walk straight past this baby. Fire 1 shot from a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] and watch this thing bounce for 4 turns. Sitting still and getting shot will leave you bouncing wildly and struggling for traction and any ability of escape. Even under MML or MG fire you may find yourself stuck for 4-5 seconds hoping it doesn't roll. All that said, it drives over the rough stuff real well (with care) and is fast. Takes some time to get used to the handling (ghost)and tends to understeer heaps into a corner (especially if you fill its huge engine bay with motor) and oversteer once it does start to turn. Once you do get used to this though and drive accordingly, shes a dream to drive and low speed maneuverability is amazing. Reasonable armour. - Bastiel

[[Flail]] - The [[Flail]] has almost sedan-like bulk available and heavy armor. Well, it's more like driving a mini SUV than a musclecar depending on how you arm it, but for a musclecar, boy does it have a lot of armor and almost as much capacity as the [[Osprey]]... and thats about it. - FireFly

The [[Flail]] also has a wide turning radius that should be accounted for. With a 3.2Lv8 and a HCR or Laser it makes a good sniper. - Tango

[[Osprey]] - It has decent handling, not the best, but there are worse. The main issue is that if you get locked into a slide, it can take some turns to get back to moving straight. The main strength lies in it's huge capacity, with a crew of 2 and a 3.2lv8, you still have room for 110 bulk worth of weapons, for example, a [[Heavy Car Rifle|HCR]]/[[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]] combo works surprisingly well, but the real fun with that is that it's the most heavily armed musclecar around, and kicks the living snot out of other muscles, if you can handle the weight... - FireFly

[[Roadrunner]] - It handles like a heavy Phoenix. It has the chassis strength of a [[Chomper]]. With the addition of a HUGE motor capacity, this car might fly if not for the downforce supplied by the extraordinarily large rear wing.

It is VERY rare to find one of these beautiful cars. You might not want to risk it ANYWHERE once you do find it.
If you do find one, you`ll be pleasantly surprised at it`s armor capacity and bulk available. - JD Basher

[[Moray]] - No middle ground really, people seem to either love them or hate them. Morays are a bit pricey for something with less armour than a [[Phoenix|Pho,]] but they will take a 5LV8 unexposed, making them a speedy travel car.
They do VERY well with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Like the [[Sunrise]], they can be a bit drifty at high speeds, do not expect radical changes in direction, and this chassis can be quite unforgiving if you oversteer, though they rarely turtle.
There is, however, definitely a learning curve to overcome when using this chassis.
Expect to spin out and lose all of your momentum if you expect too much.

At slower speeds, such as when the dogfight has gone to hell, you can get a 90 degree turn out of this car, easily, assuming you have no major recoil happening from weapons fire, and a good bit more if you like using the handbrake. You can stay inside the turning arc of most NPC vehicles with ease, chewing away at them the whole time. As with all muscle cars, recoil can be an issue with heavier weapons.
Personally, after a good bit of trial and error, I have found that an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Machine Gun|MG]] combo works very well. An [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Micromissile Launcher|MMLs]] combo is effective as well, but one must keep in mind the ammo limitations [[Micromissile Launcher|MML]] have.
As with any muscle car, DON'T STOP unless it's going to give you a BIG tactical advantage.
The [[Moray]] can be a bit more forgiving in slow speed situations than other muscle cars due to it's tight turning radius, but it's best not to get INTO that situation if you don't have to. -Rev. V

[[Corghette]] - A dead sexy little racer - the Corghette is closest in handling to a tighter [[Vampire]] with one major difference. On rough terrain, it's entirely possible to get the Corghette stuck nose-and-tail on terrain, with none of its tires in contact with the ground. If it doesn't get stuck, it's a very responsive and deadly car, with 5 more bulk than the [[Vampire]]. Like the [[Vampire]], the Corghette shines with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Properly handled with an eye for terrain, the Corgy will serve you very well.

[[Category: Guides]]

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2011-08-14T22:44:38Z

Fifth: /* Strategy and Combat Roles */

The muscle car is one of the true joys of Darkwind. Neither well armored nor well armed, its primary asset in the wilderness is its speed and maneuverability. Wilderness battles have been won against enormous odds because of one or two well-employed muscle cars.

Muscles are also indispensable for hunting Traders, because only muscle cars can chase down and corral fleeing cargo vehicles.

But muscle cars are terribly vulnerable when exchanging fire with the enemy, due to their light armor and weapon loads, and their high speed can be as much a vulnerability as an asset. The difference between a victorious muscle and a very fast coffin is forethought and planning.

This manual is broken into several sections. First I’ll go over what a muscle car is, and setting up your muscle, and I’ll go over different weapons. Then will be basic strategies and tactics, and I’ll close with the Chassis Appendix, going over the chassis one by one.

== Section 1: Setting Up ==

=== What Is (And Isn’t) A Muscle? ===

A muscle is a midsize car that can mount a big engine unexposed. The [[Windsor]] and [[Windsor II]] are not muscles. No car with an exposed engine should be considered a muscle, as they are too vulnerable to survive in a combat zone. Here’s a (partial) list of muscle chassis:

*[[Phoenix]]
*[[Sunrise]]
*[[Vampire]]
*[[Pike]]
*[[Bullet]]
*[[Buccaneer]]
*[[Roadrunner]]
*[[Moray]]
*[[Flail]]
*[[Osprey]]
*[[Stormer]]
*[[Flash]]
*[[Corghette]]

All of these, other than the Flash, can mount a 4L or larger engine unexposed. The Flash is included because of its sheer speed and ability to accept an engine disproportionately large for its size. I’ll go into each of these chassis in detail in the Chassis Appendix.

=== Setting Up ===

'''Engine'''
In general, you want at least a 4L engine or a 3.2LV8. A full-sized muscle with a 3.2L engine isn’t a muscle at all, it’s a coffin.

'''Armor'''
Max out your front, put 5 on your top and bottom, and distribute the rest evenly between your sides and rear. Class B - NEVER C. A-class armor is tempting and gives a nice speed boost, but is awfully expensive to keep repaired.

'''Fuel'''
A 2-unit tank is sufficient for most muscle operations. An extra unit or two on top of that can enable your muscle scouts to go further out and improve your odds.

'''Tyres'''
Offroad all the way. Handling is everything to a muscle. The exception to this is if you’re working in rough terrain, then you need Reinforced.

'''Crew'''
Driver and gunner. Putting in 2 gunners takes up too much valuable space. Your driver should have at least 20 skill, but 40 is really preferred. With more driving skill, you’ll accelerate faster and you’ll be more stable. Your gunner should have at least some Gunnery skill, but muscles are a good way to train gunners.

'''Weapons'''
Front, front, front. You want your weapons on the FRONT. Side mounts are possible, but not generally recommended. Rear mounts sound good on paper, but they’re actually very difficult to use in practice.

Here’s your menu of killware:

[[Machine Gun]] - The vanilla option. Don’t knock it, a pair of these on the front of a muscle can really chew through enemy armor over the long run, and they have decent range and accuracy. The downside is, you need a pair to make a decent punch, and your driver will have to man one of them. Your accuracy with that gun will be lower.

[[Gatling Gun]] - The [[Machine Gun]] on steroids. The downside is, its range is shorter and you NEED two of them to make a decent punch, so your driver better have decent Gunnery skills. Watch out for the increased recoil - sustained fire can really slow you down.

[[Micromissile Launcher]] - Like the Machine Gun and Gatling Gun, the MML is small enough to be fitted in pairs, or mixed with a MG or GG. However, I don’t recommend doing so. Having an explosive round is useful in some cases, but there isn’t enough punch to outweigh the low ammunition capacity. Some chassis can accept a MML alongside a [[Medium Machine Gun]] as a driver-controlled secondary weapon, and this is an enormously effective build at short range.

[[Medium Machine Gun]] - My favorite muscle weapon. Decent damage, manageable recoil, good ammo supply, and low bulk. You will NOT have enough room for 2 of them, but that’s not a bad thing, you’ll be able to fit several reloads or a One-Shot secondary. Putting in just one gun lets your gunner concentrate on killing properly.

[[Heavy Machine Gun]] - One of the heaviest weapons available to muscles, the HMG should be deployed with care. Its recoil is hard enough to seriously affect your handling, and its 40 bulk will generally limit you to a single reload. On the other hand, its sheer power and ammo capacity can sometimes outweigh its bulk.

[[Rocket Launcher]] - The Rocket Launcher is a sledgehammer of muscle weapons. Peeling 3 or 4 off an enemy with a single hit is very tempting, to say the least. But the 10-round clip means you’ll be reloading mid-fight, and you generally will only have room for a single reload. Having only 20 rounds of fire means you have to hit Every. Single. Time. Also, the large blast radius can make a lot of problems for you in a tight, up-close fight.

[[Heavy Gatling Gun]] - Rare and powerful, the HGG is better mounted on an SUV than a muscle. Its fierce recoil will throw you all over the place.

[[Car Rifle]] - The Sniper’s Best Friend, the Car Rifle is feared for good reason. But in the high-speed muscle fights, you will NOT have enough time to line up a proper shot, and the 15-round magazine means you’ll have less sustained fire. Use a Medium Machine Gun unless you have some very skilled Snipers.

[[Flamethrower]] - The Flamethrower is another weapon that looks better on paper than it does in combat. As long as you’re running like you’re on fire, why not set everyone else on fire too? But unless you like being quite literally on fire, avoid the Flamethrower. Its damage is not high enough to justify its short range and small clip size. Also, ANY damage to the FT will set you on fire. Avoid unless you are making a suicide/novelty car.

One-Shots - I’m using this as a catchall for the [[Mini|Mini Rocket]], [[Light|Light Rocket]], [[Medium|Medium Rocket]], and [[Heavy|Heavy Rocket]] Rockets and their respective Racks and Pods. A One-Shot mounted next to your primary weapon can give a low-armor opponent a serious case of the breaches. Given that you’ll need to use your driver to man it and you only have a single shot with them, you need to time your shots carefully to hit an enemy’s weak side from close range. But a well-placed rocket can shorten a duel by several turns. My personal favorite is a toss-up between a [[Light Rocket Rack]] (3 shots, triple the fun!) and a single [[Heavy Rocket]]. (Make a Big Bang!)
As appealing as One-Shots are, NEVER compromise your primary firepower to fit in a bigger One-Shot. Your main weapon is your cake, your One-Shot is your icing.

== Section 2: Let’s Talk Tactics ==

=== Strategy and Combat Roles ===

Muscle tactics fall into four general areas: '''Kiting, Strafing, Dueling''' and '''Chasing'''. Which one of these you perform depends a great deal on the situation of the rest of your scout, so LISTEN to your squadmates. Clear communication can make the difference between a successful scout and a disaster.

*'''Kiting''' - Kiting is distracting the AI opponents. Run fast around them, OUTSIDE of their Line of Fire, and see who peels off to chase you. You don’t need to get the whole group’s attention, and every enemy that’s chasing you is one less that’s firing on your buddies. If none of them chase you, you can start '''Strafing''' their stragglers. If you only pull one enemy, you have a good chance to '''Duel''' it into submission, but if you have more than one, keep running until the rest of your squad is done with their portion and ready to peel them off of you. Kiting can also put you into position to '''Strafe''' stragglers or '''Clip''' artillery wagons.

*'''Strafing''' - Strafing is, in essence, attacking a group of enemies at high speed. Get your speed up - between 60 and 80 is ideal - and pick your closest target. Take several turns to plan out your approach, and check your target’s weapon arcs carefully. A rear strike is ideal on a [[Mutant Marauder]], but not a good idea against a [[Poltergeist]]. NEVER aim straight in at your target, aim slightly to one side. Keep your speed up as you make your attack run, fire a few times, then move on to the next target. You don’t need to kill your target, just sting it. Then you can move onto the next target or break off and set up for another run.

In an all-muscle scout squad in wide-open terrain, strafing is the best tactical option. Either form a loose column on the squad leader, with every car taking turns on a single target, or every car makes staggered attack runs on different targets.

Related to strafing is '''Clipping'''. AI cars with Grenade Launchers and Mortars can be deadly because they tend to hide behind their consorts while showering a squad with high-explosive rain. But a muscle car or two can sometimes loop behind the consorts and knock out or distract an artillery vehicle. Even if the artillery is only distracted, you've bought your teammates a moment of respite from the falling shells.

Clipping an artillery car is risky, but can be done with enough speed. Drop your speed to 40 as you start firing, concentrate your fire on one armor facing, and get your teeth in. If the target or another car seems to be turning for you, accelerate out of danger, rinse, and repeat until your target is dead.

*'''Dueling''' - This is the opposite of Strafing. You’re getting in, going in for the kill, doing it for the thrill. As the name suggests, you’re going for a single opponent, and you’re not giving up until they’re dead in the desert.

First, know your opponent. Know exactly what weapons it has, know his firing arcs, and figure out how to get your teeth into him without getting bitten. In almost every duel, you WILL be outgunned, use your maneuverability to stay out of his fire zones. Taking some fire is all right, but spread it out among your sides, but focus your fire on one or two of his facets. Watch your ammunition level, and leave your opponent lamed and burning.

*'''Chasing''' - During trader hunts, this is where the muscle shows its true strengths. While your heavier allies are hammering the cargo escorts into scrap, your job is simple: keep the cargo from getting away.

Communicate with other chasers, make sure all of the runners are covered and none get to 350 meters.

Runners are fairly dumb AIs, they run away from the closest player. You can use this to your advantage if you can get one muscle in front of the pack, they’ll turn back toward your heavies or scatter into rough terrain. Most runners have heavy rear guns, so don’t get too close. With enough carnage among the escorts, traders will demoralize, but to maximize salvage, it’s a good idea to start shooting at traders when the escort is mostly demoralized. This increases the runners’ stress level and brings them closer to demoralizing. You DON’T want to actually breach them unless you’re in serious danger, but stressing them can shorten the scout by several turns.

Of all the cargo vehicles, [[Trade Runner]]s are the sole exception - you want to kill them, or at least silence their guns. They very rarely carry good cargo, and their heavy artillery can be lethal to chasers. The best tactic for bringing a Trade Runner down is to use two cars to go at its flanks and front and kill its engine. If you can't spare a second car, use terrain to shield yourself from its guns until you can get beside it. Get your teeth into its flank, and don't let go.

=== Turn By Turn ===

Once the bullets start flying, fighting with a muscle becomes brutally simple: stay out of your enemy’s fire zones and keep your guns on your opponent. Have a working knowledge of the basic Somerset [[NPC Vehicles|NPC designs]] and what gun is on which facing. While avoiding fire is always a must, especially avoid rocket launchers, HMGs, and MMLs - the kinetic impact can badly affect your handling. Pick a target facing and pour your fire into it.

Knowing your car is especially important for muscle drivers. For your first couple outings with a chassis you’re not familiar with, take it out with a group on relatively low-risk scouts until you’re used to the handling. Alternately, load it into DW: Tactical and take it through some paces, get used to how it handles on sand and rock and asphalt.

'''Tactical Kiting'''

This is fancy verbiage for using your buddies as bait. Keep an eye on all your buddies - enemies who are going for your wingman can be vulnerable themselves to a sustained side or rear attack. And if an enemy is on your tail, you may be able to lure it into your allies' loving embrace, if you don't mind losing some armor in the doing.

'''A Note On The Handbrake'''

Used properly and sparingly, the handbrake can be the best medicine for a tight situation. But like all remedies, it's best used in moderation.

When you're moving at high speed in a tight turn, the handbrake can sometimes enable you to turn 180 or 270 degrees in a single turn, at the cost of a fair chunk of your speed. This can be very useful at the end of an attack run, but losing that much of your speed can be lethal. Use with caution.

== Chassis Appendix ==

[[Phoenix]] - The venerable Phoenix is probably your first muscle car, as it’s the most common in [[Somerset]], and even as you move onto better muscles, Phoenixes remain the best option for training drivers, because replacements can always be found. I’ve found them generally forgiving of newbie driving mistakes. Like all muscles, they have a tendency to drift and tend to lose armor to terrain.

[[Sunrise]] - The [[Phoenix]]’s twin. The [[Sunrise]] and [[Phoenix]] are identical in the garage, with identical armor, engine, and bulk characteristics. But out in the wild, the Sunrise is quite different from its sibling. The Sunrise tends to handle differently, softer and with a pronounced drift. After turning at high speed, it’s not uncommon to drift on your original course for several turns. The Sunrise demands planning four or five turns ahead. For all its faults, the [[Sunrise]] is marginally faster than the Phoenix and tends to lose less armor to terrain.

[[Vampire]] - It’s easy to see the rental [[Desert Striker]] as representative of the Vampire, even to take it for a spin, but the rental’s Standard Tyres cripple the Striker’s beautiful possiblities. The Vampire drives like a [[Phoenix]] on steroids, but the increased responsiveness comes at the cost of 10 bulk. The [[Desert Striker]] build is almost overgunned, because with the [[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]], you don’t have room for a single reload with a gunner. Switching the HMG for an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], you make one of the best combat cars in Evan, because then you can fit in a gunner, a reload and a [[Light Rocket]]. This build is one I’ve used to solo-kill [[Poltergeist|Poltergeists]] and [[Mutant Bomber|Mutant Bombers]], and once scored three kills in a single scout. Never, ever underestimate the Vampire. The Vampire truly shines with a 3.2 v8 under the hood.
On the other hand, the Vampire seems to be a bit more fragile than the [[Phoenix]], so use it with care.

[[Bullet]] - It’s easy to dismiss the Bullet as a Redneck Racer, since it is a Ford Fusion, the NASCAR car. But I’ve found the Bullet to be a surprisingly flexible hunter on the battlefield. It’s a fair sight faster than either the [[Phoenix]] or the [[Sunrise]], and very maneuverable. With a good driver, I feel like my Bullet is reading my mind, like it’ll do precisely what I ask it to, with a minimum of drifting. Low bulk is certainly an issue, but with a [[Medium Machine Gun]] and a [[Mini Rocket Pod]] or a [[Light Rocket]], the Bullet is a nasty little predator.

[[Buccaneer]] - The Bucky is one of the larger muscle cars, but it also has a slightly lower armor value. On the other hand, being able to fit a 5L engine, a MMG, and a gunner in makes it SPEEDY. Or you can fit in a 4L and free up 20 bulk for reloads, One-Shots, or even a secondary Gatling for your driver. I’ve seen a few people mount an [[Anti-Tank Gun]] in a Buccaneer, but that takes it out of the Muscle category and places it into a Sedan class, tactically, because there is NO WAY you can maintain speed and control while firing an ATG.

[[Flash]] - The Mini Muscle. With a 2L engine, it’s almost as fast as a 4L Phoenix, and it is so light and fast that it’s a joy to drive. The downside is, you have paper armor, not much of it, and you will have 40 bulk with a gunner. That’s enough for a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], a reload, and a Light Rocket. I wouldn’t recommend mounting anything heavier than a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] on this chassis, it’s very susceptible to recoil.

[[Pike]] - The [[Pike]] is the [[Sunrise]]’s bigger, nastier brother. If you think a Sunrise is too bouncy, walk straight past this baby. Fire 1 shot from a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] and watch this thing bounce for 4 turns. Sitting still and getting shot will leave you bouncing wildly and struggling for traction and any ability of escape. Even under MML or MG fire you may find yourself stuck for 4-5 seconds hoping it doesn't roll. All that said, it drives over the rough stuff real well (with care) and is fast. Takes some time to get used to the handling (ghost)and tends to understeer heaps into a corner (especially if you fill its huge engine bay with motor) and oversteer once it does start to turn. Once you do get used to this though and drive accordingly, shes a dream to drive and low speed maneuverability is amazing. Reasonable armour. - Bastiel

[[Flail]] - The [[Flail]] has almost sedan-like bulk available and heavy armor. Well, it's more like driving a mini SUV than a musclecar depending on how you arm it, but for a musclecar, boy does it have a lot of armor and almost as much capacity as the [[Osprey]]... and thats about it. - FireFly

The [[Flail]] also has a wide turning radius that should be accounted for. With a 3.2Lv8 and a HCR or Laser it makes a good sniper. - Tango

[[Osprey]] - It has decent handling, not the best, but there are worse. The main issue is that if you get locked into a slide, it can take some turns to get back to moving straight. The main strength lies in it's huge capacity, with a crew of 2 and a 3.2lv8, you still have room for 110 bulk worth of weapons, for example, a [[Heavy Car Rifle|HCR]]/[[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]] combo works surprisingly well, but the real fun with that is that it's the most heavily armed musclecar around, and kicks the living snot out of other muscles, if you can handle the weight... - FireFly

[[Roadrunner]] - It handles like a heavy Phoenix. It has the chassis strength of a [[Chomper]]. With the addition of a HUGE motor capacity, this car might fly if not for the downforce supplied by the extraordinarily large rear wing.

It is VERY rare to find one of these beautiful cars. You might not want to risk it ANYWHERE once you do find it.
If you do find one, you`ll be pleasantly surprised at it`s armor capacity and bulk available. - JD Basher

[[Moray]] - No middle ground really, people seem to either love them or hate them. Morays are a bit pricey for something with less armour than a [[Phoenix|Pho,]] but they will take a 5LV8 unexposed, making them a speedy travel car.
They do VERY well with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Like the [[Sunrise]], they can be a bit drifty at high speeds, do not expect radical changes in direction, and this chassis can be quite unforgiving if you oversteer, though they rarely turtle.
There is, however, definitely a learning curve to overcome when using this chassis.
Expect to spin out and lose all of your momentum if you expect too much.

At slower speeds, such as when the dogfight has gone to hell, you can get a 90 degree turn out of this car, easily, assuming you have no major recoil happening from weapons fire, and a good bit more if you like using the handbrake. You can stay inside the turning arc of most NPC vehicles with ease, chewing away at them the whole time. As with all muscle cars, recoil can be an issue with heavier weapons.
Personally, after a good bit of trial and error, I have found that an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Machine Gun|MG]] combo works very well. An [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Micromissile Launcher|MMLs]] combo is effective as well, but one must keep in mind the ammo limitations [[Micromissile Launcher|MML]] have.
As with any muscle car, DON'T STOP unless it's going to give you a BIG tactical advantage.
The [[Moray]] can be a bit more forgiving in slow speed situations than other muscle cars due to it's tight turning radius, but it's best not to get INTO that situation if you don't have to. -Rev. V

[[Corghette]] - A dead sexy little racer - the Corghette is closest in handling to a tighter [[Vampire]] with one major difference. On rough terrain, it's entirely possible to get the Corghette stuck nose-and-tail on terrain, with none of its tires in contact with the ground. If it doesn't get stuck, it's a very responsive and deadly car, with 5 more bulk than the [[Vampire]]. Like the [[Vampire]], the Corghette shines with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Properly handled with an eye for terrain, the Corgy will serve you very well.

[[Category: Guides]]

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2011-08-14T22:40:13Z

Fifth: /* Strategy and Combat Roles */ - updated to reflect paint changes.

The muscle car is one of the true joys of Darkwind. Neither well armored nor well armed, its primary asset in the wilderness is its speed and maneuverability. Wilderness battles have been won against enormous odds because of one or two well-employed muscle cars.

Muscles are also indispensable for hunting Traders, because only muscle cars can chase down and corral fleeing cargo vehicles.

But muscle cars are terribly vulnerable when exchanging fire with the enemy, due to their light armor and weapon loads, and their high speed can be as much a vulnerability as an asset. The difference between a victorious muscle and a very fast coffin is forethought and planning.

This manual is broken into several sections. First I’ll go over what a muscle car is, and setting up your muscle, and I’ll go over different weapons. Then will be basic strategies and tactics, and I’ll close with the Chassis Appendix, going over the chassis one by one.

== Section 1: Setting Up ==

=== What Is (And Isn’t) A Muscle? ===

A muscle is a midsize car that can mount a big engine unexposed. The [[Windsor]] and [[Windsor II]] are not muscles. No car with an exposed engine should be considered a muscle, as they are too vulnerable to survive in a combat zone. Here’s a (partial) list of muscle chassis:

*[[Phoenix]]
*[[Sunrise]]
*[[Vampire]]
*[[Pike]]
*[[Bullet]]
*[[Buccaneer]]
*[[Roadrunner]]
*[[Moray]]
*[[Flail]]
*[[Osprey]]
*[[Stormer]]
*[[Flash]]
*[[Corghette]]

All of these, other than the Flash, can mount a 4L or larger engine unexposed. The Flash is included because of its sheer speed and ability to accept an engine disproportionately large for its size. I’ll go into each of these chassis in detail in the Chassis Appendix.

=== Setting Up ===

'''Engine'''
In general, you want at least a 4L engine or a 3.2LV8. A full-sized muscle with a 3.2L engine isn’t a muscle at all, it’s a coffin.

'''Armor'''
Max out your front, put 5 on your top and bottom, and distribute the rest evenly between your sides and rear. Class B - NEVER C. A-class armor is tempting and gives a nice speed boost, but is awfully expensive to keep repaired.

'''Fuel'''
A 2-unit tank is sufficient for most muscle operations. An extra unit or two on top of that can enable your muscle scouts to go further out and improve your odds.

'''Tyres'''
Offroad all the way. Handling is everything to a muscle. The exception to this is if you’re working in rough terrain, then you need Reinforced.

'''Crew'''
Driver and gunner. Putting in 2 gunners takes up too much valuable space. Your driver should have at least 20 skill, but 40 is really preferred. With more driving skill, you’ll accelerate faster and you’ll be more stable. Your gunner should have at least some Gunnery skill, but muscles are a good way to train gunners.

'''Weapons'''
Front, front, front. You want your weapons on the FRONT. Side mounts are possible, but not generally recommended. Rear mounts sound good on paper, but they’re actually very difficult to use in practice.

Here’s your menu of killware:

[[Machine Gun]] - The vanilla option. Don’t knock it, a pair of these on the front of a muscle can really chew through enemy armor over the long run, and they have decent range and accuracy. The downside is, you need a pair to make a decent punch, and your driver will have to man one of them. Your accuracy with that gun will be lower.

[[Gatling Gun]] - The [[Machine Gun]] on steroids. The downside is, its range is shorter and you NEED two of them to make a decent punch, so your driver better have decent Gunnery skills. Watch out for the increased recoil - sustained fire can really slow you down.

[[Micromissile Launcher]] - Like the Machine Gun and Gatling Gun, the MML is small enough to be fitted in pairs, or mixed with a MG or GG. However, I don’t recommend doing so. Having an explosive round is useful in some cases, but there isn’t enough punch to outweigh the low ammunition capacity. Some chassis can accept a MML alongside a [[Medium Machine Gun]] as a driver-controlled secondary weapon, and this is an enormously effective build at short range.

[[Medium Machine Gun]] - My favorite muscle weapon. Decent damage, manageable recoil, good ammo supply, and low bulk. You will NOT have enough room for 2 of them, but that’s not a bad thing, you’ll be able to fit several reloads or a One-Shot secondary. Putting in just one gun lets your gunner concentrate on killing properly.

[[Heavy Machine Gun]] - One of the heaviest weapons available to muscles, the HMG should be deployed with care. Its recoil is hard enough to seriously affect your handling, and its 40 bulk will generally limit you to a single reload. On the other hand, its sheer power and ammo capacity can sometimes outweigh its bulk.

[[Rocket Launcher]] - The Rocket Launcher is a sledgehammer of muscle weapons. Peeling 3 or 4 off an enemy with a single hit is very tempting, to say the least. But the 10-round clip means you’ll be reloading mid-fight, and you generally will only have room for a single reload. Having only 20 rounds of fire means you have to hit Every. Single. Time. Also, the large blast radius can make a lot of problems for you in a tight, up-close fight.

[[Heavy Gatling Gun]] - Rare and powerful, the HGG is better mounted on an SUV than a muscle. Its fierce recoil will throw you all over the place.

[[Car Rifle]] - The Sniper’s Best Friend, the Car Rifle is feared for good reason. But in the high-speed muscle fights, you will NOT have enough time to line up a proper shot, and the 15-round magazine means you’ll have less sustained fire. Use a Medium Machine Gun unless you have some very skilled Snipers.

[[Flamethrower]] - The Flamethrower is another weapon that looks better on paper than it does in combat. As long as you’re running like you’re on fire, why not set everyone else on fire too? But unless you like being quite literally on fire, avoid the Flamethrower. Its damage is not high enough to justify its short range and small clip size. Also, ANY damage to the FT will set you on fire. Avoid unless you are making a suicide/novelty car.

One-Shots - I’m using this as a catchall for the [[Mini|Mini Rocket]], [[Light|Light Rocket]], [[Medium|Medium Rocket]], and [[Heavy|Heavy Rocket]] Rockets and their respective Racks and Pods. A One-Shot mounted next to your primary weapon can give a low-armor opponent a serious case of the breaches. Given that you’ll need to use your driver to man it and you only have a single shot with them, you need to time your shots carefully to hit an enemy’s weak side from close range. But a well-placed rocket can shorten a duel by several turns. My personal favorite is a toss-up between a [[Light Rocket Rack]] (3 shots, triple the fun!) and a single [[Heavy Rocket]]. (Make a Big Bang!)
As appealing as One-Shots are, NEVER compromise your primary firepower to fit in a bigger One-Shot. Your main weapon is your cake, your One-Shot is your icing.

== Section 2: Let’s Talk Tactics ==

=== Strategy and Combat Roles ===

Muscle tactics fall into four general areas: '''Kiting, Strafing, Dueling''' and '''Chasing'''. Which one of these you perform depends a great deal on the situation of the rest of your scout, so LISTEN to your squadmates. Clear communication can make the difference between a successful scout and a disaster.

*'''Kiting''' - Kiting is distracting the AI opponents. Run fast around them, OUTSIDE of their Line of Fire, and see who peels off to chase you. You don’t need to get the whole group’s attention, and every enemy that’s chasing you is one less that’s firing on your buddies. If none of them chase you, you can start '''Strafing''' their stragglers. If you only pull one enemy, you have a good chance to '''Duel''' it into submission, but if you have more than one, keep running until the rest of your squad is done with their portion and ready to peel them off of you. Kiting can also put you into position to '''Strafe''' stragglers or '''Clip''' artillery wagons.

*'''Strafing''' - Strafing is, in essence, attacking a group of enemies at high speed. Get your speed up - between 60 and 80 is ideal - and pick your closest target. Take several turns to plan out your approach, and check your target’s weapon arcs carefully. A rear strike is ideal on a [[Mutant Marauder]], but not a good idea against a [[Poltergeist]]. NEVER aim straight in at your target, aim slightly to one side. Keep your speed up as you make your attack run, fire a few times, then move on to the next target. You don’t need to kill your target, just sting it. Then you can move onto the next target or break off and set up for another run.

In an all-muscle scout squad in wide-open terrain, strafing is the best tactical option. Either form a loose column on the squad leader, with every car taking turns on a single target, or every car makes staggered attack runs on different targets.

Related to strafing is '''Clipping'''. AI cars with Grenade Launchers and Mortars can be deadly because they tend to hide behind their consorts while showering a squad with high-explosive rain. But a muscle car or two can sometimes loop behind the consorts and knock out or distract an artillery vehicle. Even if the artillery is only distracted, you've bought your teammates a moment of respite from the falling shells.

Clipping an artillery car is risky, but can be done with enough speed. Drop your speed to 40 as you start firing, concentrate your fire on one armor facing, and get your teeth in. If the target or another car seems to be turning for you, accelerate out of danger, rinse, and repeat until your target is dead.

*'''Dueling''' - This is the opposite of Strafing. You’re getting in, going in for the kill, doing it for the thrill. As the name suggests, you’re going for a single opponent, and you’re not giving up until they’re dead in the desert.

First, know your opponent. Know exactly what weapons it has, know his firing arcs, and figure out how to get your teeth into him without getting bitten. In almost every duel, you WILL be outgunned, use your maneuverability to stay out of his fire zones. Taking some fire is all right, but spread it out among your sides, but focus your fire on one or two of his facets. Watch your ammunition level, and leave your opponent lamed and burning.

*'''Chasing''' - During trader hunts, this is where the muscle shows its true strengths. While your heavier allies are hammering the cargo escorts into scrap, your job is simple: keep the cargo from getting away.

Communicate with other chasers, make sure all of the runners are covered and none get to 350 meters.

Runners are fairly dumb AIs, they run away from the closest player. You can use this to your advantage if you can get one muscle in front of the pack, they’ll turn back toward your heavies or scatter into rough terrain. Most runners have heavy rear guns, so don’t get too close. With enough carnage among the escorts, traders will demoralize, but to maximize salvage, it’s a good idea to start shooting at traders when the escort is mostly demoralized. This increases the runners’ stress level and brings them closer to demoralizing. You DON’T want to actually breach them unless you’re in serious danger, but stressing them can shorten the scout by several turns.

=== Turn By Turn ===

Once the bullets start flying, fighting with a muscle becomes brutally simple: stay out of your enemy’s fire zones and keep your guns on your opponent. Have a working knowledge of the basic Somerset [[NPC Vehicles|NPC designs]] and what gun is on which facing. While avoiding fire is always a must, especially avoid rocket launchers, HMGs, and MMLs - the kinetic impact can badly affect your handling. Pick a target facing and pour your fire into it.

Knowing your car is especially important for muscle drivers. For your first couple outings with a chassis you’re not familiar with, take it out with a group on relatively low-risk scouts until you’re used to the handling. Alternately, load it into DW: Tactical and take it through some paces, get used to how it handles on sand and rock and asphalt.

'''Tactical Kiting'''

This is fancy verbiage for using your buddies as bait. Keep an eye on all your buddies - enemies who are going for your wingman can be vulnerable themselves to a sustained side or rear attack. And if an enemy is on your tail, you may be able to lure it into your allies' loving embrace, if you don't mind losing some armor in the doing.

'''A Note On The Handbrake'''

Used properly and sparingly, the handbrake can be the best medicine for a tight situation. But like all remedies, it's best used in moderation.

When you're moving at high speed in a tight turn, the handbrake can sometimes enable you to turn 180 or 270 degrees in a single turn, at the cost of a fair chunk of your speed. This can be very useful at the end of an attack run, but losing that much of your speed can be lethal. Use with caution.

== Chassis Appendix ==

[[Phoenix]] - The venerable Phoenix is probably your first muscle car, as it’s the most common in [[Somerset]], and even as you move onto better muscles, Phoenixes remain the best option for training drivers, because replacements can always be found. I’ve found them generally forgiving of newbie driving mistakes. Like all muscles, they have a tendency to drift and tend to lose armor to terrain.

[[Sunrise]] - The [[Phoenix]]’s twin. The [[Sunrise]] and [[Phoenix]] are identical in the garage, with identical armor, engine, and bulk characteristics. But out in the wild, the Sunrise is quite different from its sibling. The Sunrise tends to handle differently, softer and with a pronounced drift. After turning at high speed, it’s not uncommon to drift on your original course for several turns. The Sunrise demands planning four or five turns ahead. For all its faults, the [[Sunrise]] is marginally faster than the Phoenix and tends to lose less armor to terrain.

[[Vampire]] - It’s easy to see the rental [[Desert Striker]] as representative of the Vampire, even to take it for a spin, but the rental’s Standard Tyres cripple the Striker’s beautiful possiblities. The Vampire drives like a [[Phoenix]] on steroids, but the increased responsiveness comes at the cost of 10 bulk. The [[Desert Striker]] build is almost overgunned, because with the [[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]], you don’t have room for a single reload with a gunner. Switching the HMG for an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], you make one of the best combat cars in Evan, because then you can fit in a gunner, a reload and a [[Light Rocket]]. This build is one I’ve used to solo-kill [[Poltergeist|Poltergeists]] and [[Mutant Bomber|Mutant Bombers]], and once scored three kills in a single scout. Never, ever underestimate the Vampire. The Vampire truly shines with a 3.2 v8 under the hood.
On the other hand, the Vampire seems to be a bit more fragile than the [[Phoenix]], so use it with care.

[[Bullet]] - It’s easy to dismiss the Bullet as a Redneck Racer, since it is a Ford Fusion, the NASCAR car. But I’ve found the Bullet to be a surprisingly flexible hunter on the battlefield. It’s a fair sight faster than either the [[Phoenix]] or the [[Sunrise]], and very maneuverable. With a good driver, I feel like my Bullet is reading my mind, like it’ll do precisely what I ask it to, with a minimum of drifting. Low bulk is certainly an issue, but with a [[Medium Machine Gun]] and a [[Mini Rocket Pod]] or a [[Light Rocket]], the Bullet is a nasty little predator.

[[Buccaneer]] - The Bucky is one of the larger muscle cars, but it also has a slightly lower armor value. On the other hand, being able to fit a 5L engine, a MMG, and a gunner in makes it SPEEDY. Or you can fit in a 4L and free up 20 bulk for reloads, One-Shots, or even a secondary Gatling for your driver. I’ve seen a few people mount an [[Anti-Tank Gun]] in a Buccaneer, but that takes it out of the Muscle category and places it into a Sedan class, tactically, because there is NO WAY you can maintain speed and control while firing an ATG.

[[Flash]] - The Mini Muscle. With a 2L engine, it’s almost as fast as a 4L Phoenix, and it is so light and fast that it’s a joy to drive. The downside is, you have paper armor, not much of it, and you will have 40 bulk with a gunner. That’s enough for a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], a reload, and a Light Rocket. I wouldn’t recommend mounting anything heavier than a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] on this chassis, it’s very susceptible to recoil.

[[Pike]] - The [[Pike]] is the [[Sunrise]]’s bigger, nastier brother. If you think a Sunrise is too bouncy, walk straight past this baby. Fire 1 shot from a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] and watch this thing bounce for 4 turns. Sitting still and getting shot will leave you bouncing wildly and struggling for traction and any ability of escape. Even under MML or MG fire you may find yourself stuck for 4-5 seconds hoping it doesn't roll. All that said, it drives over the rough stuff real well (with care) and is fast. Takes some time to get used to the handling (ghost)and tends to understeer heaps into a corner (especially if you fill its huge engine bay with motor) and oversteer once it does start to turn. Once you do get used to this though and drive accordingly, shes a dream to drive and low speed maneuverability is amazing. Reasonable armour. - Bastiel

[[Flail]] - The [[Flail]] has almost sedan-like bulk available and heavy armor. Well, it's more like driving a mini SUV than a musclecar depending on how you arm it, but for a musclecar, boy does it have a lot of armor and almost as much capacity as the [[Osprey]]... and thats about it. - FireFly

The [[Flail]] also has a wide turning radius that should be accounted for. With a 3.2Lv8 and a HCR or Laser it makes a good sniper. - Tango

[[Osprey]] - It has decent handling, not the best, but there are worse. The main issue is that if you get locked into a slide, it can take some turns to get back to moving straight. The main strength lies in it's huge capacity, with a crew of 2 and a 3.2lv8, you still have room for 110 bulk worth of weapons, for example, a [[Heavy Car Rifle|HCR]]/[[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]] combo works surprisingly well, but the real fun with that is that it's the most heavily armed musclecar around, and kicks the living snot out of other muscles, if you can handle the weight... - FireFly

[[Roadrunner]] - It handles like a heavy Phoenix. It has the chassis strength of a [[Chomper]]. With the addition of a HUGE motor capacity, this car might fly if not for the downforce supplied by the extraordinarily large rear wing.

It is VERY rare to find one of these beautiful cars. You might not want to risk it ANYWHERE once you do find it.
If you do find one, you`ll be pleasantly surprised at it`s armor capacity and bulk available. - JD Basher

[[Moray]] - No middle ground really, people seem to either love them or hate them. Morays are a bit pricey for something with less armour than a [[Phoenix|Pho,]] but they will take a 5LV8 unexposed, making them a speedy travel car.
They do VERY well with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Like the [[Sunrise]], they can be a bit drifty at high speeds, do not expect radical changes in direction, and this chassis can be quite unforgiving if you oversteer, though they rarely turtle.
There is, however, definitely a learning curve to overcome when using this chassis.
Expect to spin out and lose all of your momentum if you expect too much.

At slower speeds, such as when the dogfight has gone to hell, you can get a 90 degree turn out of this car, easily, assuming you have no major recoil happening from weapons fire, and a good bit more if you like using the handbrake. You can stay inside the turning arc of most NPC vehicles with ease, chewing away at them the whole time. As with all muscle cars, recoil can be an issue with heavier weapons.
Personally, after a good bit of trial and error, I have found that an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Machine Gun|MG]] combo works very well. An [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Micromissile Launcher|MMLs]] combo is effective as well, but one must keep in mind the ammo limitations [[Micromissile Launcher|MML]] have.
As with any muscle car, DON'T STOP unless it's going to give you a BIG tactical advantage.
The [[Moray]] can be a bit more forgiving in slow speed situations than other muscle cars due to it's tight turning radius, but it's best not to get INTO that situation if you don't have to. -Rev. V

[[Corghette]] - A dead sexy little racer - the Corghette is closest in handling to a tighter [[Vampire]] with one major difference. On rough terrain, it's entirely possible to get the Corghette stuck nose-and-tail on terrain, with none of its tires in contact with the ground. If it doesn't get stuck, it's a very responsive and deadly car, with 5 more bulk than the [[Vampire]]. Like the [[Vampire]], the Corghette shines with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Properly handled with an eye for terrain, the Corgy will serve you very well.

[[Category: Guides]]

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2011-08-14T22:31:22Z

Fifth: /* Strategy and Combat Roles */

The muscle car is one of the true joys of Darkwind. Neither well armored nor well armed, its primary asset in the wilderness is its speed and maneuverability. Wilderness battles have been won against enormous odds because of one or two well-employed muscle cars.

Muscles are also indispensable for hunting Traders, because only muscle cars can chase down and corral fleeing cargo vehicles.

But muscle cars are terribly vulnerable when exchanging fire with the enemy, due to their light armor and weapon loads, and their high speed can be as much a vulnerability as an asset. The difference between a victorious muscle and a very fast coffin is forethought and planning.

This manual is broken into several sections. First I’ll go over what a muscle car is, and setting up your muscle, and I’ll go over different weapons. Then will be basic strategies and tactics, and I’ll close with the Chassis Appendix, going over the chassis one by one.

== Section 1: Setting Up ==

=== What Is (And Isn’t) A Muscle? ===

A muscle is a midsize car that can mount a big engine unexposed. The [[Windsor]] and [[Windsor II]] are not muscles. No car with an exposed engine should be considered a muscle, as they are too vulnerable to survive in a combat zone. Here’s a (partial) list of muscle chassis:

*[[Phoenix]]
*[[Sunrise]]
*[[Vampire]]
*[[Pike]]
*[[Bullet]]
*[[Buccaneer]]
*[[Roadrunner]]
*[[Moray]]
*[[Flail]]
*[[Osprey]]
*[[Stormer]]
*[[Flash]]
*[[Corghette]]

All of these, other than the Flash, can mount a 4L or larger engine unexposed. The Flash is included because of its sheer speed and ability to accept an engine disproportionately large for its size. I’ll go into each of these chassis in detail in the Chassis Appendix.

=== Setting Up ===

'''Engine'''
In general, you want at least a 4L engine or a 3.2LV8. A full-sized muscle with a 3.2L engine isn’t a muscle at all, it’s a coffin.

'''Armor'''
Max out your front, put 5 on your top and bottom, and distribute the rest evenly between your sides and rear. Class B - NEVER C. A-class armor is tempting and gives a nice speed boost, but is awfully expensive to keep repaired.

'''Fuel'''
A 2-unit tank is sufficient for most muscle operations. An extra unit or two on top of that can enable your muscle scouts to go further out and improve your odds.

'''Tyres'''
Offroad all the way. Handling is everything to a muscle. The exception to this is if you’re working in rough terrain, then you need Reinforced.

'''Crew'''
Driver and gunner. Putting in 2 gunners takes up too much valuable space. Your driver should have at least 20 skill, but 40 is really preferred. With more driving skill, you’ll accelerate faster and you’ll be more stable. Your gunner should have at least some Gunnery skill, but muscles are a good way to train gunners.

'''Weapons'''
Front, front, front. You want your weapons on the FRONT. Side mounts are possible, but not generally recommended. Rear mounts sound good on paper, but they’re actually very difficult to use in practice.

Here’s your menu of killware:

[[Machine Gun]] - The vanilla option. Don’t knock it, a pair of these on the front of a muscle can really chew through enemy armor over the long run, and they have decent range and accuracy. The downside is, you need a pair to make a decent punch, and your driver will have to man one of them. Your accuracy with that gun will be lower.

[[Gatling Gun]] - The [[Machine Gun]] on steroids. The downside is, its range is shorter and you NEED two of them to make a decent punch, so your driver better have decent Gunnery skills. Watch out for the increased recoil - sustained fire can really slow you down.

[[Micromissile Launcher]] - Like the Machine Gun and Gatling Gun, the MML is small enough to be fitted in pairs, or mixed with a MG or GG. However, I don’t recommend doing so. Having an explosive round is useful in some cases, but there isn’t enough punch to outweigh the low ammunition capacity. Some chassis can accept a MML alongside a [[Medium Machine Gun]] as a driver-controlled secondary weapon, and this is an enormously effective build at short range.

[[Medium Machine Gun]] - My favorite muscle weapon. Decent damage, manageable recoil, good ammo supply, and low bulk. You will NOT have enough room for 2 of them, but that’s not a bad thing, you’ll be able to fit several reloads or a One-Shot secondary. Putting in just one gun lets your gunner concentrate on killing properly.

[[Heavy Machine Gun]] - One of the heaviest weapons available to muscles, the HMG should be deployed with care. Its recoil is hard enough to seriously affect your handling, and its 40 bulk will generally limit you to a single reload. On the other hand, its sheer power and ammo capacity can sometimes outweigh its bulk.

[[Rocket Launcher]] - The Rocket Launcher is a sledgehammer of muscle weapons. Peeling 3 or 4 off an enemy with a single hit is very tempting, to say the least. But the 10-round clip means you’ll be reloading mid-fight, and you generally will only have room for a single reload. Having only 20 rounds of fire means you have to hit Every. Single. Time. Also, the large blast radius can make a lot of problems for you in a tight, up-close fight.

[[Heavy Gatling Gun]] - Rare and powerful, the HGG is better mounted on an SUV than a muscle. Its fierce recoil will throw you all over the place.

[[Car Rifle]] - The Sniper’s Best Friend, the Car Rifle is feared for good reason. But in the high-speed muscle fights, you will NOT have enough time to line up a proper shot, and the 15-round magazine means you’ll have less sustained fire. Use a Medium Machine Gun unless you have some very skilled Snipers.

[[Flamethrower]] - The Flamethrower is another weapon that looks better on paper than it does in combat. As long as you’re running like you’re on fire, why not set everyone else on fire too? But unless you like being quite literally on fire, avoid the Flamethrower. Its damage is not high enough to justify its short range and small clip size. Also, ANY damage to the FT will set you on fire. Avoid unless you are making a suicide/novelty car.

One-Shots - I’m using this as a catchall for the [[Mini|Mini Rocket]], [[Light|Light Rocket]], [[Medium|Medium Rocket]], and [[Heavy|Heavy Rocket]] Rockets and their respective Racks and Pods. A One-Shot mounted next to your primary weapon can give a low-armor opponent a serious case of the breaches. Given that you’ll need to use your driver to man it and you only have a single shot with them, you need to time your shots carefully to hit an enemy’s weak side from close range. But a well-placed rocket can shorten a duel by several turns. My personal favorite is a toss-up between a [[Light Rocket Rack]] (3 shots, triple the fun!) and a single [[Heavy Rocket]]. (Make a Big Bang!)
As appealing as One-Shots are, NEVER compromise your primary firepower to fit in a bigger One-Shot. Your main weapon is your cake, your One-Shot is your icing.

== Section 2: Let’s Talk Tactics ==

=== Strategy and Combat Roles ===

Muscle tactics fall into four general areas: '''Kiting, Strafing, Dueling''' and '''Chasing'''. Which one of these you perform depends a great deal on the situation of the rest of your scout, so LISTEN to your squadmates. Clear communication can make the difference between a successful scout and a disaster.

*'''Kiting''' - Kiting is distracting the AI opponents. Run fast around them, OUTSIDE of their Line of Fire, and see who peels off to chase you. You don’t need to get the whole group’s attention, and every enemy that’s chasing you is one less that’s firing on your buddies. If none of them chase you, you can start Strafing them. If you only pull one enemy, you have a good chance to Duel it into submission, but if you have more than one, keep running until the rest of your squad is done with their portion and ready to peel them off of you.

*'''Strafing''' - Strafing is, in essence, attacking a group of enemies at high speed. Get your speed up - between 60 and 80 is ideal - and pick your closest target. Take several turns to plan out your approach, and check your target’s weapon arcs carefully. A rear strike is ideal on a [[Mutant Marauder]], but not a good idea against a [[Poltergeist]]. NEVER aim straight in at your target, aim slightly to one side. Keep your speed up as you make your attack run, fire a few times, then move on to the next target. You don’t need to kill your target, just sting it. Then you can move onto the next target or break off and set up for another run.

In an all-muscle scout squad in wide-open terrain, strafing is the best tactical option. Either form a loose column on the squad leader, with every car taking turns on a single target, or every car makes staggered attack runs on different targets.

Related to strafing is '''Clipping'''. AI cars with Paint Guns can cripple an entire squad, and usually do so at the worst possible time. On the other hand, AI paint wagons - the [[Mutant Bomber]] and the [[Da Vinci]], tend to lag behind their consorts a bit - one thing that makes them very difficult to kill by the battle-line. But a muscle car or two can sometimes swoop in and take out a paint wagon, or at least distract it. Both paint wagons only use 2 crew - a driver and gunner, so if you pull a gunner off the paint gun to shoot a flank MG at you, you give your comrades a few valuable turns of respite from the pink rain. Make no mistake, clipping a paint wagon is risky, but worth it. Drop your speed to 40 as you start firing, concentrate your fire on one armor facing, and get your teeth in. If the target or another car seems to be turning for you, accelerate out of danger, rinse, and repeat until your target is dead.

*'''Dueling''' - This is the opposite of Strafing. You’re getting in, going in for the kill, doing it for the thrill. As the name suggests, you’re going for a single opponent, and you’re not giving up until they’re dead in the desert.

First, know your opponent. Know exactly what weapons it has, know his firing arcs, and figure out how to get your teeth into him without getting bitten. In almost every duel, you WILL be outgunned, use your maneuverability to stay out of his fire zones. Taking some fire is all right, but spread it out among your sides, but focus your fire on one or two of his facets. Watch your ammunition level, and leave your opponent lamed and burning.

*'''Chasing''' - During trader hunts, this is where the muscle shows its true strengths. While your heavier allies are hammering the cargo escorts into scrap, your job is simple: keep the cargo from getting away.

Communicate with other chasers, make sure all of the runners are covered and none get to 350 meters.

Runners are fairly dumb AIs, they run away from the closest player. You can use this to your advantage if you can get one muscle in front of the pack, they’ll turn back toward your heavies or scatter into rough terrain. Most runners have heavy rear guns, so don’t get too close. With enough carnage among the escorts, traders will demoralize, but to maximize salvage, it’s a good idea to start shooting at traders when the escort is mostly demoralized. This increases the runners’ stress level and brings them closer to demoralizing. You DON’T want to actually breach them unless you’re in serious danger, but stressing them can shorten the scout by several turns.

=== Turn By Turn ===

Once the bullets start flying, fighting with a muscle becomes brutally simple: stay out of your enemy’s fire zones and keep your guns on your opponent. Have a working knowledge of the basic Somerset [[NPC Vehicles|NPC designs]] and what gun is on which facing. While avoiding fire is always a must, especially avoid rocket launchers, HMGs, and MMLs - the kinetic impact can badly affect your handling. Pick a target facing and pour your fire into it.

Knowing your car is especially important for muscle drivers. For your first couple outings with a chassis you’re not familiar with, take it out with a group on relatively low-risk scouts until you’re used to the handling. Alternately, load it into DW: Tactical and take it through some paces, get used to how it handles on sand and rock and asphalt.

'''Tactical Kiting'''

This is fancy verbiage for using your buddies as bait. Keep an eye on all your buddies - enemies who are going for your wingman can be vulnerable themselves to a sustained side or rear attack. And if an enemy is on your tail, you may be able to lure it into your allies' loving embrace, if you don't mind losing some armor in the doing.

'''A Note On The Handbrake'''

Used properly and sparingly, the handbrake can be the best medicine for a tight situation. But like all remedies, it's best used in moderation.

When you're moving at high speed in a tight turn, the handbrake can sometimes enable you to turn 180 or 270 degrees in a single turn, at the cost of a fair chunk of your speed. This can be very useful at the end of an attack run, but losing that much of your speed can be lethal. Use with caution.

== Chassis Appendix ==

[[Phoenix]] - The venerable Phoenix is probably your first muscle car, as it’s the most common in [[Somerset]], and even as you move onto better muscles, Phoenixes remain the best option for training drivers, because replacements can always be found. I’ve found them generally forgiving of newbie driving mistakes. Like all muscles, they have a tendency to drift and tend to lose armor to terrain.

[[Sunrise]] - The [[Phoenix]]’s twin. The [[Sunrise]] and [[Phoenix]] are identical in the garage, with identical armor, engine, and bulk characteristics. But out in the wild, the Sunrise is quite different from its sibling. The Sunrise tends to handle differently, softer and with a pronounced drift. After turning at high speed, it’s not uncommon to drift on your original course for several turns. The Sunrise demands planning four or five turns ahead. For all its faults, the [[Sunrise]] is marginally faster than the Phoenix and tends to lose less armor to terrain.

[[Vampire]] - It’s easy to see the rental [[Desert Striker]] as representative of the Vampire, even to take it for a spin, but the rental’s Standard Tyres cripple the Striker’s beautiful possiblities. The Vampire drives like a [[Phoenix]] on steroids, but the increased responsiveness comes at the cost of 10 bulk. The [[Desert Striker]] build is almost overgunned, because with the [[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]], you don’t have room for a single reload with a gunner. Switching the HMG for an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], you make one of the best combat cars in Evan, because then you can fit in a gunner, a reload and a [[Light Rocket]]. This build is one I’ve used to solo-kill [[Poltergeist|Poltergeists]] and [[Mutant Bomber|Mutant Bombers]], and once scored three kills in a single scout. Never, ever underestimate the Vampire. The Vampire truly shines with a 3.2 v8 under the hood.
On the other hand, the Vampire seems to be a bit more fragile than the [[Phoenix]], so use it with care.

[[Bullet]] - It’s easy to dismiss the Bullet as a Redneck Racer, since it is a Ford Fusion, the NASCAR car. But I’ve found the Bullet to be a surprisingly flexible hunter on the battlefield. It’s a fair sight faster than either the [[Phoenix]] or the [[Sunrise]], and very maneuverable. With a good driver, I feel like my Bullet is reading my mind, like it’ll do precisely what I ask it to, with a minimum of drifting. Low bulk is certainly an issue, but with a [[Medium Machine Gun]] and a [[Mini Rocket Pod]] or a [[Light Rocket]], the Bullet is a nasty little predator.

[[Buccaneer]] - The Bucky is one of the larger muscle cars, but it also has a slightly lower armor value. On the other hand, being able to fit a 5L engine, a MMG, and a gunner in makes it SPEEDY. Or you can fit in a 4L and free up 20 bulk for reloads, One-Shots, or even a secondary Gatling for your driver. I’ve seen a few people mount an [[Anti-Tank Gun]] in a Buccaneer, but that takes it out of the Muscle category and places it into a Sedan class, tactically, because there is NO WAY you can maintain speed and control while firing an ATG.

[[Flash]] - The Mini Muscle. With a 2L engine, it’s almost as fast as a 4L Phoenix, and it is so light and fast that it’s a joy to drive. The downside is, you have paper armor, not much of it, and you will have 40 bulk with a gunner. That’s enough for a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], a reload, and a Light Rocket. I wouldn’t recommend mounting anything heavier than a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] on this chassis, it’s very susceptible to recoil.

[[Pike]] - The [[Pike]] is the [[Sunrise]]’s bigger, nastier brother. If you think a Sunrise is too bouncy, walk straight past this baby. Fire 1 shot from a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] and watch this thing bounce for 4 turns. Sitting still and getting shot will leave you bouncing wildly and struggling for traction and any ability of escape. Even under MML or MG fire you may find yourself stuck for 4-5 seconds hoping it doesn't roll. All that said, it drives over the rough stuff real well (with care) and is fast. Takes some time to get used to the handling (ghost)and tends to understeer heaps into a corner (especially if you fill its huge engine bay with motor) and oversteer once it does start to turn. Once you do get used to this though and drive accordingly, shes a dream to drive and low speed maneuverability is amazing. Reasonable armour. - Bastiel

[[Flail]] - The [[Flail]] has almost sedan-like bulk available and heavy armor. Well, it's more like driving a mini SUV than a musclecar depending on how you arm it, but for a musclecar, boy does it have a lot of armor and almost as much capacity as the [[Osprey]]... and thats about it. - FireFly

The [[Flail]] also has a wide turning radius that should be accounted for. With a 3.2Lv8 and a HCR or Laser it makes a good sniper. - Tango

[[Osprey]] - It has decent handling, not the best, but there are worse. The main issue is that if you get locked into a slide, it can take some turns to get back to moving straight. The main strength lies in it's huge capacity, with a crew of 2 and a 3.2lv8, you still have room for 110 bulk worth of weapons, for example, a [[Heavy Car Rifle|HCR]]/[[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]] combo works surprisingly well, but the real fun with that is that it's the most heavily armed musclecar around, and kicks the living snot out of other muscles, if you can handle the weight... - FireFly

[[Roadrunner]] - It handles like a heavy Phoenix. It has the chassis strength of a [[Chomper]]. With the addition of a HUGE motor capacity, this car might fly if not for the downforce supplied by the extraordinarily large rear wing.

It is VERY rare to find one of these beautiful cars. You might not want to risk it ANYWHERE once you do find it.
If you do find one, you`ll be pleasantly surprised at it`s armor capacity and bulk available. - JD Basher

[[Moray]] - No middle ground really, people seem to either love them or hate them. Morays are a bit pricey for something with less armour than a [[Phoenix|Pho,]] but they will take a 5LV8 unexposed, making them a speedy travel car.
They do VERY well with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Like the [[Sunrise]], they can be a bit drifty at high speeds, do not expect radical changes in direction, and this chassis can be quite unforgiving if you oversteer, though they rarely turtle.
There is, however, definitely a learning curve to overcome when using this chassis.
Expect to spin out and lose all of your momentum if you expect too much.

At slower speeds, such as when the dogfight has gone to hell, you can get a 90 degree turn out of this car, easily, assuming you have no major recoil happening from weapons fire, and a good bit more if you like using the handbrake. You can stay inside the turning arc of most NPC vehicles with ease, chewing away at them the whole time. As with all muscle cars, recoil can be an issue with heavier weapons.
Personally, after a good bit of trial and error, I have found that an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Machine Gun|MG]] combo works very well. An [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Micromissile Launcher|MMLs]] combo is effective as well, but one must keep in mind the ammo limitations [[Micromissile Launcher|MML]] have.
As with any muscle car, DON'T STOP unless it's going to give you a BIG tactical advantage.
The [[Moray]] can be a bit more forgiving in slow speed situations than other muscle cars due to it's tight turning radius, but it's best not to get INTO that situation if you don't have to. -Rev. V

[[Corghette]] - A dead sexy little racer - the Corghette is closest in handling to a tighter [[Vampire]] with one major difference. On rough terrain, it's entirely possible to get the Corghette stuck nose-and-tail on terrain, with none of its tires in contact with the ground. If it doesn't get stuck, it's a very responsive and deadly car, with 5 more bulk than the [[Vampire]]. Like the [[Vampire]], the Corghette shines with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Properly handled with an eye for terrain, the Corgy will serve you very well.

[[Category: Guides]]

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2011-08-14T22:29:41Z

Fifth: /* Setting Up */ Format edits

The muscle car is one of the true joys of Darkwind. Neither well armored nor well armed, its primary asset in the wilderness is its speed and maneuverability. Wilderness battles have been won against enormous odds because of one or two well-employed muscle cars.

Muscles are also indispensable for hunting Traders, because only muscle cars can chase down and corral fleeing cargo vehicles.

But muscle cars are terribly vulnerable when exchanging fire with the enemy, due to their light armor and weapon loads, and their high speed can be as much a vulnerability as an asset. The difference between a victorious muscle and a very fast coffin is forethought and planning.

This manual is broken into several sections. First I’ll go over what a muscle car is, and setting up your muscle, and I’ll go over different weapons. Then will be basic strategies and tactics, and I’ll close with the Chassis Appendix, going over the chassis one by one.

== Section 1: Setting Up ==

=== What Is (And Isn’t) A Muscle? ===

A muscle is a midsize car that can mount a big engine unexposed. The [[Windsor]] and [[Windsor II]] are not muscles. No car with an exposed engine should be considered a muscle, as they are too vulnerable to survive in a combat zone. Here’s a (partial) list of muscle chassis:

*[[Phoenix]]
*[[Sunrise]]
*[[Vampire]]
*[[Pike]]
*[[Bullet]]
*[[Buccaneer]]
*[[Roadrunner]]
*[[Moray]]
*[[Flail]]
*[[Osprey]]
*[[Stormer]]
*[[Flash]]
*[[Corghette]]

All of these, other than the Flash, can mount a 4L or larger engine unexposed. The Flash is included because of its sheer speed and ability to accept an engine disproportionately large for its size. I’ll go into each of these chassis in detail in the Chassis Appendix.

=== Setting Up ===

'''Engine'''
In general, you want at least a 4L engine or a 3.2LV8. A full-sized muscle with a 3.2L engine isn’t a muscle at all, it’s a coffin.

'''Armor'''
Max out your front, put 5 on your top and bottom, and distribute the rest evenly between your sides and rear. Class B - NEVER C. A-class armor is tempting and gives a nice speed boost, but is awfully expensive to keep repaired.

'''Fuel'''
A 2-unit tank is sufficient for most muscle operations. An extra unit or two on top of that can enable your muscle scouts to go further out and improve your odds.

'''Tyres'''
Offroad all the way. Handling is everything to a muscle. The exception to this is if you’re working in rough terrain, then you need Reinforced.

'''Crew'''
Driver and gunner. Putting in 2 gunners takes up too much valuable space. Your driver should have at least 20 skill, but 40 is really preferred. With more driving skill, you’ll accelerate faster and you’ll be more stable. Your gunner should have at least some Gunnery skill, but muscles are a good way to train gunners.

'''Weapons'''
Front, front, front. You want your weapons on the FRONT. Side mounts are possible, but not generally recommended. Rear mounts sound good on paper, but they’re actually very difficult to use in practice.

Here’s your menu of killware:

[[Machine Gun]] - The vanilla option. Don’t knock it, a pair of these on the front of a muscle can really chew through enemy armor over the long run, and they have decent range and accuracy. The downside is, you need a pair to make a decent punch, and your driver will have to man one of them. Your accuracy with that gun will be lower.

[[Gatling Gun]] - The [[Machine Gun]] on steroids. The downside is, its range is shorter and you NEED two of them to make a decent punch, so your driver better have decent Gunnery skills. Watch out for the increased recoil - sustained fire can really slow you down.

[[Micromissile Launcher]] - Like the Machine Gun and Gatling Gun, the MML is small enough to be fitted in pairs, or mixed with a MG or GG. However, I don’t recommend doing so. Having an explosive round is useful in some cases, but there isn’t enough punch to outweigh the low ammunition capacity. Some chassis can accept a MML alongside a [[Medium Machine Gun]] as a driver-controlled secondary weapon, and this is an enormously effective build at short range.

[[Medium Machine Gun]] - My favorite muscle weapon. Decent damage, manageable recoil, good ammo supply, and low bulk. You will NOT have enough room for 2 of them, but that’s not a bad thing, you’ll be able to fit several reloads or a One-Shot secondary. Putting in just one gun lets your gunner concentrate on killing properly.

[[Heavy Machine Gun]] - One of the heaviest weapons available to muscles, the HMG should be deployed with care. Its recoil is hard enough to seriously affect your handling, and its 40 bulk will generally limit you to a single reload. On the other hand, its sheer power and ammo capacity can sometimes outweigh its bulk.

[[Rocket Launcher]] - The Rocket Launcher is a sledgehammer of muscle weapons. Peeling 3 or 4 off an enemy with a single hit is very tempting, to say the least. But the 10-round clip means you’ll be reloading mid-fight, and you generally will only have room for a single reload. Having only 20 rounds of fire means you have to hit Every. Single. Time. Also, the large blast radius can make a lot of problems for you in a tight, up-close fight.

[[Heavy Gatling Gun]] - Rare and powerful, the HGG is better mounted on an SUV than a muscle. Its fierce recoil will throw you all over the place.

[[Car Rifle]] - The Sniper’s Best Friend, the Car Rifle is feared for good reason. But in the high-speed muscle fights, you will NOT have enough time to line up a proper shot, and the 15-round magazine means you’ll have less sustained fire. Use a Medium Machine Gun unless you have some very skilled Snipers.

[[Flamethrower]] - The Flamethrower is another weapon that looks better on paper than it does in combat. As long as you’re running like you’re on fire, why not set everyone else on fire too? But unless you like being quite literally on fire, avoid the Flamethrower. Its damage is not high enough to justify its short range and small clip size. Also, ANY damage to the FT will set you on fire. Avoid unless you are making a suicide/novelty car.

One-Shots - I’m using this as a catchall for the [[Mini|Mini Rocket]], [[Light|Light Rocket]], [[Medium|Medium Rocket]], and [[Heavy|Heavy Rocket]] Rockets and their respective Racks and Pods. A One-Shot mounted next to your primary weapon can give a low-armor opponent a serious case of the breaches. Given that you’ll need to use your driver to man it and you only have a single shot with them, you need to time your shots carefully to hit an enemy’s weak side from close range. But a well-placed rocket can shorten a duel by several turns. My personal favorite is a toss-up between a [[Light Rocket Rack]] (3 shots, triple the fun!) and a single [[Heavy Rocket]]. (Make a Big Bang!)
As appealing as One-Shots are, NEVER compromise your primary firepower to fit in a bigger One-Shot. Your main weapon is your cake, your One-Shot is your icing.

== Section 2: Let’s Talk Tactics ==

=== Strategy and Combat Roles ===

Muscle tactics fall into four general areas: '''Kiting, Strafing, Dueling''' and '''Chasing'''. Which one of these you perform depends a great deal on the situation of the rest of your scout, so LISTEN to your squadmates. Clear communication can make the difference between a successful scout and a disaster.

*'''Kiting''' - Kiting is distracting the AI opponents. Run fast around them, OUTSIDE of their Line of Fire, and see who peels off to chase you. You don’t need to get the whole group’s attention, and every enemy that’s chasing you is one less that’s firing on your buddies. If none of them chase you, you can start Strafing them. If you only pull one enemy, you have a good chance to Duel it into submission, but if you have more than one, keep running until the rest of your squad is done with their portion and ready to peel them off of you.

*'''Strafing''' - Strafing is, in essence, attacking a group of enemies at high speed. Get your speed up - between 60 and 80 is ideal - and pick your closest target. Take several turns to plan out your approach, and check your target’s weapon arcs carefully. A rear strike is ideal on a [[Mutant Marauder]], but not a good idea against a [[Poltergeist]]. NEVER aim straight in at your target, aim slightly to one side. Keep your speed up as you make your attack run, fire a few times, then move on to the next target. You don’t need to kill your target, just sting it. Then you can move onto the next target or break off and set up for another run.

In an all-muscle scout squad, strafing is the best tactical option. Either form a loose column on the squad leader, with every car taking turns on a single target, or every car makes staggered attack runs on different targets.

Related to strafing is '''Clipping'''. AI cars with Paint Guns can cripple an entire squad, and usually do so at the worst possible time. On the other hand, AI paint wagons - the [[Mutant Bomber]] and the [[Da Vinci]], tend to lag behind their consorts a bit - one thing that makes them very difficult to kill by the battle-line. But a muscle car or two can sometimes swoop in and take out a paint wagon, or at least distract it. Both paint wagons only use 2 crew - a driver and gunner, so if you pull a gunner off the paint gun to shoot a flank MG at you, you give your comrades a few valuable turns of respite from the pink rain. Make no mistake, clipping a paint wagon is risky, but worth it. Drop your speed to 40 as you start firing, concentrate your fire on one armor facing, and get your teeth in. If the target or another car seems to be turning for you, accelerate out of danger, rinse, and repeat until your target is dead.

*'''Dueling''' - This is the opposite of Strafing. You’re getting in, going in for the kill, doing it for the thrill. As the name suggests, you’re going for a single opponent, and you’re not giving up until they’re dead in the desert.

First, know your opponent. Know exactly what weapons it has, know his firing arcs, and figure out how to get your teeth into him without getting bitten. In almost every duel, you WILL be outgunned, use your maneuverability to stay out of his fire zones. Taking some fire is all right, but spread it out among your sides, but focus your fire on one or two of his facets. Watch your ammunition level, and leave your opponent lamed and burning.

*'''Chasing''' - During trader hunts, this is where the muscle shows its true strengths. While your heavier allies are hammering the cargo escorts into scrap, your job is simple: keep the cargo from getting away.

Communicate with other chasers, make sure all of the runners are covered and none get to 350 meters.

Runners are fairly dumb AIs, they run away from the closest player. You can use this to your advantage if you can get one muscle in front of the pack, they’ll turn back toward your heavies or scatter into rough terrain. Most runners have heavy rear guns, so don’t get too close. With enough carnage among the escorts, traders will demoralize, but to maximize salvage, it’s a good idea to start shooting at traders when the escort is mostly demoralized. This increases the runners’ stress level and brings them closer to demoralizing. You DON’T want to actually breach them unless you’re in serious danger, but stressing them can shorten the scout by several turns.

=== Turn By Turn ===

Once the bullets start flying, fighting with a muscle becomes brutally simple: stay out of your enemy’s fire zones and keep your guns on your opponent. Have a working knowledge of the basic Somerset [[NPC Vehicles|NPC designs]] and what gun is on which facing. While avoiding fire is always a must, especially avoid rocket launchers, HMGs, and MMLs - the kinetic impact can badly affect your handling. Pick a target facing and pour your fire into it.

Knowing your car is especially important for muscle drivers. For your first couple outings with a chassis you’re not familiar with, take it out with a group on relatively low-risk scouts until you’re used to the handling. Alternately, load it into DW: Tactical and take it through some paces, get used to how it handles on sand and rock and asphalt.

'''Tactical Kiting'''

This is fancy verbiage for using your buddies as bait. Keep an eye on all your buddies - enemies who are going for your wingman can be vulnerable themselves to a sustained side or rear attack. And if an enemy is on your tail, you may be able to lure it into your allies' loving embrace, if you don't mind losing some armor in the doing.

'''A Note On The Handbrake'''

Used properly and sparingly, the handbrake can be the best medicine for a tight situation. But like all remedies, it's best used in moderation.

When you're moving at high speed in a tight turn, the handbrake can sometimes enable you to turn 180 or 270 degrees in a single turn, at the cost of a fair chunk of your speed. This can be very useful at the end of an attack run, but losing that much of your speed can be lethal. Use with caution.

== Chassis Appendix ==

[[Phoenix]] - The venerable Phoenix is probably your first muscle car, as it’s the most common in [[Somerset]], and even as you move onto better muscles, Phoenixes remain the best option for training drivers, because replacements can always be found. I’ve found them generally forgiving of newbie driving mistakes. Like all muscles, they have a tendency to drift and tend to lose armor to terrain.

[[Sunrise]] - The [[Phoenix]]’s twin. The [[Sunrise]] and [[Phoenix]] are identical in the garage, with identical armor, engine, and bulk characteristics. But out in the wild, the Sunrise is quite different from its sibling. The Sunrise tends to handle differently, softer and with a pronounced drift. After turning at high speed, it’s not uncommon to drift on your original course for several turns. The Sunrise demands planning four or five turns ahead. For all its faults, the [[Sunrise]] is marginally faster than the Phoenix and tends to lose less armor to terrain.

[[Vampire]] - It’s easy to see the rental [[Desert Striker]] as representative of the Vampire, even to take it for a spin, but the rental’s Standard Tyres cripple the Striker’s beautiful possiblities. The Vampire drives like a [[Phoenix]] on steroids, but the increased responsiveness comes at the cost of 10 bulk. The [[Desert Striker]] build is almost overgunned, because with the [[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]], you don’t have room for a single reload with a gunner. Switching the HMG for an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], you make one of the best combat cars in Evan, because then you can fit in a gunner, a reload and a [[Light Rocket]]. This build is one I’ve used to solo-kill [[Poltergeist|Poltergeists]] and [[Mutant Bomber|Mutant Bombers]], and once scored three kills in a single scout. Never, ever underestimate the Vampire. The Vampire truly shines with a 3.2 v8 under the hood.
On the other hand, the Vampire seems to be a bit more fragile than the [[Phoenix]], so use it with care.

[[Bullet]] - It’s easy to dismiss the Bullet as a Redneck Racer, since it is a Ford Fusion, the NASCAR car. But I’ve found the Bullet to be a surprisingly flexible hunter on the battlefield. It’s a fair sight faster than either the [[Phoenix]] or the [[Sunrise]], and very maneuverable. With a good driver, I feel like my Bullet is reading my mind, like it’ll do precisely what I ask it to, with a minimum of drifting. Low bulk is certainly an issue, but with a [[Medium Machine Gun]] and a [[Mini Rocket Pod]] or a [[Light Rocket]], the Bullet is a nasty little predator.

[[Buccaneer]] - The Bucky is one of the larger muscle cars, but it also has a slightly lower armor value. On the other hand, being able to fit a 5L engine, a MMG, and a gunner in makes it SPEEDY. Or you can fit in a 4L and free up 20 bulk for reloads, One-Shots, or even a secondary Gatling for your driver. I’ve seen a few people mount an [[Anti-Tank Gun]] in a Buccaneer, but that takes it out of the Muscle category and places it into a Sedan class, tactically, because there is NO WAY you can maintain speed and control while firing an ATG.

[[Flash]] - The Mini Muscle. With a 2L engine, it’s almost as fast as a 4L Phoenix, and it is so light and fast that it’s a joy to drive. The downside is, you have paper armor, not much of it, and you will have 40 bulk with a gunner. That’s enough for a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], a reload, and a Light Rocket. I wouldn’t recommend mounting anything heavier than a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] on this chassis, it’s very susceptible to recoil.

[[Pike]] - The [[Pike]] is the [[Sunrise]]’s bigger, nastier brother. If you think a Sunrise is too bouncy, walk straight past this baby. Fire 1 shot from a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] and watch this thing bounce for 4 turns. Sitting still and getting shot will leave you bouncing wildly and struggling for traction and any ability of escape. Even under MML or MG fire you may find yourself stuck for 4-5 seconds hoping it doesn't roll. All that said, it drives over the rough stuff real well (with care) and is fast. Takes some time to get used to the handling (ghost)and tends to understeer heaps into a corner (especially if you fill its huge engine bay with motor) and oversteer once it does start to turn. Once you do get used to this though and drive accordingly, shes a dream to drive and low speed maneuverability is amazing. Reasonable armour. - Bastiel

[[Flail]] - The [[Flail]] has almost sedan-like bulk available and heavy armor. Well, it's more like driving a mini SUV than a musclecar depending on how you arm it, but for a musclecar, boy does it have a lot of armor and almost as much capacity as the [[Osprey]]... and thats about it. - FireFly

The [[Flail]] also has a wide turning radius that should be accounted for. With a 3.2Lv8 and a HCR or Laser it makes a good sniper. - Tango

[[Osprey]] - It has decent handling, not the best, but there are worse. The main issue is that if you get locked into a slide, it can take some turns to get back to moving straight. The main strength lies in it's huge capacity, with a crew of 2 and a 3.2lv8, you still have room for 110 bulk worth of weapons, for example, a [[Heavy Car Rifle|HCR]]/[[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]] combo works surprisingly well, but the real fun with that is that it's the most heavily armed musclecar around, and kicks the living snot out of other muscles, if you can handle the weight... - FireFly

[[Roadrunner]] - It handles like a heavy Phoenix. It has the chassis strength of a [[Chomper]]. With the addition of a HUGE motor capacity, this car might fly if not for the downforce supplied by the extraordinarily large rear wing.

It is VERY rare to find one of these beautiful cars. You might not want to risk it ANYWHERE once you do find it.
If you do find one, you`ll be pleasantly surprised at it`s armor capacity and bulk available. - JD Basher

[[Moray]] - No middle ground really, people seem to either love them or hate them. Morays are a bit pricey for something with less armour than a [[Phoenix|Pho,]] but they will take a 5LV8 unexposed, making them a speedy travel car.
They do VERY well with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Like the [[Sunrise]], they can be a bit drifty at high speeds, do not expect radical changes in direction, and this chassis can be quite unforgiving if you oversteer, though they rarely turtle.
There is, however, definitely a learning curve to overcome when using this chassis.
Expect to spin out and lose all of your momentum if you expect too much.

At slower speeds, such as when the dogfight has gone to hell, you can get a 90 degree turn out of this car, easily, assuming you have no major recoil happening from weapons fire, and a good bit more if you like using the handbrake. You can stay inside the turning arc of most NPC vehicles with ease, chewing away at them the whole time. As with all muscle cars, recoil can be an issue with heavier weapons.
Personally, after a good bit of trial and error, I have found that an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Machine Gun|MG]] combo works very well. An [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Micromissile Launcher|MMLs]] combo is effective as well, but one must keep in mind the ammo limitations [[Micromissile Launcher|MML]] have.
As with any muscle car, DON'T STOP unless it's going to give you a BIG tactical advantage.
The [[Moray]] can be a bit more forgiving in slow speed situations than other muscle cars due to it's tight turning radius, but it's best not to get INTO that situation if you don't have to. -Rev. V

[[Corghette]] - A dead sexy little racer - the Corghette is closest in handling to a tighter [[Vampire]] with one major difference. On rough terrain, it's entirely possible to get the Corghette stuck nose-and-tail on terrain, with none of its tires in contact with the ground. If it doesn't get stuck, it's a very responsive and deadly car, with 5 more bulk than the [[Vampire]]. Like the [[Vampire]], the Corghette shines with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Properly handled with an eye for terrain, the Corgy will serve you very well.

[[Category: Guides]]

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2011-01-15T04:47:01Z

Fifth: /* Chassis Appendix */

The muscle car is one of the true joys of Darkwind. Neither well armored nor well armed, its primary asset in the wilderness is its speed and maneuverability. Wilderness battles have been won against enormous odds because of one or two well-employed muscle cars.

Muscles are also indispensable for hunting Traders, because only muscle cars can chase down and corral fleeing cargo vehicles.

But muscle cars are terribly vulnerable when exchanging fire with the enemy, due to their light armor and weapon loads, and their high speed can be as much a vulnerability as an asset. The difference between a victorious muscle and a very fast coffin is forethought and planning.

This manual is broken into several sections. First I’ll go over what a muscle car is, and setting up your muscle, and I’ll go over different weapons. Then will be basic strategies and tactics, and I’ll close with the Chassis Appendix, going over the chassis one by one.

== Section 1: Setting Up ==

=== What Is (And Isn’t) A Muscle? ===

A muscle is a midsize car that can mount a big engine unexposed. The [[Windsor]] and [[Windsor II]] are not muscles. No car with an exposed engine should be considered a muscle, as they are too vulnerable to survive in a combat zone. Here’s a (partial) list of muscle chassis:

*[[Phoenix]]
*[[Sunrise]]
*[[Vampire]]
*[[Pike]]
*[[Bullet]]
*[[Buccaneer]]
*[[Roadrunner]]
*[[Moray]]
*[[Flail]]
*[[Osprey]]
*[[Stormer]]
*[[Flash]]
*[[Corghette]]

All of these, other than the Flash, can mount a 4L or larger engine unexposed. The Flash is included because of its sheer speed and ability to accept an engine disproportionately large for its size. I’ll go into each of these chassis in detail in the Chassis Appendix.

=== Setting Up ===

Engine
In general, you want at least a 4L engine or a 3.2LV8. A full-sized muscle with a 3.2L engine isn’t a muscle at all, it’s a coffin.

Armor
Max out your front, put 5 on your top and bottom, and distribute the rest evenly between your sides and rear. Class B - NEVER C. A-class armor is tempting and gives a nice speed boost, but is awfully expensive to keep repaired.

Fuel
A 2-unit tank is sufficient for most muscle operations. An extra unit or two on top of that can enable your muscle scouts to go further out and improve your odds.

Tyres
Offroad all the way. Handling is everything to a muscle. The exception to this is if you’re working in rough terrain, then you need Reinforced.

Crew
Driver and gunner. Putting in 2 gunners takes up too much valuable space. Your driver should have at least 20 skill, but 40 is really preferred. With more driving skill, you’ll accelerate faster and you’ll be more stable. Your gunner should have at least some Gunnery skill, but muscles are a good way to train gunners.

Weapons
Front, front, front. You want your weapons on the FRONT. Side mounts are possible, but not generally recommended. Rear mounts sound good on paper, but they’re actually very difficult to use in practice.

Here’s your menu of killware:

[[Machine Gun]] - The vanilla option. Don’t knock it, a pair of these on the front of a muscle can really chew through enemy armor over the long run, and they have decent range and accuracy. The downside is, you need a pair to make a decent punch, and your driver will have to man one of them. Your accuracy with that gun will be lower.

[[Gatling Gun]] - The [[Machine Gun]] on steroids. The downside is, its range is shorter and you NEED two of them to make a decent punch, so your driver better have decent Gunnery skills.

[[Micromissile Launcher]] - Like the Machine Gun and Gatling Gun, the MML is small enough to be fitted in pairs, or mixed with a MG or GG. However, I don’t recommend doing so. Having an explosive round is useful in some cases, but there isn’t enough punch to outweigh the low ammunition capacity. Some chassis can accept a MML alongside a [[Medium Machine Gun]] as a driver-controlled secondary weapon, and this is an enormously effective build at short range.

[[Medium Machine Gun]] - My favorite muscle weapon. Decent damage, manageable recoil, good ammo supply, and low bulk. You will NOT have enough room for 2 of them, but that’s not a bad thing, you’ll be able to fit several reloads or a One-Shot secondary. Putting in just one gun lets your gunner concentrate on killing properly.

[[Heavy Machine Gun]] - One of the heaviest weapons available to muscles, the HMG should be deployed with care. Its recoil is hard enough to seriously affect your handling, and its 40 bulk will limit you to a single reload. On the other hand, its sheer power and ammo capacity can sometimes outweigh its bulk.

[[Rocket Launcher]] - The Rocket Launcher is a sledgehammer of muscle weapons. Peeling 3 or 4 off an enemy with a single hit is very tempting, to say the least. But the 10-round clip means you’ll be reloading mid-fight, and you generally will only have room for a single reload. Having only 20 rounds of fire means you have to hit Every. Single. Time.

[[Heavy Gatling Gun]] - Rare and powerful, the HGG is better mounted on an SUV than a muscle. Its fierce recoil will throw you all over the place.

[[Car Rifle]] - The Sniper’s Best Friend, the Car Rifle is feared for good reason. But in the high-speed muscle fights, you will NOT have enough time to line up a proper shot, and the 15-round magazine means you’ll have less sustained fire. Use a Medium Machine Gun unless you have some very skilled Snipers.

[[Flamethrower]] - The Flamethrower is another weapon that looks better on paper than it does in combat. As long as you’re running like you’re on fire, why not set everyone else on fire too? But unless you like being quite literally on fire, avoid the Flamethrower. Its damage is not high enough to justify its short range and small clip size. Also, ANY damage to the FT will set you on fire. Avoid unless you are making a suicide/novelty car.

One-Shots - I’m using this as a catchall for the [[Mini|Mini Rocket]], [[Light|Light Rocket]], [[Medium|Medium Rocket]], and [[Heavy|Heavy Rocket]] Rockets and their respective Racks and Pods. A One-Shot mounted next to your primary weapon can give a low-armor opponent a serious case of the breaches. Given that you’ll need to use your driver to man it and you only have a single shot with them, you need to time your shots carefully to hit an enemy’s weak side from close range. But a well-placed rocket can shorten a duel by several turns. My personal favorite is a toss-up between a [[Light Rocket Rack]] (3 shots, triple the fun!) and a single [[Heavy Rocket]]. (Make a Big Bang!)
As appealing as One-Shots are, NEVER compromise your primary firepower to fit in a bigger One-Shot. Your main weapon is your cake, your One-Shot is your icing.

== Section 2: Let’s Talk Tactics ==

=== Strategy and Combat Roles ===

Muscle tactics fall into four general areas: '''Kiting, Strafing, Dueling''' and '''Chasing'''. Which one of these you perform depends a great deal on the situation of the rest of your scout, so LISTEN to your squadmates. Clear communication can make the difference between a successful scout and a disaster.

*'''Kiting''' - Kiting is distracting the AI opponents. Run fast around them, OUTSIDE of their Line of Fire, and see who peels off to chase you. You don’t need to get the whole group’s attention, and every enemy that’s chasing you is one less that’s firing on your buddies. If none of them chase you, you can start Strafing them. If you only pull one enemy, you have a good chance to Duel it into submission, but if you have more than one, keep running until the rest of your squad is done with their portion and ready to peel them off of you.

*'''Strafing''' - Strafing is, in essence, attacking a group of enemies at high speed. Get your speed up - between 60 and 80 is ideal - and pick your closest target. Take several turns to plan out your approach, and check your target’s weapon arcs carefully. A rear strike is ideal on a [[Mutant Marauder]], but not a good idea against a [[Poltergeist]]. NEVER aim straight in at your target, aim slightly to one side. Keep your speed up as you make your attack run, fire a few times, then move on to the next target. You don’t need to kill your target, just sting it. Then you can move onto the next target or break off and set up for another run.

In an all-muscle scout squad, strafing is the best tactical option. Either form a loose column on the squad leader, with every car taking turns on a single target, or every car makes staggered attack runs on different targets.

Related to strafing is '''Clipping'''. AI cars with Paint Guns can cripple an entire squad, and usually do so at the worst possible time. On the other hand, AI paint wagons - the [[Mutant Bomber]] and the [[Da Vinci]], tend to lag behind their consorts a bit - one thing that makes them very difficult to kill by the battle-line. But a muscle car or two can sometimes swoop in and take out a paint wagon, or at least distract it. Both paint wagons only use 2 crew - a driver and gunner, so if you pull a gunner off the paint gun to shoot a flank MG at you, you give your comrades a few valuable turns of respite from the pink rain. Make no mistake, clipping a paint wagon is risky, but worth it. Drop your speed to 40 as you start firing, concentrate your fire on one armor facing, and get your teeth in. If the target or another car seems to be turning for you, accelerate out of danger, rinse, and repeat until your target is dead.

*'''Dueling''' - This is the opposite of Strafing. You’re getting in, going in for the kill, doing it for the thrill. As the name suggests, you’re going for a single opponent, and you’re not giving up until they’re dead in the desert.

First, know your opponent. Know exactly what weapons it has, know his firing arcs, and figure out how to get your teeth into him without getting bitten. In almost every duel, you WILL be outgunned, use your maneuverability to stay out of his fire zones. Taking some fire is all right, but spread it out among your sides, but focus your fire on one or two of his facets. Watch your ammunition level, and leave your opponent lamed and burning.

*'''Chasing''' - During trader hunts, this is where the muscle shows its true strengths. While your heavier allies are hammering the cargo escorts into scrap, your job is simple: keep the cargo from getting away.

Communicate with other chasers, make sure all of the runners are covered and none get to 350 meters.

Runners are fairly dumb AIs, they run away from the closest player. You can use this to your advantage if you can get one muscle in front of the pack, they’ll turn back toward your heavies or scatter into rough terrain. Most runners have heavy rear guns, so don’t get too close. With enough carnage among the escorts, traders will demoralize, but to maximize salvage, it’s a good idea to start shooting at traders when the escort is mostly demoralized. This increases the runners’ stress level and brings them closer to demoralizing. You DON’T want to actually breach them unless you’re in serious danger, but stressing them can shorten the scout by several turns.

=== Turn By Turn ===

Once the bullets start flying, fighting with a muscle becomes brutally simple: stay out of your enemy’s fire zones and keep your guns on your opponent. Have a working knowledge of the basic Somerset [[NPC Vehicles|NPC designs]] and what gun is on which facing. While avoiding fire is always a must, especially avoid rocket launchers, HMGs, and MMLs - the kinetic impact can badly affect your handling. Pick a target facing and pour your fire into it.

Knowing your car is especially important for muscle drivers. For your first couple outings with a chassis you’re not familiar with, take it out with a group on relatively low-risk scouts until you’re used to the handling. Alternately, load it into DW: Tactical and take it through some paces, get used to how it handles on sand and rock and asphalt.

'''Tactical Kiting'''

This is fancy verbiage for using your buddies as bait. Keep an eye on all your buddies - enemies who are going for your wingman can be vulnerable themselves to a sustained side or rear attack. And if an enemy is on your tail, you may be able to lure it into your allies' loving embrace, if you don't mind losing some armor in the doing.

'''A Note On The Handbrake'''

Used properly and sparingly, the handbrake can be the best medicine for a tight situation. But like all remedies, it's best used in moderation.

When you're moving at high speed in a tight turn, the handbrake can sometimes enable you to turn 180 or 270 degrees in a single turn, at the cost of a fair chunk of your speed. This can be very useful at the end of an attack run, but losing that much of your speed can be lethal. Use with caution.

== Chassis Appendix ==

[[Phoenix]] - The venerable Phoenix is probably your first muscle car, as it’s the most common in [[Somerset]], and even as you move onto better muscles, Phoenixes remain the best option for training drivers, because replacements can always be found. I’ve found them generally forgiving of newbie driving mistakes. Like all muscles, they have a tendency to drift and tend to lose armor to terrain.

[[Sunrise]] - The [[Phoenix]]’s twin. The [[Sunrise]] and [[Phoenix]] are identical in the garage, with identical armor, engine, and bulk characteristics. But out in the wild, the Sunrise is quite different from its sibling. The Sunrise tends to handle differently, softer and with a pronounced drift. After turning at high speed, it’s not uncommon to drift on your original course for several turns. The Sunrise demands planning four or five turns ahead. For all its faults, the [[Sunrise]] is marginally faster than the Phoenix and tends to lose less armor to terrain.

[[Vampire]] - It’s easy to see the rental [[Desert Striker]] as representative of the Vampire, even to take it for a spin, but the rental’s Standard Tyres cripple the Striker’s beautiful possiblities. The Vampire drives like a [[Phoenix]] on steroids, but the increased responsiveness comes at the cost of 10 bulk. The [[Desert Striker]] build is almost overgunned, because with the [[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]], you don’t have room for a single reload with a gunner. Switching the HMG for an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], you make one of the best combat cars in Evan, because then you can fit in a gunner, a reload and a [[Light Rocket]]. This build is one I’ve used to solo-kill [[Poltergeist|Poltergeists]] and [[Mutant Bomber|Mutant Bombers]], and once scored three kills in a single scout. Never, ever underestimate the Vampire. The Vampire truly shines with a 3.2 v8 under the hood.
On the other hand, the Vampire seems to be a bit more fragile than the [[Phoenix]], so use it with care.

[[Bullet]] - It’s easy to dismiss the Bullet as a Redneck Racer, since it is a Ford Fusion, the NASCAR car. But I’ve found the Bullet to be a surprisingly flexible hunter on the battlefield. It’s a fair sight faster than either the [[Phoenix]] or the [[Sunrise]], and very maneuverable. With a good driver, I feel like my Bullet is reading my mind, like it’ll do precisely what I ask it to, with a minimum of drifting. Low bulk is certainly an issue, but with a [[Medium Machine Gun]] and a [[Mini Rocket Pod]] or a [[Light Rocket]], the Bullet is a nasty little predator.

[[Buccaneer]] - The Bucky is one of the larger muscle cars, but it also has a slightly lower armor value. On the other hand, being able to fit a 5L engine, a MMG, and a gunner in makes it SPEEDY. Or you can fit in a 4L and free up 20 bulk for reloads, One-Shots, or even a secondary Gatling for your driver. I’ve seen a few people mount an [[Anti-Tank Gun]] in a Buccaneer, but that takes it out of the Muscle category and places it into a Sedan class, tactically, because there is NO WAY you can maintain speed and control while firing an ATG.

[[Flash]] - The Mini Muscle. With a 2L engine, it’s almost as fast as a 4L Phoenix, and it is so light and fast that it’s a joy to drive. The downside is, you have paper armor, not much of it, and you will have 40 bulk with a gunner. That’s enough for a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], a reload, and a Light Rocket. I wouldn’t recommend mounting anything heavier than a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] on this chassis, it’s very susceptible to recoil.

[[Pike]] - The [[Pike]] is the [[Sunrise]]’s bigger, nastier brother. If you think a Sunrise is too bouncy, walk straight past this baby. Fire 1 shot from a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] and watch this thing bounce for 4 turns. Sitting still and getting shot will leave you bouncing wildly and struggling for traction and any ability of escape. Even under MML or MG fire you may find yourself stuck for 4-5 seconds hoping it doesn't roll. All that said, it drives over the rough stuff real well (with care) and is fast. Takes some time to get used to the handling (ghost)and tends to understeer heaps into a corner (especially if you fill its huge engine bay with motor) and oversteer once it does start to turn. Once you do get used to this though and drive accordingly, shes a dream to drive and low speed maneuverability is amazing. Reasonable armour. - Bastiel

[[Flail]] - The [[Flail]] has almost sedan-like bulk available and heavy armor. Well, it's more like driving a mini SUV than a musclecar depending on how you arm it, but for a musclecar, boy does it have a lot of armor and almost as much capacity as the [[Osprey]]... and thats about it. - FireFly

The [[Flail]] also has a wide turning radius that should be accounted for. With a 3.2Lv8 and a HCR or Laser it makes a good sniper. - Tango

[[Osprey]] - It has decent handling, not the best, but there are worse. The main issue is that if you get locked into a slide, it can take some turns to get back to moving straight. The main strength lies in it's huge capacity, with a crew of 2 and a 3.2lv8, you still have room for 110 bulk worth of weapons, for example, a [[Heavy Car Rifle|HCR]]/[[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]] combo works surprisingly well, but the real fun with that is that it's the most heavily armed musclecar around, and kicks the living snot out of other muscles, if you can handle the weight... - FireFly

[[Roadrunner]] - It handles like a heavy Phoenix. It has the chassis strength of a [[Chomper]]. With the addition of a HUGE motor capacity, this car might fly if not for the downforce supplied by the extraordinarily large rear wing.

It is VERY rare to find one of these beautiful cars. You might not want to risk it ANYWHERE once you do find it.
If you do find one, you`ll be pleasantly surprised at it`s armor capacity and bulk available. - JD Basher

[[Moray]] - No middle ground really, people seem to either love them or hate them. Morays are a bit pricey for something with less armour than a [[Phoenix|Pho,]] but they will take a 5LV8 unexposed, making them a speedy travel car.
They do VERY well with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Like the [[Sunrise]], they can be a bit drifty at high speeds, do not expect radical changes in direction, and this chassis can be quite unforgiving if you oversteer, though they rarely turtle.
There is, however, definitely a learning curve to overcome when using this chassis.
Expect to spin out and lose all of your momentum if you expect too much.

At slower speeds, such as when the dogfight has gone to hell, you can get a 90 degree turn out of this car, easily, assuming you have no major recoil happening from weapons fire, and a good bit more if you like using the handbrake. You can stay inside the turning arc of most NPC vehicles with ease, chewing away at them the whole time. As with all muscle cars, recoil can be an issue with heavier weapons.
Personally, after a good bit of trial and error, I have found that an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Machine Gun|MG]] combo works very well. An [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Micromissile Launcher|MMLs]] combo is effective as well, but one must keep in mind the ammo limitations [[Micromissile Launcher|MML]] have.
As with any muscle car, DON'T STOP unless it's going to give you a BIG tactical advantage.
The [[Moray]] can be a bit more forgiving in slow speed situations than other muscle cars due to it's tight turning radius, but it's best not to get INTO that situation if you don't have to. -Rev. V

[[Corghette]] - A dead sexy little racer - the Corghette is closest in handling to a tighter [[Vampire]] with one major difference. On rough terrain, it's entirely possible to get the Corghette stuck nose-and-tail on terrain, with none of its tires in contact with the ground. If it doesn't get stuck, it's a very responsive and deadly car, with 5 more bulk than the [[Vampire]]. Like the [[Vampire]], the Corghette shines with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Properly handled with an eye for terrain, the Corgy will serve you very well.

[[Category: Guides]]

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2011-01-15T04:44:29Z

Fifth: /* Turn By Turn */

The muscle car is one of the true joys of Darkwind. Neither well armored nor well armed, its primary asset in the wilderness is its speed and maneuverability. Wilderness battles have been won against enormous odds because of one or two well-employed muscle cars.

Muscles are also indispensable for hunting Traders, because only muscle cars can chase down and corral fleeing cargo vehicles.

But muscle cars are terribly vulnerable when exchanging fire with the enemy, due to their light armor and weapon loads, and their high speed can be as much a vulnerability as an asset. The difference between a victorious muscle and a very fast coffin is forethought and planning.

This manual is broken into several sections. First I’ll go over what a muscle car is, and setting up your muscle, and I’ll go over different weapons. Then will be basic strategies and tactics, and I’ll close with the Chassis Appendix, going over the chassis one by one.

== Section 1: Setting Up ==

=== What Is (And Isn’t) A Muscle? ===

A muscle is a midsize car that can mount a big engine unexposed. The [[Windsor]] and [[Windsor II]] are not muscles. No car with an exposed engine should be considered a muscle, as they are too vulnerable to survive in a combat zone. Here’s a (partial) list of muscle chassis:

*[[Phoenix]]
*[[Sunrise]]
*[[Vampire]]
*[[Pike]]
*[[Bullet]]
*[[Buccaneer]]
*[[Roadrunner]]
*[[Moray]]
*[[Flail]]
*[[Osprey]]
*[[Stormer]]
*[[Flash]]
*[[Corghette]]

All of these, other than the Flash, can mount a 4L or larger engine unexposed. The Flash is included because of its sheer speed and ability to accept an engine disproportionately large for its size. I’ll go into each of these chassis in detail in the Chassis Appendix.

=== Setting Up ===

Engine
In general, you want at least a 4L engine or a 3.2LV8. A full-sized muscle with a 3.2L engine isn’t a muscle at all, it’s a coffin.

Armor
Max out your front, put 5 on your top and bottom, and distribute the rest evenly between your sides and rear. Class B - NEVER C. A-class armor is tempting and gives a nice speed boost, but is awfully expensive to keep repaired.

Fuel
A 2-unit tank is sufficient for most muscle operations. An extra unit or two on top of that can enable your muscle scouts to go further out and improve your odds.

Tyres
Offroad all the way. Handling is everything to a muscle. The exception to this is if you’re working in rough terrain, then you need Reinforced.

Crew
Driver and gunner. Putting in 2 gunners takes up too much valuable space. Your driver should have at least 20 skill, but 40 is really preferred. With more driving skill, you’ll accelerate faster and you’ll be more stable. Your gunner should have at least some Gunnery skill, but muscles are a good way to train gunners.

Weapons
Front, front, front. You want your weapons on the FRONT. Side mounts are possible, but not generally recommended. Rear mounts sound good on paper, but they’re actually very difficult to use in practice.

Here’s your menu of killware:

[[Machine Gun]] - The vanilla option. Don’t knock it, a pair of these on the front of a muscle can really chew through enemy armor over the long run, and they have decent range and accuracy. The downside is, you need a pair to make a decent punch, and your driver will have to man one of them. Your accuracy with that gun will be lower.

[[Gatling Gun]] - The [[Machine Gun]] on steroids. The downside is, its range is shorter and you NEED two of them to make a decent punch, so your driver better have decent Gunnery skills.

[[Micromissile Launcher]] - Like the Machine Gun and Gatling Gun, the MML is small enough to be fitted in pairs, or mixed with a MG or GG. However, I don’t recommend doing so. Having an explosive round is useful in some cases, but there isn’t enough punch to outweigh the low ammunition capacity. Some chassis can accept a MML alongside a [[Medium Machine Gun]] as a driver-controlled secondary weapon, and this is an enormously effective build at short range.

[[Medium Machine Gun]] - My favorite muscle weapon. Decent damage, manageable recoil, good ammo supply, and low bulk. You will NOT have enough room for 2 of them, but that’s not a bad thing, you’ll be able to fit several reloads or a One-Shot secondary. Putting in just one gun lets your gunner concentrate on killing properly.

[[Heavy Machine Gun]] - One of the heaviest weapons available to muscles, the HMG should be deployed with care. Its recoil is hard enough to seriously affect your handling, and its 40 bulk will limit you to a single reload. On the other hand, its sheer power and ammo capacity can sometimes outweigh its bulk.

[[Rocket Launcher]] - The Rocket Launcher is a sledgehammer of muscle weapons. Peeling 3 or 4 off an enemy with a single hit is very tempting, to say the least. But the 10-round clip means you’ll be reloading mid-fight, and you generally will only have room for a single reload. Having only 20 rounds of fire means you have to hit Every. Single. Time.

[[Heavy Gatling Gun]] - Rare and powerful, the HGG is better mounted on an SUV than a muscle. Its fierce recoil will throw you all over the place.

[[Car Rifle]] - The Sniper’s Best Friend, the Car Rifle is feared for good reason. But in the high-speed muscle fights, you will NOT have enough time to line up a proper shot, and the 15-round magazine means you’ll have less sustained fire. Use a Medium Machine Gun unless you have some very skilled Snipers.

[[Flamethrower]] - The Flamethrower is another weapon that looks better on paper than it does in combat. As long as you’re running like you’re on fire, why not set everyone else on fire too? But unless you like being quite literally on fire, avoid the Flamethrower. Its damage is not high enough to justify its short range and small clip size. Also, ANY damage to the FT will set you on fire. Avoid unless you are making a suicide/novelty car.

One-Shots - I’m using this as a catchall for the [[Mini|Mini Rocket]], [[Light|Light Rocket]], [[Medium|Medium Rocket]], and [[Heavy|Heavy Rocket]] Rockets and their respective Racks and Pods. A One-Shot mounted next to your primary weapon can give a low-armor opponent a serious case of the breaches. Given that you’ll need to use your driver to man it and you only have a single shot with them, you need to time your shots carefully to hit an enemy’s weak side from close range. But a well-placed rocket can shorten a duel by several turns. My personal favorite is a toss-up between a [[Light Rocket Rack]] (3 shots, triple the fun!) and a single [[Heavy Rocket]]. (Make a Big Bang!)
As appealing as One-Shots are, NEVER compromise your primary firepower to fit in a bigger One-Shot. Your main weapon is your cake, your One-Shot is your icing.

== Section 2: Let’s Talk Tactics ==

=== Strategy and Combat Roles ===

Muscle tactics fall into four general areas: '''Kiting, Strafing, Dueling''' and '''Chasing'''. Which one of these you perform depends a great deal on the situation of the rest of your scout, so LISTEN to your squadmates. Clear communication can make the difference between a successful scout and a disaster.

*'''Kiting''' - Kiting is distracting the AI opponents. Run fast around them, OUTSIDE of their Line of Fire, and see who peels off to chase you. You don’t need to get the whole group’s attention, and every enemy that’s chasing you is one less that’s firing on your buddies. If none of them chase you, you can start Strafing them. If you only pull one enemy, you have a good chance to Duel it into submission, but if you have more than one, keep running until the rest of your squad is done with their portion and ready to peel them off of you.

*'''Strafing''' - Strafing is, in essence, attacking a group of enemies at high speed. Get your speed up - between 60 and 80 is ideal - and pick your closest target. Take several turns to plan out your approach, and check your target’s weapon arcs carefully. A rear strike is ideal on a [[Mutant Marauder]], but not a good idea against a [[Poltergeist]]. NEVER aim straight in at your target, aim slightly to one side. Keep your speed up as you make your attack run, fire a few times, then move on to the next target. You don’t need to kill your target, just sting it. Then you can move onto the next target or break off and set up for another run.

In an all-muscle scout squad, strafing is the best tactical option. Either form a loose column on the squad leader, with every car taking turns on a single target, or every car makes staggered attack runs on different targets.

Related to strafing is '''Clipping'''. AI cars with Paint Guns can cripple an entire squad, and usually do so at the worst possible time. On the other hand, AI paint wagons - the [[Mutant Bomber]] and the [[Da Vinci]], tend to lag behind their consorts a bit - one thing that makes them very difficult to kill by the battle-line. But a muscle car or two can sometimes swoop in and take out a paint wagon, or at least distract it. Both paint wagons only use 2 crew - a driver and gunner, so if you pull a gunner off the paint gun to shoot a flank MG at you, you give your comrades a few valuable turns of respite from the pink rain. Make no mistake, clipping a paint wagon is risky, but worth it. Drop your speed to 40 as you start firing, concentrate your fire on one armor facing, and get your teeth in. If the target or another car seems to be turning for you, accelerate out of danger, rinse, and repeat until your target is dead.

*'''Dueling''' - This is the opposite of Strafing. You’re getting in, going in for the kill, doing it for the thrill. As the name suggests, you’re going for a single opponent, and you’re not giving up until they’re dead in the desert.

First, know your opponent. Know exactly what weapons it has, know his firing arcs, and figure out how to get your teeth into him without getting bitten. In almost every duel, you WILL be outgunned, use your maneuverability to stay out of his fire zones. Taking some fire is all right, but spread it out among your sides, but focus your fire on one or two of his facets. Watch your ammunition level, and leave your opponent lamed and burning.

*'''Chasing''' - During trader hunts, this is where the muscle shows its true strengths. While your heavier allies are hammering the cargo escorts into scrap, your job is simple: keep the cargo from getting away.

Communicate with other chasers, make sure all of the runners are covered and none get to 350 meters.

Runners are fairly dumb AIs, they run away from the closest player. You can use this to your advantage if you can get one muscle in front of the pack, they’ll turn back toward your heavies or scatter into rough terrain. Most runners have heavy rear guns, so don’t get too close. With enough carnage among the escorts, traders will demoralize, but to maximize salvage, it’s a good idea to start shooting at traders when the escort is mostly demoralized. This increases the runners’ stress level and brings them closer to demoralizing. You DON’T want to actually breach them unless you’re in serious danger, but stressing them can shorten the scout by several turns.

=== Turn By Turn ===

Once the bullets start flying, fighting with a muscle becomes brutally simple: stay out of your enemy’s fire zones and keep your guns on your opponent. Have a working knowledge of the basic Somerset [[NPC Vehicles|NPC designs]] and what gun is on which facing. While avoiding fire is always a must, especially avoid rocket launchers, HMGs, and MMLs - the kinetic impact can badly affect your handling. Pick a target facing and pour your fire into it.

Knowing your car is especially important for muscle drivers. For your first couple outings with a chassis you’re not familiar with, take it out with a group on relatively low-risk scouts until you’re used to the handling. Alternately, load it into DW: Tactical and take it through some paces, get used to how it handles on sand and rock and asphalt.

'''Tactical Kiting'''

This is fancy verbiage for using your buddies as bait. Keep an eye on all your buddies - enemies who are going for your wingman can be vulnerable themselves to a sustained side or rear attack. And if an enemy is on your tail, you may be able to lure it into your allies' loving embrace, if you don't mind losing some armor in the doing.

'''A Note On The Handbrake'''

Used properly and sparingly, the handbrake can be the best medicine for a tight situation. But like all remedies, it's best used in moderation.

When you're moving at high speed in a tight turn, the handbrake can sometimes enable you to turn 180 or 270 degrees in a single turn, at the cost of a fair chunk of your speed. This can be very useful at the end of an attack run, but losing that much of your speed can be lethal. Use with caution.

== Chassis Appendix ==

[[Phoenix]] - The venerable Phoenix is probably your first muscle car, as it’s the most common in [[Somerset]], and even as you move onto better muscles, Phoenixes remain the best option for training drivers, because replacements can always be found. I’ve found them generally forgiving of newbie driving mistakes. Like all muscles, they have a tendency to drift and tend to lose armor to terrain.

[[Sunrise]] - The [[Phoenix]]’s twin. The [[Sunrise]] and [[Phoenix]] are identical in the garage, with identical armor, engine, and bulk characteristics. But out in the wild, the Sunrise is quite different from its sibling. The Sunrise tends to handle differently, softer and with a pronounced drift. After turning at high speed, it’s not uncommon to drift on your original course for several turns. The Sunrise demands planning four or five turns ahead. For all its faults, the [[Sunrise]] is marginally faster than the Phoenix and tends to lose less armor to terrain.

[[Vampire]] - It’s easy to see the rental [[Desert Striker]] as representative of the Vampire, even to take it for a spin, but the rental’s Standard Tyres cripple the Striker’s beautiful possiblities. The Vampire drives like a [[Phoenix]] on steroids, but the increased responsiveness comes at the cost of 10 bulk. The [[Desert Striker]] build is almost overgunned, because with the [[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]], you don’t have room for a single reload with a gunner. Switching the HMG for an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], you make one of the best combat cars in Evan, because then you can fit in a gunner, a reload and a [[Light Rocket]]. This build is one I’ve used to solo-kill [[Poltergeist|Poltergeists]] and [[Mutant Bomber|Mutant Bombers]], and once scored three kills in a single scout. Never, ever underestimate the Vampire. The Vampire truly shines with a 3.2 v8 under the hood.
On the other hand, the Vampire seems to be a bit more fragile than the [[Phoenix]], so use it with care.

[[Bullet]] - It’s easy to dismiss the Bullet as a Redneck Racer, since it is a Ford Fusion, the NASCAR car. But I’ve found the Bullet to be a surprisingly flexible hunter on the battlefield. It’s a fair sight faster than either the [[Phoenix]] or the [[Sunrise]], and very maneuverable. With a good driver, I feel like my Bullet is reading my mind, like it’ll do precisely what I ask it to, with a minimum of drifting. Low bulk is certainly an issue, but with a [[Medium Machine Gun]] and a [[Mini Rocket Pod]] or a [[Light Rocket]], the Bullet is a nasty little predator.

[[Buccaneer]] - The Bucky is one of the larger muscle cars, but it also has a slightly lower armor value. On the other hand, being able to fit a 5L engine, a MMG, and a gunner in makes it SPEEDY. Or you can fit in a 4L and free up 20 bulk for reloads, One-Shots, or even a secondary Gatling for your driver. I’ve seen a few people mount an [[Anti-Tank Gun]] in a Buccaneer, but that takes it out of the Muscle category and places it into a Sedan class, tactically, because there is NO WAY you can maintain speed and control while firing an ATG.

[[Flash]] - The Mini Muscle. With a 2L engine, it’s almost as fast as a 4L Phoenix, and it is so light and fast that it’s a joy to drive. The downside is, you have paper armor, not much of it, and you will have 40 bulk with a gunner. That’s enough for a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], a reload, and a Light Rocket. I wouldn’t recommend mounting anything heavier than a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] on this chassis, it’s very susceptible to recoil.

[[Pike]] - The [[Pike]] is the [[Sunrise]]’s bigger, nastier brother. If you think a Sunrise is too bouncy, walk straight past this baby. Fire 1 shot from a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] and watch this thing bounce for 4 turns. Sitting still and getting shot will leave you bouncing wildly and struggling for traction and any ability of escape. Even under MML or MG fire you may find yourself stuck for 4-5 seconds hoping it doesn't roll. All that said, it drives over the rough stuff real well (with care) and is fast. Takes some time to get used to the handling (ghost)and tends to understeer heaps into a corner (especially if you fill its huge engine bay with motor) and oversteer once it does start to turn. Once you do get used to this though and drive accordingly, shes a dream to drive and low speed maneuverability is amazing. Reasonable armour. - Bastiel

[[Flail]] - The [[Flail]] has almost sedan-like bulk available and heavy armor. Well, it's more like driving a mini SUV than a musclecar depending on how you arm it, but for a musclecar, boy does it have a lot of armor and almost as much capacity as the [[Osprey]]... and thats about it. - FireFly

The [[Flail]] also has a wide turning radius that should be accounted for. With a 3.2Lv8 and a HCR or Laser it makes a good sniper. - Tango

[[Osprey]] - It has decent handling, not the best, but there are worse. The main issue is that if you get locked into a slide, it can take some turns to get back to moving straight. The main strength lies in it's huge capacity, with a crew of 2 and a 3.2lv8, you still have room for 110 bulk worth of weapons, for example, a [[Heavy Car Rifle|HCR]]/[[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]] combo works surprisingly well, but the real fun with that is that it's the most heavily armed musclecar around, and kicks the living snot out of other muscles, if you can handle the weight... - FireFly

[[Roadrunner]] - It handles like a heavy Phoenix. It has the chassis strength of a [[Chomper]]. With the addition of a HUGE motor capacity, this car might fly if not for the downforce supplied by the extraordinarily large rear wing.

It is VERY rare to find one of these beautiful cars. You might not want to risk it ANYWHERE once you do find it.
If you do find one, you`ll be pleasantly surprised at it`s armor capacity and bulk available. - JD Basher

[[Moray]] - No middle ground really, people seem to either love them or hate them. Morays are a bit pricey for something with less armour than a [[Phoenix|Pho,]] but they will take a 5LV8 unexposed, making them a speedy travel car.
They do VERY well with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Like the [[Sunrise]], they can be a bit drifty at high speeds, do not expect radical changes in direction, and this chassis can be quite unforgiving if you oversteer, though they rarely turtle.
There is, however, definitely a learning curve to overcome when using this chassis.
Expect to spin out and lose all of your momentum if you expect too much.

At slower speeds, such as when the dogfight has gone to hell, you can get a 90 degree turn out of this car, easily, assuming you have no major recoil happening from weapons fire, and a good bit more if you like using the handbrake. You can stay inside the turning arc of most NPC vehicles with ease, chewing away at them the whole time. As with all muscle cars, recoil can be an issue with heavier weapons.
Personally, after a good bit of trial and error, I have found that an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Machine Gun|MG]] combo works very well. An [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Micromissile Launcher|MMLs]] combo is effective as well, but one must keep in mind the ammo limitations [[Micromissile Launcher|MML]] have.
As with any muscle car, DON'T STOP unless it's going to give you a BIG tactical advantage.
The [[Moray]] can be a bit more forgiving in slow speed situations than other muscle cars due to it's tight turning radius, but it's best not to get INTO that situation if you don't have to. -Rev. V

[[Corghette]] - a dead sexy little racer - the Corghette is closest in handling to a tighter [[Vampire]] with one major difference. On rough terrain, it's entirely possible to get the Corghette stuck nose-and-tail on terrain, with none of its tires in contact with the ground. If it doesn't get stuck, it's a very responsive and deadly car, with 5 more bulk than the [[Vampire]]. Like the [[Vampire]], the Corghette shines with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Properly handled with an eye for terrain, the Corgy will serve you very well.

[[Category: Guides]]

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2011-01-15T04:44:13Z

Fifth: /* Turn By Turn */ -added Tactical Kiting section

The muscle car is one of the true joys of Darkwind. Neither well armored nor well armed, its primary asset in the wilderness is its speed and maneuverability. Wilderness battles have been won against enormous odds because of one or two well-employed muscle cars.

Muscles are also indispensable for hunting Traders, because only muscle cars can chase down and corral fleeing cargo vehicles.

But muscle cars are terribly vulnerable when exchanging fire with the enemy, due to their light armor and weapon loads, and their high speed can be as much a vulnerability as an asset. The difference between a victorious muscle and a very fast coffin is forethought and planning.

This manual is broken into several sections. First I’ll go over what a muscle car is, and setting up your muscle, and I’ll go over different weapons. Then will be basic strategies and tactics, and I’ll close with the Chassis Appendix, going over the chassis one by one.

== Section 1: Setting Up ==

=== What Is (And Isn’t) A Muscle? ===

A muscle is a midsize car that can mount a big engine unexposed. The [[Windsor]] and [[Windsor II]] are not muscles. No car with an exposed engine should be considered a muscle, as they are too vulnerable to survive in a combat zone. Here’s a (partial) list of muscle chassis:

*[[Phoenix]]
*[[Sunrise]]
*[[Vampire]]
*[[Pike]]
*[[Bullet]]
*[[Buccaneer]]
*[[Roadrunner]]
*[[Moray]]
*[[Flail]]
*[[Osprey]]
*[[Stormer]]
*[[Flash]]
*[[Corghette]]

All of these, other than the Flash, can mount a 4L or larger engine unexposed. The Flash is included because of its sheer speed and ability to accept an engine disproportionately large for its size. I’ll go into each of these chassis in detail in the Chassis Appendix.

=== Setting Up ===

Engine
In general, you want at least a 4L engine or a 3.2LV8. A full-sized muscle with a 3.2L engine isn’t a muscle at all, it’s a coffin.

Armor
Max out your front, put 5 on your top and bottom, and distribute the rest evenly between your sides and rear. Class B - NEVER C. A-class armor is tempting and gives a nice speed boost, but is awfully expensive to keep repaired.

Fuel
A 2-unit tank is sufficient for most muscle operations. An extra unit or two on top of that can enable your muscle scouts to go further out and improve your odds.

Tyres
Offroad all the way. Handling is everything to a muscle. The exception to this is if you’re working in rough terrain, then you need Reinforced.

Crew
Driver and gunner. Putting in 2 gunners takes up too much valuable space. Your driver should have at least 20 skill, but 40 is really preferred. With more driving skill, you’ll accelerate faster and you’ll be more stable. Your gunner should have at least some Gunnery skill, but muscles are a good way to train gunners.

Weapons
Front, front, front. You want your weapons on the FRONT. Side mounts are possible, but not generally recommended. Rear mounts sound good on paper, but they’re actually very difficult to use in practice.

Here’s your menu of killware:

[[Machine Gun]] - The vanilla option. Don’t knock it, a pair of these on the front of a muscle can really chew through enemy armor over the long run, and they have decent range and accuracy. The downside is, you need a pair to make a decent punch, and your driver will have to man one of them. Your accuracy with that gun will be lower.

[[Gatling Gun]] - The [[Machine Gun]] on steroids. The downside is, its range is shorter and you NEED two of them to make a decent punch, so your driver better have decent Gunnery skills.

[[Micromissile Launcher]] - Like the Machine Gun and Gatling Gun, the MML is small enough to be fitted in pairs, or mixed with a MG or GG. However, I don’t recommend doing so. Having an explosive round is useful in some cases, but there isn’t enough punch to outweigh the low ammunition capacity. Some chassis can accept a MML alongside a [[Medium Machine Gun]] as a driver-controlled secondary weapon, and this is an enormously effective build at short range.

[[Medium Machine Gun]] - My favorite muscle weapon. Decent damage, manageable recoil, good ammo supply, and low bulk. You will NOT have enough room for 2 of them, but that’s not a bad thing, you’ll be able to fit several reloads or a One-Shot secondary. Putting in just one gun lets your gunner concentrate on killing properly.

[[Heavy Machine Gun]] - One of the heaviest weapons available to muscles, the HMG should be deployed with care. Its recoil is hard enough to seriously affect your handling, and its 40 bulk will limit you to a single reload. On the other hand, its sheer power and ammo capacity can sometimes outweigh its bulk.

[[Rocket Launcher]] - The Rocket Launcher is a sledgehammer of muscle weapons. Peeling 3 or 4 off an enemy with a single hit is very tempting, to say the least. But the 10-round clip means you’ll be reloading mid-fight, and you generally will only have room for a single reload. Having only 20 rounds of fire means you have to hit Every. Single. Time.

[[Heavy Gatling Gun]] - Rare and powerful, the HGG is better mounted on an SUV than a muscle. Its fierce recoil will throw you all over the place.

[[Car Rifle]] - The Sniper’s Best Friend, the Car Rifle is feared for good reason. But in the high-speed muscle fights, you will NOT have enough time to line up a proper shot, and the 15-round magazine means you’ll have less sustained fire. Use a Medium Machine Gun unless you have some very skilled Snipers.

[[Flamethrower]] - The Flamethrower is another weapon that looks better on paper than it does in combat. As long as you’re running like you’re on fire, why not set everyone else on fire too? But unless you like being quite literally on fire, avoid the Flamethrower. Its damage is not high enough to justify its short range and small clip size. Also, ANY damage to the FT will set you on fire. Avoid unless you are making a suicide/novelty car.

One-Shots - I’m using this as a catchall for the [[Mini|Mini Rocket]], [[Light|Light Rocket]], [[Medium|Medium Rocket]], and [[Heavy|Heavy Rocket]] Rockets and their respective Racks and Pods. A One-Shot mounted next to your primary weapon can give a low-armor opponent a serious case of the breaches. Given that you’ll need to use your driver to man it and you only have a single shot with them, you need to time your shots carefully to hit an enemy’s weak side from close range. But a well-placed rocket can shorten a duel by several turns. My personal favorite is a toss-up between a [[Light Rocket Rack]] (3 shots, triple the fun!) and a single [[Heavy Rocket]]. (Make a Big Bang!)
As appealing as One-Shots are, NEVER compromise your primary firepower to fit in a bigger One-Shot. Your main weapon is your cake, your One-Shot is your icing.

== Section 2: Let’s Talk Tactics ==

=== Strategy and Combat Roles ===

Muscle tactics fall into four general areas: '''Kiting, Strafing, Dueling''' and '''Chasing'''. Which one of these you perform depends a great deal on the situation of the rest of your scout, so LISTEN to your squadmates. Clear communication can make the difference between a successful scout and a disaster.

*'''Kiting''' - Kiting is distracting the AI opponents. Run fast around them, OUTSIDE of their Line of Fire, and see who peels off to chase you. You don’t need to get the whole group’s attention, and every enemy that’s chasing you is one less that’s firing on your buddies. If none of them chase you, you can start Strafing them. If you only pull one enemy, you have a good chance to Duel it into submission, but if you have more than one, keep running until the rest of your squad is done with their portion and ready to peel them off of you.

*'''Strafing''' - Strafing is, in essence, attacking a group of enemies at high speed. Get your speed up - between 60 and 80 is ideal - and pick your closest target. Take several turns to plan out your approach, and check your target’s weapon arcs carefully. A rear strike is ideal on a [[Mutant Marauder]], but not a good idea against a [[Poltergeist]]. NEVER aim straight in at your target, aim slightly to one side. Keep your speed up as you make your attack run, fire a few times, then move on to the next target. You don’t need to kill your target, just sting it. Then you can move onto the next target or break off and set up for another run.

In an all-muscle scout squad, strafing is the best tactical option. Either form a loose column on the squad leader, with every car taking turns on a single target, or every car makes staggered attack runs on different targets.

Related to strafing is '''Clipping'''. AI cars with Paint Guns can cripple an entire squad, and usually do so at the worst possible time. On the other hand, AI paint wagons - the [[Mutant Bomber]] and the [[Da Vinci]], tend to lag behind their consorts a bit - one thing that makes them very difficult to kill by the battle-line. But a muscle car or two can sometimes swoop in and take out a paint wagon, or at least distract it. Both paint wagons only use 2 crew - a driver and gunner, so if you pull a gunner off the paint gun to shoot a flank MG at you, you give your comrades a few valuable turns of respite from the pink rain. Make no mistake, clipping a paint wagon is risky, but worth it. Drop your speed to 40 as you start firing, concentrate your fire on one armor facing, and get your teeth in. If the target or another car seems to be turning for you, accelerate out of danger, rinse, and repeat until your target is dead.

*'''Dueling''' - This is the opposite of Strafing. You’re getting in, going in for the kill, doing it for the thrill. As the name suggests, you’re going for a single opponent, and you’re not giving up until they’re dead in the desert.

First, know your opponent. Know exactly what weapons it has, know his firing arcs, and figure out how to get your teeth into him without getting bitten. In almost every duel, you WILL be outgunned, use your maneuverability to stay out of his fire zones. Taking some fire is all right, but spread it out among your sides, but focus your fire on one or two of his facets. Watch your ammunition level, and leave your opponent lamed and burning.

*'''Chasing''' - During trader hunts, this is where the muscle shows its true strengths. While your heavier allies are hammering the cargo escorts into scrap, your job is simple: keep the cargo from getting away.

Communicate with other chasers, make sure all of the runners are covered and none get to 350 meters.

Runners are fairly dumb AIs, they run away from the closest player. You can use this to your advantage if you can get one muscle in front of the pack, they’ll turn back toward your heavies or scatter into rough terrain. Most runners have heavy rear guns, so don’t get too close. With enough carnage among the escorts, traders will demoralize, but to maximize salvage, it’s a good idea to start shooting at traders when the escort is mostly demoralized. This increases the runners’ stress level and brings them closer to demoralizing. You DON’T want to actually breach them unless you’re in serious danger, but stressing them can shorten the scout by several turns.

=== Turn By Turn ===

Once the bullets start flying, fighting with a muscle becomes brutally simple: stay out of your enemy’s fire zones and keep your guns on your opponent. Have a working knowledge of the basic Somerset [[NPC Vehicles|NPC designs]] and what gun is on which facing. While avoiding fire is always a must, especially avoid rocket launchers, HMGs, and MMLs - the kinetic impact can badly affect your handling. Pick a target facing and pour your fire into it.

Knowing your car is especially important for muscle drivers. For your first couple outings with a chassis you’re not familiar with, take it out with a group on relatively low-risk scouts until you’re used to the handling. Alternately, load it into DW: Tactical and take it through some paces, get used to how it handles on sand and rock and asphalt.

'''Tactical Kiting'''
This is fancy verbiage for using your buddies as bait. Keep an eye on all your buddies - enemies who are going for your wingman can be vulnerable themselves to a sustained side or rear attack. And if an enemy is on your tail, you may be able to lure it into your allies' loving embrace, if you don't mind losing some armor in the doing.

'''A Note On The Handbrake'''

Used properly and sparingly, the handbrake can be the best medicine for a tight situation. But like all remedies, it's best used in moderation.

When you're moving at high speed in a tight turn, the handbrake can sometimes enable you to turn 180 or 270 degrees in a single turn, at the cost of a fair chunk of your speed. This can be very useful at the end of an attack run, but losing that much of your speed can be lethal. Use with caution.

== Chassis Appendix ==

[[Phoenix]] - The venerable Phoenix is probably your first muscle car, as it’s the most common in [[Somerset]], and even as you move onto better muscles, Phoenixes remain the best option for training drivers, because replacements can always be found. I’ve found them generally forgiving of newbie driving mistakes. Like all muscles, they have a tendency to drift and tend to lose armor to terrain.

[[Sunrise]] - The [[Phoenix]]’s twin. The [[Sunrise]] and [[Phoenix]] are identical in the garage, with identical armor, engine, and bulk characteristics. But out in the wild, the Sunrise is quite different from its sibling. The Sunrise tends to handle differently, softer and with a pronounced drift. After turning at high speed, it’s not uncommon to drift on your original course for several turns. The Sunrise demands planning four or five turns ahead. For all its faults, the [[Sunrise]] is marginally faster than the Phoenix and tends to lose less armor to terrain.

[[Vampire]] - It’s easy to see the rental [[Desert Striker]] as representative of the Vampire, even to take it for a spin, but the rental’s Standard Tyres cripple the Striker’s beautiful possiblities. The Vampire drives like a [[Phoenix]] on steroids, but the increased responsiveness comes at the cost of 10 bulk. The [[Desert Striker]] build is almost overgunned, because with the [[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]], you don’t have room for a single reload with a gunner. Switching the HMG for an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], you make one of the best combat cars in Evan, because then you can fit in a gunner, a reload and a [[Light Rocket]]. This build is one I’ve used to solo-kill [[Poltergeist|Poltergeists]] and [[Mutant Bomber|Mutant Bombers]], and once scored three kills in a single scout. Never, ever underestimate the Vampire. The Vampire truly shines with a 3.2 v8 under the hood.
On the other hand, the Vampire seems to be a bit more fragile than the [[Phoenix]], so use it with care.

[[Bullet]] - It’s easy to dismiss the Bullet as a Redneck Racer, since it is a Ford Fusion, the NASCAR car. But I’ve found the Bullet to be a surprisingly flexible hunter on the battlefield. It’s a fair sight faster than either the [[Phoenix]] or the [[Sunrise]], and very maneuverable. With a good driver, I feel like my Bullet is reading my mind, like it’ll do precisely what I ask it to, with a minimum of drifting. Low bulk is certainly an issue, but with a [[Medium Machine Gun]] and a [[Mini Rocket Pod]] or a [[Light Rocket]], the Bullet is a nasty little predator.

[[Buccaneer]] - The Bucky is one of the larger muscle cars, but it also has a slightly lower armor value. On the other hand, being able to fit a 5L engine, a MMG, and a gunner in makes it SPEEDY. Or you can fit in a 4L and free up 20 bulk for reloads, One-Shots, or even a secondary Gatling for your driver. I’ve seen a few people mount an [[Anti-Tank Gun]] in a Buccaneer, but that takes it out of the Muscle category and places it into a Sedan class, tactically, because there is NO WAY you can maintain speed and control while firing an ATG.

[[Flash]] - The Mini Muscle. With a 2L engine, it’s almost as fast as a 4L Phoenix, and it is so light and fast that it’s a joy to drive. The downside is, you have paper armor, not much of it, and you will have 40 bulk with a gunner. That’s enough for a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], a reload, and a Light Rocket. I wouldn’t recommend mounting anything heavier than a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] on this chassis, it’s very susceptible to recoil.

[[Pike]] - The [[Pike]] is the [[Sunrise]]’s bigger, nastier brother. If you think a Sunrise is too bouncy, walk straight past this baby. Fire 1 shot from a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] and watch this thing bounce for 4 turns. Sitting still and getting shot will leave you bouncing wildly and struggling for traction and any ability of escape. Even under MML or MG fire you may find yourself stuck for 4-5 seconds hoping it doesn't roll. All that said, it drives over the rough stuff real well (with care) and is fast. Takes some time to get used to the handling (ghost)and tends to understeer heaps into a corner (especially if you fill its huge engine bay with motor) and oversteer once it does start to turn. Once you do get used to this though and drive accordingly, shes a dream to drive and low speed maneuverability is amazing. Reasonable armour. - Bastiel

[[Flail]] - The [[Flail]] has almost sedan-like bulk available and heavy armor. Well, it's more like driving a mini SUV than a musclecar depending on how you arm it, but for a musclecar, boy does it have a lot of armor and almost as much capacity as the [[Osprey]]... and thats about it. - FireFly

The [[Flail]] also has a wide turning radius that should be accounted for. With a 3.2Lv8 and a HCR or Laser it makes a good sniper. - Tango

[[Osprey]] - It has decent handling, not the best, but there are worse. The main issue is that if you get locked into a slide, it can take some turns to get back to moving straight. The main strength lies in it's huge capacity, with a crew of 2 and a 3.2lv8, you still have room for 110 bulk worth of weapons, for example, a [[Heavy Car Rifle|HCR]]/[[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]] combo works surprisingly well, but the real fun with that is that it's the most heavily armed musclecar around, and kicks the living snot out of other muscles, if you can handle the weight... - FireFly

[[Roadrunner]] - It handles like a heavy Phoenix. It has the chassis strength of a [[Chomper]]. With the addition of a HUGE motor capacity, this car might fly if not for the downforce supplied by the extraordinarily large rear wing.

It is VERY rare to find one of these beautiful cars. You might not want to risk it ANYWHERE once you do find it.
If you do find one, you`ll be pleasantly surprised at it`s armor capacity and bulk available. - JD Basher

[[Moray]] - No middle ground really, people seem to either love them or hate them. Morays are a bit pricey for something with less armour than a [[Phoenix|Pho,]] but they will take a 5LV8 unexposed, making them a speedy travel car.
They do VERY well with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Like the [[Sunrise]], they can be a bit drifty at high speeds, do not expect radical changes in direction, and this chassis can be quite unforgiving if you oversteer, though they rarely turtle.
There is, however, definitely a learning curve to overcome when using this chassis.
Expect to spin out and lose all of your momentum if you expect too much.

At slower speeds, such as when the dogfight has gone to hell, you can get a 90 degree turn out of this car, easily, assuming you have no major recoil happening from weapons fire, and a good bit more if you like using the handbrake. You can stay inside the turning arc of most NPC vehicles with ease, chewing away at them the whole time. As with all muscle cars, recoil can be an issue with heavier weapons.
Personally, after a good bit of trial and error, I have found that an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Machine Gun|MG]] combo works very well. An [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Micromissile Launcher|MMLs]] combo is effective as well, but one must keep in mind the ammo limitations [[Micromissile Launcher|MML]] have.
As with any muscle car, DON'T STOP unless it's going to give you a BIG tactical advantage.
The [[Moray]] can be a bit more forgiving in slow speed situations than other muscle cars due to it's tight turning radius, but it's best not to get INTO that situation if you don't have to. -Rev. V

[[Corghette]] - a dead sexy little racer - the Corghette is closest in handling to a tighter [[Vampire]] with one major difference. On rough terrain, it's entirely possible to get the Corghette stuck nose-and-tail on terrain, with none of its tires in contact with the ground. If it doesn't get stuck, it's a very responsive and deadly car, with 5 more bulk than the [[Vampire]]. Like the [[Vampire]], the Corghette shines with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Properly handled with an eye for terrain, the Corgy will serve you very well.

[[Category: Guides]]

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2010-12-28T17:08:13Z

Fifth: /* Chassis Appendix */ Added Corghette

The muscle car is one of the true joys of Darkwind. Neither well armored nor well armed, its primary asset in the wilderness is its speed and maneuverability. Wilderness battles have been won against enormous odds because of one or two well-employed muscle cars.

Muscles are also indispensable for hunting Traders, because only muscle cars can chase down and corral fleeing cargo vehicles.

But muscle cars are terribly vulnerable when exchanging fire with the enemy, due to their light armor and weapon loads, and their high speed can be as much a vulnerability as an asset. The difference between a victorious muscle and a very fast coffin is forethought and planning.

This manual is broken into several sections. First I’ll go over what a muscle car is, and setting up your muscle, and I’ll go over different weapons. Then will be basic strategies and tactics, and I’ll close with the Chassis Appendix, going over the chassis one by one.

== Section 1: Setting Up ==

=== What Is (And Isn’t) A Muscle? ===

A muscle is a midsize car that can mount a big engine unexposed. The [[Windsor]] and [[Windsor II]] are not muscles. No car with an exposed engine should be considered a muscle, as they are too vulnerable to survive in a combat zone. Here’s a (partial) list of muscle chassis:

*[[Phoenix]]
*[[Sunrise]]
*[[Vampire]]
*[[Pike]]
*[[Bullet]]
*[[Buccaneer]]
*[[Roadrunner]]
*[[Moray]]
*[[Flail]]
*[[Osprey]]
*[[Stormer]]
*[[Flash]]
*[[Corghette]]

All of these, other than the Flash, can mount a 4L or larger engine unexposed. The Flash is included because of its sheer speed and ability to accept an engine disproportionately large for its size. I’ll go into each of these chassis in detail in the Chassis Appendix.

=== Setting Up ===

Engine
In general, you want at least a 4L engine or a 3.2LV8. A full-sized muscle with a 3.2L engine isn’t a muscle at all, it’s a coffin.

Armor
Max out your front, put 5 on your top and bottom, and distribute the rest evenly between your sides and rear. Class B - NEVER C. A-class armor is tempting and gives a nice speed boost, but is awfully expensive to keep repaired.

Fuel
A 2-unit tank is sufficient for most muscle operations. An extra unit or two on top of that can enable your muscle scouts to go further out and improve your odds.

Tyres
Offroad all the way. Handling is everything to a muscle. The exception to this is if you’re working in rough terrain, then you need Reinforced.

Crew
Driver and gunner. Putting in 2 gunners takes up too much valuable space. Your driver should have at least 20 skill, but 40 is really preferred. With more driving skill, you’ll accelerate faster and you’ll be more stable. Your gunner should have at least some Gunnery skill, but muscles are a good way to train gunners.

Weapons
Front, front, front. You want your weapons on the FRONT. Side mounts are possible, but not generally recommended. Rear mounts sound good on paper, but they’re actually very difficult to use in practice.

Here’s your menu of killware:

[[Machine Gun]] - The vanilla option. Don’t knock it, a pair of these on the front of a muscle can really chew through enemy armor over the long run, and they have decent range and accuracy. The downside is, you need a pair to make a decent punch, and your driver will have to man one of them. Your accuracy with that gun will be lower.

[[Gatling Gun]] - The [[Machine Gun]] on steroids. The downside is, its range is shorter and you NEED two of them to make a decent punch, so your driver better have decent Gunnery skills.

[[Micromissile Launcher]] - Like the Machine Gun and Gatling Gun, the MML is small enough to be fitted in pairs, or mixed with a MG or GG. However, I don’t recommend doing so. Having an explosive round is useful in some cases, but there isn’t enough punch to outweigh the low ammunition capacity. Some chassis can accept a MML alongside a [[Medium Machine Gun]] as a driver-controlled secondary weapon, and this is an enormously effective build at short range.

[[Medium Machine Gun]] - My favorite muscle weapon. Decent damage, manageable recoil, good ammo supply, and low bulk. You will NOT have enough room for 2 of them, but that’s not a bad thing, you’ll be able to fit several reloads or a One-Shot secondary. Putting in just one gun lets your gunner concentrate on killing properly.

[[Heavy Machine Gun]] - One of the heaviest weapons available to muscles, the HMG should be deployed with care. Its recoil is hard enough to seriously affect your handling, and its 40 bulk will limit you to a single reload. On the other hand, its sheer power and ammo capacity can sometimes outweigh its bulk.

[[Rocket Launcher]] - The Rocket Launcher is a sledgehammer of muscle weapons. Peeling 3 or 4 off an enemy with a single hit is very tempting, to say the least. But the 10-round clip means you’ll be reloading mid-fight, and you generally will only have room for a single reload. Having only 20 rounds of fire means you have to hit Every. Single. Time.

[[Heavy Gatling Gun]] - Rare and powerful, the HGG is better mounted on an SUV than a muscle. Its fierce recoil will throw you all over the place.

[[Car Rifle]] - The Sniper’s Best Friend, the Car Rifle is feared for good reason. But in the high-speed muscle fights, you will NOT have enough time to line up a proper shot, and the 15-round magazine means you’ll have less sustained fire. Use a Medium Machine Gun unless you have some very skilled Snipers.

[[Flamethrower]] - The Flamethrower is another weapon that looks better on paper than it does in combat. As long as you’re running like you’re on fire, why not set everyone else on fire too? But unless you like being quite literally on fire, avoid the Flamethrower. Its damage is not high enough to justify its short range and small clip size. Also, ANY damage to the FT will set you on fire. Avoid unless you are making a suicide/novelty car.

One-Shots - I’m using this as a catchall for the [[Mini|Mini Rocket]], [[Light|Light Rocket]], [[Medium|Medium Rocket]], and [[Heavy|Heavy Rocket]] Rockets and their respective Racks and Pods. A One-Shot mounted next to your primary weapon can give a low-armor opponent a serious case of the breaches. Given that you’ll need to use your driver to man it and you only have a single shot with them, you need to time your shots carefully to hit an enemy’s weak side from close range. But a well-placed rocket can shorten a duel by several turns. My personal favorite is a toss-up between a [[Light Rocket Rack]] (3 shots, triple the fun!) and a single [[Heavy Rocket]]. (Make a Big Bang!)
As appealing as One-Shots are, NEVER compromise your primary firepower to fit in a bigger One-Shot. Your main weapon is your cake, your One-Shot is your icing.

== Section 2: Let’s Talk Tactics ==

=== Strategy and Combat Roles ===

Muscle tactics fall into four general areas: '''Kiting, Strafing, Dueling''' and '''Chasing'''. Which one of these you perform depends a great deal on the situation of the rest of your scout, so LISTEN to your squadmates. Clear communication can make the difference between a successful scout and a disaster.

*'''Kiting''' - Kiting is distracting the AI opponents. Run fast around them, OUTSIDE of their Line of Fire, and see who peels off to chase you. You don’t need to get the whole group’s attention, and every enemy that’s chasing you is one less that’s firing on your buddies. If none of them chase you, you can start Strafing them. If you only pull one enemy, you have a good chance to Duel it into submission, but if you have more than one, keep running until the rest of your squad is done with their portion and ready to peel them off of you.

*'''Strafing''' - Strafing is, in essence, attacking a group of enemies at high speed. Get your speed up - between 60 and 80 is ideal - and pick your closest target. Take several turns to plan out your approach, and check your target’s weapon arcs carefully. A rear strike is ideal on a [[Mutant Marauder]], but not a good idea against a [[Poltergeist]]. NEVER aim straight in at your target, aim slightly to one side. Keep your speed up as you make your attack run, fire a few times, then move on to the next target. You don’t need to kill your target, just sting it. Then you can move onto the next target or break off and set up for another run.

In an all-muscle scout squad, strafing is the best tactical option. Either form a loose column on the squad leader, with every car taking turns on a single target, or every car makes staggered attack runs on different targets.

Related to strafing is '''Clipping'''. AI cars with Paint Guns can cripple an entire squad, and usually do so at the worst possible time. On the other hand, AI paint wagons - the [[Mutant Bomber]] and the [[Da Vinci]], tend to lag behind their consorts a bit - one thing that makes them very difficult to kill by the battle-line. But a muscle car or two can sometimes swoop in and take out a paint wagon, or at least distract it. Both paint wagons only use 2 crew - a driver and gunner, so if you pull a gunner off the paint gun to shoot a flank MG at you, you give your comrades a few valuable turns of respite from the pink rain. Make no mistake, clipping a paint wagon is risky, but worth it. Drop your speed to 40 as you start firing, concentrate your fire on one armor facing, and get your teeth in. If the target or another car seems to be turning for you, accelerate out of danger, rinse, and repeat until your target is dead.

*'''Dueling''' - This is the opposite of Strafing. You’re getting in, going in for the kill, doing it for the thrill. As the name suggests, you’re going for a single opponent, and you’re not giving up until they’re dead in the desert.

First, know your opponent. Know exactly what weapons it has, know his firing arcs, and figure out how to get your teeth into him without getting bitten. In almost every duel, you WILL be outgunned, use your maneuverability to stay out of his fire zones. Taking some fire is all right, but spread it out among your sides, but focus your fire on one or two of his facets. Watch your ammunition level, and leave your opponent lamed and burning.

*'''Chasing''' - During trader hunts, this is where the muscle shows its true strengths. While your heavier allies are hammering the cargo escorts into scrap, your job is simple: keep the cargo from getting away.

Communicate with other chasers, make sure all of the runners are covered and none get to 350 meters.

Runners are fairly dumb AIs, they run away from the closest player. You can use this to your advantage if you can get one muscle in front of the pack, they’ll turn back toward your heavies or scatter into rough terrain. Most runners have heavy rear guns, so don’t get too close. With enough carnage among the escorts, traders will demoralize, but to maximize salvage, it’s a good idea to start shooting at traders when the escort is mostly demoralized. This increases the runners’ stress level and brings them closer to demoralizing. You DON’T want to actually breach them unless you’re in serious danger, but stressing them can shorten the scout by several turns.

=== Turn By Turn ===

Once the bullets start flying, fighting with a muscle becomes brutally simple: stay out of your enemy’s fire zones and keep your guns on your opponent. Have a working knowledge of the basic Somerset [[NPC Vehicles|NPC designs]] and what gun is on which facing. While avoiding fire is always a must, especially avoid rocket launchers, HMGs, and MMLs - the kinetic impact can badly affect your handling. Pick a target facing and pour your fire into it.

Knowing your car is especially important for muscle drivers. For your first couple outings with a chassis you’re not familiar with, take it out with a group on relatively low-risk scouts until you’re used to the handling. Alternately, load it into DW: Tactical and take it through some paces, get used to how it handles on sand and rock and asphalt.

'''A Note On The Handbrake'''

Used properly and sparingly, the handbrake can be the best medicine for a tight situation. But like all remedies, it's best used in moderation.

When you're moving at high speed in a tight turn, the handbrake can sometimes enable you to turn 180 or 270 degrees in a single turn, at the cost of a fair chunk of your speed. This can be very useful at the end of ant attack run, but losing that much of your speed can be lethal. Use with caution.

== Chassis Appendix ==

[[Phoenix]] - The venerable Phoenix is probably your first muscle car, as it’s the most common in [[Somerset]], and even as you move onto better muscles, Phoenixes remain the best option for training drivers, because replacements can always be found. I’ve found them generally forgiving of newbie driving mistakes. Like all muscles, they have a tendency to drift and tend to lose armor to terrain.

[[Sunrise]] - The [[Phoenix]]’s twin. The [[Sunrise]] and [[Phoenix]] are identical in the garage, with identical armor, engine, and bulk characteristics. But out in the wild, the Sunrise is quite different from its sibling. The Sunrise tends to handle differently, softer and with a pronounced drift. After turning at high speed, it’s not uncommon to drift on your original course for several turns. The Sunrise demands planning four or five turns ahead. For all its faults, the [[Sunrise]] is marginally faster than the Phoenix and tends to lose less armor to terrain.

[[Vampire]] - It’s easy to see the rental [[Desert Striker]] as representative of the Vampire, even to take it for a spin, but the rental’s Standard Tyres cripple the Striker’s beautiful possiblities. The Vampire drives like a [[Phoenix]] on steroids, but the increased responsiveness comes at the cost of 10 bulk. The [[Desert Striker]] build is almost overgunned, because with the [[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]], you don’t have room for a single reload with a gunner. Switching the HMG for an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], you make one of the best combat cars in Evan, because then you can fit in a gunner, a reload and a [[Light Rocket]]. This build is one I’ve used to solo-kill [[Poltergeist|Poltergeists]] and [[Mutant Bomber|Mutant Bombers]], and once scored three kills in a single scout. Never, ever underestimate the Vampire. The Vampire truly shines with a 3.2 v8 under the hood.
On the other hand, the Vampire seems to be a bit more fragile than the [[Phoenix]], so use it with care.

[[Bullet]] - It’s easy to dismiss the Bullet as a Redneck Racer, since it is a Ford Fusion, the NASCAR car. But I’ve found the Bullet to be a surprisingly flexible hunter on the battlefield. It’s a fair sight faster than either the [[Phoenix]] or the [[Sunrise]], and very maneuverable. With a good driver, I feel like my Bullet is reading my mind, like it’ll do precisely what I ask it to, with a minimum of drifting. Low bulk is certainly an issue, but with a [[Medium Machine Gun]] and a [[Mini Rocket Pod]] or a [[Light Rocket]], the Bullet is a nasty little predator.

[[Buccaneer]] - The Bucky is one of the larger muscle cars, but it also has a slightly lower armor value. On the other hand, being able to fit a 5L engine, a MMG, and a gunner in makes it SPEEDY. Or you can fit in a 4L and free up 20 bulk for reloads, One-Shots, or even a secondary Gatling for your driver. I’ve seen a few people mount an [[Anti-Tank Gun]] in a Buccaneer, but that takes it out of the Muscle category and places it into a Sedan class, tactically, because there is NO WAY you can maintain speed and control while firing an ATG.

[[Flash]] - The Mini Muscle. With a 2L engine, it’s almost as fast as a 4L Phoenix, and it is so light and fast that it’s a joy to drive. The downside is, you have paper armor, not much of it, and you will have 40 bulk with a gunner. That’s enough for a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], a reload, and a Light Rocket. I wouldn’t recommend mounting anything heavier than a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] on this chassis, it’s very susceptible to recoil.

[[Pike]] - The [[Pike]] is the [[Sunrise]]’s bigger, nastier brother. If you think a Sunrise is too bouncy, walk straight past this baby. Fire 1 shot from a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] and watch this thing bounce for 4 turns. Sitting still and getting shot will leave you bouncing wildly and struggling for traction and any ability of escape. Even under MML or MG fire you may find yourself stuck for 4-5 seconds hoping it doesn't roll. All that said, it drives over the rough stuff real well (with care) and is fast. Takes some time to get used to the handling (ghost)and tends to understeer heaps into a corner (especially if you fill its huge engine bay with motor) and oversteer once it does start to turn. Once you do get used to this though and drive accordingly, shes a dream to drive and low speed maneuverability is amazing. Reasonable armour. - Bastiel

[[Flail]] - The [[Flail]] has almost sedan-like bulk available and heavy armor. Well, it's more like driving a mini SUV than a musclecar depending on how you arm it, but for a musclecar, boy does it have a lot of armor and almost as much capacity as the [[Osprey]]... and thats about it. - FireFly

The [[Flail]] also has a wide turning radius that should be accounted for. With a 3.2Lv8 and a HCR or Laser it makes a good sniper. - Tango

[[Osprey]] - It has decent handling, not the best, but there are worse. The main issue is that if you get locked into a slide, it can take some turns to get back to moving straight. The main strength lies in it's huge capacity, with a crew of 2 and a 3.2lv8, you still have room for 110 bulk worth of weapons, for example, a [[Heavy Car Rifle|HCR]]/[[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]] combo works surprisingly well, but the real fun with that is that it's the most heavily armed musclecar around, and kicks the living snot out of other muscles, if you can handle the weight... - FireFly

[[Roadrunner]] - It handles like a heavy Phoenix. It has the chassis strength of a [[Chomper]]. With the addition of a HUGE motor capacity, this car might fly if not for the downforce supplied by the extraordinarily large rear wing.

It is VERY rare to find one of these beautiful cars. You might not want to risk it ANYWHERE once you do find it.
If you do find one, you`ll be pleasantly surprised at it`s armor capacity and bulk available. - JD Basher

[[Moray]] - No middle ground really, people seem to either love them or hate them. Morays are a bit pricey for something with less armour than a [[Phoenix|Pho,]] but they will take a 5LV8 unexposed, making them a speedy travel car.
They do VERY well with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Like the [[Sunrise]], they can be a bit drifty at high speeds, do not expect radical changes in direction, and this chassis can be quite unforgiving if you oversteer, though they rarely turtle.
There is, however, definitely a learning curve to overcome when using this chassis.
Expect to spin out and lose all of your momentum if you expect too much.

At slower speeds, such as when the dogfight has gone to hell, you can get a 90 degree turn out of this car, easily, assuming you have no major recoil happening from weapons fire, and a good bit more if you like using the handbrake. You can stay inside the turning arc of most NPC vehicles with ease, chewing away at them the whole time. As with all muscle cars, recoil can be an issue with heavier weapons.
Personally, after a good bit of trial and error, I have found that an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Machine Gun|MG]] combo works very well. An [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Micromissile Launcher|MMLs]] combo is effective as well, but one must keep in mind the ammo limitations [[Micromissile Launcher|MML]] have.
As with any muscle car, DON'T STOP unless it's going to give you a BIG tactical advantage.
The [[Moray]] can be a bit more forgiving in slow speed situations than other muscle cars due to it's tight turning radius, but it's best not to get INTO that situation if you don't have to. -Rev. V

[[Corghette]] - a dead sexy little racer - the Corghette is closest in handling to a tighter [[Vampire]] with one major difference. On rough terrain, it's entirely possible to get the Corghette stuck nose-and-tail on terrain, with none of its tires in contact with the ground. If it doesn't get stuck, it's a very responsive and deadly car, with 5 more bulk than the [[Vampire]]. Like the [[Vampire]], the Corghette shines with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Properly handled with an eye for terrain, the Corgy will serve you very well.

[[Category: Guides]]

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2010-12-28T16:53:37Z

Fifth: /* Setting Up */ edited side mounts, added MML notes

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2010-12-28T16:49:09Z

Fifth: /* What Is (And Isn’t) A Muscle? */ Added Corghette

Mini Rocket Pod

2010-12-08T23:02:50Z

Fifth: created page.

Five [[Mini Rockets]] in a single weapon mount for 5 bulk.

The Mini Rocket isn't much for damaging armor, but it can be absolutely lethal when applied to a breached car, inflicting critical hits on weapons, engines and characters. It's most accurate at very close range.

It's not much of a main weapon, but can be invaluable as a secondary weapon on a dogfighting car when you don't have room for anything else.

Bullet

2010-12-08T22:53:26Z

Fifth: adding section on scouting use.

This chassis is one of the only '''TRUE''' racing models available in Darkwind.

It lives up to its name! This car is FAST! Its suspension is stiffer than other cars and is set up mainly for really smooth tracks with few if any bumps. On tracks with lots of bumps, you'll spend more time in the air than on the track, which causes problems when you want to turn and your car doesn't!

With an oversized (exposed) engine, you can be extremely competitive! Its chassis strength is higher than most race cars and it shows when you start rubbing and bumping other competitors racing with you. It can take some serious hits and keep your driver safe.

With a 4L engine and B Armor, the Bullet becomes a wilderness interceptor to rival the Vampire. It's tempting to add A armor to a Bullet interceptor to improve its speed, but doing so makes it almost TOO light, and the slightest bump will send it into the air. But once you get used to the Bullet's temperamental handling, it can become a lethal dogfighter with an experienced driver behind the wheel. A good build is a MMG and a [[Mini Rocket Pod]] for inflicting critical hits on breached cars.

[[Category: Chassis]]

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2010-12-07T22:07:40Z

Fifth: /* Turn By Turn */

Sedan Analysis

2010-11-13T00:31:49Z

Fifth: /* The Sedan Vs. The Sedan */

This Sedan guide examines the pros and cons of each vehicle. This guide will not presume to tell you which car is "best" because there is no best car. It comes down to what you want, and what you like. This guide comes from primarily a combat view, though speed will be discussed in relation to combat.

Because any guide like this is based on personal experience and opinion, there may be things you disagree with.

While this guide won't go into depth on the subject of how sedans compare to various cars, it will throw out some general pros/cons of sedans vs. other cars. In addition, it does not speak to special case sedans like the Squad Car. That one belongs in an "emergency response vehicle" guide due to its special nature and insane rarity.

The following cars will be included in this guide:

* Chevalier
* Mercenary
* Moose
* Spirit
* Symphony
* Voyager
* Windsor
* Windsor II

== The Sedan Summary ==

This list will include more detailed information about the chassis. Most of these stats will be ripped from the official website. In addition, it will mention other relevant stats such as handling. Keep in mind that other than the hard numbers, most of these values are subjective, and for that purpose it does not contain a list of what "Good" or what "Very Good" means. It really is just opinion.

General Sedan Details:
# Sedans always seat 4 people, bulk permitting.
# All sedans have two front weapon mounts, two rear weapon mounts, and one mount on each side.
# Speed differences do depend on the engine put in, the equipment weight, and the armor added. The listed speed is estimated compared to other sedans/vehicles. It generally assumes a healthy amount of B-Grade armor, two weapons or so, and max non-exposed engine.
# Sedans always have a "moderate" cost. Some are more expensive than others, but the difference is never really worth noting. Generally the bigger sedans are more expensive. As a special side note, the Windsors aren't that expensive, but people will sometimes try to charge a huge amount for them simply because they aren't around. It is advised you use a Mercenary instead if you like the Windsor's setup.
# In general, sedans aren't very rare. You can find most of them in Somerset, and almost all of them in Gateway or beyond. The only exception is the Windsor, which is extremely rare.

=== The Chevalier ===

[[File:chevalier.jpg]]
{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
|Weight:
|1450
|-
|Bulk:
|175
|-
|Engine/Exposed:
|2L / 3.2L
|-
|Acceleration:
|Above Average
|-
|Max Speed:
|Very Good
|-
|Handling:
|Very Good
|-
|Durability:
|Strong
|-
|Armor Side/Max:
|21/84
|}

Don't be fooled by the misleading community contribution tag while looking up this chassis. The Chevalier is an agile sedan, arguably the sedan with the best handling along with the Spirit. Its low bulk means it can't carry very many weapons, not that you'd want to weigh it down when its main asset is its maneuverability. Basically if you like subcompacts, and like sedans, you'll like the Chevalier. It also makes a surprisingly good ballistic platform.

Seen as - [[Sir Rocket]], [[Lancer]], and [[Squire]]

Sample Builds:

Brawler - Twin [[Medium Machine Gun|MMGs]] front, max out front armor.
Ballistic - Paint Gun rear, Gatling Gun forward, max out rear armor, and pack in as much Paint ammo as possible.

=== The Mercenary ===

[[File:mercenary.jpg]]
{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
|Weight:
|1650
|-
|Bulk:
|200
|-
|Engine/Exposed:
|3.2L / 3.2L V8
|-
|Acceleration:
|Average
|-
|Max Speed:
|Good
|-
|Handling:
|Below Average
|-
|Durability:
|Strong
|-
|Armor Side/Max:
|23/92
|}

The Mercenary is a tough sedan. While it has as much bulk as the Spirit, the Mercenary requires a heavier engine to move its weight to match speeds, and therefore can't be considered the roomiest sedan. It does allow an extra point of armor point though, and its ability to fit heavier engines and the 200 bulk still give it plenty of room. This is best considered an "assault sedan", and a good choice if you want to load heavier weapons, and pack on extra armor.

=== The Moose ===

[[File:moose.jpg]]
{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
|Weight:
|1500
|-
|Bulk:
|195
|-
|Engine/Exposed:
|2.5L / 3.2L V8
|-
|Acceleration:
|Good
|-
|Max Speed:
|Very Good
|-
|Handling:
|Above Average
|-
|Durability:
|Strong
|-
|Armor Side/Max:
|22/88
|}

The Moose is an excellent, balanced sedan for combat operations, and is often recommended. It can carry 1 more point of armor than the Symphony, but requires a heavier engine to really get the listed stats. This means less bulk than a Symphony. To keep it speedy, keep the weapon bulk to around 40 or 60 if you don't mind sacrificing a passenger slot.

=== The Spirit ===

[[File:spirit.jpg]]
{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
|Weight:
|1450
|-
|Bulk:
|200
|-
|Engine/Exposed:
|2L / 3.2L
|-
|Acceleration:
|Below Average
|-
|Max Speed:
|Good
|-
|Handling:
|Very Good
|-
|Durability:
|Strong
|-
|Armor Side/Max:
|21/84
|}

The Spirit is the workhorse of the sedans. If you want a sedan bristling with weapons, take the Spirit. It has a large bulk, low weight, and the engine needed to move it is rather small. However, the Spirit's acceleration is rather poor. Thankfully, that is mitigated by its ability to turn on a dime. Be careful though, since the Spirit can't hold as much armor as the Mercenary or Windsor/Windsor II.

The Spirit's bulk can be employed to fit a driver, two gunners, two 40 bulk weapons, and reloads. This makes it a very cheap weapons platform. C-armor will make it even cheaper, and doesn't add all that much weight.

It is important to note that the Spirit does NOT handle well on terrain at all. It is very stable and rarely flips over, but has great difficulty climbing any more than a shallow slope. This you can use to your advantage when fighting AI Spirits.

Seen As: [[Poltergeist]] [[Razorback]]

=== The Symphony ===

[[File:symphony.jpg]]
{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
|Weight:
|1500
|-
|Bulk:
|180
|-
|Engine/Exposed:
|2L / 3.2L
|-
|Acceleration:
|Poor
|-
|Max Speed:
|Average
|-
|Handling:
|Good
|-
|Durability:
|Strong
|-
|Armor Side/Max:
|21/84
|}

A pretty average, balanced car for the average car class, and common enough you can find it anywhere. That doesn't mean it doesn't have its place. The 2L engine can have some trouble hauling its bulk around if you load it down with weapons, but keep it lean and mean, and you can have a good weapon in hand. Famous examples of this car include the Evan Enforcer, a dual front car rifle model that is an excellent sniper. The main disadvantage of this car is its tendancy to flip, like most of the older car models.

=== The Voyager ===

[[File:voyager.jpg]]
{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
|Weight:
|1450
|-
|Bulk:
|180
|-
|Engine/Exposed:
|3.2L V8 / 4L
|-
|Acceleration:
|Very Good
|-
|Max Speed:
|Very Good
|-
|Handling:
|Good
|-
|Durability:
|Strong
|-
|Armor Side/Max:
|20/80
|}

The Voyager is the fastest of the sedans by a notable margin. It can match even some of the muscle cars if kitted out for racing, and the handling is also good. The main disadvantage of the Voyager is its lower armor value. In addition, though it has more bulk than the Chevalier, you won't get much use of it if you plan on putting the 3.2L engine in. With the 2L engine, its speed becomes more comparable to a Symphony or Moose. However, if you want a speedy, interceptor vehicle with more defense and weapon capabilities than a race car or muscle car, consider this fine sedan.

=== The Windsor ===

[[File:windsor.jpg]]
{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
|Weight:
|1700
|-
|Bulk:
|190
|-
|Engine/Exposed:
|3.2L V8 / 4L
|-
|Acceleration:
|Average
|-
|Max Speed:
|Good
|-
|Handling:
|Below Average
|-
|Durability:
|Very Strong
|-
|Armor Side/Max:
|25/100
|}

The Windsor's armor and durability are its greatest assets. However, that means you need a bigger engine to move it. With only 190 bulk, if you throw in a heavy engine, you'll be giving up a lot of passenger and/or weapon room. Given the current rarity of this chassis, despite the fact it is listed as common, you won't see it enough to worry about incorporating it into your army on a regular basis. Use the Mercenary if you need a more available tank-sedan.

=== The Windsor II ===

[[File:windsor II.jpg]]
{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
|Weight:
|1600
|-
|Bulk:
|190
|-
|Engine/Exposed:
|3.2L V8 / 4L
|-
|Acceleration:
|Average
|-
|Max Speed:
|Good
|-
|Handling:
|Below Average
|-
|Durability:
|Very Strong
|-
|Armor Side/Max:
|25/100
|}

The Windsor II is almost identical to the Windsor. Its single key difference is that it weighs 100 less than the Windsor. On the positive side, that means it can move a tiny bit faster, and on the negative side it suffers a tiny little bit more from recoil. It is likely this differences is unnoticeable in normal combat operations. In all other ways it functions the same as the Windsors as a heavy-armor sedan. If there are any other tiny differences, you will likely need to see the code to tell.

The Windsor II's weight, durability, and handling make it a very interesting weapons platform. It can handle a lot of different weapon loads up to about 60 bulk, including the Anti-Tank Gun and the Car Cannon.

== The Sedan Vs. Other Cars ==

The sedan is the quintessential average car. They generally aren't as fast as sports cars, don't hold the engine power of muscle cars, don't have the maneuverability of tiny cars like buggys or subcompacts, don't have the bulk of vans/trucks, and don't have the durability of SUVs.

And that's why they are attractive.

They are smack dab in the middle of the road. Jack of all trades, master of none. Now that's not to say all of them are similar. In fact, not at all. But the general trait they all share vs. the other classes of cars is their general middle of the road factor. Because of this, they do not suffer 100% in any given situation.

== The Sedan Vs. The Sedan ==

The Chevalier is the step between a subcompact and a sedan. It may not have much bulk, but it has a great mix of speed and handling. Even though it only houses a 2L max unexposed, its lower bulk/weight gives it a slight edge. Like the Voyager, you can't really stack weapons onto this thing without sacrificing passenger room.

The Mercenary is the war machine of the sedans. It has good bulk and armor capacity, and it can hold up to a 3.2L engine. However, out of all the sedans, its speed and handling are rather poor in comparison. While the Chevalier is the stepping stone between subcompact and sedan, the Mercenary is the stepping stone between SUV and sedan.

The Moose is a great light-fighter sedan chassis. You can give it a 2.5L engine and two 20 bulk weapons or 1 40 bulk weapon and have room for passengers. While not as fast as the Voyager, and arguably less controllable than the Symphony, it's a well-balanced machine.

The Spirit is the big-bulk sedan. Its speed/acceleration is a problem due to its max capacity engine of 2L, but it has excellent handling. If you're willing to risk an exposed engine, this car could become a rather quick machine. However, since it is lighter than the Mercenary, and can still hold a good amount of armor, this car's primary attribute is its 200 bulk. Since it requires less engine power than the mercenary, you can use more of that for weapons as well.

The two-door Symphony was the first sedan implemented, and the most universally talked down about. Half of this is likely that most people seem to prefer more armored vehicles, and talk down about sedans in general. The other half is that it is as common as dirt. However, many players successfully used them as a main attack car for a long time before the other sedans emerged. Speed-wise it's a little faster than the Spirit in general, but with a little less bulk. Its main problem is that it flips a lot. For some reason, a lot of the older cars have problems with this. Other than that, it's probably the most average of average.

The Voyager is the speed demon of the sedans. Rumored to match muscle-car speeds with a hefty engine placed in it, its armor and bulk are lacking. Unless you're willing to give up passenger room, you can't mount very much without having to downgrade the engine. That said, it functions great as an interceptor-attack car or quick-strike attack car.

The Windsors are well-armored sedans but suffer the opposite problem of the Symphony: they are overrated because of their rarity. Their rarity, and general comparability with other sedans, make them a waste to try to look for. Their armor is their primary attribute, but they have less bulk than a Moose, Spirit, or Mercenary. Their handling is pretty average considering their weight. There is not much difference between the Windsor and Windsor II except that one weighs more, which probably means it's marginally slower but has better stability.

[[Category: Guides]]
[[Category: Vehicles]]

Sedan Analysis

2010-11-12T21:49:55Z

Fifth: /* The Sedan Summary */

Sedan Analysis

2010-11-12T21:47:59Z

Fifth: /* The Sedan Summary */

This Sedan guide examines the pros and cons of each vehicle. This guide will not presume to tell you which car is "best" because there is no best car. It comes down to what you want, and what you like. This guide comes from primarily a combat view, though speed will be discussed in relation to combat.

Because any guide like this is based on personal experience and opinion, there may be things you disagree with.

While this guide won't go into depth on the subject of how sedans compare to various cars, it will throw out some general pros/cons of sedans vs. other cars. In addition, it does not speak to special case sedans like the Squad Car. That one belongs in an "emergency response vehicle" guide due to its special nature and insane rarity.

The following cars will be included in this guide:

* Chevalier
* Mercenary
* Moose
* Spirit
* Symphony
* Voyager
* Windsor
* Windsor II

== The Sedan Summary ==

This list will include more detailed information about the chassis. Most of these stats will be ripped from the official website. In addition, it will mention other relevant stats such as handling. Keep in mind that other than the hard numbers, most of these values are subjective, and for that purpose it does not contain a list of what "Good" or what "Very Good" means. It really is just opinion.

General Sedan Details:
# Sedans always seat 4 people, bulk permitting.
# All sedans have two front weapon mounts, two rear weapon mounts, and one mount on each side.
# Speed differences do depend on the engine put in, the equipment weight, and the armor added. The listed speed is estimated compared to other sedans/vehicles. It generally assumes a healthy amount of B-Grade armor, two weapons or so, and max non-exposed engine.
# Sedans always have a "moderate" cost. Some are more expensive than others, but the difference is never really worth noting. Generally the bigger sedans are more expensive. As a special side note, the Windsors aren't that expensive, but people will sometimes try to charge a huge amount for them simply because they aren't around. It is advised you use a Mercenary instead if you like the Windsor's setup.
# In general, sedans aren't very rare. You can find most of them in Somerset, and almost all of them in Gateway or beyond. The only exception are the Windsor, which is extremely rare.

=== The Chevalier ===

[[File:chevalier.jpg]]
{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
|Weight:
|1450
|-
|Bulk:
|175
|-
|Engine/Exposed:
|2L / 3.2L
|-
|Acceleration:
|Above Average
|-
|Max Speed:
|Very Good
|-
|Handling:
|Very Good
|-
|Durability:
|Strong
|-
|Armor Side/Max:
|21/84
|}

Don't be fooled by the misleading community contribution tag while looking up this chassis. The Chevalier is an agile sedan, arguably the sedan with the best handling along with the Spirit. Its low bulk means it can't carry very many weapons, not that you'd want to weigh it down when its main asset is its maneuverability. Basically if you like subcompacts, and like sedans, you'll like the Chevalier. It also makes a surprisingly good ballistic platform.

Seen as - [[Sir Rocket]], [[Lancer]], and [[Squire]]

Sample Builds:

Brawler - Twin [[Medium Machine Gun|MMGs]] front, max out front armor.
Ballistic - Paint Gun rear, Gatling Gun forward, max out rear armor, and pack in as much Paint ammo as possible.

=== The Mercenary ===

[[File:mercenary.jpg]]
{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
|Weight:
|1650
|-
|Bulk:
|200
|-
|Engine/Exposed:
|3.2L / 3.2L V8
|-
|Acceleration:
|Average
|-
|Max Speed:
|Good
|-
|Handling:
|Below Average
|-
|Durability:
|Strong
|-
|Armor Side/Max:
|23/92
|}

The Mercenary is a tough sedan. While it has as much bulk as the Spirit, the Mercenary requires a heavier engine to move its weight to match speeds, and therefore can't be considered the roomiest sedan. It does allow and extra point of armor point though, and its ability to fit heavier engines, and the 200 bulk still give it plenty of room. This is best considered an "assault sedan", and a good choice if you want to load heavier weapons, and pack on extra armor.

=== The Moose ===

[[File:moose.jpg]]
{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
|Weight:
|1500
|-
|Bulk:
|195
|-
|Engine/Exposed:
|2.5L / 3.2L V8
|-
|Acceleration:
|Good
|-
|Max Speed:
|Very Good
|-
|Handling:
|Above Average
|-
|Durability:
|Strong
|-
|Armor Side/Max:
|22/88
|}

The Moose is an excellent, balanced sedan for combat operations, and is often recommended. It can carry 1 more point of armor than the Symphony, but requires a heavier engine to really get the listed stats. This means less bulk than a Symphony. To keep it speedy, keep the weapon bulk to around 40 or 60 if you don't mind sacrificing a passenger slot.

=== The Spirit ===

[[File:spirit.jpg]]
{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
|Weight:
|1450
|-
|Bulk:
|200
|-
|Engine/Exposed:
|2L / 3.2L
|-
|Acceleration:
|Below Average
|-
|Max Speed:
|Good
|-
|Handling:
|Very Good
|-
|Durability:
|Strong
|-
|Armor Side/Max:
|21/84
|}

The Spirit is the workhorse of the sedans. If you want a sedan bristling with weapons, take the Spirit. It has a large bulk, low weight, and the engine needed to move it is rather small. However, the Spirit's acceleration is rather poor. Thankfully, that is mitigated by its ability to turn on a dime. Be careful though, since the Spirit can't hold as much armor as the Mercenary or Windsor/Windsor II.

The Spirit's bulk can be employed to fit a driver, two gunners, two 40 bulk weapons, and reloads. This makes it a very cheap weapons platform. C-armor will make it even cheaper, and doesn't add all that much weight.

It is important to note that the Spirit does NOT handle well on terrain at all. It is very stable and rarely flips over, but has great difficulty climbing any more than a shallow slope. This you can use to your advantage when fighting AI Spirits.

Seen As: [[Poltergeist]] [[Razorback]]

=== The Symphony ===

[[File:symphony.jpg]]
{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
|Weight:
|1500
|-
|Bulk:
|180
|-
|Engine/Exposed:
|2L / 3.2L
|-
|Acceleration:
|Poor
|-
|Max Speed:
|Average
|-
|Handling:
|Good
|-
|Durability:
|Strong
|-
|Armor Side/Max:
|21/84
|}

A pretty average, balanced car for the average car class, and common enough you can find it anywhere. That doesn't mean it doesn't have its place. The 2L engine can have some trouble hauling its bulk around if you load it down with weapons, but keep it lean and mean, and you can have a good weapon in hand. Famous examples of this car include the Evan Enforcer, a dual front car rifle model that is an excellent sniper. The main disadvantage of this car is its tendancy to flip, like most of the older car models.

=== The Voyager ===

[[File:voyager.jpg]]
{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
|Weight:
|1450
|-
|Bulk:
|180
|-
|Engine/Exposed:
|3.2L V8 / 4L
|-
|Acceleration:
|Very Good
|-
|Max Speed:
|Very Good
|-
|Handling:
|Good
|-
|Durability:
|Strong
|-
|Armor Side/Max:
|20/80
|}

The Voyager is the fastest of the sedans by a notable margin. It can match even some of the muscle cars if kitted out for racing, and the handling is also good. The main disadvantage of the Voyager is its lower armor value. In addition, though it has more bulk than the Chevalier, you won't get much use of it if you plan on putting the 3.2L engine in. With the 2L engine, its speed becomes more comparable to a Symphony or Moose. However, if you want a speedy, interceptor vehicle with more defense and weapon capabilities than a race car or muscle car, consider this fine sedan.

=== The Windsor ===

[[File:windsor.jpg]]
{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
|Weight:
|1700
|-
|Bulk:
|190
|-
|Engine/Exposed:
|3.2L V8 / 4L
|-
|Acceleration:
|Average
|-
|Max Speed:
|Good
|-
|Handling:
|Below Average
|-
|Durability:
|Very Strong
|-
|Armor Side/Max:
|25/100
|}

The Windsor's armor and durability are its greatest assets. However, that means you need a bigger engine to move it. With only 190 bulk, if you throw in a heavy engine, you'll be giving up a lot of passenger and/or weapon room. Given the current rarity of this chassis, despite the fact it is listed as common, you won't see it enough to worry about incorporating it into your army on a regular basis. Use the Mercenary if you need a more available tank-sedan.

=== The Windsor II ===

[[File:windsor II.jpg]]
{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
|Weight:
|1600
|-
|Bulk:
|190
|-
|Engine/Exposed:
|3.2L V8 / 4L
|-
|Acceleration:
|Average
|-
|Max Speed:
|Good
|-
|Handling:
|Below Average
|-
|Durability:
|Very Strong
|-
|Armor Side/Max:
|25/100
|}

The Windsor II is almost identical to the Windsor. Its single key difference is that it weighs 100 less than the Windsor. On the positive side, that means it can move a tiny bit faster, and on the negative side it suffers a tiny little bit more from recoil. It is likely this differences is unnoticeable in normal combat operations. In all other ways it functions the same as the Windsors as a heavy-armor sedan. If there are any other tiny differences, you will likely need to see the code to tell.

The Windsor II's weight, durability, and handling make it a very interesting weapons platform. It can handle a lot of different weapon loads up to about 60 bulk, including the Anti-Tank Gun and the Car Cannon.

== The Sedan Vs. Other Cars ==

The sedan is the quintessential average car. They generally aren't as fast as sports cars, don't hold the engine power of muscle cars, don't have the maneuverability of tiny cars like buggys or subcompacts, don't have the bulk of vans/trucks, and don't have the durability of SUVs.

And that's why they are attractive.

They are smack dab in the middle of the road. Jack of all trades, master of none. Now that's not to say all of them are similar. In fact, not at all. But the general trait they all share vs. the other classes of cars is their general middle of the road factor. Because of this, they do not suffer 100% in any given situation.

== The Sedan Vs. The Sedan ==

The Chevalier is the step between a subcompact and a sedan. It may not have much bulk, but it has a great mix of speed and handling. Even though it only houses a 2L max unexposed, its lower bulk/weight gives it a slight edge. Like the Voyager, you can't really stack weapons onto this thing without sacrificing passenger room.

The Mercenary is the war machine of the sedans. It has good bulk and armor capacity, and it can hold up to a 3.2L engine. However, out of all the sedans, its speed and handling are rather poor in comparison. While the Chevalier is the stepping stone between subcompact and sedan, the Mercenary is the stepping stone between SUV and sedan.

The Moose is a great light-fighter sedan chassis. You can give it a 2.5L engine and two 20 bulk weapons or 1 40 bulk weapon and have room for passengers. While not as fast as the Voyager, and arguably less controllable than the Symphony, it's a well-balanced machine.

The Spirit is the big-bulk sedan. Its speed/acceleration is a problem due to its max capacity engine of 2L, but it has excellent handling. If you're willing to risk an exposed engine, this car could become a rather quick machine. However, since it is lighter than the Mercenary, and can still hold a good amount of armor, this car's primary attribute is its 200 bulk. Since it requires less engine power than the mercenary, you can use more of that for weapons as well.

The two-door Symphony was the first sedan implemented, and the most universally talked down about. Half of this is likely that most people seem to prefer more armored vehicles, and talk down about sedans in general. The other half is that it is as common as dirt. However, many players successfully used them as a main attack car for a long time before the other sedans emerged. Speed-wise it's a little faster than the Spirit in general, but with a little less bulk. Its main problem is that it flips a lot. For some reason, a lot of the older cars have problems with this. Other than that, it's probably the most average of average.

The Voyager is the speed demon of the sedans. Rumored to match muscle-car speeds with a hefty engine placed in it, its armor and bulk are lacking. Unless you're willing to give up passenger room, you can't mount very much without having to downgrade the engine. That said, it functions great as an interceptor-attack car or quick-strike attack car.

The Windsors are well-armored sedans but suffer the opposite problem of the Symphony: they are overrated because of their rarity. Their rarity, and general comparability with other sedans, make them a waste to try to look for. Their armor is their primary attribute, but they have less bulk than a Moose, Spirit, or Mercenary. Their handling is pretty average considering their weight. There is not much difference between the Windsor and Windsor II except that one weighs more, which probably means it's marginally slower but has better stability. This guide would provide more information on them, but as has been mentioned, they are very uncommon vehicles. This may change if more enemy Windsors are added into the game at some point. Currently, none seem to exist.

[[Category: Guides]]
[[Category: Vehicles]]

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2010-11-11T00:33:35Z

Fifth: /* Section 2: Let’s Talk Tactics */

Guides

2010-11-11T00:20:53Z

Fifth: /* Vehicles */

== General ==
*[[Darkwind Quick Guide]]
*[[Coco's Guide to Starting Out]]
*[[Common Abbreviations]]
*[[Darkwind HOW TO Guide]]
*[[Troubleshooting Guide]]

== Vehicles ==
*[[Vehicle Design Guide]]
*[[Sedan Analysis]]
*[[Fifth's Muscle Manual]]

[http://dw.laasma.ee/carbuilder/ Darkwind Carbuilder] a web-based vehicle designer is available, as is a desktop application [http://graymattercomputing.svnrepository.com/dwvehicles/trac.cgi/wiki Darkwind Vehicle Designer]

== Characters ==
*[[Procyon's Guide to Character Management]] --- developing your characters and keeping them alive

== Scouting ==
*[[Encounters]] is another word used to describe all scouts outside town.
*[[Solo Scouting]] - Ultimate Guide to an Early Grave
*[[Initial Scout Guide]]

== Travel/Cargo Hauling ==
*[[4saken's guide to running a lorry]] How to run a 2 Axel Lorry BL<->GW to make money

== Weapons ==
*[[Using Weapons]] --- assigning gunners, targeting, and firing

== Racing & Deathracing ==
*[[Alpha Junkers' Driving Tips]]

[[Category: Guides]]

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2010-11-10T19:28:38Z

Fifth: /* Chassis Appendix */

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2010-11-10T19:25:53Z

Fifth: /* Chassis Appendix */

Mutant Bomber

2010-09-24T16:58:17Z

Fifth:

A pickup with [[Car Grenade Launcher]] and [[Paint Gun]] in front, and a [[Machine Gun]] on each side.

The Bomber is not very dangerous by itself, but it is one of the most dangerous cars to encounter in the wilderness, because its paint will disable weapons. It needs to be killed as quickly as possible.

One good tactic to kill a Bomber is to put one or two muscle cars around its consorts to clip it off. Come in fast and hit its weak sides. Because the Bomber only has 2 crew, it has to pull one person off either its [[Car Grenade Launcher]] or its [[Paint Gun]] in order to man a [[Machine Gun]] to protect itself. Get inside 40 meters or so and its artillery won't be able to hit you, and it's an easy target.

Da Vinci

2010-09-24T04:00:04Z

Fifth: Wrote tactical summary.

The Da Vinci, alone and unsupported, is one of the easier NPC models to kill, as its only direct fire weapon is its front mount MG.

Therefore, it's cruelly ironic that the Da Vinci is one of the most dangerous models to encounter when it's backing up a squad of enemies with its Paint Gun.

A Da Vinci unchecked can spell defeat for a squad of players. The Paint Gun effectively disable the target's weapons for several turns, and this is why the Da Vinci so very dangerous.

On the other hand, it's slow and handles poorly over difficult terrain, and it tends to lag behind its consorts quite a bit, especially once the shots start flying. It's a great target for a muscle car or two to get around the heavies and rip the Da Vinci open. Even inducing a Da Vinci to turn away from your allies can make a huge difference, and once you're inside 40 meters, the Paint Gun accuracy goes down sharply. Don't get too close to its flanks or the Paint Sprays will gum up your weapons, but otherwise, it's a fat and easy target.

Mutant Bomber

2010-09-12T19:21:48Z

Fifth: Created page with 'A pickup with Car Grenade Launcher and Paint Gun in front, and a Machine Gun on each side. The Bomber is not very dangerous by itself, but it is one of the most dangerous cars t…'

A pickup with Car Grenade Launcher and Paint Gun in front, and a Machine Gun on each side.

The Bomber is not very dangerous by itself, but it is one of the most dangerous cars to encounter in the wilderness, because its paint will disable weapons. It needs to be killed as quickly as possible.

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2010-09-12T19:20:03Z

Fifth: /* Strategy and Combat Roles */