Editing Coco's Guide to Starting Out (section)

=== Armor ===
====Armor Grade====

'''A''' armor weighs half of what '''B''' armor weights but costs four times as much
'''B''' armor is the normal armor in terms of weight and cost.
'''C''' armor weighs twice as much as '''B''' armor and costs half as much

It really comes down to a choice between '''B''' and '''C''' grade as '''A''' is much too expensive for anything but racing type events. '''C''' armoured cars will be slightly slower and if you're going with a smaller engine, too much '''C''' armor isn't a very good idea. '''If you cannot afford to buy the B Class Armour you are not ready'''.  The place you'll really appreciate having a lighter and faster car will be when [[Solo Scouting#tactics|running away]] from encounters you realize you can't win.

You can't get refunds on your armor so switching the armour type later will be an expensive and time-consuming process. I'd recommend dishing out the extra cash for '''B''' armor for your first car and '''C''' on your second to see which works out better for you.

==== Armor Facings ====
You should put 100% of the maximum [[armor]] points that the chassis can take. '''If you cannot afford to buy a fully armoured car you are not ready.'''

To start with you can evenly distribute the armour on your front and sides with 5 to 7 points on top and bottom. As you play you will redistribute the armour to fit your style. Slow tanks (with '''C''' armour) tend to have more on the sides e.g. Front 23% Rear 23% Left 23% Right 23% Top 4% Bottom 4%. Fast, dogfighters have maximum on front e.g. Front 25% Rear 19% Left 23% Right 23% Top 5% Bottom 5% . The best feedback is the bullet-ridden absence of armour as you roll back into town. Look at the holes left by the last encounter and adapt your armour to deal with it - some people take more hits to their sides, while others take all their hits to the front